Crestliner2008

The Roboworm is no. 1 for me, but in the 4" size. I've caught a lot of smallies on those. My second choice would have to be the Chompers finesse worm, 4" also. Reason being that it's totally loaded with GARLIC - to the point where opening a package stinks up the entire boat on a breezeless day! Sometimes the smallies go nuts after these worms. Finally, I have a variety of other baits that I resort to if these two don't produce for me. (A rarity.) These include the 3" Sluggo, Case Helgrammites, and various tubes.

Long Mike - It's refreshing to hear folks talk about the simple, direct approach to structure fishing the way Perry does in his book. This book should be manditory reading in grade school! LOL!

Barnes & Nobel is always a good source for what you are looking for.

Buy the LC. You will not be sorry. Just make sure it's not a knock-off. Been a big scam concern as of late.

I don't care for the Uni/Uni connection, only because of the bulk of the knot. It "clicks" when flowing through the rod guides on the cast. I've been using the Alberto (double Albright) a lot in the past few years and have become pretty good at whipping it up in a hurry. It has never failed me and is a much slimmer knot. JMO.

I hear a lot fellow fisherman with the same complaint. However, I've been using it for almost 10 years now in various tests with no problems. Go figure!?

By the time you are heading up there, the water will be in the summer period. If you are looking for big pike, you have to understand that they are a cold water fish; as opposed to their younger brethrin which frequent the shallow warmer waters. Not to say that the big girls don't occasionally venture onto the shallow flats, but they prefer the cooler water down deep. Look for steep breaks adjacent to large flats or islands. They will be suspended there, following large schools of bait. If you use your sonar to find these schools of bait, pike will be close by. I would definitely set up a trolling pattern for starters, in order to locate structures they may be relating to. Large spoons, spinner and plugs are good tools for your search. I prefer musky sized inline spinners, such as the Wendel's Musky Harrasser and 8" plugs like the Believer or Swim Wizz. Good Luck!

Good to hear you guys like beer! Most people look down at their noses at a beer drinkers in just about any group. Myself, I'm an IPA aficionado. And I've tried a lot of them. I love the bite of the hops and if I can't taste that, I'm disappointed. Right now, West Coast IPA is my no.1 favorite. Quick bite, smooth flavor, with an after taste that asks for more. I do not care for malt beers like Sam. Too sweet with no bite/kick to them. Light beers are not my cup of tea at all. Use to brew my own, years & years ago. Stopped because raising a family and staging 3 brews at a time, just didn't work out! Way too much time involved with the cleaning processes. Now I'm retired, I'm thinking about brewing again. We'll see.

Awesome! Keep up the good work.

Characteristics of a good search bait (high percentage bait) are two fold: Attracting and triggering qualities. They are used to find "some" bass in the lake, river or reservoir, to determine where they are located. This works especially well when you are fishing unknown waters and want to connect with fish as soon as possible. You could waste a lot of time thoroughly fishing a "fishy looking" spot that bass are just not relating to, due of a lot of different factors (i.e.: oxygen content of the water there). The theory of using such a high percentage bait is the thought that this will clue you into good areas to proceed with your presentation strengths and the preferences of the fish you've found. Most of the waters I've previously fished, I'm pretty familiar with and don't need to employ this technique. However, even on those waters, sometimes, if I can't turn a bite, I'll re-group and start a search pattern.

What has been said already should solve your problem. I've just rigged up with the new VMC Spin-Shot hooks myself, to see if they are any advantages. Will let you know at the end of this season. I've used fluoro for years with little problems though. I tie a Spro PowerSwivel (#8) on my main line, then the DS leader. If I get a twist (which is not often) I just let line out off the back of the boat for a minute or so, then re-connect my leader. No biggy really. I think a lot of folks get overly concerned with this problem. I've never found it to be something that would disway me from using the drop shot, for sure.

Dick's has PowerPro on sale! The 300 yd. spool is going for only $19.98. Great line btw.

I fish mainly for smallies with the wacky styled presentation. For LM, I prefer the 7" Senko fished Texas style; of course, I'm fishing much heavier cover with these as well.

Pop-R is no. 1 for me, followed closely by the large size Chug Bug. But that's when I use poppers. For other times, (i.e.: summer smallie fishing over humps) I just love the Sammy. Will bring 'em up from 30' or more. Great top water.

Never. Like the Jitterbug, they will be with us for centuries.

In order to really appreciate it's presentation, you should fish it in a clear swimming pool, beside a regular drop shot rig. You'll be amazed! Now I don't say it's any better than the standard drop shot (as some proclaim). But I'll tell you this, if you are on a bite and it dies, try this. You will get additional bites.

Al Lindner.

Check out this site: http://ezknot.com/Long_Shot.html

I agree with mod479. Experiment. The drop shot was made for that. By the way, for those times when they want a more aggressive approach, try the "Wiggle Rig". It will save your wrist by giving you PLENTY of bait action, with minimal human intervention! I always have it ready to go!

An eighth or quarter ounce shakey head with a Beaver style bait is pretty productive just about anywhere. I usually use these on shallow, rocky points. A 1/4 oz. football head with a Hula Grub is good too.

There is no "wrong" way to fish a drop shot rig. If I'm drop shotting smallies, I'm usually fishing deep water structures, in warm weather. That being said, I'll most likely be fishing vertical, over 25' - 40' of water. I use a slightly heavier weight during summer to get it down fast, once I spot some bait on structure. Once on the bottom, I move my bait very little. Just let a small amount of slack between worm & sinker and hold still. Down deep, there is usually water moving fairly well, which makes your bait come alive. No need to impart much action yourself. I really believe that some folks who "jiggle" their baits all the time, make them appear less appealing to the fish. But I could be wrong. I have cast the DS and slow reeled it back to the boat at times. I try everything on any given spot before leaving it. No real need to impart much action to your worm when retrieving it either. The way they make DS baits these days, it doesn't take much to bring out the action of your worm down there. Finally, don't discount just lowering your DS to mid-depths either, when you see fish suspended. When I'm faced with this situation, I'll lower it and drift. Can be very productive at times. Just try different things and give 'em what they want.

Truly excellent! Thanks.

Now to some folks, the term "grub" refers to a stubby, flat tailed piece of plastic, like a beaver tail. To others - myself included - a grub means a 3" - 5" curly tailed worm. I fish both about the same way; slow rolling them in close proximity to the bottom. I tend to let the beaver type grubs touch down more often on the retrieve though.

I really like the Luhr Jensen's Hotlips cranks and/or Norman's Little N's. Both have been around a long time and do produce some quality smallmouth bass from time to time. I never leave home without them.

Being retired and lucky enough to have several decent bass waters within a few miles of my home, I can fish just about every day, for a few hours in the mornings. Fishing from a boat may be only once or twice a week though.