Crestliner2008

I've caught a lot of cats in the Ct. River, both below and above the Holyoke dam. All you need is a modified Carolina rig; 3/4 oz. barrel sinkers, 2/0 inline circle hooks and hunk of beef liver threaded on it. Cut up suckers work well too. Fish the downstream edges of any bridge abutments or other current breaks.

I've always relied on Fleck Spinnerbaits. These lures have been around for over 40 years and still going strong. Very cost effective and durably made. You can look at them at Northern Bass Supply: http://www.nbswebstore.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?view=products&cart_id=2205505_2516&product=Spinnerbaits&manufact=FLECK%20WEED-WADER%20SPINNERBAITS

This is interesting. I do a lot of fishing each season. From deep water smallmouth, to shallow water largemouths, deep water laker fishing (jigging), salmon and crappie as well. I have been barbless on everything except drop shot hooks now for at least 5 seasons. Even the trebles on my blade baits, top waters and cranks. Rarely have I lost a fish. The late Doug Hannon was once interviewed on the subject and explained that most fish that are lost are because of the lack of penetration, not whether or not the hook had a barb. And I believe he was correct. The barbed hooks actually take considerably more force to penetrate the bass's mouth/jaw than hooks with crushed down barbs. And, he contended, the "bump" left by the crushed barb actually held better and deeper, than a barbed hook. I suppose I would be upset by loosing an 8 lb. largemouth or a 6 lb. smallie. But the fact remains that there may be other factors involved in such losses.....not necessarily the barbless hooks. JMO.

I hate this rainy weather as well. Didn't mind it much when I was younger, but now....forget it! Anyway, as to your question. Big is the way to go. Try a 7" Senko. Yum makes a dandy 10" worm which I've had a lot of success with, as well as their "Mighty Bug". Rig the later two on a weighted swimbait hook. The Senko I just TR with a 7/0 EWG worm hook. Good Luck!

Agreed....very confusing problem?

9" Sluggos rigged the way they were intended. Just make sure you have a stout rig to toss them on!

I still have two Johnson Century reels purchased in the '60's. True, I rarely use them, except when the grandkids come over, but they're still going strong. Not sure about the "new" Century reels that Johnson is putting out though.

If there are any humps or points, I'd target them first. Search with your sonar and pay particular attention to those structures that appear to have bait around them. Don't just look for fish. Good Luck!

You can and probably should, google your target lake to look at what could be decent structures to fish. That's a basic starting point. Do you have a sonar? If so, learn to use it. It will define breaks (brush, logs, rocks) on breaklines and present target areas for you. It will show if baitfish habit those breaks. It may also show fish nearby as well. Remember, not every structure will produce. Good fishermen spend a lot of time on the water and searching is a big part of that time. Soon, you'll start to recognize patterns and structure that do produce. Just don't get all tied up in your own socks with the attitude that you must be successful every time out. If you do, you'll fail. Just enjoy the overall experience. Good Luck!

I see this all the time on our Ct. River system here in MA. Whenever I see carp breaking the surface I toss my offering there right away. Usually results in a hook up with a fat smallie.

Are there any sunscreens out there that have proven not to be repulsive to fish? Most sunscreens must be re-applied several times while out on the water and I want to select a brand that I don't have to worry about having to wash my hands after each application. Maybe one doesn't exist?

I'm also a fan of the Alberto knot for leader joints. It's not technically a knot; more like a braid than a knot. Just like the old dime store Chinese handcuffs (fingercuffs) we use to buy as a kid (or get free in CrackerJack boxes!). Once you tie one you see what I mean. I do not like hearing the Uni-Uni joint click through the guides on the cast either. Can't convince me all that clicking isn't causing some wear on that joint.

I've fished musky size baits for many years with the "round" reels. Why are you so focused on a low profile model? An Ambassadeur 6500-C is hard to beat when casting all day long and needing power when it counts. Bullet proof and cost effective. JMO.

X2 - Definitely! Even the "Jr." version is great. Just don't fish where there are sizeable pickeral around.

A lot depends on the bottom content. Whether or not there are trees & brush that you are fishing around or just small rock & mud. Wherever the opportunity presents itself to allow you to wacky rig a Senko, I believe that is your best option. Also, try the Fat Ika. Great smallie bait in rivers. Reverse Texas rig it.

I've been using a 6' Tourney Trail, in light action, for drop shotting for many years. Great little rod. I have longer rods now, of different manufacture, but I keep coming back to this sweet little rod. Great action.

Old school here. I'd recommend an Ambassadeur 6500-C. Been tossing musky/striper baits with this reel for many, many years. Bullet proof, casts great and very cost effective. And you'll be able to pass it down to your grand kids. EDIT: Load it with 25# test Triple Fish monofilament.

You don't need much. Get a bunch of 1/8 oz. ball head jigs and a selection of 3" curly tailed worms, in various colors. You're good to go. I totally agree with what has been said too.....let people know your "float" plan.....when/where you are going and when you be back. And take a cell phone with you.

Also, you might consider changing out the hooks. The stock variety are notoriously dull and add a split ring between hook & lure hanger. Also, they come with two of those weird trebles; try just one.

Once a year is just fine. Been doing that for 40 years and it hasn't failed me yet. Of course, if you are a "pro" and fish tournaments often, I'd probably clean them more often than that. It's money on the line!

Anyone have any good/bad experience with this line, in this pound test rating? I'm a long time fan of FireLine; been using it for a lot of years in 4#, 6# and 10# test ratings. I've never had a bad experience with it, on my spinning reels. I do use 20# & 30# test PP on my baitcasters, simply because I like the heavier pound test ratings in that application and I like the way the line casts and lays on the spools. I will be ordering a spool of this 2# test FireLine to try out on a new crappie rod I'm getting. The reason I'm asking about this now is that I had a really BAD experience with 2# test Nanofil last season (which I've written about a few times), so I'm just not sure if when you step down to these light test ratings that the line itself cannot be relied upon for good knot strength. I've been using 2# test Trilene XL mono on two other crappie rods for many years now with no problems encountered, but with this new rod, which will be 9' in length, I want to try a braid/fused line instead, hopefully, for added sensitivity. That's the whole background story of where I'm coming from. Would appreciate any/all comments or suggestions. Thanks Folks!

I've fished the big Connecticut River here in MA since I was a boy. Spent a lot of time on the river needless to say. However, I never really started to understand what I was experiencing until I read Dan Gapan's book, "Big River Fishing". In this book Dan explains the why and where-for of most species of fish that inhabit these great rivers. Priceless information. Of paramount shared knowledge in this book, the art of "slipping" a river comes into play big time as a presentation technique. Since bass relate to structural breaks in current to stage themselves, you must present your offering in such a manner as to keep the lure in the strike zone for the longest period of time. Slipping allows you to do this. I would highly recommend you invest in this book and study it in detail. Your life will change for the better, I guarantee it.

Yes, you have no choice right now. Keep cutting. Then re-spool with fresh line. There is a way out before you start to cut however. Tighten the drag down tight. Put your thumb on the tangled spool hard and with your other hand start REELING as best you can. After a turn or two, pull any slack out and repeat. This works pretty well and I've used this technique to save the day for me on several occasions. Good Luck!

I've been a die-hard Shimano fan for many years now. But the Cabela's sales flier mentions the Summit is on sale. A savings of $20.00. Now I plan on mounting the 1000 (smallest size) on a 9' B n' M crappie rod, so getting a matching reel of this presumed quality for under $40.00 sounds pretty good to me! I won't pull the trigger on the deal until after I hear from some of you folks.

Depth and speed control are the paramount concerns, once the fish are located. Presentation involves depth, speed, size, action & color. You have to find them before you can catch them. Color is always my last concern.