Crestliner2008

What are you asking for it?

Get yourself a slip-ring, fluke anchor, with a 3' - 4' length of chain. The chain will aid in setting the flukes in softer bottoms and the slip ring will get you out of trouble should you hang up.

Another vote here for Goo-Gone. Great stuff!

Spro 6" or 8" BBZ-1's. Haven't tried them yet myself, but expect to receive a couple in the next week or two. Saw a TV show a few weeks back with two guys killing the smallies with these bad boys! Just have to have them.

Are you sure you want to carpet it? Rhino lining is easier to apply and is a heck of lot easier to maintain. Just a thought.

I had a Garmin 140 about 6 years ago. It was the model with a 240 x 240 pixel rating. That was great! I converted it to a portable unit for use on rental boats (before I bought mine). Not sure of pixel rating of the 160, but if it's got at least 240 vertical, you're good to go. Less than that and I think you're might be a tad disappointed in the display. And if it is less than 240, I'd recommend you trade it up a notch. JMO!

I'll tell ya true folks, if I had the money right now, I'd buy one in heart beat! If they are half as good as the hype, they gotta be just the ticket for pond hoppin'.

Team9nine - No, you shouldn't. Because braid is very susceptible to being abraded by rocks and bottom debris. Which is why I use a fluoro leader, which is much more abrasion resisitant. However, that being said, for years I've used the Uni-to-Uni knot for my connections. Had some breaking issues. Now I've switched to the Albright knot. AND....this is most important....I apply a coating of "Zap-A-Gap" to the knot. This fills in the gaps and makes the knot flow through the guides much easier. For a full season now....no problems, no worries. Knots are a confidence thing. As long as it works, it's the greatest. When it fails one time....then you switch.

I've been using U-40 for years. Great product. And, as has already been mentioned, pre-clean your cork with MrClean's Magic Eraser first. Then apply liberally. Will keep you cork looking and lasting a lot longer than the dirty black cork handles you see on many rods these days. Preserves the cork as well. I haven't noticed any difference in feel myself.

I've recently switched from using back-to-back Uni knots to using the Albright. Seems to be much more secure. However, regardless of which you choose, get a small bottle of "Zap-A-Gap" glue from a hobby shop. A light coating on your connection knot will go a long way in maintaining the integrity.

Truly outstanding fish there Dwight! Congrats!

Some nice pictures indeed! Congrats!

Outstanding photos of your sonar screen! Wish I could afford an HDS. At my age, I'll just die with my ole' X-135! ;D

It appears to me that most of what you are trying to fish with, doesn't really come under the classification of "UL". I think you'd be better served with a quality "Light" action spinning rod instead. This class of rod action is very responsive, yet still has enough backbone to do what I think you are trying to do. UL rods can be used for catching anything. It's just that they may not be "the" right tool for the job. If you are dead set on UL, look at the B n' M rods. The Sam Heaton's Super Sensitive in 7' length would surely fit the bill and are quite impressive when it comes to landing the occasional LM caught while crappie fishing.

I'm with you on that GameCock. I use Ultra Steel weights for just about everything. They used to sell a small steel bead, which I prefer to glass. They have been impossible to find lately. Anybody know where to get some? I agree. Ultra Steel is less than 1/2 the cost. I refuse to spend that kind of money on weight. Try Netcraft for solid steel beads. I use to buy them there to make in-line bucktail spinners for big pike.

X2 - Great advice. At my age, there is no way I'm going to be twisting my body around to look at the trailer while backing. If I did, they'd have to pry me out of the truck once the boat was in the water! ;D Another thing that has helped me a lot with my rig. 5 years ago when I bought it new, I had them install white pole guide-ons on each side. Makes backing an empty trailer a lot easier. You won't easily loose sight of your trailer this way; especially when an empty trailer at sharply dipped ramp.

You could also try just putting the odds in your favor. By that I mean, arrive early (low light periods). Keep your silhouette low (stoop, don't walk in erect). Remember, if you see them....they see you as well. Sounds like you are fishing from the bank. That being the case, wear soft sneakers and take your time approaching the water's edge. Cast out way beyond the suspected location. Bring your finesse worm slowly into where the bass are staging. Use light pound test, fluorocarbon line. You have to be very patient and have plenty of time to spend waiting for them to generate an interest. The 4" Senko rules. As well as tubes weighted internally with light 1/8 oz. lead. And scent your baits (I like Megastrike). It's all about putting the odds in your favor. There is no way you can go out there and "get 'em" at this time of the year, if they're staging for the spawn. However, no bass alive can turn away from an easy meal. It's just not in it's genes. It's your job to "make 'em an offer they just cannot refuse!"

I agree, side-ways rigging does prove effective and has been touted by the In'Fisherman TV shows a lot lately. I've tried this only with the solid plastic bodies. But now that I've absorbed this tip with the re-barb method, I may try it on the hollow bellies as well! Here's what my rigging looks like (with the solid body plastics). I use a Slug-Go jig head....just because that's what I had! I've used various color patterns and sizes. Have yet to be as successful as with the hollow bellies though.

You will have that problem regardless of the sonar manufacturer/model you have. The vertical bars you see are the two signal cones (radiating from two transducers) bouncing against one another. I've set up 2 deep V's with dual sonars and both have to have one shut off, in order to read the other. And in reality, do you really the need to run two at a time anyway. You can only look at one! I do believe there is a device, whereby dual sonars can operate, but that usually involves "networking" the two units. More wires and connections; that allow two monitors, using one transducer. Call Lowrance for details. BTW, I've had both the X-135 and the X-125. Outstanding sonar units. Trying to learn an HSD-5 now!

The gas we have available to us (10% Ethanol) is pure crap and will gum up your carb in no time. Are you using an additive to your fuel? When's the last time you had it in the shop for a tune-up and/or carb cleaning?

Thanks muchly! Will be picking up some heat shrink tubing today.

Have never used them - yet - but I've got a bunch ordered from ***.com. His detailed write up and explanation concerning the Wisconsin Swim Jig design, convinced me.

If I'm fishing rivers this time of the year, then the hard jerks rule, along with that awful sucky lure, the Fat Ika. In lakes I'll start to probe the deeper water, in about 2 weeks, with the drop shot. In'Fisherman re-highlighted the use of in-line spinners this month. I'm going to dig around in my attic for some Mepps to try again.

Picked up a couple of packages of these soft swimbaits last year. Didn't use them a lot, but this season so far, I'm killing the LM on them. However, the problem I'm having is having them get demolished after one or two fish. I've been using the swimbait hooks with the screw wire at the eye. The bass are literally tearing this out. Replacing the bait after the first bite is hit or miss. It never seems to swim right after the first attack. Anyone else having this problem? These plastics are not that cheap either. I'm thinking of switching to the solid plastic bodies instead of the hollow.

I always use plain snaps....without the swivels. This gives most cranks and hard baits their intended action as well as making it easier for me to switch baits. NEVER use a snap swivel! Way too much hardware.