Crestliner2008

I'm not sure how to take a "quote" out of another post on this site, so I'll quote you as I remember it: You said something to the effect that your Wiggle rig works best "when fish are on the bottom or on structure". And that it won't work for suspended fish. I have to contradict that statement. Using the Wiggle Rig on a drop shot, over suspended bass following bait balls cruising 30' - 35' down over 55' of water, I was successfully able to lower to that depth, watching the rig's movement on my sonar. It didn't take long before I nailed a nice 1 1/2 lb. smallie and one that registered 3.25 pounds on my digital scale, before the school broke up. That happened this past Saturday. The action of the rig fished verticle like this (suspended over bait), is nothing short of remarkable. So please be careful in saying your rig has limitations. From what I've read and my very limited experience with this rig, I'd say you may be missing the boat!

I concur with the great information offered here, but sometimes you just want to curl up with a good mag and browse through all the uplifting ads promising you an endless stringer of huge fish each and every time you walk out your front door ;D. The In'Fisherman is tops if you are into multi-species, along with the oldie, but goodie, "Fishing Facts" magazine. Best thing to do is to walk into any Barnes & Noble book store and peruse their mag rack. They even have benches there so you can relax while do so! (Talk about a heck of a promotional ploy!) Then pick out the mag that has the most articles you are interested in and go for it.

I guess it all boils down to how badly you "need" to get every fish in the boat or landed. To me, sport fishing is one of the finest of outdoor experiences; which I do not associate the same way as with tournament fishing. The thrill for me is hunting the quary, using the correct presentation, catching the fish and maybe landing it. The landing is not a crucial aspect of the satisfaction I get out of this sport. A "quick release" by the fish jumping beside the boat or near the bank is - for me - a good thing! It just means that that fish will live well and grow that much larger the next time I catch him/her. And this kind of release tells me that I was successful in achieving my goal. This is why I would recommend crushing barbs on every hook possible - not all hooks (see my previous post), but most, IMO.

mayassa - you didn't say if you were using this line on baitcasting and/or spinning equipment? I've been using Vanish on three of my spinning rigs for over 2 seasons now and I love the stuff. I use 6# test on my drop shot rig and 8# test on my tube & Senko outfits. No problems, no worries. Not sure how it would fair on baitcasting rigs, but I tend to use a dynema-type fused line for those rigs.

I wish I could get a "deal" on those! I'd have to start with the regular Husky Jerks though. They kill the smallies in spring and fall in my neck of the woods. I haven't had much success with "deep" version however. Probably because smallies don't hesistate to come up for the shallow models. The "Rattlin' Rap" is as good or better than any "Rattle Trap" on the shelf.

I got to jump in here for a bit. I ordered some of the Wiggle rigs about a month ago and immediately started using them in very shallow water - so that I could see what the heck it was about and how it would influence my presentation. BTW, I fish a very deep, very clear, hilland type reservoir for smallmouth bass almost exclusively, so I naturally do a lot of drop shotting. I've been drop shotting for about 3 1/2 seasons now and have become very efficient at using this technique - under certain circumstances. That being said, I attached the Wiggle rig to the lower drop line of my DS rig. Lowering the rig straight down, I could vary my presentation dramatically in place; from an almost dead stick, to a frantic escape scenario. Side-by-side with my partner using the plain DS rig, there is just no comparison! I can do everything you can with a DS rig and a great deal more. The added benefit for me was the amount of control I now had, without the wrist, elbow and shoulder pain which is inevitably associated with drop shotting over extended periods of time. Best part is I can lower it into a school of smelt in 35' feet of water, let it sit still, allowing my bait to become a part of that school, then suddenly create a frantic escape motion which almost always triggers a strike. You really have to see this rig in action to appreciate the difference and effectiveness it affords you. I've only been using it on smallmouth now for about 3 weeks, so I can't say I have a lot of experience with it - yet, but let me tell you, it's a real "Cracker Jack"! And I can assure you, it will be part of my arsenal for a long time to come. I hope this is of some help to you folks as yet undecided about trying it. Added benefit: it won't cost you much to give it a try - unlike a lot of new lures and techniques around today.

If you are drop shotting, I would not recommend "casting", period! Will create more problems for you, with respect to twisting. Drop shotting was/is meant to be a vertical presentation technique. It is not used to "cover" water with. Other presentations can do that. Find bait and/or fish and drop shot them....straight down. Maybe that's why you are having twisting problems? Keep it straight up & down and move with your trolling motor or anchor, keeping your line below you at all times.

I attended a seminar a couple of years ago in which knot testing was performed. They challenged us to to tie our favorite knots and used a device for testing the breaking point of each knot tied. Up until that point I had never used the "Trilene" knot, which is basically a double looped cinch. It was the clear winner - even with someone like me, who had never before tied it. The Palomar was just as good though, and a lot quicker to tie. The plain cinch, with 3, 4 or 6 turns was the worse knot. So, if the amount of loops suppose to be the controlling factor, it surely didn't play out that way during this seminar. I don't remember the names of the other knots being tied, but none were as good as these two. Not sure how scientific this was, as only Trilene line (I think it was XL) was used? Hope this doesn't confuse things on this thread!

I use a small, "quality" crane-type swivel, size #12 or #14, about 2' above the hook on my DS rigs. This has worked out very well me over the years. My main line is 6# test Fluoro and the actual DS leader is 4# test Fluoro. Line twist occurs when you retrieve your rig off the bottom, as the nose hooked plastics have a tendency to rotate around the main line on the way up. The swivel will prevent most of this from occuring. I've been drop shotting now for about 3 full seasons and have not experienced any major line problems with this set-up. But it also helps if you have a "quality" spinning reel (i.e.: Shimano Symetre 1500 FI is the one I use); one with a "twist buster" type device engineered into the basic design. Some folks will tell you that the swivel between your main line and the actual DS leader will dampen the bait's action and reduce it's effectiveness. Don't believe it! My result refute this theory entirely. Good luck!

I've backreeled for many years with all kinds of spinning reels. Have never lost a fish that way, using mono or even Fireline. However, the older I get, the less I care about loosing a fish, as much as having fun. Today's modern "better quality" reels (one case where I believe you get what you pay for!) have superior, very reliable drag systems; and I get a real kick out of hearing my Shimano Symetre's drag scream as a large smallie runs! And you know, I've yet to loose a fish that I could contribute to one of these drags systems failing me - usually it's a mistake I make!

I do a lot of crappie fishing and find that the B&M "Sam's Super Sensitive" in 7' length fits the bill for me, for casting 1/32 oz. and 1/16 oz. jigs. Great folks there too! I've matched it up with a Shimano Symetre 750FI reel (their smallest size) and 2# test Shakespear "Super Smooth" mono. A very fine set-up - IMO.

You might try Diiachi's home site. I've ordered hooks from them and they do offer bulk pricing. Best of all, shipping is free directly from them.

I don't have one....yet. But I did a lot of internet investigation prior to selecting the model which I'm pretty sure I'll be buying this coming spring. First of all, the concept of being able to distinguish what it is you are actually looking at on your sonar is indisputably valuable. Just from the phychological advantage of knowing that the school of fish you are looking at on your sonar is really a school of 5 lb. bass has got to give you the edge! It would certainly keep me trying harder and switching presentations. Better to know that than fishing over a school of bullhead, no? I looked at the Aqua View and read many reports and talked to a few of my local fisherpersons who have them. They say they are not very good units for various reasons. I also looked at the Atlantis, Cabelas (which actually IS an Atlantis) and the Marcum. The best online video presentation was, by far, the Marcum. And in reading user reports on this unit, it appears this is the "top" of the heap, so-to-speak. The Marcum VS-560 looks to be the "cadillac" of underwater viewing systems at this time. The major drawback being that they do not provide a digital recording device for these systems - yet. It would be nice to be able to catalog various videos with GPS locations at various times of the year on your particular body of water. What an advantage! I will post my own observations if I end up shelling out the $600. for this unit!

Concur with Raul, I have several Sahara's and they are just plain workhorses of the highest calibre.

I agree with TCR. Cranking while the fish is taking drag is about the worse thing you can do while fighting a fish. Better alternative is to slowly increase the drag while the fish is taking it out, but do NOT crank! Your next cast will convince you as to "why" not to crank while a fish is taking line out, as you throw a heck of a birds nest (due to line twist)! Even better than relying on your drag is to crank the adjustment down tight and turn the switch lever to the off position - this is called "back reeling" and gives you much better control over your fight. This is especially true when dealing with large fish and light line. I back reel alot, but when fishing for smallmouth, I just love to hear the drag buzzzzing away as the crazy fish runs

First of all, for us fisherpersons, tackle is not all that we need great customer service with. For tackle though, I've been really impressed with Rodney Long and his service and advice on supplying his great "Wiggle Rigs" for drop shotting, TX rigging and even carolina rigging. His service is one of a kind, believe me (http://ezknot.com)! But now there's our boats! If you're talking about boating accessories, you cannot beat the "Stay N'Charge" battery charging system by Jim Payne (www.stayncharge.com). I've been useing this charging system for both my boat's batteries for 2 years now and truly love it! His customer service is unbelievable! I believe there is no better battery charging system on the market today and/or customer service for fishing boats. IMHO.

Interesting discussion! I am in favor of crushing down the barbs on some hooks. I use mainly inline, circle type hooks and always crush the barbs. Rarely do I ever loose a fish that way. However, with the drop shot and very light line (4# test), I leave the barb. I loose far too many fish on the first jump if I don't. And most times the fish are lip hooked anyway, so it's not an issue. When I use tube jigs and TX rigged plastics however, I crush the barbs to facilitate hook removal. To say that keeping the barb is no more harmful than not having it, cannot be substantiated by DNR authorities or literature. Especially if hooked deeper than the lips of your quary. I don't know how many times a bass has literally tried to swallow a Senko, regardless as to how fast I try to set. And a large off-set hook buried in the gullet cannot possibly be removed without a greater incident of damage to the fish when the barb remains. This is yet another incidence where I can't remember the last time I lost a fish before releasing it - without a barb. IMHO.

My vote for pike would be the 6500-C. I've caught a lot of pike on that reel over the years. I've matched it up with Cabela's "bucktail" rod (not sure if they still make this model or not?) 6'6" long. Reel is loaded with 20# test dacron and a steel leader of at least 18". (Yep, pike will still take a lure away from you with a 12" leader ) I really don't believe you need to go heavier with the line unless you are targetting the largest muskies. My PB pike was 43 1/2" and weighing 22 pounds; taken in open water in July on a Wendel's Musky Harrasser - using this same set-up. No worries.

I suppose it would depend on the species you are fishing for and the type of water you fish. I fish several deeper lakes which contain mostly smallmouth. I've been very successful using a 3 1/2" watermelon tube with a 1/8 or 1/4 oz. (depending on the depth being fished - try to stay as light as you can) exposed hook tube jig. I fish both the ones with and without rattles. I really don't see a significant increase in my catch ratio with the rattles however(?). I do my fishing in from 8' to 35' of clear water. I cast out & let it settle; as soon as it hits the bottom, I then snap it off the bottom (vary your snap from light to heavy and let the fish tell you what they want), letting it settle again and repeating back to the boat. Once it's directly below, retrieve it very quickly with an erratic, snapping retrieve straight up. This can be dynomite! Have caught lake trout, rainbows, largemouth and smallies this way. When I'm after bass, I always have a rod rigged with a tube. In my experience, tubes perform best in the spring or fall. I just haven't done well with them in the summer time. But I do occaisionally score at that time as well. I don't have any experience with the tube on the C-rig, although I'd like to give it a whirl one of these days. Hope this is of some help to you ;D

A few weeks ago I ordered some of these from Rodney Long. So far, I'm impressed! I've caught several nice smallmouth using this modification with my drop shot rig. And you just cannot beat the action it gives you with your worm or minnow imitation. Has anyone else tried this? Here's the link if you're interested: http://ezknot.com/Long_Shot.html

I've been using the slip bobber technique with a wacky rigged Senko for about 2 years now. I fish open, deep water humps for smallmouth. This technique works very well when there is a chop on the water and you can adjust your worm position by first using an ice fishing "depth sounder" type clip-on weight on the hook. I've positioned the Senko from 6" to as much as 3' off the bottom this way; and you can target suspended fish quite accurately by using your sonar to check the position of your bait in relation to the bass. I feel that you do need a slight chop on the water to be most successful, although I have caught some really nice smallies first thing in the morning on calm water too. Go figure?

WRB - some fine information!

Thanks for the input guys. Like I said, there is little written literature on this subject for some reason?

Find something the baitfish are relating to in the deeper sections, i.e.: trees, humps, or depressions. If you find the bait out there then put a drop shot down and work each spot. If that doesn't do it, suspend a wacking rigged Senko under a slip bobber (use an ice fishing "sonar" weight to adjust the depth on your hook). With one or the other techniques, you'll get your share of LM bass - if you find the bait.

There are probably a lot of opinions out there on this subject, but I have to ask, just how deep can you take SM from and still practice successful CPR? I fish a large, deep hilland type reservoir with many submerges hump type structure and very clear water. Seems like every year they move to the 40' - 50' depths adjacent to open water humps, but I'm reluctant to fish them due to my concern about their well being. Anyone have any facts on this subject?