Crestliner2008

Normally our water ways freeze over solid by the 2nd. week in Dec. here in MA. Last year we were fishing open water just about everywhere during the 2nd. week in JANUARY. Then, and only then did it freeze up. I love it! Here it is nearing the end of October and the water temp is still 64 degrees! ;D

I agree with Micropterus - these connectors will definitely do the job for you. However, you do not have to solder them though. I use 4 of these connectors between my tow vehicle and my boat; all of which I've installed myself. I just crimp them in place - according to the instructions - and use liquid electrical tape to seal the openings. Has worked well for me for 2 years now with no problems to date.

I fish in the Bay State (MA) until ice up. Last year a group of "MaAngler's" were fishing during the 2nd. week of January in open water! You get years like that. Now until ice up - whenever that occurs - is the best fishing for all species. We have no closed season here in MA, so ice fishing takes over directly, when a foot of so of ice covers the ponds. The waterways usually open mid-March or so and the new open water season begins again.

Why not consider Fireline? Much smaller dia. than mono, no memory and no stretch. Using a 2' or 3' fluoro learder tied with back to back Uni Knots, you're good to go.

If you do a lot of panfishing, then please do look at the B & M rods. I have two. The one I truly love it the "Sam's Super Sensitive" in 7' length. Matched with a Shimano Symetre and 2# test mono, it's a dynomite rig. IMO.

Interesting response Ann-Marie. But you make is sound like this "unconditional" guarantee is just on your unit. It's not. Same with the Stay N' Charge. All I'm saying is that this system works for me - and all the "Bassin' Gals" tournament people. Along with countless units in the field on both tournament rigs and on rigs like mine. It flat works - as I'm sure your system does. Why did you not respond to this person earlier?

I know it's a little late in the season to be asking this, but here goes anyway. I have a new Lowrance X-135 sonar. The literature that comes with this unit suggest that it is relative easy to locate the thermocline with this unit. However, all season I have been unsuccessful in being able to "see" it. I've tried increasing & decreasing the sensitivity, adjusting chart speed, etc.. What am I doing wrong? Is there a surefire way to adjust a capable sonar so that you can get to see the thermocline? BTW, I'm fishing a very clear, deep hill-land type reservoir about 15 mi. long and about 8 mi. wide. It has a lot of 100' foot water, but the aver. depth is probably closer to 25'. We fish for smallies and lakers there, sometimes over 60' - 80' (lakers). Just can't seem to define the thermocline? Other folks who troll for lakers and salmon almost exclusively say they can see it on their sonars(?). Are they fibbing?

Here's an alternative for you. For a mere $49. you can purchase a "Stay N' Charge" charging system for your tow vehicle. Uses the vehicle's alternator to charge your battery(s) while you travel to & from your destinations. I've had mine installed in my F-150 and charge both my trolling motor battery and my starting battery for 2 seasons now. Have experienced no problems. Best part is, I never have to worry about charging; finding a 115 circuit, running an extension cord or hauling a heavy charger. A plus on the side is that no heat is generated. Check it out at: www.stayncharge.com. You won't be sorry.

Last year I bought a brand new Crestliner Sportsman 14. It's actually 14'7" and is rated for 35 HP. I've got a 15 HP Yamaha on it now and wish I'd have gone to the 25 HP.

Very simple. Go to your sporting goods store and buy a couple of "depth finders" used for ice fishing. They are 3/4 oz. weights molded onto an alligator clip. Attach it to your hook and trip your bail. You bobber stop will probably take the float under, at which point you can gage how far above the bottom you want your bait to stay by adjusting the stop. I use this kind of rig all the time with wacky rigged Senkos for smallies. Hope this helps.

Another option you may want to consider is to crush down the barbs on your hooks. With experience, you won't loose as many fish as you might think. Makes hook extraction a breeze.

If you want to know the surface temp and the temp you are fishing in, a fairly reliable and VERY old device is the "Depth-O-Plug" which is still being sold at Netcraft.

If the water is clear, the fish are probably seeing you before you see them. In which case, your approach is paramount. Stay low, use camo, keep brush or trees to your back. Do NOT start fishing as soon as you are at the spot you want to fish! Give the area time to settle down. Downsize your presentation and rigging, i.e.: 6# test line and a 3" Senko wacky rigged. Use natural colors in your plastics. You need more of a triggering presentation than an attracting presentation. Hope this helps.

I usually gage it by light vs. temperature; if the sun is bright overhead, I can usually find some active fish. I, too, fish the CT River in MA. Right now they are bunching up in deeper holes, closer to the dams. Surface temp may be around 60 degrees right about now. The best time is just starting!

I use 1/4 oz. tube jigs inside 3 1/2" tubes very successfully for smallies in 25' - 35' of clear water. You must use a good fluoro line (6# or 8# test). Cast it out and let it hit the bottom. Once the line goes slack, give it a decent jerk up off the bottom and follow it back down. You'll learn how many sec. it takes for it to get back down. One of those jerks will have a large smallie on it....I promise

I also concur with RW. This is one fine bait. I fish it backwards as well, on a similar 4/0 EWG hook, texposed. I've only started using this darn thing about 3 1/2 weeks ago and I'm really impressed. However, I have had a great deal of success fishing it in our CT River, casting against bridge abutments and letting it drift down along each side. A killer on smallies! I also bought a couple of packages of the "Big Ikas" as well. I think they are even better on the smallies, fished in a similar fashion. They seem to 'wiggle' a bit more and increase the triggering aspect of the bait. I've also been fishing them - in this river - using a 1/0 inline, red circle hook. I simply hook it through the tentacle end, cast her out & let her drift. Marvelous! Much more productive than regular Senkos IMO.

Dissagree. I've been using #2's for 3 seasons of drop shotting and have had no problems. I am fishing straight up & down over 25' - 40' of very clear water for smallies. Using 4# test fluoro line as well. Have taken many over 3 lbs. and a couple of 4's to boot. Also, I've recent shifted over to the "Stand Out" hooks with great success - #2's again. My goodness, 1/0's would be huge for this kid of riggging, unless you're going after LM in weeds or wood. IMHO.

Great idea if you can afford them! The graphic model are $79. a piece though. A quality pair of skiing goggles goes for a bout $20. and works just fine. Neither will protect you in the rain unless you are wearing a quality rain suit, so rain should not be a deciding factor.

Get a plain Road Runner (no dressing) and attach a clip on spring screw - available from Cabelas, BPS, etc.. You're in business!

Fat IKA's are really great, but have any of you tried the "Big IKA"? It's just a tad longer in the body than the fat model. I've successfully rigged it on 5/0 EWG red hooks (reversed, of course!) and have been killing the bass here! It has just a bit of an end wiggle to it. Not sure if this is what's doing the trick or not, but I'm catching and I'm happy .

Wow! You guys have some spectacular water to fish Here in the Bay State (MA) we have several prime bass waters. The first is my favorite and the one I fish most often, the Quabbin Reservoir in Central MA: Beyond that we have the CT. River, Quinnsigimond Lake, Webster Lake and slew of other bass waters. For the size of our state, we have quite a few fishing resources.

When I started my son off on the road to deer hunting at the ripe old age of 7, we use to play a game. We'd shut off the TV, close the room off so it was quite, dim the lights and see how long we could go without catching one or the other making a movement or sound. I'd always reward him with a "goodie" regardless, but my point is, you have to start kids off young with proper training. Please believe me, I'm not suggesting that you are not doing so with your son, but if you can improvise some "fun games" like this, you will speed him along to where you need to be. Just a suggestion.

I'm assuming you are fishing from shore? I'm also assuming you have specific target locations where you've seen and/or caught LM before. The time period you are fishing is probably the best for feeding bass. The only problem you are faced with is becoming invisible to the fish. And I mean that in more ways than one. First, use camo clothing if possible. Approach your target area VERY quietly - use soft sole shoes of some sort. Also approach with the sun to your back where possible. Keep bushes or trees in back of you to break up your outline. Don't move around much and once you are in position, let the area "settle down" a bit before making your first cast. Use fluorocarbon line on your rig. Cast precisely. Use a triggering bait vs. an attraction bait (i.e.: soft plastics such as a Senko vs. a Rattletrap). Try to fish pre-frontal conditions. Be patient and you will be rewarded.

Two and a half years ago I bought a BPS Bionic Blade spinning rod for $79. (as I recollect?) one piece, 6'6" in ML action. Fine tip action and plenty of backbone for this technique. Has served me well and has boated hundreds of smallmouth. I use it several times a week fishing a deep, clear hilland reservoir here in MA. I'm not really interested in brand names per se; I want a rod that feels and performs well in my hands. This rod meets that criteria nicely, IMO.

Fat Ikas