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It works, but then again so most other things...

4.5 will work, 4.0 maybe (assuming Shimano's specs are correct). I would get the 4.5, and build up the blank if need be and run that until the original comes in.

40 braid or 15 BG will work for either.

The first rule of spoon club is you don't talk about spoon club. From tiny shad and trout spoon to massive striped bass trolling spoons, and everything in between.

Nope. On light line treble applications I don't (or barely) set the hook, and on single hook baits drag is locked down.

"keep your friends close, and your enemies closer" applies to things sticking up from the boat.

Because there are several factors with nuances with tight tolerances that need to be right to be successful. In the hands of someone who knows how, spoons (of all types) are deadly both casting and trolling, or a tangled mess...

When I get a solid thunk at the end of a spinnerbait, and it doesn't come tight, it's usually a case of the fish hitting the blades aggressively or turning away at the last moment. I've had both, blades pulled off, and hooked bass on the side.

spinnerbait blades displace water, move water, and generate vibrations, 3 different but related interactions, and not simple or intuitive.

I've really warmed up to the 110 and 75, I did have to make a couple of mods for my liking. The 90 is junk, and the others meh at best.

Procyon spinning, Aird-X BC.

Zero organization involved, they are leaning up against the wall in 3 garages, and 2 spare bed rooms.

I own probably 300 setups (all types, salt and fresh, not just bass) and fish with the same 2-6 of each type most years, so yeah, I own too many....

UV Speed worm is killer, But if I had just one, it would be a big Lizard. Fished as is, or customized with scissors, it can be anything from a creature to a chubby finesse cut tail.

Any material will be “stiffer” as it’s cross section increases, but not “denser” that is a constant assuming the same material.

Yeah, that will work. I'd rig it so the eye bulge thing would ride below the hook so that part of the squid acts as a keel, and resists spinning at higher speeds, but should be ok as is. I use small salt water and salmon trolling skirts in a similar fashion.

Both. There are times when matching forage is key, and others when something that looks and acts like nothing that lives in or near the water is the way to go.

Since you said you won't mind, total BS. Fish aren't people, and if they ever figured how to use a shotgun, we'd be in trouble...

When the line and leader are the same, or very close in diameter, I go with the uni-uni. For lines of different diameters, I'll go with the modified albright, FG, or other similar knots where the thinner line wraps.

Original #9 rapala (silver blue back) was one of my first lures. I found it in a tree. I'm pretty sure I can fill my bathtub and catch a couple with it. It shines on calm days in clear water with light line, I usually go with 6-8 lb XL. The trick is not to over work it. The older ones are better in my opinion, but some of the first Irish ones were not great. That being said, there are times when a larger, heavier more aggressive minnow is the way to go.

The Revo part...

My first conventional salt water reel was a Penn 77, and I literally have the scars to prove it...

Fried porgies are delicious, and not hard to catch. The tackle can vary quite a bit depending on what and where you are doing it. Plan on bottom fishing with 3 -8 oz, and throwing (or trolling) 4-6 ozs for striped bass, bluefish, black fish, sea bass, fluke, and the occasional other as well.

I can't think of anything I've caught that I haven't used for bait at one time or another.

Circle hooks are made in some smaller sizes, but small circle hooks for small fish really doesn't make sense.