bucketmouth8

Use cardboard and make a template. That is the easiest way to do it. Here is mine.

The plywood is 5/8". The framing for the rear bench is 2x4 and the deck in the bow is 5/8" plywood with 2x2" framing.

Here is a pic of the underside of the rear bench. In all the bench weighs about 30 pounds.

Another view from the front.

Here is a pic of the rear bench being used in the center of the boat. I fished all day today this way and it worked out great with just me in the boat.

I like your boat. How did you secure your oar to the front of your rear bench? I have been looking for some kind of snap clip to hold mine but no such luck so far. Just wondering.

I did not put a hole in the rear bench for the seat mount. Instead of using the aluminum tubing on the rear, I used 2x4's to make the frame and then added another 1x4 to build it up. The rear deck is not screwed down and I made it to actually fit across the center side benches of the boat as well. I did this so if I am fishing by myself, I can sit in the center of the boat and pull the seat out of the bow to stand up there. That bench is extremely stable and will not tip. The decks actually straddle the aluminum boat bench supports to keep it from sliding front or back. When traveling across the lake using the Johnson outboard, the pedestals for the seats are removed and the seats put into the bases in the floor to lower my center of gravity. I'll post some pics of the underside of the rear bench soon but now I have the boat under a tarp.

The front deck is removable and no holes were drilled in the bench. The plywood has 2x2" boards screwed to the bottom of the plywood for stability and the deck is supported by the bench at the rear of it and a u-bolt that comes thru the front of the boat that the winch strap clips to. At first I did not think that this would be enough but there is no place for the deck to go down because the bow of the boat is wedge shaped anyway. I weigh about 250 lbs and have stood up in the bow with no problems but most of my time will be in the seat which is bolted down right over the bench.

This build has been alot of fun to do and put on this site. I still want to get a sonar unit and onboard charger.

The rear bench also fits over the center benches.

Here is an updated pic with the outboard motor on and back deck done.

Thanks for the pic. That is what I am looking to make but I have to figure out how to mount the pvc pipe to my benches. I have seen those for sale at Cabelas like yours but I want to try to make my own.

I am wanting to make some rod holders for my aluminum v-hull out of pvc pipe. I'm looking for some ideas on how others have done it. Please post a pic if you have it along with a brief description of how you made them. Not pole holder to use while fishing but rod holders to stow rods/reels vertically.

The foam is high density and is advertised as non absorbant so it better not hold much water. The stern of the boat is open so I can see how much water is in the boat. I do have a new bilge pump but I am not sure if I will put it in or not. The deck in my bow will not go anywhere because the floor is cut out around the side braces of the front bench. The center floor is held in place by the benches on both ends of it.

I used the 2" foam insulation under the center floor to level it before I put my plywood on it. It took alot of trial and error as far as fitting goes but I finally got it. The best part is that all the flooring/decking is removable. I wish I had put a storage door in the front deck up in the bow but I guess now I know next time. I'm still working on a pedestal mount for the back. I've had the boat on the water one time so far and even with the added weight, that new Minn Kota pulls the boat around great. Even in a strong wind.

I am going to put it on the water tomorrow and check the stability. The ice here in central Nebraska has finally melted off the interstate lakes. I have a 15 horse Johnson tiller to put on yet and I am going to buy a Humminbird 565 sonar along with another battery for my transom trolling motor. I'll post more pics when I get them.

Another view of the trolling motor wiring.

Here is a view from the back. I still need to get my rear pedestal seat installed. I just have not decided if I am going to deck the back or not.

I still need to get a battery box to get this all cleaned up.

I finally got the wiring for the trolling motor done today. What a pain that was to run down the parts for that. I bought 3/4" conduit at the lumber store to run the wires thru and had to go to a Stereo/Electronics store to get a 8 ga. fusible link and 50 amp fuse. I checked everywhere else in town including the auto parts stores looking for a fusible link and the biggest I could get was 10 guage that would hold a 30 amp fuse. I also needed about 20 feet of 8 guage wire to run from the battery in the back of the boat to the trolling motor plug. The stereo/electronics store had 8 guage wire for $1 per foot. I was not going to pay that so when I was a walmart I seen a set of auto jumper cables for $14. They were 12 feet long, (12 positive and 12 negative) which is more than I need, and were made of 8 guage wire. Perfect. Then I needed butt connectors to connect the 8 guage wire to my trolling motor plug. I had to go to a generator/well supply shop to get those. The biggest butt connectors I could find anywhere else were for 10 guage wire. After running all over town trying to get all the stuff I needed I got it all done.

Next is wiring and building a battery box under the floor of the bow.

Another look at the motor with the quick release bracket installed. This was a must have.

Here is the Minn Kota quick release trolling motor bracket I got from Cabelas for $40.

I also used 1x2" wood treated with Thompson's Water Seal to strengthen the floor.

I supported the floor with 2" foam insualtion doubled up down the center of the boat.