Crestliner2008

So, let me get this straight. The difference between a slip bobber set-up and this F n' F set-up is the ability to "SHAKE" of the jig, right? Hmmm. OK, but if you try a slip bobber out in a swimming pool, you should be able to see if it can "shake" it as well? I do all my new technique rigging in the deep end of the pool, so I can see what the fish sees and present my lures more effectively. Come spring, I'll do a side by side evaluation in the pool on these two bobber set-ups and let you guys know if there is a significant difference. For now, I'll keep the $$$ in my pocket and forgo the F n' F. rw, thanks for all the sites. They all make it sound like this is a dynomite presentation. I'm just a tad bit skeptical. Especially when someone tells me you "have to" buy a specialized rod and line set-ups, of any kind. Guess what, I don't even use a 7 1/2' rod for flipping .

Hard jerks are very high on my priority list for early season smallies. However, at $15 bucks a pop, the LC's do raise some eyebrows. Here's my opinion. The action of a hard jerk is in the hands of the the angler. It's sort of like plastic worm fishing. The only thing you really need to be concerned about is what is your bait doing when you pause it. Does it float up, stay where it is, or sink? Best bait action I've found is when they slowly decend on the pause. This changes by the barometric pressure on a given day and the water temperature. Carry some suspend dots with you and I really don't think the less expensive jerks are any worse - or better - than the LC's. (I've been using the LC's and X-Raps with little difference in my catch ratio.) As a matter of fact, Netcraft has some knock-off 78's & 100's with a darn good looking finish, for around $3 bucks a piece (without hooks & hangers of course). I'm going to give them a whirl this coming spring myself.

No doubt about it, if you are fishing for smallies, the curly tailed grub has to be in your arsenal. I've been using them for over 25 years now; up until some of the more sophisticated riggings came out, this was the no. 1 presentation for guaranteed success on smallies. The 3" size are the best for numbers, but the 4" get the bigger bass. Put them on a 1/8 - 1/4 oz. jig head, depending on the depth you're fishing. If you're using an on & off bottom retrieve, rig with the curly opposite the hook. If you are using a more horizontal retrieve, have the curly following the bend of the hook. Crawl, hop, slow troll, or jig; you will catch your share of smallies with curly tails. Right up there with tubes, jerkbaits and drop shotting. IMO.

fishnaddiction - you can use anything you want on this rigging. However, I would think about using the fluke; it's best attributes are when it's used as a soft jerk bait. Difficult to impart that kind of action when on a wolf river rig, not that it can't be done mind you. I think you'd be better off with something that has it's own action, i.e.: Rapala, spinner or worm. IMO

Not sure how to do a quote, but Jig Man, you say you can't use a slip bobber because the jig will rise when pulled or action imparted? If I quoted you correctly, I believe you are very much mistaken and/or you've never set up a slip bobber correctly. I've even trolled with a slip bobber and have never seen the bobber stop leave the top of the bobber! So, I'm not sure where you are going with this? Please elaborate.

Thanks rw....even those sites specifiy a 10' or longer rod with special rigging and jigs! Can't imagine telling my wife I have to buy a 10' rod for this specialized fishing! And in reading articles about it, I just don't see why a slip bobber on a regular rod wouldn't suffice?

I did a search on this topic, on this site and came out empty handed , so I guess I'll ask here. Has anyone used this technique for river smallies? If so, what were your results, what were you using to deliver (rod, line, leader length) the presentation and did you find it was worth the cost of a specialized rig? I've done some online research on this technique; from what I can see, a regular spinning rig, with a slip bobber set-up should work equally as well? Hate to spend all the $$$'s for a rig that is that specialized unless I'm really missing the boat on something here! Appreciate your opinions and experiences.

We use to call this a "Wolf River Rig" and we use it on the river here. Drift or preferrably troll downstream (just slightly faster than the current), with enough weight to bump bottom. We use 10# Fireline as the main line (maintains depth real well with very little water resistance); a 3' - 5' Fluorocarbon leader - no more than 8# test; the sinker dropper is 6# test mono to facilitate easy breakoffs. We're considering the Lindy "No-Snagg" sinker, although they're pretty pricey! We use floating rapalas or Tx rigged worms (spinning worms work GREAT!) or Senkos in our presentations. I've also used the Gapen "Bait Walkers" for the weights, but find that it keeps the bait a bit too close to the bottom, with no adjustment. With the Wolf River Rig, you can adjust for suspended fish quite easily by adjusting the length of the dropper line.

First off, I'd recommend a 7' UL rod for stocked trout. They tend to cruise the drop offs or shorelines a lot, so finding "structure" is not all that important for stockies. Use 4# mono on a small, quality (best you can afford) spinning reel and you're good to go. I'd recommend a 1/16 - 1/8 oz. jig head and a bunch of different colored curly tails. Cast out....let it hit bottom....and slow reel it back in. Sort of like cold weather panfishing. You'll catch your share!

Stick with the hard jerkbaits (i.e.: XRap, Husky Jerk) and you'll do just fine

That's one beaut of a smallie! Wish I could fish right now Just got 12" of snow on top of single digit temps here in MA, so I guess it's going to be awhile before I can wet a line again. Congradulations on your PB though!

Great lure for panfish of all kinds. I've also caught trout on them, as well as largemouth and even pike! I usually fish them on 4# line on a 6' UL BPS Micro-Lite rod. Pre-wet the marabou tail! Then I cast it out and let it actually hit the bottom - regardless. After my line goes slack, I start a slow reel back, keeping my rod tip about 11 O'clock - ending at 9 o'clock at the end of my retrieve - watching the tip for the entire retrieve. The tip will twitch, go slack or load up....set the hook! I, too, crimp down the barb as most of my fish are C&R.

That was GREAT! Thanks muchly for sharing .

Crappie, and panfish in general, are near and dear to heart, although I'm a smallie fisherman first and foremost. I've caught a lot of crappie. That being said, I have two outfits which I use for this species. My first is a BPS Micro-lite 6' UL with a Diawa reel to match. I load this one with 4 lb. green mono; I have used 4 lb. Fireline as well, but my bite ration seems to diminish (line vis?) as compared to mono or Fireline with a leader. This rig is used with 1/16 oz. jigs and Road Runners. My second outfit is a B n' M Sam's Super Sensitive 7' UL, matched with a 750 Symetre. This I load with 2 lb. green mono (Shakespear). This later outfit is used for the finiky bite and when I'm trying to entice a school of big crappie to take on real lite (1/32 - 1/64 oz.) jigs. I also use this rig when I want to have a LOT OF FUN....this 7' rod is a pure pleasure to use. Even the 8" - 10" crappie give you a tussle on this rod! And when tie into a 14" crappie, it's like fighting a musky!

Thanks guys. I agree. A big smallie will take 7" perch with no problem. So it seems that these swimbaits would be a natural. Just too many other presentations that are productive though. I'd find it hard to focus on that one bait for long. But I would like to give it a whirl this coming year.

Lost my F-150 in Oct. due to a cracked frame & other repairs which just didn't justify putting more $$$ into it. Consequently, I'll be looking for a used truck come Feb. time frame next year. First though, I'm pulling a 15' alum. Crestliner (2006 Sportsman) with a 15 hp Yamaha on the back, along with trolling motor and two batteries, gear for two guys, etc.. Guestimate the weight to be added onto this new vehicle will be about 1500 lbs., give or take. I am seriously looking at a Toyota Tacoma 4WD pickup. I've heard good things about these vehicles as far as reliability and toughness. My main concern is whether or not the 4 cyl., w/5 speed manual tranny, can handle the haul 2 or 3 times every week during our open water season. Or should I look for a 6 cyl. engine instead? Some of the ramps I launch in are not paved; some are steep. Launching is usually never a problem. It's when it comes time to pull out where you need some muscle! So what say you all? Appreciate any opinions or suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Anyone ever use these for smallies?

My kids got me the Garmin eTrex Legend CX last Xmas. Fantastic unit. I'd recommend it to anyone.

It seems like some bass fishermen here are either using strictly baitcasting or only spinning rigs(?); whereas these are just tools to accomplish the same thing - catching fish. Like the difference between a putter and a driver, you should include both in your rod locker if you expect to be consistently successful - IMO. And if you get real itchy come January, you might find a small pond which has a thick layer of ice on it, and practice baitcasting over it! Your line guides won't free up, although some people walking by may think you're not dealing with a full deck! And THANKS for sharing an important point: you do NOT have to have a GLoomis/Calais rig to successfully baitcast. I'm not knocking the high end products, but that's all I seem to hear about on this site?

The biggest bass are going to be located in most ideal holding areas in winter to: 1) get the most food to come to them and 2) to expend as little energy as possible in accomplishing #1. Find the deepest holes near wingdams and or the dams themselves. You can try a casting a drop shot (I'm assuming you are fishing from shore and cannot verticle fish) or dead sticking a wacky rigged Senko. If the bottom isn't too snaggly, try a blade bait. Always cast up stream and fish your presentation back down; staying down stream of any target areas. That's what I'd do

Marty - That is correct, that big'un was taken thru the ice, back quite a few years ago though. I'm from MA; and last year my son won first place for the $300. prize, in an ice derby with a 3.7 lb. LM

Try rivers. Right now they are hot for smallmouth bass. And some have power plants on them, with a sizeable warm water discharges. These can get you into some fine fishing in winter, providing the main river doesn't freeze up too much. However, you definitely need a boat this time of the year! Shore fishing can be almost impossible, especially if the edgeline freezes out several yards. The ice edge will slice off your line like a razor blade. Wading may be a possiblility, but it's dangerous! Above all, fish SAFE.

I'm a Lowrance fan. The one I currently use is the X-135 black & white. Has all kinds of options and flexibility. Great resolution as well. Will do anything you need a sonar for.

Great post - Thanks! I'm one of those unfortunates, here in the Northeast, who must endure the long frozen water period. I envie you folks down South. To be able to fish open water in January has got to be a true joy in the life of any fisherperson. I'm not a hard water fisherman, so I have to sit in front of the boob tube, watch re-runs of the In'Fisherman and wear out some BPS & Cabela's catalogs. I will also clean & re-lub reels, re-arrange my tackle boxes (several times!) and read the fine posts here. "Anticipation!"

Thanks for the information Tokyo_Tony. I've been eyeing those pontoon rigs for small ponds and backwaters. Just never thought the price range between them would have been that great! It appears you can spend as much as an 8' jon boat, which to me seems like maybe a better option? And how do you go about choosing one? It seems that every option you put on one (from the linked chart) kicks the price several hundred bucks more! I've got to re-think this whole pontoon thing.