Crestliner2008

Rapala has a series of it's original minnow plug, called the "Count Down" minnow. It sinks at about a foot per second. This is an extremely productive lure; especially early, or late, in the season and/or if the fish are suspended. What you are trying to do here is to get your bait moving horizontally at the level the fish are suspended in. This keeps your lure in the fish zone longer.

My fishing partner has most of his spinning rods with cork, as I do. However, he leaves the plastic sheathing on the cork instead of taking it off, as I do. He says it keeps the cork looking better for a longer time. I have My doubts about it being such a good practice, although I'm not sure why I feel that way. Opinions, please!

Ice out until just before they start to go up on the beds, it's hard to beat a blade bait.

Speaking strictly freshwater here, if you go to your state's Fish & Wildlife website, you'll get a listing of which waters are being stocked with trout. Those will be your best opportunity for success. Techniques vary widely, but like roadwarrior says, small in-line spinners are great. As are small spoons, such as the Thompson Buoyant Minnow. One of my favorites is a 1/16 oz. jighead dressed with a 2" curly tailed grub. On any of these presentations, it is paramount that you use light line (4# test mono will suffice) and at least a 6' - 7' light action, or even UL action rod with any small sized spinning reel. This approach will put the odds in your favor, along with any other angler fishing for socked trout. Good Luck!

Here in western MA, most ponds/lakes still have almost 2 feet of ice on them! Seems like this winter will just never end. It is encouraging that the temps are edging upward, but way too slowly for my liking. Maybe by this week's end we'll a break.

Very effective idea. I posted this technique with pictures on this link here: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/9471-wacky-rigging-my-way/ I like it because you can orientate the hook any way you like. And it's clear, so you do not detract from the basic Senko color pattern. That may or may not be a good thing, but it's something that gives me more confidence.

I totally agree. Good call.

Use a quality crane-type swivel, such as the Spro PowerSwivel, #8. I use this to separate my fluoro drop shot leader from the main line, which, for me, has to be a braid. Has worked exceptionally well for me over many years of drop shotting. In my opinion, the notion that putting a swivel between the main line and leader, creates too many knots and subsequently causes weak points, has not panned out in reality for me. I catch a lot of bass this way.

Seems like you really want to learn, which is great! There is a lot of misconceptions regarding the definitions that we fishermen use today. Especially when it comes to structure. I might recommend to you that you purchase "the" book detailing what structure really is, including breaklines, breaks on breaklines and how they relate to your fishing success. The book is entitled, "Spoonplugging For Bass" by Elwood Buck Perry, the father of structure fishing. You will definitely enhance your fishing success by studying this book. Google it.

Ice out probably won't happen around for another 2 weeks yet Been a terrible winter, temperature wise. As soon as I can see open water and can launch, I'll be carrying 3 rigs with me: 1) Medium action spinning rod with a Pointer jerkbait, switching on & off with a tube. 2) Medium-light action spinning rod with a drop shot. 3) Medium-heavy casting rod with a 1/2 oz. blade bait. One of these will be the ticket. And it usually is #3.

Inline spinners are really fish catching machines. Even many years ago, when I use to be a dedicated trout fisherman, I use to catch a lot of fish on this tiny morsel (tied on to 2# test mono) It's a 4/0 Colorado spinner....plain. Caught not only trout, but bass, crappie, perch and the occasional nasty pickeral! The biggest draw-back to inlines is that they snag easily on anything (including fish though!). This is probably why most bass fishermen don't use them. In relatively snag free environments a large inline, like a #5 Mepps, can really crush the largemouths.

Not knowing what you have for a trout rod/reel, I'll suggest 4# test mono on a good spinning rig. Tie on a 1/16 oz. plain ball head jig. Put a 2" curly tailed grub on the jig. Just cast, let it hit bottom and slow reel it back to you. Can't tell you how many trout I've caught while crappie fishing!

Abu Cardinal 100 series reels. Hard to beat in your price range. Great drags too!

I agree with Dwight.

The video does sound pretty convincing for sure. However, one observation. In seasons past, I've attempted to to use stick baits with the "hot" tails. Has actually had an adverse take ratio on my fishing. Now, that "may" be because the hot section was at the tail, instead of the center....I don't know. But as soon as I'd switch back to a solid watermelon or green pumpkin color, I'd get hit. Maybe in stained waters the addition of a contrasting color may be a plus. All I'm saying is that I'm just not seeing it, when used in deeper, clear water. Sometimes, "less is more".

If the water is fairly clear and the bottom is somewhat rocky, then by all means, the blade bait will work for you. If they are shallow, then the suspending jerkbait can, at certain times, be equally as effective. When all else fails, the tube and/or the Senko will get you fish. But, above all, you have to find them first.

I've been using blades for many years when the ice first comes off the water, until the weeds pick up. Probably one of my most successful, early season presentations. However, loosing them is a problem, regardless of their effectiveness. Barlow's Tackle has pre-molded blade bait bodies (no hooks). When you add split rings and trebles, the cost is down somewhere around $1.50/each, when purchasing 25 at a time. Very cost effective. Lipless cranks do the same, but at a much higher cost! I have probably 6 or 7 different brands of blades that I bought over the years and have cost me upwards of $5.00 - 6.00 each! None of them have been any more effective than the run-of-the-mill, standard blades, like a Silver Buddy or Heddon Sonar type. The more expensive and varied configurations do little, in my opinion, to enhance my success ratio. (But if you have a particular brand that increases your confidence level, then that's all that counts, right? The object afterall, is to catch fish!) All blades will catch smallmouth, largemouth and especially lake trout, during this early, cold water period. I fish them on a medium spinning rig with 8# test fluoro. Long cast, letting the bait hit bottom. Then I raise it just enough off the bottom (and with enough snap) so that I feel the first couple of vibrations. Then I drop it again and repeat, back to the boat. You won't have to guess when you get hit! Works in lakes, reservoirs and rivers, although you loose a lot more in rivers obviously. Normal day I'll loose maybe 2 or 3 blades per trip. Not bad when you buy them in bulk (or make them yourself).

You really need to start looking at circle hooks for this type of finesse presentation. Just make sure it's an INLINE circle hook and not the off-set version. The off-set versions will probably give you a higher hookset ratio, but at a cost of more gut hooking. If you are strictly a CPR fisherman, then the inline is the way to go. A very high percentage of lip hooked fish will be your reward. BTW, why not fish a Chompers or a Trick Worm, wacky rigged? The circle works wonders with this presentation too.

Hate to tell you how many big smallies (4#+) I've caught regularly on 3" - 4" worms.

Another vote here for MegaStrike. The stuff is amazing. Especially when you apply while drop shotting.

You need a rod with a tip that is very sensitive and light....to establish action on your bait, should you need it. It must also have a decent backbone to bring up a tough smallie from 25'+. There are many choices out there. ML action seems to fit the bill perfectly in most instances.

Both techniques are effective in their time and place. However, I feel sorry for folks that become "one-method Petes". Fishing can be whatever you want it to be. Presentation diversity separates the good anglers from the no-so-good.

Excellent drop shot worms. Especially when wacky rigged.

The most important aspect with circle hooks is that you have to pick the correct one. Inline circle hooks are far superior to off-set circles, with regards to lip hooking fish. Off-sets hook more fish, but too many will still be gut hooked. VMC makes a line of inline hooks in smaller sizes with lighter wire diameters.