The Rooster

Shimano Curado E7, but it was not my favorite. The Bass Pro Extreme two models back was my favorite.

It definitely is easier on the eyes without solid capital letters. I'd be interested in a new rod for $99. Market is flooded with them but what good is that if most of those aren't anything I'd buy? Another selection can't hurt a thing.

Goose, that last post of yours was so well written and the subject matter so well explained, I feel smarter for having read it. LOL. I noticed at least three of those big bass pics have KVD Redeye shads in the orange crawdad color hanging out of their mouths. Apparently I need to get some of those.

Bigbill, I have the same problem as you. I worry that once I find something I like they'll stop making it. I'm a very detail oriented person, so products that are close enough for most people don't cut it with me. I want what I consider absolute perfection in everything I buy, and then I want more than one of those. I must have inherited this from my mother. She is way worse than me, finding products she likes, buying all the store has, and hitting other stores for their stock also. For some examples, she has 300 bottles of her favorite shampoo as I type this, at least 7 sets of electric hair curlers, one in use and 6 reserves, and every 100 watt incandescent light bulb she can find (at least 4 large storage tubs full of new unopened packs). I'm not that bad. I don't have anything I've "stocked" in reserve. That's probably because my taste in tackle exceeds my budget though.

For $5, no way it's a dud. You'll at least double your money reselling it if nothing else. For me, I'd go for ten times the return, minimum, if you do resell it.

Also, my understanding of this reel from reading the description is that one set of brakes is for the beginning of the cast and one set is for the end. This means they will work differently. I'm assuming that the set for the beginning work by creating resistance by spinning out and riding against a drum inside the reel. The other set would also spin out AWAY from what they normally ride against and release their resistance. This makes sense in my head, and seems for this to work that the second set needs to be on springs. Maybe both sets are on springs. Anyway, at the end of the cast when inertia energy is lost, the first set of brakes would retract by springs or gravity and not ride the drum anymore to slow the spool, but the second set would also retract and then contact their drum and provide further resistance to slow the spool further still. I have no idea if this is right. I have not seen these reels. But it seems this is one possible set up. My point is, figure out which set is which, and turn off the set that controls the end of the cast. This will make the reel work more like other conventional reels with centrifugal brakes. You can use both sets if needed, but since you should have spool tension applied right, and also use your thumb, having two full sets of brakes also might be overkill.

What I do....loosen the cast control knob, the one that puts tension on the spool, located on the crank side. Loosen it to where the spool will move side to side. Then tighten it to just where the spool stops moving side to side. This is as loose as the spool tension ever needs to be. Go tighter if this is too loose and backlashes are just constantly happening, but never go looser. Then I set brakes to help with backlashing. I use more if it's windy outside, and less if distance is greatly reduced when casting, but most of the time I use two brakes, or three on heavier baits where backlashing happens more often from harder casting. The thing you've been told about using brakes in even numbers is bunk. You can use any number needed, even odd configurations. None, just one only, or two, three, five, and so on. Some people do recommend even settings for balance, but even three fits into that also, in a Y configuration. That's three on, three off, on reels that have six brakes. With 7, that's not possible, but 7 is an odd number anyway so it must be possible to use odd setups or they couldn't make the reel that way. I also saw that this reel has two sets of brakes? Not familiar with that. Mine all have just one set, or are magnetic only. I'd turn one set off completely and use maybe 3 on the other set, with the spool tension set like I described, and either add to that or take away as needed. Start with small casts and add distance as you gain confidence. Start with streamlined baits that don't catch air as bad to get a feel for casting. They cast easier. Things like jerkbaits, crankbaits, or a jig even. A spinnerbait with blades and a skirt will catch air and cause backlashes if you're not experienced at casting them. Go to those after you learn to cast easier baits. If you get massive backlashes with the settings like this, even with lots of brakes on, then tighten the spool tension knob some. Remember, a little here goes a long way. When I ever tighten mine, I just barely move it, and then barely move it again if not enough the first time. 1/4 turn of this knob is WAY too much. I'm talking 1/16, if that.

Haha. Love the word coinage of "brand-droid". Makes so much sense. Your descriptions of them are spot on also. By my understanding, not considering the drag upgrade or original shipping costs, you've spent less than $100 on the reel, even with repairs. Nobody anywhere can argue with results like that. Also, you may feel you haven't accomplished much with this test but I think you have. You've given the people who want to think good quality reels can be bought for much less than they've been told a reason to believe they can. Not only that, but you have also proven that the lack of a mainstream brand name on a reel is not proof it won't last. Nobody will ever again be able to say house branded reels cannot last. I think the Pro Qualifier was already developing a solid reputation for reliability before this test, but I wonder how much of that was even developed in ways similar to how you described above for "average fishing habits". I actually think most reel reputations are from that same type of promotion. For me, I think your test of this reel really drives home that the PQ truly deserves the reputation.

You didn't say how many brakes you have set to on or off. How many are there inside of it? Also, do you have the spool tension knob properly tightened / loosened? That's the knob on the handle crank side. Matching the bait weight to the rod is also a factor here. Won't go well if you have too light weight of a lure on the rod.

If they had multiple uses, like if two of the same exact rod/reel combos would be useful for having a jig on one while having a spinnerbait on the other, then I'd do it. I currently have none like that, but I would if the shop had not been out of stock on one particular rod when I went back for a second one. On reels, I have had as many as 5 of the same at the same time, only in different ratios. 3 of those were even the same ratio.

Also, the jig rating is just referencing the lead head weight. Actual total weight of skirted/lead head lures as I've observed on a scale is always higher. For jigs, it is an average of 1/8 added when the skirt and hook are accounted for, so a 1/4 jig will be about 3/8. Add a plastic trailer and you'll have a 1/2 oz. when finished. Since I mentioned skirted lures, I'll go ahead and mention spinnerbait weights also. I've found most to be nearly double their ratings, so a 1/4 oz. spinnerbait weighs about 1/2 oz., a 3/8 oz. bait weighs 3/4 oz., and so on. Much more increase than with jigs. This must be due to added blade weights. Buzzbaits are the same way. On rod ratings, I've noticed some that will throw upwards and downwards of their rated weights. It depends on their overall stiffness. But I do have one that is rated at 3/8 to 1 oz that means just that. It's a MH/F rod, and it fails miserably at throwing a true 1/4 oz. lure, but is wonderful with 3/8 and up. I haven't tried anything over an ounce yet. Don't want to break a tip just to see if it will do it.

I'm coming off of three years use with a Citica 200E and a Curado 200E7, so I'd say that's extended enough for me to know something about it by now, though I do admit I have not fished a lot during that time. Maybe 30 to 40 times in three years. in that time, I've had direct comparisons with these reels beside my BPS Extremes, which are of the older designs similar to the current PQ, but not dual brakes, only magnetics. As of now, I feel that there can be some advantages to having the lighter weight, somewhat better casting Shimanos over the BPS reels, but not enough to justify the greatly increased cost (for me). My Shimanos will be for sale soon, and for now I will be using my Extremes, until I see a reason to upgrade/replace them.

I think this says as much about Goose's durability as it does the PQ. 4 years is a long time to fish a reel that's obviously showing signs of wear. For me, I wouldn't even enjoy it anymore. But, one thing I will say, if the test reel gave up and died tomorrow, and all you got was 4 years, it was still well worth it and I'm convinced it would go at least 10 - 15 years for me the way I fish. Nobody could say it wouldn't last 5 years after all this. I might have missed it, but do you have a total cost including original purchase price and all replaced parts? It would be interesting to see what it costs to get where you are with it.

What a name! Haha.

That's not even a question of whether it's a scam or not. It's obvious it is. RUN!

It is very stout. Made of all 3/4" wood (1x6) through the main frame and has 2x4 pieces for the feet where the casters are mounted. Wood parts are also glued together with wood glue as well as brad nailed. It will withstand any normal usage and the occasional knock and bang for many years. I'm not sure it would survive a trip down a flight of stairs or anything, but if taken care of, I could see this lasting a lifetime.

Most of these jokes here aren't really dirty or clean. They've just been rough scrubbed enough to squeeze by.

My opinion is they never made one that wasn't complete junk, even when it worked the way it was intended. A product manufactured to the highest standards that is based on a flawed, inefficient design, is junk. No serious fisherman could use one of these to do as much as we do with casting and spinning reels. They work for kids because kids aren't serious (yet). When they want to burn a bait, or play hard running fish on strong drags, or fish for hours on end and not have hand fatigue, or flip into heavy cover, or any one of a dozen other techniques we use, then they'll be serious and these reels will fail on every point. It will be time for an upgrade.

Yes, I use a 4000 grit steel wool pad between coats. But I've tried it before without doing this and as far as I can see it didn't make much difference either way. Sometimes the Varathane can slightly raise the grain after it's applied and before it dries. The steel wool does help with that to smooth it out again.

Thanks guys. I'm planning to make a few more of these, maybe with some different features such as allowing for pistol grip rod handles, or have drawers in them, or whatever I can think to add. Maybe even engrave names to personalize them. Is this something you might buy if you saw it for sale at a flea market or craft show? Was the price I sold it at fair ($100)? Considering materials to build it, I more than doubled my money. Considering time involved, I didn't make much. So I really don't think I could make and sell them for less at the current cost of materials and with the amount of time needed to make one. It takes about one full day to mark out, cut and shape, sand, and assemble all parts. Then pretreatment and stain are applied and left to dry overnight. The next day the Varathane is applied in three coats with 1 1/2 to 2 hours between coats to allow for drying. That's a good bit of time involved to only make about $60 in profit. I guess I won't get rich selling these but I did enjoy making it, and turning a profit on it means it at least pays for itself and more.

Root Beer, I fixed your picture.

This is what I worry about here in KY. They've started releasing bears, wolves, cougars, and rattle snakes again here. They denied it for a while but after numerous sightings someone finally admitted it and told about the restock program to bring back native animals to the area. Hmm....lemme think. The last time native animals such as these were here with any real numbers, the only other people here were Indians and Daniel Boone who knew how to live with them. The common people of this generation haven't been raised around animals such as these and it's nothing but a bad idea to mix them now. I have the answer though. Some guys here who saw the release of the snakes waited until the truck left and then they took care of business with shotguns. I plan on something similar any time I see one of these animals. The key is don't brag about it after it's done. Just pop 'em and leave 'em layin'. This might be hard to do with a 400 pound bear but wolves and cougars won't be a problem.

A big pot of Kentucky Burgoo stew, and just let me eat until I can't anymore. Then, let me die in my sleep on a full stomach and well satisfied.

I only live in KY, where there's really liable to be nothing of much danger in the water, but one day I had the privilege of seeing a snapping turtle with a head the size of my fist and a shell about 18" across, swim up to a smaller turtle and grab onto it (for what purpose, who knows) in waters very near to where others were swimming. This thing was huge. I didn't know they got so large. It looked like a big garbage can lid in the water. I decided I value my toes too much to want to wade/swim in local lake waters anymore after seeing that. If I do, it's off of my boat in deep waters now, where finding a surprise turtle out in open water isn't very likely. I still can't believe people noodle fish for these things. That was, bar none, thee ugliest thing I've ever seen in the wild.

A few months ago I posted a picture of a rod rack I'd made but I never finished it with stain and varnish or anything. Anyway, a friend of my wife's came to the house and saw it and liked it so well she wanted one made to give to someone as a gift. She wanted her's finished with stain and varnish though. The original one I had made was 36" wide and held 12 rods, 6 on each side. At that time I discovered my largest clamp was just shy of being able to open wide enough to be very usable in making it. This time I cut the dimensions back to 30" wide and made it to hold 10 rods, 5 on each side. My clamps worked really well, and after seeing it finished completely, I like it better than mine. I finished it using Minwax wood pretreatment and Early American stain. Then applied three coats of satin finish Varathane like what's used on hardwood floors. I did this for looks but also because it's very durable. This piece must be functional as well as look good. The wood is actually just construction grade No. 2 common pine 1x6 and 2x4, but it turned out very nicely. It's being sold for $100. I loaded it up with my rods for the purpose of this photo.