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Crestliner2008

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Everything posted by Crestliner2008

  1. Maybe it's because I'm older than dirt, but I seem to never have a bad day of fishing anymore, regardless of whether or not I'm catching fish. I love the sport, period. Doesn't matter if I get no fish or several anymore. There's always the swallows to watch, or a shallow swimming salamander. Sometimes I get squawked at by a pair of local swans or if I'm really lucky, an osprey might fly over. It's all good. Every outing is a learning experience, if you want it to be. If/when it becomes "not fun", then I'll take up golf (heaven forbid)! One more thing to think about. If you're tossing a heavy swimbait and not catching, try downsizing. If you're tossing a finesse rig, switch to a musky jitterbug! You might surprise yourself. The opportunities are endless to have fun out there.
  2. Whether or not you use circle hooks depends on your preference and style of fishing. I am a staunch believer in them. Some folks just cannot get "in tuned" with the hooks, until they've tried them a time or two. I've been using them, on off-shore structures for smallies, for over 8 seasons now, with nothing but good experiences. However, you have to have the right circle hook to begin with, then set it correctly. And it must be snell-tied to the business end of your line. Regardless of the brand of hook you choose, it must be an INLINE circle; not offset, as many are. I can't stress this enough, as I almost gave up on them the first season I used them. Then an old saltwater angler clued me in and set me on the right path. The particular hook I prefer using is the Gamakatsu #221311 in size 1/0 (smallest they make in this style). This hook is an inline circle; one of the few on the market today, if you don't get into the larger 4/0 - 10/0 styles, which are all inlines. I also crimp down the barb on all these hooks, as you do not need them to keep a fish buttoned up, once the hook sets. When I see my line or bobber move, I immediately just start to reel. You will lip hook the majority of the fish you take using this method. I've caught hundreds of smallies this way. And not only a few largemouth, rainbow trout, salmon and lakers as well. In a rare occurrence, one might be hooked a little deeper (usually caused by a fisherman new to using this technique), but is easily unhooked - unharmed - due to the hook not having a barb. Don't give up on them. They do work and are a boon to CRP fishermen the world over.
  3. When you see a big cruiser like this, try tossing a 7" Senko well ahead of the course it's swimming on. I think you will be plesantly surpirsed!
  4. Talk to your DNR. They will have the details on forage base, cover type, bass size potential and most importantly, depth contours. Focus on finding out what the forage base is and what kind of structure and cover that forage prefers. The bass will follow. The DNR may also be able to tell you if this lake is inhabited with only stunted bass. The state can also direct you to shocking studies of the lake as well. Local tackle shops should also be a resource you need to speak with.
  5. First off, there is no thermocline to be worried about if the deepest water is 12' as you say. Look for areas that have slight depth changes (2' or so), relating to structure (points or humps or coves, etc..). Notice I didn't say "cover", I said structure. Big difference, which a lot of folks overlook. Once you find these subtle changes in bottom contours, focus on cover associated with those changes, such as a stump or weed line edge, etc.. I'd go with a jig for starters. You might also try the drop shot if they are extra finicky. Senkos will work as well as any soft plastic presentation. If the structures are weed free, then try cranking them. Good Luck!
  6. Been using this set up for years, fishing for deep structure smallmouths:
  7. The Thousand Islands section of the St. Lawrence has some truly fabulous fishing. Smallmouth & largemouth, along with a slew of other species. Google it....there is a state park there that rents cabins, boats and has their own launch. Was real inexpensive several years ago to stay there.
  8. Why bother unscrewing the eye hooks? Just cut the darn hook eye with a pair of side cutters.
  9. Funny thing is that most folks know that will work. It's whether or not you have the courage to try it!
  10. Switch to MegaStrike.
  11. X2. Great option. Always look for something slightly different in the composition or shape of the pad groups. A slight indentation can mean a submerged tree trunk or some other form of preferred cover. Then again, if you get a blow up, have a back up rod rigged with a 7" Senko. That'll seal the deal the next time around.
  12. If the hooks are attached directly to eye screws, add a large split ring. That will enable the hooks to move more freely and get a better hook up. If they are already on split rings, go for the next size up trebles and larger split rings.
  13. Try open faced reels instead. I've fished with closed face spinning reels 50+ years ago. They were never very reliable back then. We had the Zebcos, Pfluegers and the Johnsons. The line pick-up was always hit or miss and the line got tangled under the guide pin plate quite often. Very frustrating, but we used them anyway. And we did pretty well with them too. The Johnson Century and bigger brother, the Citation, were the better closed faced reels of the day back then. Even those caused me problems, which is why I switched to open faced spinning reels. And, I've been using them ever since. Get yourself one of these and you won't look back. As far as where the reels are made, I wouldn't be too concerned. Reel manufacturing today is extremely competitive. They have to be <at least> good, in order to survive the demands of modern anglers. As far as modern closed faced reels go, I have no clue how they perform; I'd just recommend that you change to open faced spinning instead.
  14. Cottonwood and milk weed. Will continue until about the middle of June. I always target larger lakes during this time; much more cotton free water.
  15. I'd definitely recommend a guide. Winni is a BIG lake! And you need someone to show you the ropes up there. I've been fishing for 50 years and if I was going to Winni, I'd rent a guide! Will make your overall experience much more productive and pleasant.
  16. Tough for fishing in this kind of heat! You might try letting it sink completely to the bottom and kill it there. Then 2 o 3 sharp jerks up off the bottom and let it die again. Repeat. Tough to do, if you're a power fisherman, but extremely productive in the heat of summer.
  17. Thanks Glenn! Shaw is one of my favorite tourney fishermen.
  18. Hate to say this, but you just have to put your time in at trying to figure them out, on your particular body of water. For instance, a severe cold front can negatively impact bass behavior. But not necessarily so in a river system, as the water is always moving. And to a lesser extent in reservoirs where they release water from time to time. Fish whenever you can and take a note pad with you. (I use to use a small tape recorder.) Soon patterns will develop and you will know what the fish are going to do, on a particular body of water, at a given weather event. One thing for sure, there are no iron-clad rules in this game (which is why I love it so!).
  19. X2.
  20. Gamakatsu makes their Oct-Inline circle hook. Would be an excellent application with the fluke. Off-set circles are not nearly as effective in minimizing deep hooking.
  21. I've been killing the smallies on the Shadilicious 5.5" hollow bellies. Using a 1/4 oz. 5/0 swimbait hooks works just fine. Remember, with these hollow bellies, S-L-O-W is better! You want it moving just enough to get action in the center of the bait. And keep it close to the bottom as well.
  22. Contact your Dept. of Natural Resources. They can fill you in.
  23. Fish them on a 1/8 oz. jig head....slow lift & fall retrieve. Great for smallies or walleye! Especially the 5".
  24. I've been using U-40 cork seal for many years. A thin coat of it at the start of the season will last all year long. At the end of each season, I use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean the cork. Then I re-seal with a light coat of U-40. Never tacky or slick. Always a good feeling and it suppose to "preserve" the cork as well. BTW, Netcraft carries it. Netcraft
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