Crestliner2008

WELCOME to Bass Resources. You might want to think about doing an introduction of yourself in the "Introductions" forum, next one down. This way we can all get to know you and what you are interested in.

I've taken several really big LM's on Yum's 10" worms. They are difficult enough to cast without thinking about an even longer worm. But I have heard that the longer ones do produce. If they produce "better" than the 10", I'm not so sure, but anything is possible in fishing. Right about now is a great time (post spawn) for tossing the big ones.

Lots of great suggestions. Quiet a variety of cost options cited thus far! Here's the bottom line. ANY medium action, decent quality 7' spinning rod - your choice. Go to Dick's and pick one. Regardless what opinions come your way, just about any rod in the $50. - $100. range will get the job done. Any mid-price ranged spinning reel to match. A 2500 series size is more than adequate. Cardinal 102's come to mind. Fill it with plain old 10# test PowerPro, with an 8# test fluorocarbon leader and you're good to go. If you can't get all this for under $125., you're not trying very hard. Of course, if you want to spend more, there's plenty of options out there. I've caught a ton of smallies on less.

I have two Cardinal 101 reels and love them. Have them on a drop shot rod and a jig rod and have had them in active service for over 3 seasons not. Dependable reels, good drag.

X2 - Good advise.

I don't eat freshwater fish much anymore, but I have eaten quite a variety in many years of fishing. Yellow perch is probably on par with most white fish that a lot of people eat from the ocean (flounder, cod, etc.). Crappie & bluegill are about equal as well. However, I enjoy eating pike more than any of the freshwater species. I like walleye too, but it's not a fish you can normally make a regular diet of and still enjoy. As far as ocean fish goes, I truly enjoy swordfish steaks. Unfortunately, due to cost, I rarely indulge anymore. On the other end of the spectrum I abhor bluefish!

In order to discourage the pickeral and encourage the largest bass, you might consider a large top water bait at night. The old Musky Jitterbug is still an excellent producer.

Pitching a heavy jig might work. You need to get your bait down to the bass. The other option is to bring them up to you, with a frog or other topwater bait. And don't be afraid to cast a frog right on to the bank....then slowly work it out into the water and toward your boat.

Back in the early 90's, the late Doug Hannon introduced his "swimming worm" which is similar to what you are using. Basically threading the worm 1/3 of the way in and putting a slight kink in it so that it spins slowly while you retrieve or troll. I've tried it a few times but never really caught anything decent on the rig. Maybe because I never really gave it enough time on the water. EDIT: The "Slow Death" rig used by walleye anglers is similar. They use a twisted up hook which is manufactured and offered in most sporting catalogs.

All I can tell you is that the 4" Hula Grub fished on a shakey head jig is a fine smallmouth lure.

We use to do this all the time back in the 60's & 70's. What you do is first off find a good map or draw one yourself (like we did). Then make yourself a "depth line". Tie a 6 or 8 oz. sinker on a length of parachute cord. Then tie an overhand knot 10' up and every 10' thereafter. You can weave various colored ribbons at each depth to let you know what depth you are sounding. Then when you approach an area that looks like a good structure, start dropping the line overboard (sounding) paying attention to the depth. Then mark the map at approx. where you are, what the depth is. After a time, you can map out a good structure in no time. It wasn't until the early 80's that I got my first "Green Box" - a Lowrance flasher. What a fabulous device it was back then. We could actually "see" structure and fish....and even bait fish. Now a days, most folks don't even know what a Green Box is or was!

I use a Gamakatsu #221311 In-Line Circle hook. I use the smallest size they offer in that design, a 1/0. This hook is a bit on the heavy side and is forged, so it's extra strong. I crimp down the barb and have used this hook for almost all my off-bottom presentations. Very reliable.

Well, certainly the St. Croix is a fine rod if you don't mind spending the money on it. However, you will not do a whole heck of a lot better than a B n' M 7' SHSS, in my opinion. And it will cost quite a bit less.

I'm a fan of heavier braids (30# test) on baitcasters, but the spinning rig would perform very well with 10# PowerPro. In both cases, you probably should think about a fluorocarbon leader as well. However, line selection on either of these rigs should be predicated upon the type of fishing you are doing and the terrain you are fishing in.

I agree with what has been said as well, step up to open faced spinning reels. However, to get back to your problem, it sure sounds like you've got line under the line spool guide cover. Take off the outside cover. You will find a slotted nut in the center of the line guide cover. Unscrew it and lift off that cover. I think you will find some of your line wrapped around the screw under there. Remove it and re-assemble. That should fix that particular problem. Seriously think about upgrading to open faced spinning equipment. You can usually get combination deals at Cabelas or BPS or even Walmarts sometimes.

Like C & G above....eat fish! And lots of it.

No they are not. And yes, they will help. Pinch down the barb on them too as it's not needed.

I'm never bored while fishing....after 30 casts....or 130. I love the outdoor experience. Especially when it gets super quiet!

All my hooks are now barbless, yet occasionally I still have difficulty removing a hook from deep in the throat of a bass. If that happens (and it is very infrequently), I get the hook out - period. It's fallacious in my opinion, to believe that leaving the hook in will increase the bass's chances of survival, by "dissolving" or rusting away. Won't happen, not in that bass's lifetime. That's a fact. When I do remove the hook, the odds of that bass recovering is "slightly" increased. So what? If it dies, it will not go to waste. Nature wastes nothing. Turtles, predatory birds and/or fish, will utilize the unfortunate fish. And if the fish is of decent size, I'll bring it home for my table. Final point, quality red hooks are usually gold plated prior to apply the dye to turn them that final color. Which you are correct in believing they will not dissolve as quickly as plain bronze.

You can't go wrong with the BBZ-1 in my opinion. I have the slow sink version; however I would really prefer the fast sink, as I believe I would be able to control my retrieve better with it, but since I don't have one, I can't really say. I have only about a half doz. swimbaits, including a couple of 8" Hudds. I've caught some decent bass on the BBZ, but it, along with most swimbaits, is not a "high percentage" bait. That is, you may have to cast one all day long and maybe get only one strike...or none! I usually hit the water with the intention of using one or two baits for the entire outing. I would be targeting only the largest bass in the water I'm fishing; SM or LM. I get my mind-set set up that way and just keep tossing. Sometimes you will win.....most times not. JMO.

I've had some success with them in "wicked perch". I have the slow sink version, but would prefer the fast sink so that I can control the depth better on retrieve. But, as with all swimbaits, they are a low percentage bait. That is, they are not for numbers, but for size. You have put time in on any of them in order to be successful. Hard to do when your partner is catching fish!

Troll the line behind the boat for a few minutes (without anything on it....not even a clip). That will take out any twist that was on it. Then apply KVD Line Conditioner to the spool as you reel it back in. I usually spray the reel two or three times as I retrieve it that way. Tie on your favorite lure and go fishing. That should solve your problem.

Also remember that beavers are very territorial and can be extremely aggressive. There have been many attacks on land.

Have you tried circle hooks?

I like Gamakatsu's 1/0 In-line circle hooks. Very reliable.