Crestliner2008

Went out this morning between 7 & 9 am, hitting some local ponds from shore. Medical issues have prevented my fishing partner, Walt, and I from doing much boating this spring - unfortunately. Used mainly 1/16 oz. ball heads with a variety of plastics. Most productive were the straight tails. When I quit - due to aching shoulders from all the casting and the necessity of relieving myself - I caught & released 44 crappie, one fingerling LM bass and a very decent bluegill. Not a bad way to spend a short morning of fishing with UL rig (SHSS) and 2# test line. Did not catch any giants, but most were of this size: Well, it will only allow me one picture I guess??? Sorry! LOL!

Like I said, we vertically jig for lakers here all year long. Medium-light to medium rated rods will do. I prefer spinning, because it gets the jig down faster. We use 8# test Fireline Crystal for main line, with a 4' - 5' fluorocarbon leader rated for 8# test as well. The leader is mainly for the shock absorption as well as abrasion resistance. Lakers have vicious teeth! We mainly use 1/2 oz. - 3/4 oz. blade baits (i.e.: Silver Buddies). All you do is lower the blade down to the bottom and jig it on/off. You'll get bit. We have had to make modifications to our blades due to the snagging potential of the bottom content on the lakes here. We remove both treble hooks, replacing them with a single 1/0 hook on the rear split ring. This has not reduced our hook-up ration at all. And we crimp down the barbs as well, which reduces damage to the fish or US, should a bait come flying back at us! Here's what the mod looks like that has proven itself successful over the last 3 seasons of use. The hooks on these baits are VMC In Line Single Hooks. The inline feature, when combined with a split ring, lines up the point of the hook with the body of the bait: One more thing. You can get blade baits in bulk at Barlow's Tackle. They sell just the molded blade bodies for $25./doz.. I buy only SPRO split rings (much beefier than standard split ring). The VMC hooks are available through several outlets, including Cabelas. The only other thing you may want to do is to put a Spro PowerSwivel (crane style) about 18" up from your jig. Lakers love to roll on your bait and will create a serious twisting problem in you line without a swivel strategically placed. As soon as you get your first laker this way, you'll give up on trolling.

Well, I suppose if you want to do that, it is one way of catching lakers. However, I prefer vertical jigging on med-light spinning tackle myself. Check out this link for additional information: https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/173871-lake-trout/ If you decide to try vertical jigging with light tackle, let me know and I can give you some more detailed specifics.

The 10# test will probably handle most of your fishing requirements, fishing from shore. I would suggest using a 4' - 5' fluorocarbon leader though. You need it for the abrasion resistance as well as shock absorbing quality of this kind of line.

Another vote here for the Boomerang tool. Priceless.

What species are you fishing for? What is the water clarity like? Do you have to contend with weeds or brush? A bit more information would be value added. Personally, I dislike fishing in the wind, but when you have to, casting a spinnerbait in front of a weedline that the wind is blowing into, can be dynamite! You can also drift fish, but that's dependent on what species of fish you are after.

A fine goal you've set for yourself. However, I do hope you understand that big swimbaits don't necessarily equal success. I've caught a lot of big bass on tiny baits. And remember, with those 8" Hudds, you'll be lucky to get one or two strikes a day. A day that's filled with a long hours of casting and sore arms. Some think it's worth the effort.

Read the articles here that Glen has shown. Get yourself a copy of "Spoonplugging" by Elwood "Buck" Perry. This will teach you the basics of structure fishing and how bass relate to it. From there, you find the bass's location, dependent on the seasonal period in your location. Then execute whatever Depth & Speed control is necessary to illicit a strike. Lures and presentations are just tools to facilitate your achieving the end result. Pretty simple formula. But a lot of folks overthink it. JMO.

Thanks Darren.

Can someone give a link to these black, slimmer bobber stops?

Another vote for the Shock.

Gorgeous fish for sure! We have them stocked in our waters as well. Haven't caught one yet though.

Even though I've been drop shotting for more years than I care to think about, I gotta admit, I've just learned something new! Using bobber stops instead of a knot. Excellent idea. Do they make bobber stops in clear plastic? A final thought. I now believe the drop shot is more of "do nothing" or "dead sticking" approach. When I first started using this techinique, I would jiggle it almost constantly. Now I know better. Just let it sit. You'll get bit.

Great picture! Congrats on the award. What do you mean you don't have the gear for lakers? We vertically jig for them with med-light spinning equipment. And we're effective at catching them. You do not need anything special to catch them as long as you are not trolling for them.

Not an easy question to answer. Depends on a lot of factors. What is the depth of the lake and clarity? Where is the weed edge closest to the main channel? Are you fishing from shore or boat? What kind of equipment are you using? What size of pike are inhabiting the lake? Pike up to about 9 lbs., are to be considered a warm water fish, choosing similar cover/weedy ambush points as LM bass. Pike over that weight become cool to cold water fish, preferring to suspend in open water basins, under and following large schools of bait (trout, yellow perch, etc.). Which are you targeting? These two grouping sizes of pike are almost different species from each other, in their habits, location and forage base. If you just want to catch a pike, not caring which group size you are targeting, then you may want to try casting a bass frog over the top of semi-open weed edges. That'll get you a lot of "hammer handles" in a hurry. If it's a trophy you are after, then you must consider trolling deeper weedlines with a variety of large deep diving crankbaits and/or musky size in line bucktail spinners. Without more information, that's about the best advice I can give you.

Braid = increased sensitivity and brutal strength. But I would also use a 3' - 4' fluorocarbon leader. PowerPro or Fireline in 10# test, with an 8# test fluoro leader with take good care of you, I promise.

I agree, rubber bands can't take the punishment. O-rings are pretty good, but I'll rely on my time tested "Goodies": Wacky Rigging My Way Been doing this for about a dozen years. Time tested. Inexpensive. Easy to use. Effective.

Hard to beat the Keitech baits. Some of the hollow bellies aren't bad but they just don't stand up well when the fish are really on the bite. I prefer the Fat Swing Impacts myself.

Years ago when I was into doing some carp fishing I used a standard recipe of any kind of brand flakes, crushed into fine granules, then add just enough strawberry soda to form the balls. They mold nicely on treble hooks and give you a decent snack if you hungry as well. Oh, and yes, they do catch carp!

Like Keeper says, make your own loop. I use dental rubber bands.

Congrats! Great largemouth for sure. Imagine what that fish will weigh once it's body catches up with it's head!

No one can state that you use this or that before you arrive on scene and evaluate current conditions. The only thing you can do is generalize about what might work during a particular season of the year.

When I first started off tying leaders on braid, using the Alberto knot, it was suggested that a small amount of super glue would increase the knot integrity. I did it that way for the first season using this set up. Second season, I didn't have any glue, so I just went with the uncoated knot. Guess what? Neither way caused a break at that knot. Now I ignore the glue and go strictly with properly tying a good knot.

Five years old. OK.....do you really want to start them off with an artificial lure? I'd go straight to a worm suspended under a bobber. This way, they can cast, retrieve or let it sit and they will still catch a fish. If dead set on an artificial, then I'd go with a 1/4 oz. Jitterbug. Full of visible action and when hit he/she will be a dedicated angler forever.

WELCOME Aboard! You've certainly made an excellent choice in joining this forum. Everything you need to know is here and the folks are the best with help and assistance. To start off, start reading and learning from the articles and posts here on this forum. Put into practice what you read. Then, read some more. It's a tough row to hoe if you just start fishing and expect to catch bass, without having the basic knowledge of bass behavior and the predator/prey relationship. Try to get your hands on a copy of the book entitled, "Spoonplugging" by Elwood "Buck" Perry. You might find a copy in your local library or you can buy one online. Buck is considered to the Father of modern bass fishing. And, if nothing else, you'll learn just what the term "structure" is and how bass relate to it. Digesting even a small part of this book will put you way ahead of a lot of other fishermen out there - I guarantee it! Finally, to get started right off the bat. Try tossing a "wacky" rigged 5" Senko where you fish. Watch your line. When it starts to move off, set the hook.