Crestliner2008

Check out this older posting: Senkos under a float

You might want to think about using a 6/0 swimbait (belly weighted) hook with screwlock keeper at the eye. Works great with the larger worms.

Being a Destroyer sailor (and radarman) in the ship's CIC, I do know how to plot a course and Catt is absolutely correct in his assessment of early plotting techniques. Folks have it too easy these days! LOL! And, of course, who could forget the venerable Buck Perry. Thanks for flashbacks Team9nine. I have 3 complete sets of spoonplugs we used to "verify" our depth sounding discoveries. Perry was the "Man" (and still is!). Sometimes it's amazing to me to witness the blazee attitude of the newer fishing populace, with regards to all the work that has preceded them. Buck Perry, Bill Binkleman, Al Lindner.....those are the folks that truly paid their dues. Hopefully we will never forget.

Depends on the time of the year and the water temp. Early spring I'll cast it out and slow roll it along the bottom. During the warmer water periods I'll use higher retrieve in the water column along with erratic action from time to time. You just need to try various retrieves and see what works for you and the fish.

I started fishing off-shore structures back in the late 70's for smallmouth. We didn't have a sonar but we knew the bass were out there on humps in deeper water. So, we used old topo maps of the res before it was flooded and, most importantly, a hand line. Simply a heavy weight on a line, with knots and ribbons set at 10', 15', 20', etc.. We'd triangulate the visible land marks and hone in on the structures using this hand line (or depth line if you rather) to pinpoint the areas we knew were productive. A few years later, I got my first "Green Box" which was truly an eye opener. Things progressed quickly after that.

I have a bit of experience with pike of all sizes and can tell you that if you do not handle them correctly, you put yourself and the fish in jeopardy. I do not recommend using a net on pike. Mainly because they are a very fragile fish by normal standards and susceptible to skin disease if a significant amount of slime is removed. As Scott said above, best method is to grab them across the top of the head and lift ONLY the head above the water with one hand. Use your other hand to grasp the lower part of the gill PLATE (don't touch the gills, as the rakers will open you up as well as the teeth. Once you have a tight grip on the gill plate, you can lift them easily out of the water. Then, with the hand you used across the back of the head, remove the hooks as quickly as possible. When ready for releasing, lay them horizontally in the water (while still gripping the gill plate) and let them move off when they are ready. Always have a pair of long nose pliers handy whenever you are in pike waters. It also pays to have a set of jaw spreaders too. Most importantly, be gentle with these wonderful fish. Especially the big girls over 15 pounds. They are very easy to harm.

One of the reasons I switched from the uni-uni connect in favor of the Alberto is the bulk of the knot. There is no way to tie it and have it come out as slim as the Alberto, although some people say they tie it without the bulk. The Alberto, which, in reality, is actually a braid and not a knot, makes a slim, very reliable leader connection. You just have to get past the intimidating instructions which portray it as being very difficult to tie. After a bit of practice, it becomes easy. JMO.

I don't think anyone here is saying that. Rather the goal is to put the odds in your favor as best you can and let the chips fall where they may.

You know, I've been told one way is better than the other (and vice versa). My results do not prove this out however. And it's just easier to hook them inline, as opposed to perpendicular, or cross ways. Never had an issue hooking bass either way. But I'm using a large Gammy 1/0 Inline circle hook for this technique.

Try the BBZ-1 in slow sink 6" size. A very productive mid-range size swimbait.

With the Texas rig, you are correct, the tail section does accomplish the "wiggle" as you put it. However, wacky rigged, both ends wiggle the same way. This produces a very near duplication of a dying minnow descending through the water column. As has been said, candy to bass.

Amazing fish and scenery!

The late (and in my opinion great) Bill Binkleman of the old Fishing Facts magazine era (circa 1970's) wrote about this phenomenon in a writing entitled, "Undertaker Bass". In this thesis he wrote that big bass like to cruise underneath large schools of prey fish lackadaisically, seeming not very interested in feeding. However, their focus is on that school, awaiting a member to show signs of distress. At which point the predator targets on that individual and closes. The result is obvious. Bill's presentations were mainly utilizing live shiners with an internal weight (attached to a harness) inserted in such a fashion as to make it fall through the school in a very vulnerable manner. As most of us here no longer engage in using live bait much any more, a similar distressed falling action can surely be duplicated these days, using a wacky rigged Senko, can it not? Thus, even neutral to negative acting predators can be driven to focus on this falling action, and eventually enticed to strike. You just need to come close as possible to duplicating the size and color of the baitfish school. Remember, a bass has little choice in whether or not it does take a bait. It is it's nature to take feeding opportunity, as it presents itself. It's just a matter of initiating the stimuli it needs to engage. At least that's how I've always approached this situation.

To best answer your question, what kind of cover are you fishing? Open water drop shotting for smallies is quite different from "bubba" drop shot fishing in heavy cover for largemouths. There are some good suggestion here thus far and you won't be steered in the wrong direction by follow some of these suggestions. This is one the best locations for detailed information: RichZ

Tough to beat a Keitech for this kind of fishing. For any kind of fishing actually!

It must say on it what the action is. If it's a medium action, light action, etc.. And it also depends on what you plan on using it for. Most rods are pretty forgiving with lure weights unless you get crazy.

Take a look at the Berkley Lightning Shock Rods. Inexpensive and quality made.

Depending on the type of water you fish and cover you fish, you might want to try a 1/0 Circle hook. You can either wacky rig with it or nose hook it. These hooks will at least put the odds in your favor to reduce deep hooking. But then again, it depends on the type of cover you are working in. If you do try the circle hooks, make sure they are the "Inline" design, not off-set.

I've always had decent luck casting 1/8 oz. jigs with 3" curly tails on the back. Just make sure you have a LOT of jig heads (fast rivers pull 'em down into the rocks really fast!). Most colors of the tails work. Always cast upstream and try retrieving with the current. This is a more natural presentation.

I think the origin of 5'5" BC rods came into being with the notion (by the "pros" at the time) that these shorter rods were more accurate for casting to specific targets. At least that's how I understood it at the time. I still have an old (circa 1970's) BPS fiberglass MH BC rod. Matched with an Ambassadeur 5000 (red), It actually works quite well as a crankbait rod. And it even has the old fashion rubber "pistol grip" as well. I think it's called the "Bassmaster Classic" rod.

I really do need somebody to define "Best" for me? I've used several brands of fluorocarbon line, as well as fluorocarbon leader material. Sorry, but I'm not seeing or noticing any significant differences in performance. Costs, yes. But negligible, as far as where the water meets the line. And no, I have not tried Tatsu. I'm afraid that that is way out of my league, or rather pocket book. Also, no one has convinced me that a quality braid with a fluorocarbon leader, is not just as effective as using straight fluorocarbon. I think I put a lot of time on the water. I'm not a professional angler however. I suppose if I was, I would try harder at a scientific selection approach. To me, fishing is just not that serious. Rather it's fun - or is suppose to be anyway.

I'm a cheap skate. I always use backing to reduce replacement cost and to keep the line from slipping on the spool. I do use a quality monofilament backing however and I use the Alberto knot to join the two. That way I'm assured that if I tie into a get a monster, I won't get spooled. t

Another vote for the Keitechs. I only use the 4.8" size, their largest. I fish them on heavy jig heads, slow rolling along the bottom for smallmouth bass and lake trout. They just flat out work.

Fishing has defined me for over 50 years. It is what I am.

Theoretically speaking, the "real" fluorocarbon leader material is best for that purpose. Supposedly, it's stiffer and more abrasion resistant than the full spool stuff. However, it comes in small quantity, expensive spools and to be perfectly honest with you, I've never seen an advantage from using regular fluorocarbon in reel filler spools.