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The key to the question. The remote/PD motors. My experience was BAD. The steering is controlled by servo. Not cable. The steering is very jerky. And unsafe. I once bent down to undo the ancher rope. My dog stepped on the power switch and i cut my hand on the prop. This was done in the stow position. MK has made updates to the new terova model. MK exchanged mine. And i went back to the cable steer model. Please dont by a PD> Unless you are going to put it on a pleasue craft.

Read my topic fish dying in live well. I am not sure what my problem is. But i use a oxygenator and will be removing it. I am going back to the basics. It is a current post. Sorry for the loss. I know how it feels.

I installed the cabala rope light in my rod locker. Plenty of light. It is not the color you want. But install was easy. I will add. they dont give you enough clips to anchor to support the rope lighting. If you run into this... You can use silicone. Smootz some on the boat. And then tape the rope fast, untill dry. I think i may have just made up a word there. Works great for this aplication and other install projects.

I manage and have bodyshop experience. Yes a high build primer will cover small marks. Fiberglass is always a challenge. Due to they flex. Cracks etc. will come back in a short amount of time. The best way to repair is resin or gelcoating. You will be OK w/ chips but not stress cracks.

Last night i took a DC meter and placed the positive end. To the Hull/frame and the negative to the neg. post on the CRANK battery. The meter showed 0 voltage. When i turned on all my rocker switches (3) It read a 1/4 of a volt. This would include the pumps. The voltage was get stronger .5 on each switch. Totaling .15 Then i did the same thing to my 12-24 trolling batteries. It read 2-2.5 volts. This would mean that the hull is constantly charged w/ voltage. Low voltage in deed. If you add water to that, it may increase and be passed to the fish thru the water. Now how much voltage can a smallie handle i dont know. I an still confused about the fish finders locking up. Because they use Direct ground to the crank battery. This week end i am going to remove my trolling batteries, and allot of BS to pull my supply wires out. And give them a good inspection. I still find it hard to belive that i have electrical gremmlins. But first things first. There should be no voltage going to any part of the hull. What's every one think of the latest update? Hopefully i figure this kill out. You never know when someone in youre club. Or friend may experience the same thing. At least save a marriage. Last night i said, if i cant figure it out. I am going to the bank again. She just looked @ me. Because the boat is an only a 1 yr. old. Thanks, everyone.

I forgot to add. Thinking it was a toxic from the aluminum. I ran the aerotor pump on manual during Sundays tornament. This was after i lost fish in the a.m.. Thinking that filling and flushing would purge anything out. I seem to loose fish just as quick if not quicker. Could a pump be the cause? I am grasping here. I am at a total loss on what to do. It is very concerning if it is an electrical source. The boat blows no fuses. And the only electrical concern was the fish finders. But that was confusing because. I ran the power directly to the crank battery.... The FF was the only device used on that supply WIRE, Of course there other pulling from the crank, but i have a separate dedicated just for the Finder.

Ok, Raul. Say i do have an electrical issue. And say that the alumunum floor/rails are putting current into the live well thru the fastening points of the LW to the floor. If i install a plastic live well liner. What if any chance of electrical source could get thru the liner? I enjoy the boat, other then the live well issue. If i told my dealer about the fish dying i bet he would say i am nuts.

It's a 25 gallon live well. I clean it and then flush it several times With clean water w/ all the pumps running. Then i leave it in the sun for a day with the lid open. And the tubes etc. laid out to dry. And lastly then while i fish i use the river water to purge any solvents. I really am starting to wonder if there is electrical current getting into it. The tank is fastened to the aluminum floor/ rails with screws. Earlier this year i went thru 3 lowrance fish finders. The screen would just feeze. Very Odd because i run the power direct from the crank battery. Then i switched brands using the same feed. And no problems. This also made no sense.

I wonder how i could test for an electrical current? IN the Water. Last night in frustration the entire unit was removed. I can still bench test though.

Interesting. I fish the susquahanna river in PA. Yesterday i saw very little running time. Mostly drifts due to lower water levels. I believe i am going to replace the live well w/ a plastic liner. Or tank. It just frustrates me not knowing the answer.

I have a 07 aluminum boat w/ an aluminum live well. 20-25 gallon. 1st owner. and i never stored anything in the well. I have lost fish every time in it. From the fastest kill (15 minutes) to the slowest (4.0 hours). I am speaking of SM bass. I have bleached it 4 times. Each time it gets better. But after 8 outings i am done wasting fish. I am convinced that it is something toxic in the metal or welds. What are youre thoughts? Heres more info. The water temp is the same. I have used frozen bottles of ice. And have a temp. probe in the live well linked to my humminbird. I have used fish release chemicals to help. I have a recirc. pump I have a an oxyenator I have an fresh water aerator. This past week end i ran it none stop flooding the live well to keep purging fresh water ino it. I called the boat manufacture and of course no complaints from anyone else.