Crestliner2008

Don't worry...his first (of many) "skunks" are ready to pounce!

Neither does the plethora of braids out there, other than 832. I'm not criticizing...just curious is all. I don't see the benefit of 832, other than crankbait fishing and/or plastics & jigs. Whatever you have confidence in will work for you.

"One method Pete" = path to failure. Enough said.

Welcome Back! Hope your season is going well.

I've had some outstanding results with a similar bait, the Sammy, when fished over deep, off-shore structures for smallies. And yep....right smack in the middle of the day too! You just never know with fish. Best not to count anything out at any time.

I'm curious grimlin, why do you use 832 for topwater fishing? That line was specifically designed to sink I thought?

Roadwarrier gave you a great response. I've got two rigs, one spinning and one baitcaster, that have had the same 30# test PowerPro on them for 3 seasons now. I snip off a foot or two maybe twice a season and put on a 4' - 5' section of 20# test fluorocarbon leader. They just keep on ticking!

"What do I carry"? A Ruger SP-101, tucked IWB holster. For fishing, it would depend on what I was going after and what body of water I'm looking at. There are some great general information topics in the articles posted on the start of the forum.

For what purpose? Species, cover, water clarity? Lines are designed <usually> for very specific purposes. If you are looking for a general line for a spinning reel, I'd opt for Trilene XL in either 6# or 8# tests. Baitcasting, go for XT in 12# - 15# tests. All pretty reasonably priced.

Last week Dick's had all their Senkos (originals) on sale for 2 pks./$10.00. That's decent.

O.K....let's try this one: My link

Let's try this one then: My link What am I doing wrong?????

I'm a big fan of the R.I. Sweat Beavers, but in flipping through some websites, I found these bad boys: Creepies

Very interesting thread. I enjoy following large smallie on their deep, off-shore structures this time of the year. Although, due to family stuff going on, I haven't had much opportunity to engage in it. Drop shotting will definitely get you into the big smallies; if you can find bait on those deeper structures. I've also been having some decent luck with the largemouths on the edges of weedpatches up shallow.

I just ordered a spool of the 10# Nanofil from BPS. I'll let you know how it performs on a Med-Hvy spinning rig. I also wanted to try the 2# test for my UL crappie rod, but BPS doesn't carry it. Will have to "roadtrip" down to Cabelas in Hartford for it in a couple of weeks or so.

You cannot go too far wrong with the inexpensive Spro BBZ-1 Jr. at about 6". This bait is an excellent starter and will catch almost anything. I have the perch pattern in slow sink. But I would prefer the fast sink in this model. On a pause, this bait turns around to face a follower. Incredible action that seals the deal!

The 3" Senko is a dynamite drop shot bait. Especially fished wacky style, when the larger bass go deep this time of the year. I use a rootbeer orange w/green flake color (not sure what number that is off hand) to resemble the small perch forage that frequent depths >25' around here. I only use a Gamakatsu drop shot hook, in size #2, which works very well for all my drop shotting. Since these baits are so small (thin, that is, compared to a standard 5" Senko), I'd suggest using a small section of clear, heat shrink tubing around the middle for hooking them wacky style. This will make the baits last for several large bass before having to be replaced. Also try the 3" Sluggo nose hooked. These baits have a wounded baitfish action that just cannot be beat!

Looks like an excellent rigging technique. However, it appears that you are still hooking the body of the worm. Very few plastics - expecially Senkos - can withstand that kind of use for more than one or two fish. This rigging sould be ideal for something like the Zoom "Trick Worms". Thanks for posting.

No, Goodys are not the same as "O" rings. Here's a link to a previous post: My Way

Shopping around, the highest I could find is 12# test in only one color, "Cool Mist". If it becomes popular, I'm sure they will expand the line up!

It is very true that once the water warms and the spawning is complete, that <large> smallies, in a large reservoir or lake, do move deep. The reason for this is food. They follow the primary forage in the system, such as alewives, smelt or perch. I search deep water structures (25' - 40') and only look for large bait balls. Once I find them, I anchor and work the area, using a drop shot, Senko, or swimbaits. This approach works well for me. If you find bait, on a deep ridge or hump, you can be sure they are moving. This is critical to know for your mind-set. Trying to follow moving bait around with your trolling motor puts you at a distinct disadvantage. First of all, you are bombarding the bait - and bass - with your electronic signals. Trust me, it's conditioned reflex for the bass to stop feeding. Not good. Secondly, you may be fishing between the schools of bait a higher percentage of your time and not ever know it! In a situation where the bait is running freely along deep water structures, it's a much better approach for you to anchor and let the fish come to you. JMO.

I use to do a lot of trolling for smallies and walleye in our Ct. River, here in MA. Quite successfully too. Used mainly crankbaits and/or bait with a Gapan Baitwalker rig, or Wolf River rig. I've always done better trolling with the current as apposed to against. JMO.

I use the Gamakatsu Wide Gap Finesse Weedless hook a lot when wacky rigging in dense vegetation. I use the 1/0 size and have not had the problem you are experiencing. I would prefer to use an inline circle hook for most of my wacky rigging, but in some cases you just have to have some sort of weedguard protection. I'm using a light action, 7' rod with 6# test Fireline Crystal as the main line with an 8# test fluorocarbon leader. Very little stretch. Hook sets are very positive, even with just a reel down action. I land more than 90% of my takes. Are you using thick worms (i.e.: Senkos) and are you hooking the worms directly, vs. using a band of some sort? I use an elastic called a Goody, which was recommended to me by a Japanese fishing friend many years ago. Using these bands, you hook the band and not the worm. Keeps the hook out of the worm and increases the gap significantly. Just a thought.

Berkley has come out with a new Dyneema based, fine diameter line for UL, Light and medium applications. Has anyone tried it yet? It is called "Nanofil" and it's not the same as their heat fused Fireline, but instead, a single, round filament. Extra casting distances and strength are it's earmarks. Should be great in 2# test for panfishing or 8# test (16# test break!) for bass & walleye.....and more. Here's a link to an interesting product test: Gear Review Here is an interesting video from Gander Mountain: Nanofil Video I'm definitely going to pick some of this line up. Probably in the 2# & 8# test ratings. I'll let you know how I fair with it!

Hey Josh, THANK YOU for your service! It'll be over before you know it. BTW, can't you go fishing for "sand sharks" there?