The Rooster

If you mean it might slow you down due to being unable to retrieve with the longer handle as fast as with the shorter handle due to needing to make wider movements with the wrist and hand then I agree with that. For example, it would seemingly make a 7.1:1 reel behave more like a 6.x:1 reel since you can't crank line in quite as fast. But the ratio is still the same as before, and it's a measure of how many times the spool rotates compared to one turn of the handle. 7.1:1 means just a bit more than 7 rotations per one turn of the crank, and that will never change unless you change the gears inside. Going back to the original thought I had on this, inches per turn should not increase one bit due to increasing the handle length. Spool still rotates 7.1 times and takes in the same amount of line for those rotations as it did prior to the handle swap. Only way it would take in more or less is if the spool had more or less line wound onto it at some point, the lower it gets the less line it takes in, and vica versa, per handle turn. Now it is possible to notice an increase in line taken in if the test performed is not exactly accurate. You would need to mark precisely each time the starting and ending point of the one turn crank in order to make sure the spool does not over-rotate in the least. Since the spool does turn a considerable distance for even a partial turn of the crank then I can see that if the crank were turned even as little as 1/2 inch passed the starting point (making the crank turn say 1.1 times instead of a solid 1), then the spool might take in an extra 3 inches of line for that extra distance the crank turned. The effect would be grossly misleading in conclusion. You might measure 3 extra inches of line taken in and think it increased by simply adding distance to the crank handle. The longer the handle is on a reel, the easier it would be to make such a mistake in testing it since you obviously do get more leverage with the longer handle. It would be really easy to "over crank" it on the test retrieve. Make sure you are not doing this when testing the IPT of the line intake. Let me also say I'm sorry if I'm coming across wrong. I'm not trying to start an arguement (and as such I won't make anymore comments on this so you know I mean it). I think it's hard sometimes to convey meaning in just text words on a screen. What might sound like I'm being sharp tongued here is really meant just to explain the science behind my thinking. Sorry if I offend anyone with my typing. Not my intention. I was simply talking in physics and mechanics and explaining what I know about it, that's all. Tight lines!!

Not trying to be difficult but how does changing the length of the handle change the ratio at all?? The spool will still only rotate 7.1 times for every one turn of the handle regardless of length. That's a function of gearing alone.

First I'm really glad to hear you say that about the Clarus and shakeyheads. I had planned to get a Clarus spinning rod since I can't seem to find a rod that has a handle that suites how picky I am. Even the Compre spinning rod does not fit the bill here, I hate the cutout on the foregrip. Clarus doesn't have this so I was going to get one of those in the 6'6" length to do for this. Also I agree with your theory about the "bottom" rods. This is most of the reason I was going to get the Clarus rod from him. Currently I'm using a Compre 6'6" MH/F as a spinnerbait rod with a 6.4:1 reel on it. And then I also got a matching 7.1:1 reel to put on another 6'6" MH/F Compre to use for jigs and worms. Basically I was going to have 2 of the same rod with just different ratio reels on them but never got the rod I needed for the 7.1:1 reel. Since money got tight and I can't really swing another Compre anytime soon then I thought I'd put the 7.1:1 reel on the Compre I already have here and then use the Clarus to replace it with the 6.4:1 for spinnerbaits. That way the more sensitive Compre rod is used for "bottom" lures with the 7.1:1 reel for fast retrieves, and the less sensitive Clarus rod will be used for spinnerbaits and is still sensitive enough to do the job without making me feel like I sacrificed anything. Overall, the only setback will be whatever weight difference there is with the Clarus, and the handle is slightly different too I think, seems the Compre handle is more ergonomically shaped and angled where the Clarus is fat and round and straight as a board. But for this year, I won't complain about that. Maybe I'll upgrade rods near the end of the year and get the Compre I wanted as a Christmas gift, then either sell the Clarus again (probably for what I'll have in it) or get another reel for it and make it a lightweight frog rod or something. Something where it's stiffness and heaviness will be a plus and weight won't matter since I won't be throwing it that much.

I looked at some of them and they seem to be very nice reels. Of course there are better but if you get them at a deal like $40 as the last guy did then you really got a bargain. At $75 they're still OK. Only $99 when new and retail priced originally though.

Fat-G, what happened to the handle on that Citica reel?? Looks slightly bent on one end.

Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano,Shimano SHIMANO ;D Also: Bass Pro Shops Cabela's Daiwa No real problems with Quantum rods though I don't care for their reels And Shakespeare Ugly Stiks of all types....yes these have their place, it's not for finesse bass fishing, I really don't care for them bass fishing at all, but for catfishing, carp, stripers, whitebass and hybrids, and even salt water species, these are just tough and hold up well. Outside of these, never used any other brands.

I'm not sure how many years they have been around. I know they have been for the last several years though. Used to be priced at $59.99 for 6'6" or shorter rods, but last year that went up to $69.99 for 6'6" or shorter sizes. 7' are another $10 over this. I am more than satisfied giving $40 for the rod if he will sell it for that. Actually I can't wait to ask him cause I know he will. He went to using all Compre rods like me but all in 7' foot lengths. I am using 6'6" and even though I really want another Compre I'll settle for the Clarus for now considering what I am doing with it, I know it will be great for this. Sensitivity might not be as much, and I expect the rod to be heavier than the Compre too. Seems I remember from the store that the Clarus weighs more in hand, but that's OK, I won't throw it all that much and it will allow me to put that reel to use for a low price this year. If it is the older version, I may offer $35 instead. Little over 1/2 the original price but considering the lifetime warranty comes with it, that's OK too.

Sorry for confusion. The reel I have is a year old (I bought it last spring) but is still new in the box (I never used it since I have no rod for it). The Clarus rod is used. I want to get that used rod and put my new reel on it. Also to buy the rod now it's $69.99 I'm not sure if his is the updated version which is now $69.99 or the older one that had chrome lettering on the shaft and sold for $59.99. Either way, $40 with a lifetime warranty is not a lot and is far less than the $100 the rod I REALLY want will cost in the meantime. I don't want to cheat him and don't want to cheat me either. To me $40 seems fair, just wondered what others thought.

My brother-in-law has a 6'6" MH/F, 1 piece Shimano Clarus baitcast rod that he does not use. I think I can get him to sell it to me but I want to know what it would be worth before I buy it. It's in good to great condition, no damage, not even scratches, just used somewhat and put away in favor of other rods was all. I was thinking of offering him $40 for it. Is this fair?? I really wanted a Compre like the others I have but money is tight and I have a reel that really needs a rod for this coming season. It's already a year old and still new in the box. I'd like to grab this Clarus and use if for spinnerbaits, maybe occasionally a worm or jig. Primarily it would be a spinnerbait rod. The rod has a weight rating of 1/4 to 3/4, which won't fully cover all my spinnerbait needs but it will do nearly all of them. I thought it would be a good alternative and let me use the reel, also provide an extra combo so I don't have to cut and retie so often when I want to use a different bait. Or would you hold out and get the Compre?? That's likely to be a while coming, but I can swing $40 fairly quickly.

Jigs. I bought a bunch of them last year but circumstances beyond my control limited my fishing SEVERELY last year so when I did go I just used what I was comfortable with instead of trying to learn anything new. The jigs just laid in the box dry for most of the year. I've actually been trying to learn to pitch and flip at home in the back yard so I will be more ready for this when the time comes this year. Next will be the shakey head. I have not given this lure a chance yet cause I felt I did not have the right gear to fish it properly. Now that's changing so I will give them some attention. I'm not much on swimbaits but some of the smaller ones look interesting. I got a couple of the magic swimmers in the smallest size I'll give a shot. Those big ones don't do anything for me though. If it weighs more than an ounce I don't have much use for it. I don't even own a rod that will handle more than that. And any of those soft plastic ones with the big flubbery tails don't appeal to me at all.

Baitcasters = Bass Pro Shops Spinning = ???????? (got my eye on some good Daiwa's and Abu Garcia's, we'll see)

For this particular rod, he's talking about a casting rod, not spinning. The first guide being larger than needed can't be explained easily there unless the rod is meant for larger diameter lines such as heavy mono or something. I'm only guessing, I don't know why they would do that for a casting rod. Someone mentioned Compre. I'd have to say I agreeeeeee. Crankbait2010 knows why. However you'll never be sorry you bought a Crucial either. Whichever one you get you'll be happy. I'd love to own some of both but Compre's are more affordable to me so I get those.

That's one of my only complaints about Pflueger's spinning reels. It makes it difficult to order them online because I'm never sure how big they really are. :-/ :-? Every 30 size I've seen in any model has been the same size so far. Trion, President, President XT, Maxx, and Maxx Pro. I have not looked at a Supreme though. Might be different. I don't know.

I have not personally held the Vendetta rod or the Rick Clunn but I have held the Crucial. For that much LESS money as what each other one costs I cannot even see those other two being in the same league with the Crucial based on price alone. The lifetime warranty is another big thing to consider.

I'd be more impressed if you knew these things swam passed your bait and you said you "felt" it rather than just reeling in proof and finding out then. I can do that with an Ugly Stik too. Did you mean to say you felt something and then after that found proof that it actually happened??

BPS Extreme's have a 6 disc drag system. Do the Revo's?? If not then they might not work right for the fit or you might need more than one set to get enough of them all.

Or just post it cause I wanna know too.

I noticed most all of BPS's current line of rods have Pacific Bay guides now instead of Fuji like before. Are these a downgrade?? Never heard of Pacific Bay before. The mid level BPS rods have the same guides as the much cheaper rods do. Pacific Bay Hialoy guides from the Extreme rod for $100 down to the Graphite Series for $35.

Has only an 8 pound drag too, where the Pro Qualifier has a 10 pound drag.

With the addition of the 4.7:1 ratio on the Pro Qualifier's side, it now covers a speed the Extreme does not. Could be useful for deep cranking and slowrolling spinnerbaits. I think both reels are excellent choices, I personally have 4 Extreme reels (one still in the box) cause I thought they were that good. But mine are the older ones before the magnetic only braking. I have the ITB braking in mine. I got 2 of the 6.4:1 ratios for general use of different baits, a 5.4:1 ratio for cranking, and a 7.1:1 ratio for jigging and worming. If I were to get new reels today I'd get the Pro Qualifier just cause it has the dual braking and it's a sharp looking reel! But for a budget, the current version of the Extreme is a good one. That's as low in the BPS line as I'd go though. Any lower and you give up the aluminum frame.

I read to use the Eugene knot and I did this all last year and never had a knot failure at all. Was very impressed with how well it tied tightly without slipping.

That ain't no deal dude, that's a crime (receiving stolen property). ;D Seriously, where did you get a deal like that?? That's awesome!!

I noticed the lures were a bit less this year. Rapala section normally would have more pages, this year it's much less. No Husky Jerks listed at all, or subwalks and skitterpops. Did notice the new Flat Rap though.

Browning is now a BPS brand. Basspro.com is Browning's "official" website. Not to mention this year for 2010 they have all been overhauled to be on the same frame design as the Extreme and other reels by BPS. That said though, I think they are quality made, although I personally have not fished one, only looked at close up in the store. Myself, I went with the Extreme and bought 5 of them. Couldn't be happier (unless they were Pro Qualifiers instead ;D).

Some of the repair issues are why I shop in the $100 range and don't really get into Curado prices with reels. Small parts break sometimes. Not every single part on a costly reel is made from higher grade materials. Sure some things like the bearings are, even gearing too, but some other parts inside are going to be the same grade as the cheaper reels and if they fail and aren't available to replace then it becomes a costly paperweight at that point. For my uses, $100 BPS reel serves me the same as a $180 Curado would. Would last no longer cause I take care of my stuff as if it were new years after I bought it anyway.