The Rooster

I'm going against the grain from what most have said here. Bass Pro Shops Extreme, you can get 2 of them for that price (mostly anyway). On sale now from Bass Pro for $65 each plus shipping, but if you get lucky like I have seen here where I live, you can find them in local tackle shops for $60 each plus tax. These are excellent reels and I'm sure some will disagree with this but I'd put mine up against the Citica D or E any day. My brother in law fishes Curado D's and I've yet to see him do anything with his reels that mine won't do. I'm up to 3 of them now and possibly a 4th one could be coming.

I learned to fish holding ALL rods in my left hand. My buddy who got me into going fishing was left handed and I borrowed one of his spinning rods for a few trips until I got my own finally. By then I was used to using it the way he had it set up so I always reverse the cranks on all my spinning reels to be on the right side now so I reel right and cast left. I can cast either way and reel either way but it feels WAY more natural to hold and cast left while reeling right. Then when I got a baitcaster for Christmas that year, as most will guess, ALL Walmart had was right handed retrieve reels, that was in the days before it was common to see left handed retrieve reels available. They only had reels with the crank on the right, and I was used to that anyway so I got that. I can also cast with either hand on a baitcaster, but for that particular reel, it feels better to cast right and then switch hands to hold it left while reeling right. I guess I'm all mixed up on what's normal for me fishing. I hear that most people will reel right handed with a baitcaster, and also cast right handed and then switch so in that part I guess I'm normal, or at least with the majority crowd (normal for me is questionable). But for spinning rods, I'm the reverse of most people since I reel on the right. Most that I see reel with the left on a spinning rod.

What if the left cheek itches?? Can you reach it from the right?? ;D I only want to engage as soon as a buzzbait hits water to keep it from sinking and making me use up 10 feet of my cast to get it back to the top again.

I've used a few zip ties to repair my old skirts on the lure as the collar deteriorated away. It was easy to do, just pull it semi-tight around the skirt while it's on the bait and then snip off the old collar, slide the tie down in place exactly where the old collar used to be and then finish pulling it tight and clip off the excess tie. That might work and save me a hassle of spreading the collars out to make new ones.

Been meaning to get some KVD too. Man this site is great to keep you informed on the stuff to have. Wish I'd found it years ago.

What I thought was funny was that they had something in there that costs that much and the display for it suggests that it's not a good reel so they likely won't sell many that way. Unless of course their aim was to use it to push other reels that cost less so people are more likely to make a spot on purchase after seeing that. They might be doing more volume in lower priced reels than they are individual sales of the high dollar one. Sort of a, "hey this is better and costs way less so you can afford it now instead of waiting" thing. Or it could just be that the guy working there is a dumb@#% and just wanted to show off something he knew for some reason. He's not the shop owner, only a worker there. I did immediately figure that something must be wrong with it anyway, especially since it was a display that's probably been handled a few dozen times and maybe even dropped a time or two. Also being that I sold reels in the past for Walmart I've seen a few bad ones come out of the case myself and know that that occasionally happens with all manufacturers. It's no reflection on the particular reel model itself. I just thought I'd share that story in a Shimano Core thread since it did happen to me and involved the Core reel. Personally I think the Cores are sweet and if I had the money for 3 or 4 of them then I might be using them instead. Since I don't, the Extreme was the best value for me and they are good reels too.

And I also have to say that I read fluorocarbon doesn't stretch as much but as far as I could tell it stretches nearly the same as my Trilene XL in the same pound test line. Thanks to all for the information on copolymers. That's probably the next line I'll try since it has more abrasion resistance and lower stretch, and also somewhat more sensitivity but will still be similar to mono in action. Micro suggested some Yo-zuri Hybrid in another thread so that's probably the one I'll go for.

I might try that but I'll have to do it while still thumbing the spool which might prove to be a chore.

Do they tend to float like mono does or sink like fluorocarbon?? Are they clear in water like fluorocarbon is or do they come in different colors like monos do??

That's a good looking spinner. Care to share how you twisted the wire around, where you got your components to make them and all??

I'm interested in making some skirts in specific colors but I don't know how to thread the material up inside the collars. I see you can buy collars and silicone materials, and I've even considered buying several skirts already made to get the colors I want and then disassemble them to recreate the combinations I want. Is there a special tool made for spreading that collar to insert the strands of silicone??

Ok, as I know it there's monofilament, fluorocarbon, copolymer, and braid.......4 different types of line........or are there even more?? Anyway, I've ONLY used mono line until just recently. Mostly the Berkley Trilene XL or the Stren original. 6 to 12 pound sizes and all in between. I'm well used to how they work. Recently I got some fluorocarbon line and have had the opportunity to cast it for a couple of small trips. Not caught any fish on it yet but I can tell it's more sensitive than the mono I'm used to using and it also sinks compared to mono trying to float. I'm using the Berkley Transitions in the 12 and 14 pound sizes. So far I like it but really don't have any experience with it enough to know exactly what to expect. I've never used braid but I've read that braid is super strong for smaller diameters and it also cuts through weeds and slop better than most, and that it also has a tendency to float like mono does. Any other advantages or disadvantages?? Copolymer is the one I don't understand at all. What's the purpose of blending two kinds of materials to make it, and what materials are they?? Is it stronger than mono, smaller diameters?? Clear like fluorocarbon?? What?? Thanks for any replies in advance.

Interesting that you ask about the Core. Recently, just a few days ago actually, I was at a tackle store locally here and happened to notice that they have Bass Pro Shops Extreme reels for sale in the case. I was stunned since I didn't know they could get those and their price was the same as the BPS price when the reel is on sale. I asked to see it just for the heck of it since I already own 3 anyway. The guy gets it out and he apparently likes them too cause he said "wait just a minute, take a look at this". He gets out a Shimano Core reel and shows me how when he gives it a spin it makes a lot of noise and then he gives the Extreme a spin and it's totally silent. He was showing me how a $350 reel compares to a $60 reel and how for that much more money you would have thought it would be totally silent like the cheap reel is but the one he has on display is not at all silent. That's probably NOT the normal thing for the Core reel though. They look sweet. I just saw a post about the Core and thought I'd share this story, especially since I'm an Extreme guy. If I could afford the Core though then it might be a different story. $350 is a bit much for only a reel. That's all now, carry on. Sorry to interrupt.

Well let me ask you guys a question. After you make your cast do you continue to grip the rod in the casting position or do you move your hand up to grip the reel by palming it?? Seems to me if you make the move then it's as much work as if you just switched hands. I cast right handed and then switch to palm the reel with my left while retrieving right handed. If I was to get a left hand retrieve reel so I don't have to switch then I just have to keep the rod held in the casting position after the cast, or go to the trouble to move my right hand up over the reel. Not trying to be difficult so don't think that. I'm just curious of how much of an advantage it really is to get a left handed retrieve reel. Occasionally I'll even cast mine left handed so I don't have to switch back. I only do this so I can instantly engage the spool after my buzzbait splashes down before it has time to sink much. And when I do I have to keep my hand in the casting position to make it work right.

Man I'm gettin' some good info.......THANKS!!!

You guys are starting to make me regret my choice of MH with fast tip. Maybe I should have gotten XF for tip action. I got the slower one cause I thought it would help me load the rod a little more to make throwing the lighter baits easier. 3/8 sizes anyway. I was even hoping to get to throw a 1/4 occassionally?? Hmmm.....something to think about now, especially since I want one more rod and haven't yet decided on the power and action for sure.

By the way I wouldn't fish with those two rods up top there cause they're pink, but they look aweome anyway. Some female is gonna be well pleased to get those. ;D

I like the looks of the new Curado, but mostly because it reminds me of my BPS Extremes!!! I love the green colors but matching a rod to them is the hardest thing I ever tried to do so I finally just gave up and went for a rod that I know will perform, the Compre. Doesn't match it at all really but it's not ugly either. That's always been a hangup for me, call me a girl if you want to but I think the rods and reels should match whenever possible and it sometimes prevents me from buying one or the other cause of that.

Well, I'm no expert at all so I'm just replying for fun. I just got a 6'6" Shimano Compre MH with fast tip that I plan to use for spinnerbaits of 3/8 and 1/2 oz. sizes. I read that a nice stiff rod is desirable to fish these baits on so I think it should do nicely. For 1/4 oz. sizes, I am going to get the same rod again but in a medium instead of MH. Always before this I just used a medium rod for 1/4 and 3/8 baits, and rarely fished 1/2 oz. sizes at all. Never had a problem really, but I want to step up my bass fishing this coming year and start using some heavier baits to get down deeper, sort of break out of the way I am used to fishing and target some larger fish (hopefully). So my reply has probably not helped you at all, sorry for that, but at least I'm participating.

Thank you for that reply, it's informative......as always when I read your replies anyway, you seem to have a knack for this advice giving. You like the Yo-zuri Hybrid huh. I might try some of that then. I don't fish a lot of slop since my lakes just don't have such stuff that I've seen. Some grasses and weeds though. I read that braid helps cut through some of the stuff when a bass buries up in it and thought that might be useful, but I also read that sometimes braid snags up instead. What are your thoughts on that if you don't mind??

OK, I have a few questions. First, I'm guessing that a frog rod does NOT need to be especially sensitive so could I get by going fairly cheap on the rod like say $30 or $40 for one, compared to the $100 I'm paying for the Shimano Compre's I like for more sensitive stuff like T-rigs?? I may end up with a 6'6" or 6'10" Compre anyway though, it's a medium heavy with extra fast tip and "seemed" like it might make a good frog rod when I looked at it. They're pretty stiff feeling. Second, some say braid, some say copolymer, some say mono. Will braid work for every type of frog fishing, open water or heavy cover?? Will copolymer line do that also?? I'm likely not to use mono in the long run since I've seen that most here use the other types over it instead, but since I already have some on right now then I may try it to see how it is anyway. Third, are there any other type of baits that a heavy stiff frog rod will work to throw, or is it mostly just a frog rod?? I like my rods to do double duty when I can so I don't have to go out with a dozen combos all over my front deck.

I have yet to discover any lilypads on my lakes. It's almost all just weeds or nothing at all for vegetation. A frog rod might not even be needed where I fish.

I started to buy a frog lure at the store yesterday and changed my mind about it. Seems I've read here that you need a heavy rod with heavy line to do it right. Can I just use the medium heavy Shimano Compre rod I have with 14 pound fluorocarbon line on it??

From what I understand about this, the line would be overly stressed and might break before the rod reached it's proper bend radius when fighting a fish. You might never have a problem though depending on how large the fish are you are catching. Anybody's guess, and mine isn't worth too much.

Hooked a white duck while fishing in a pond. Casted a nightcrawler and it got too near the duck and it came charging after it so he got hooked right in the tongue. I had to reel him in, hold him by the neck and cut the hook off to pull it out before letting him go again. He put up quite a fight until I got hold of his neck and then he was quiet as a mouse and fought no more. He was glad to get loose when I was done with him though. Otherwise, I've caught a rock once in the same manner as others have said, had a small hole in the side and my hook hit it just right. I reeled in a log once. Was several feet long, hooked it solid but it was giving fairly easily so I pulled on it until it came into view and saw what it was. I was disappointed, I thought I might have had a monster fish on that was too big to swim fast. And of course, I've caught clothes before. Shirts, socks, shoes, swimsuits, panties......I don't think I've caught any pants yet though. ;D