Crestliner2008

Great post indeed! Thank you! I always rely on the plain ole' Texas rig with a 7" worm of one kind or another. When all else fails, it can usually be counted upon to save the day. When did you all first "discover" this rigging? My baptism accured after Al Lindners "Big Book of Fishing", back in the early 70's. I still have that tattered paperback somewhere!

I've never used a weight for dropping a Senko down for smallies, even over 45'. They sink pretty fast all on their own. And actually, their seductive, slow wiggle as they fall can produce a lot of strikes from suspended fish, throughout the water column. Not just talking about smallies either. Salmon, lakers and rainbow trout love this presentation as well. My Dad always said, "Patience is the best sinker". He was a pretty good fisherman.

Just a suggestion, but if you can see them, they certainly can see you! I would back way off, let them settle down, then toss a soft plastic offering up onto the bank where the log comes in, or upstream from the log. Let it drift down into them. I would use a light spinning rig, 6# test braid with 6# test fluoro leader and a #1/0 EWG worm hook. I don't really care what plastic you use, but I wouldn't use weight to get it down, so make your selection accordingly. (Hard to beat a 4" Senko.) JMO.

Well, opinions vary quite a bit on any type of bait you pick up. I personally like the Senko as is. I don't use a bait caster with it though. My rod is a medium spinning rig with 10 lb. braid and an 8 lb. fluoro leader. I use a 3/0 size EWG hook, or rig them wacky. But use whatever gives you the most confidence. That's the key.

Interesting reply. I've gone through 2 pkgs. of the 5" Magic Shads with nothing to show for it. I keep casting off the tails! Using a lightly weighted swimbait hook (screw type). Not even a follow mind you! I do love the action though. I still have a rod rigged with it, being an optimistic sort of guy.

First of all, which species of fish are you after? Then what is the water clarity like? What is the forage base? Bottom structure? And any other information you can give. A depth map alone without the above details is useless.

Try a Chatterbait as a search tool. Then switch to a Fat Ika after you locate them.

Thanks, but those are the 5" size, I'm looking for the smaller version for drop shotting.

I like the 5" Strike King Shadilicious. Have taken a lot of smallies with this bait rigged on a 1/4 oz. swimbait hook. And LM love them in stained/weedy water as well.

I use the Doug Hannon approach. When the worm touches down, I start my retrieve with a serious of hops or twitches as everyone does, continually raising the rod tip. However, before reeling down, I hold at 11 o'clock and wait to feel something. Then I reel down and start moving the worm again, or set the hook! Keeping the rod high at the end of whatever you're doing with it, has dramatically increased the number of "felt" takes for me. Just a thought.

Years ago I got ahold of a bunch of Mann's "Draggin'" finesse worms. They are spear shaped with the tail very sharp and thin. Any twitch sends them into a frenzy of movement. One of my most productive worms. My supply is getting rather low. Anyone know of a source where I can get more? These are really fabulous drop shot worms! Love to get some more.

Ditto to the sentiments here! I love our oxbow for both diversity of species and productivity. I've caught LM, SM, pike, pickeral, walleye, and catfish, not to mention the outstanding perch and panfish fishing available (especially in the fall!). As long as water is flowing in and flowing out, I see no reason to avoid any oxbow lake.

A couple of months ago, In'Fisherman ran an article on using Countdown Rapalas for walleye. With all the high, muddy, cool water around us right now, I figured I'd give them a fling, just for the heck of it. I clipped on a #5 gold model. I wasn't targeting crappie by the way, just want to get a bit familiar with this presentation. I cast it out, counted it down to 8 or 9 (over 15' of water near a dam), then started a slow lift & drop retrieve. You can really feel the vibes when you lift! Guess the crappie liked it too. Got 7 good size crappie near the dam in no time! What I especially liked about this presentation is that, unlike blade baits (i.e.: Silver Buddys) which produce similar vibes, you can keep these in the strike zone longer and maintain a slow retrieve. Has anyone ever tried these things for crappie, walleye or bass? If not, it may be worth your time.

I rig it backwards all the time. And I start with My preference with the "Big IKA" vs. the Fat IKA, if I'm fishing LM. The reverse is true if I'm fishing smallies. Color? Don't mean nothing. It's the attitude and subtle action of these fabulous baits that keeps my rod bending.

Old fart here! Only reason is that it flat works! I've said right along that a lot of these new fangled "natural" patterns (photo finishes, etc.) in crankbaits is a bunch of bunk. A bass by it's nature is drawn to an easy meal. Don't think it could survive if it was counting the gill covers!

Keep one thing in mind however, 90% of the fish are in 10% of the water. If a particular structure is attractive to a species of fish, chances are it's going to hold true for a very long time; years even. Unless that structure changes. I do quite a bit of deep, off-shore structure fishing for smallies. I have a handheld GPS with 37 waypoints on it. I have repeatedly used the "milk run" to keep my rod bent, year after year. Some do fail occasionally, but not often. Do I try new spots? Yes, I make it a point to try one or two more spots every time out. That's why my waypoint log keeps growing!

X2 - I totally agree. Don't waste your time "chasing ghost"!

BTW, for those of you interested in pursuing a log, bring a small pocket tape recorder with you. Helps tremendously with the details after you get home, have dinner, shower and settle in to record your entries.

Years ago when I first started bass fishing, I kept a pretty detailed log book. Even included pictures! Then, in years following, whenever I tried to replicate fishing conditions by revisiting the place, time and conditions, from the previous year; I quickly figured out that nothing in fishing can be counted on to repeat itself! Weather & water condition vary considerably, as well as the structures your fishing. Consequently, I gave up on the logs as being non-value added. They did teach me the basics to start with. Sort of like repeating the multiplication tables over and over again in school (do they do that anymore?). But after many, many years of fishing repetition, you do things rather automatically anyway, like driving a car. I would never discourage anyone from keeping logs however; they make for some interesting reading during the winter time.

Bluebasser is spot on. With in-line circle hooks, the point is inline with the eye of the hook - no offset. These offset style circle hooks will have a tendency to catch deeper in the mouth than the true in-line variety. This is a benefit for catfishermen and some salt water species as well. But not for bass. Go with the in-line variety. As far as "setting" the circle hook goes, all you do is start reeling them in! These hooks will set themselves. There is no need (and an actual detriment) for any kind of "hook set" with circle hooks. 9/10, if you jerk, you loose the fish. This is where the circle got it's undeserved reputation for loosing fish. The actual design is about as perfect as anything you can ask for in a bass hook. JMO!

I've used circle hooks mostly when slip bobber fishing for smallies over deep structures. And for a lot of years. Have never experienced a significant problem with hook-ups. I even crimp down the barbs (no need for them). A quality in-line circle will do you right. They should be equally as effective for LM. For sure, the mortality rate will go way down.

It would depend on the action of the rod you are using. If it's too stiff, then yes, you'll tear out hooks. Braid has no stretch. Fluoro has some, but not as much (supposedly) as mono. You might find you'll be better off with a mono leader instead. You'll just have to try out different scenarios for yourself.

Had to be well over 2 lbs.! Contrats!

Very true indeed. I've been playing with the new Nanofil in 2# test for crappie. And in this case, the "no-stretch" aspect is very beneficial to detect finicky biters like crappie and big yellow perch. Probably not so much a big consideration with big 'gills or bass though. And this attribute could even be detrimental with some presentation (i.e.: crankbaiting). I am finding out that everything is a compromise however and no one product is best for everyone. The way I look at it, try a little bit of everything and settle on what works best for you.

Gotta be the "Gulp" variety. Which is a good reason not to use that crap. There ain't nothing you can catch on Gulp, that I can't catch using something more reliable and less costly.