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elduderino

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About elduderino

  • Birthday 12/09/1980

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    Greenville, MI

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  1. did you break the rod or just the guide?
  2. Micro guides are nothing new. They've been around for ever on ultralight rods as well as some technique specific setups used in Europe and Asia. In the last 15 years or so, rods (bass rods more specifically) have undergone a marketing shift towards being as light as possible. It used to be that you had to keep paying more and more $$$ to shave off each gram of weight - using higher modulus graphite, titaninium guides etc... well - micros get you that weight savings and they 1/10th price of a set of titanium guides. As for why you don't see "veterans" embracing this, well - i've seen plenty of respected builders using them as well as read multiple articles about the pros/cons written by them. I think any of them will tell you that in any situation, use the smallest possible guide that will effectively and efficiently do the applicable task. In cases for bass fishing, in nearly every situation - a size 6 (standard single foot size) is more than sufficient, so why not a 3 or 4? I think its not so much the builders are not embracing them, but the buyers of custom rods might have some trepidations about spending big bucks on something that is not the industry norm - cuz lets be honest - if you came to me and said "I want X, Y and Z so its as light as possible" and i told you "X, Y, Z will cost you 350 bucks... i can do "A, B, C" and make it lighter for 200 though." You'd probably be skeptical.
  3. best part about the batson's is the price. swampland has them for something like 80c a guide. After using them i see no reason to pay the extra money for an alocnite - with a guide as small as 3 - any weight savings between the two materials is beyond the threshold of human sensitivity. here is a breakdown of the batson single foots for reference... they are not sized exactly the same as fujis (ie a 3mm batson is not the same as a 3mm fuji). There's also a very easy way to wrap these little guys outlined here: http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,300464 -justin
  4. i just did a bunch of spinning and casting rods with the batson micros, really like then. I'm typically an alconite user, so this was a deviation from the norm. I used all ALPs guides to stay concistent and turned out some very lightweight rods. The one i've been using for personal use - i have been very happy with the performance. Only thing i will say is - if you fish any sort of rigs that you would tie a leader (like using a uni-uni knot) you should step up to a size 4 or 5 guide, the size 3s do not pass knots very well.
  5. the biggest fish are the also the biggest spawners - so still a great way to keep the population down. i have no love for carp, they have destroyed several lakes i grew up fishing. shoot every last one of them.
  6. i fish mostly 4" or 2.5" drop shot tubes. I've switched over to Xtreme bass tackle tubes... best colors around for the great lakes. i just got a bunch of these bad-boys in 2.5, 4" and 5" - new perch color'd triple laminate.
  7. you can build a very nice rod for under 100$. you will have some upfront costs with epoxy, thread and finish - but these will last for many rods to come.
  8. tungsten + sweetbeaver + pitchin = basses.
  9. long time ago in a land far far away.... (ontario) i used to catch a lot of smallies using a strata spoon - which is basically just a heavy, hammered silver jigging spoon made by BPS. We would get them trolling for walleye - i would just let it sink to bottom and hop it up a foot or two and let it fall. i plan on using a silver buddy a lot this season early... our season in michigan opens last sat in april.. so the prime "blade bait" fishing period is pretty short.
  10. check you out some bandit crankbaits in chartruese rootbeer also try a dark colored jig w/ craw trailer. Brown, black, blue etc... put some stink juice on it too 8-)
  11. Thanks. I have an aztek that i can't get ANYTHING to go through... thinned or not... even with all new tips. Time for new airbrush i think.
  12. those look great! fish catchers for sure. what kind of airbrush and paints are you using?
  13. yessir - just slid it right down in front of the reel seat threads after i got the foregrip off. Take some sand paper and sand down the lip off finish where it was originally and after wrapping it you can hardly tell its where new and old finish meet up.
  14. i've read that using automotive style spray paints and clear coats is the best way to go because they have more plasticizers in them that makes them less brittle and not as prone to cracking... i would assume the automotive clear coat would work also.
  15. yes - i have a cheapie motorized dryer like what you can find on ebay... if you are the tinkering type, i'm told you can make one for under 10$ using a rotisserie motor like these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008021516454363&item=10-2332&catname=electric i use a 6rpm though... bought it off a guy locally for 15$
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