The Rooster

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When you tie your clinch knot, do you actually wrap it around the line or do you just twist the bait or hook to achieve the same effect? I've always just twisted the lure to get it and never counted the twists so I have no idea how many times it wrapped but it's always worked for me. I guess that's the laziness in me. Since learning the speed knot though I've virtually stopped using the clinch knot for anything except the very lightest stuff that makes tying a speed knot too hard (tying a speed knot works better with weighted stuff), and even then if it's fluoro line I just switch to the Eugene knot, which is very similar to the speed knot.

Knowing the Enigma has a frame NOT made from aluminum, I would pass, especially at that price.

This should help with the direction of lure travel... As I fished today I tried to watch where my rod was as I casted. When I sidearm cast, I am making my cast and releasing with the rod still pointed sideways, or diagonally, but never straight in front of me. Also, I'm not even bringing the rod all the way around in front of me until after the lure has left the rod tip and is airborne. At this point I only bring the rod around and point it in the direction of lure travel to minimize any friction on the line from the guides so distance is not affected. It's the same way with an overhead cast. I am still pointing at the sky in a diagonal manner, not horizontal to the water at all, as I release the lure. If you want to see a visual impression of this, draw a half circle on paper with a line coming off of it towards what would be the center of the circle. This is a radius line to represent a rod. Imagine the half circle is the arc that the lure makes as it is being swung for the cast. Even though the radius line (rod) is pointing straight out, the lure is traveling along the path of the circular line, so on paper you should be able to see how it will travel as it leaves the rod tip, and it's obviously not in the direction that the line (again, rod) is pointing. Remember that as you sidearm cast to stop the lure from going left on you (as with an overswung right handed cast), or into the ground as you overhead cast for those of you who have trouble here instead.

I disagree with the release timing being different between spinning and baitcasting reels. The direction a lure goes after it's released is a function of when it was released during the arc of the rod coming around as you cast, and it's the rod that throws it, not the reel. So as far as I can see, a spinning rod and baitcasting rod should throw a lure in the same direction whether you are releasing the line of a spinning reel, or the spool of a baitcaster, as long as it's released at the same point during each cast. I bet if you tried it with a spinning rod and could actually MAKE yourself release the line at the same exact point as you have been with your baitcasting reel (in other words, release it LATE), then it would go left also. As for distance, I would fight the urge to "whip it" to get more out of it. That's asking for a backlash. I would say slow to moderate movements of the arm is what you need and that will give you a decent distance that is usable to fish with, provided you have the reel set up right for the bait that is on the rod, and the rod is matched also to the weight of the bait. That is really key here. I don't know about that particular reel. I have a few BPS Extremes with magnetic braking and I have to set them up near 9 out of 10 to cast without overrunning it. But I also have my spool tension set to just barely prevent the spool from moving side to side in the reel frame too, so it's as loose as it gets. That gives me a good distance, about 80' most times with a 1/4 oz. bait and I don't have to whip it hard at all to get it. But, the rod has a pretty flexible tip to help launch the lure too, so that's also factored into it. So, I'd say match the lure weight to the recommended range on the rod, and heavier is better to help you get the hand of this, and then practice, practice, practice.

All I can say is you're releasing the spool too late on the side cast if it's going left instead of straight out. The rod will still be pointing somewhat sideways when the lure should be leaving the tip. If it's coming around in front of you to point straight out when you let pressure off the spool then that's too late. What kind of reel is it?? Does it have magnetic brakes or centrifugal, or both?? How many centrifugal brakes do you have on/off, and/or what is the magnetic dial set at?? Hold the rod in an upright position and release line and let the lure fall to the floor. If it falls really fast it's way too loose to start out with. If it hits the floor and a bunch of line jumps off the spool then that's too loose also. Maybe a few small loops of line at best would be all I'd want to see to start out practicing with. Tighten the spool tension knob until you get that. This is a lot tighter than you will want to fish with but it will control overrun on the line some while you practice cast until you get where you don't backlash as much, and also it helps prevent severe backlash from when the lure flies off to the left or into the ground on the sidecast until you can figure out how to make it go where you wanted to start with. Once you learn direction with it and it's going where you want then you can loosen the tension knob a little at a time until you are getting the cast distance with it also. Also, I don't want to discourage you, but if you think sidecasting is hard, wait until you get on back hand casting, and underhanded casting. Those are HARD! Hmmm....this might be a bit nerdy to say, but this is sort of like trying to learn to use the force to control a lightsaber's movements.

In my thoughts, very definitely yes, he took a step backwards. BPS rods are quality. They may not be in line with a G-Loomis, but they are good rods, none the less. BUT it should be noted that I have not handled one of these so I'm only speculating based on what the Skeet Reese rod was like. Being made by the same outfit though I can't imagine much better quality on the Clunn rod. I looked at Skeet's rod and the lineguides on it were awful. The spinning rod had double footed guides, which I do not like for spinning rods. Seems it would make the rod too stiff in places and also it keeps the line guide ring too close to the blank and that lets line slap the blank as it comes off the reel. That would effect cast distance. AND, the line guides were rough too. There were places in them that would have damaged line as it passed up the blank and out. For $90, I would have expected a LOT more. I didn't like the blank either. It was WAY too limber. No backbone. That might be fine for some things but not much that I'd do with it. Then that horrid yellow color isn't helping it either. At least the Clunn rod won't have that. I read where it said it has rubber grips though. What's up with that??

OMG, that is hilarious!!! I got my first good look at a Skeet Reese rod the other day. The rod felt OK, but it sure didn't feel like $90 to me. I guess it's designed to feel that way, but it hardly had any backbone at all. The line guides were rough on it also. I was not impressed. If this is what I can expect from Wright and McGill then I won't be trying one of these either.

Green pumpkin, pearl white, baby bass, or rainbow trout, weightless rigged on a 3/0 Gammy EWG hook.

I agree with Brandon. The Trilene XL in 12# is exactly what I use for fishing super flukes and never have a problem. Actually I didn't even know it was possible to get line twist on a baitcaster (unless using inline spinners). That's how little problem I have with it.

Right now I think the best thing going is to find one of those super deals on a Shimano Curado or Citica. People have been posting they have found them for less than $50 recently.

There have been many times that I've considered putting different rods and reels together but I have to admit that a Shimano riding on a Daiwa does seem to be sacrelige. Also, I will admit I tried my Curado E7 saddled on an Ugly Stik here at home. Wasn't bad actually.

Occasionally I still get that real hum dinger of a backlash, but mostly it's really good stuff for smoothness of cast. The line feels softer also. I don't know if this stuff just coats the line or if it absorbs into it some, but it's fantastic stuff and I like it so well I don't think I can go back to using line without it. It's not sold locally either. I'll have to order it when I want it. I got the bottle I have at a BPS store on a trip last fall. Just happened to walk by it and the light bulb went on in my head so I decided to try it. It's got to rank in the top 5 decisions I ever made for fishing, this stuff is great.

I'm sure a lot of you know this but I thought I'd share it with anyone who hasn't tried it yet. Last night I put some KVD line treatment on my Power Pro 50# and today while using it I noticed it was MUCH quieter than it had been before during casting. When I first put braid on I didn't like it because it was so noisy. Now it's at least tolerable. I still don't think I like braided line but it does cast nicer now, and much less noisy too. GO KVD!!

Wow, that's an awesome deal!!!

I have used both. Whenever I go in looking for this, I usually go with the Trilene first, and the Stren if they are out of the Trilene. No particular reason. When I got started in fishing I was guided towards Trilene by the friend who introduced me to it, and I've just always used it. I've never really noticed a difference in them though, that I could pinpoint. I used 8# Trilene along side of 10# Stren once, both on spinning reels, and didn't see any difference. Being only 2 pounds different, I don't think that would affect it much.

That reel might just need cleaning and relubed. Could be all that's wrong with it. Hopefully nothing more severe, but even if it is it can be fixed as well.

I probably wouldn't have touched them either, but I'll take that 7 foot ugly stik if you don't mind. Got a 7 foot Ugly Stik Lite Pro and I love it!

Man, I wish I had known about this. Called my Dick's just now, they are all out of the Citica and Curado, every single one. To the OP, you better go get another one while you can. My guess is there won't be any left by time you get back. By the way, WELCOME TO THE POSSE!!!!

They are different. There was just a topic here a week or so ago about it. Can't remember exactly what color was what, but I know there are 2 weights. One is for lighter baits and the other is for heavier baits.

I was wondering the same thing. I used to use the XL clear/blue fluorescent always, because it was so easy to see. I switched to clear only thinking it would help, but I can't tell if it has or not. I caught fish before. I still catch them now, but sometimes the quality of the fish is better, and maybe also the number caught is better at times........but, I think that has as much to do with the me learning and just getting better at fishing as it does with changing lines. I think I'll go back to the clear/blue for a while and see if I can tell anymore about it. I know it sure would help with seeing the line at times. My eyes aren't as good as they could be.

I've only ever tried the Berkley Vanish fluoro line, but I've never had a problem with it like I've read that many others have. I use it because it sinks, and for the supposed sensitivity of it. But I wouldn't be able to tell you if it really is more sensitive than mono because I've never tried mono on the rod I use fluoro on. I do know it sinks though, and use it for that purpose. It also is stiffer than mono so I have not tried it on a spinning reel. On a casting reel, no problems, and I never get any coils on the water with it either. I've used it with and without KVD line conditioner. The conditioner did soften it up but it fished fine without it also. Oh, and it does stretch, a LOT. Some say it won't but what I'm using sure will, just like mono does.

If it's an option, and you won't be throwing a lot of cranks that need slow retrieve to get down deep, then I'd swap it out for the E7. BUT, I admit I have no experience with swimbaits so I really don't know if you need a slow retrieve with them, or a fast one, or if you work them more with the rod. If it's with the rod, then I'd get the E7 just so you could take up line quicker. On senkos, I work them with the rod so the fast retrieve there is fine for me.

LOL, what a sin!! Nah, I don't doubt a Daiwa is a good reel. I looked at going with one before getting this Symetre, but now, I'm really glad I got the one I did. It's really better than I was hoping I'd get, all in all.

Had it out again tonight for about 3 hours. No fish (darn). But it was another trip where it was a pure pleasure to use. Casting distance was superb. I'm able to throw a size 8 Rapala X-rap so far that with only 8# line I'm not sure I can get a good hookset on a strike!!!