Crestliner2008

Interesting! I've caught some very respectable largemouths in thick slop with a frog and similar top water baits. Been doing this since the early 80's with my first Bill Plummer Bass Frog! Back in the early days we only used dacron or heavy monofilament. Now a days I use 30# test PP or 20# Fireline. Largest LM I pulled out of the slop was just shy of 7 lbs., back about 10 years ago, on the 30# PP. Did not have a problem getting that fish out with that size line. And I had a lot of weeds covering the bass as well when I pulled her over the gunnels. As a matter of fact, I'd like to see someone break 30# PP with rod & reel. I really don't think it can be done. Why then use the 50 - 65 pound tests braids advocated by a large majority of bass fishermen? I've never found a need to go that heavy myself.

One reason why I use to hate fishing the St. Lawrence river was that you could not fish a top water bait at all, or the sea gulls would grab it up! Great pictures by the way!

Welcome Aboard! Western MA here. What section of MA are you from? As to your pond, first off, we need to know what kind of water this pond contains - stained, clear or very dark. Are there signs of weed growth? Any idea how deep the pond is? You can judge the depth by casting out a 1/8 oz. jig head and count it down, on as long a cast as you can achieve. "One-thousand-one.....one thousand two....etc.. You should be getting about a foot of depth for every count. If it's over 10' deep, chances are it could sustain a bass/panfish population. Also, check for more information on the pond via the DNR, which you can call. Since you've already seen bass and minnows of some kind, I'd say try this: Rig up a medium light weight spinning rod with 6# test Fireline. Add a 3' fluorocarbon leader to the end (join the two with the Alberto knot). Tie on a weedless wide-gap size #1 hook, such as the Gamakatsu weekless (with plastic weed guard). Wacky rig a 4" Senko in a rather dull color pattern, such as green pumpkin or watermelon. Cast that rig out as far as you can and fan cast the area with a slow lift & drop retrieve. If, after a couple of times, you still have no success, chances are the pond is in need of stocking. IF all other factors prove out, such as a healthy weed growth and sufficient depth to sustain a fish population. You've already caught a bass there. So it had to come out of the belly of a larger bass. Unless the eggs were deposited via water fowl. You stand a good chance of catching something there, but I wouldn't waste a whole heck of a lot of time trying to prove it out.

I have several spinning reels set up with braid. I use 30# test PP on a 7' MH spinning rod for bass in heavy cover. I use 10# test PP a couple of medium action and light action spinning rods. Braid on any spinning reel makes it a great combination. I would, however, recommend you using a fluorocarbon leader on any such rigging. Simply because of the abrasion resistance of fluoro vs. straight braid. Join the two with the Alberto knot and you're good to go.

Buck Perry always said that he wanted fish to see his line - and thereby leading them to the lure! Not sure if that's true or false, but I use fluorocarbon leaders anyway. But NOT for the lesser visibility factor. Rather for it's abrasion resistance and to a degree, it's stretch, which affords some shock absorption. This last factor can be troublesome with some presentations.

Not sure where you are located, but here, in the Northeast (with 4 seasons), I usually start out the season (right after ice out) with a rather short dropper - maybe 4" - 10" in length. As the water warms and fish become more active, I have a tendency to increase the length - to as much as 4' in some cases (depending on water clarity). This process has worked well for me over many years of drop shotting. I have to disagree with Glenn on the Spin-Shot hooks however. Tried them for one full season. Lost way too many smallmouths on the first jump. Switched back to my tried & true - Gamakatsu Slip Shot/Drop Shot hooks, #2 - and never looked back. They've served me quite well. Not sure why the Spin shots don't perform well for me - thinking it may be an added leverage point with the swivel, enabling the bass to throw it. But I'm probably wrong.

Agree with what's been said. Until you actually rig up and fish a rod, there is no way of determining how you will perceive it to actually perform for you. That being said, you might want to take a look at the Berkley Shock Rods. Not bad for an inexpensive rod and they do make a nice 7'6" model in ML & Med. actions.

Fleck has been around for generations and I use to get black spinnerbaits from them years ago. You might want to check them out. Northern Bass Supply usually has a good selection of Fleck spinnerbaits.

Welcome aboard! If you tie direct with your braid, I can almost guarantee you that you will loose some of your lures to pike. Braid has great torsional strength, but it doesn't do much with abrasion resistance, which is what you need. Go for the fluoro leader as said above. 12# - 15# tests is fine. Learn to tie the Alberto knot and you'll be good to go. Pike will sometimes bite off a fluoro leader too, so don't get discouraged. It's just part of the game and fluoro puts the odds in your favor. Also, look for the florocarbon that is specifically designed for "leader material" (usually 25 yd. spools), vs. the 200 yard reel filler spools. Those larger spools have a softer, more supple line for reel management. I'm convinced that the abrasion resistance on these filler spools is not up to the task.

And then there's the discrepancies between the weather organizations; you have the "Weather Channel", NOAA and your local news forcasts. Rarely do they coincide with one another. Go figure. Weather folks can't predict their way out of a wet paper bag on a cold day!

Ice is finally leaving the ponds and lakes - slowly! And, of course, it snowed last night.

X2 on the hard jerkbait. However, if the bottom is not too weedy, consider the blade bait. Fished just off the deep structure edge, I've taken some dandy bass and lake trout with this lure. And I never leave home without a box of hair jigs and Senkos - just in case!

I've had a great deal of success with this little bad boy. VERY easy to walk the dog with it, as well as pop & spit. Great little lure:

I do not use O-rings as they are expensive and it doesn't leave you the option of putting your hook in both directions, unless you use two O-rings. This is my technique which, to me anyway, is both cost effective, secure, and invisible: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/9471-wacky-rigging-my-way/ Have used these for many years now. They work well.

The ponds around here are finally starting to clear of ice. Perfect time for the 4" wacky rigged Senko. I fish this on a light action spinning rod using 6# test Fireline Crystal and a 3' fluorocarbon leader. I've taken some big largemouths using this rig over the years, especially just at ice out. Hopefully I'll be able to get out on the water this weekend. Of course, right now it's snowing.

There's a difference between the main line and the backing. You will need some sort of backing on your reel, as braid has a tendency to slip on the spool if you don't secure it to the spool somehow (some reels have holes that you can secure the braid to). A few turns of 10# - 12# monofilament on the spool first, will accomplish this nicely. Use any knot you choose to make the transition, however I prefer the Alberto for every connection between braid and other types of line. Now, as far as braid being your main line, yes, do use a leader IF you are fishing beneath the surface. Top waters - frogs, poppers, etc. - need line to float somewhat, in order to maintain good contact and action. Straight braid would be fine in this scenario. You can also get away with a monofilament leader (2' - 4' would be sufficient), as mono has a tendency to float. Now if you are going below the surface and dealing with the bottom weeds, rocks and debris, you will need a leader that has some abrasion resistance to it. Straight braid or monofilament doesn't accomplish this very well. You would be better off with a fluorocarbon leader in this case. Regardless of what kind of leader you choose, do yourself a big favor and learn to tie the Alberto knot for the joint between the two types of lines, especially the leader joint.

This is what I do. Cheap and fast: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/9471-wacky-rigging-my-way/

I tried braid with the BBZ-1 and it was awful. Lost two nice fish. I believe I ripped it away from them too fast. Tried heavier fluoro which was not friendly to my Ambassadeur 6000. Finally settled on 25# test Triple Fish Perlon Monofilament. Casts beautifully. Some stretch, but not hard to get use to. And hook sets are more positive, for me anyway.

To reiterate what's already been said, there are two main reasons that I (just my opinion) use fluorocarbon over monofilament: 1) Abrasion resistance. This is my No. 1 reason for using it over mono - IF - I am not fishing top water baits. In which case, the mono wins out. Mono has a tendency to float. Fluorocarbon sinks, although not as rapidly as some would like you to think. 2) Invisibility. Or nearly so. I think that's over rated, but again, it comes down to confidence in what you are using. And do not believe that fluorocarbon has little or no stretch, therefore being more sensitive. It stretches just about as much as mono and some brands even more so. So both lines work well as a shock absorber when used as a braided line's leader.

X2 on the Shock Rods.

Concur... L & S MirrOLure.

Totally brilliant!

First off, Welcome aboard! Before you can get a decent answer to your question, you need to tell us how much you are able to spend on a rod? Then, what size trout are you targeting? Generally just about any UL to Light action rod should suffice if you are fishing for stockers. I'd also go with a 7' - 8' length. Take a look at the B n' M line-up of rods. Great quality and most are less than $50.00. The 7' Sam Heaton Super Sensitive is a good one there.

They work as well as anything else. I've never seen that much of difference between modern plastic worms. Quality today is much better than it was 40 years ago.

Any top water to start with. Then the reliable wacky rigged 5" Senko. I'll dabble with other things from time to time, but being as restricted (location wise) as I am when bank fishing, I must make every cast count.