A couple of months ago I joined this forum so I could ask a question about a trolling motor I just bought for my boat. I told you then I was doing a total overhaul of the boat's interior and I'd post pics of it when finished. Well it's not finished but it's 98% finished so here's what I have so far if you'd like to see them.
This is one of the only pics I could find of the boat showing the original color of the carpet. It was red with grey vinyl floors. The carpet was in really bad shape, sun bleached and torn, just badly weathered. The previous owner didn't take care of it very well. So it had to be redone. You can see that the top of the dash has the carpet completely gone exposing the wood.
Here's the boat stripped down to a raw mess (I actually already glued carpet to the walls on both sides but forgot to take pics prior to that, sorry)
Here's the mess of wiring I had to go through and fix the connections on
One Saturday I cut out some of my plywood that I needed to replace in this boat, and then that night I carpeted it out. Here are the pics of how I carpeted it. This is the front deck ready to be wrapped in the carpet I already cut for it (it's under it in that picture). I used regular plywood for this, wanted treated but couldn't find a piece nice enough to make a deck with, it was all too rough. I'm super coating this in the carpet glue though which really helps to waterproof it, and gonna also use rubberized undercoating on the bottom side to seal that up with so it should last a long time before rotting out again. I keep the boat covered up when not in use anyway. I used treated lumber to make the thinner panels from, just non-treated for the deck and dash where 3/4 ply was necessary.
One thing I did to make it easier to carpet these panels was to lay the piece of wood center of the carpet, making sure it's lined up right cause I'm using carpet that has lines in it and they have to run parallel to the edges of the panels, I don't want crooked looking lines when I'm done. I then started stapling the carpet along the edge, starting in the center and working towards each end. I used stainless steel staples so they won't rust. Expensive but worth it.
Then when one side was stapled down good, I used carpet glue to thickly coat the carpet, also coating the edge of the wood as well and also on the underside between the carpet and the wood where I already stapled. Once that's done I flipped the board over onto the coated surface and then pressed it all down, and then pulled the other side up and stapled it into place. I used an incredible amount of staples in this, more than it needed but I want no puckers in the material or any material coming loose later on. I put them less than 1/4 inch apart most places all the way along all edges.
Not bad for the first day cutting and carpeting.
I have a real understanding wife, she knows how much I love boating and fishing. Her house was tore upside down with my boat stuff in several rooms while this was going on (I don't have a garage), and by several I mean more than two at a time. Bedroom, old pool room, living room, even the kitchen sometimes.
This boat is about 98% finished now, just lacking the trolling motor install and the vinyl for the deck beneath it and finishing mounting the depth finder's transducer on the rear.
I regret that I wasn't able to get pics of every small step of this build. So some of the pics you'll see will show a lot of steps already completed. I had to use what time I had available each day and by time I stopped working each day it was dark so I didn't take pics.
This is the live well and it's overflow tubing that goes thru to outside of the hull. I sealed them inside and out with silicone and then used clamps to make sure they don't come loose.
This is where the front deck will be. I installed two pressure treated 2x4's along the sides of where the storage deck lid will rest so that it does not bow under my massive 285 lbs. The factory only had the front and rear edges supported but I felt it would be stronger if supported on all 4 sides. I also added extra aluminum rivets in the aluminum cross members that support this deck. Look and you'll see them.
Here is the deck laying upside down so I can seal the under side of it to protect it from moisture.
I used this to seal it with. One of it's recommended uses was for trees where a limb had been removed so to prevent rot from starting. I figured if it will do that then it will work for me here.
The starter wires for my outboard motor were in horrible shape. Time for some new ones.
My dad got me some super soft 6 gauge wire that's all weather rated and we soldered copper lugs onto the end. If you look close you can see the solder bubbled out the top, it's completely filled. Then we used shrink tubing to protect and seal that connection. We did this for ALL wiring in the boat. Here's the pics of the wiring AFTER I repaired and rerouted it all. Remember that huge mess I had laying back in the corner?? This is it now.
For the wiring that ran to the outboard I ran it through split loom tubing to protect it further from sun damage. It goes all the way into the motor head this way. That pic of the motor also shows the brand new fuel line I put in for it.
That was my motor above, an 89 model Johnson 88 SPL (special), 88 horse power, 2 stroke, 4 cylinder outboard. It has a stainless steel prop and after market tilt and trim added. I was told these motors did not come with this stuff so the previous owner must have really like it to add this on, it would not have been cheap.
Last year my dad fabricated a transom saver for this motor. I have had 2 different ones that I bought and the motor was still free to rotate left and right when being trailered down the road. It would eat up the rubber padding and then be metal to metal on the lower unit. I couldn't have that so we built one that would cradle the motor solidly in thick rubber supports and hold it still from rotating. Because of it's design it does not need straps to hold it up on the motor, it could not possibly fall off, but I use 2 straps anyway. I know they are in need of replacement now though cause of weathering.
This is the new trolling motor I have for the front of the boat. It's a Minn Kota Power Drive 55 pound thrust motor. Electronic steering and battery life maximizer circuitry. Awesome motor. Because of this I had to upgrade the factory motor wire from 10 gauge to 6 gauge. I bought a spare prop for it also, it was on clearance so why not have an extra one?? This might just save a fishing trip sometime when I accidentally break a blade.
I got a 50 amp automatic reset breaker for running it. Better than a fuse.
For this motor I wanted a very dependable electrical circuit. I got a deal on 6 gauge wire at Lowe's but it's the kind of wire you run to a range in the house, really stiff stuff. To use it I made my own design and incorporated some of that super soft 6 gauge left over from the outboard rewire. I used a plastic conduit box to run the stiff 6 gauge into, then drilled holes the size of the soft 6 gauge in the opposite end and ran two pieces of that inside the box and spliced using waterproof wirenuts (expensive, $7.00 for 6 of them). Then I mounted this under the rear deck area and covered it with a waterproof sealed lid. Now my battery can be connected easily using the soft wire, and it cannot be cross wired due to the size of the lugs on the ends. They only fit one way on the battery. No need to mark pos or neg on these.
This clamp I put in to hold the stiff wire was really hard to get to to install it.
The front deck connection to the trolling motor receptacle using more of those waterproof wirenuts.