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The last 3 months at the assisted living facility (Pleasant Meadows ) I have made great progress where I have under gone intensive one-on-one and group therapy sessions daily which has worked wonders warding off the bait monkey ... Unbeknownst to me involved a final test celebration cake and buried inside were a burner phone , a catalog of new arrivals from TW and a 15% off coupon ... In less than 10 minutes I racked up over $1,400 with TW and that was just for soft plastics !! ... I have now been transferred to: Secondary Point Maximum Security Prison for repeat bait monkey offenders where I have been given a six month sentence to think about my transgressions - the bait monkey continues to be crafty and oh so powerful !!

Appreciate the review @jmcarriere! I'm a huge fan of honest user reviews. I never reviewed Siebert stuff, but I've recommended them a few times. Here's an abbreviated review of live test last week:

Smoked mac & cheese for dinner...

Yesterday i recieved my first order of jigs from@Siebert Outdoors I ordered a dredge pack with the brush head in both 3/8 and 1/2 plus one additional color in each size. Let me just say that after just the initial handling i can tell right away that his jigs are of a high quality even the skirt feels of a higher quality, i love that his weedguard is not as stiff as off the shelf jigs amd that he leaves them long for us to trim as we like. Also i was a little worried because as per Mike the owner deep throat hook is a lighter wire hook well let me say this it is the same guage wire as my previous brands round bend hook. I do need to learn to thread my trailer on with out the hook poing coming out a little after the first bend.

Back at it today, had some sleet and lots of wind but overcast and 65 degree water. The bottom fish was healthy and fought like crazy, had to backreel a whole bunch. It came in just shy of 21". The Top fish was in rough shape and barely fought. We lost a few more of the same ilk

To the OP, if all nylon/copoly makes your fishing life happy, more power to you. As someone mentioned, there was a time when we all fished that way since modern braids and fluoro weren't available, yet we still caught fish. To those doubting the sensitivity advantage of fluoro over nylons...your loss

I think I lost one this year .

3-4 a year, but I fish an extremely rocky lake and they hang up something bad. Actually lost a plug knocker too.

I love guys like you...any time my wife starts thinking I spend too much on fishing...I find some pictures like this and show them to her... That's usually worth several months of no questions...

And sometimes a 4lb green one follows in a little brown one. This largemouth followed for long enough for me to get my phone out and take a picture. Then she hung out by the boat for 30 seconds while the smallmouth wasn't even in the water! Note the Jerkbait!

I believe that is a Jackall Gantarel Jr. in the Spawn Gill color. You see, I was around the corner from you and had just made a cast when I noticed you eyeballing my glide bait. You didn't grab it, but later on I caught a 5 year old child and a Great Blue Heron using the same technique.

Good day coyote hunting. Beautiful morning for it Saturday, our 1st cold morning, (right at freezing) and the wind wasn't howling. Screaming till the coyotes come running is an awesome adrenaline rush. All three of these dogs was dirt checked at about 150-180 yards. My buddy was using a 22-250. and I was using my 25-06 with 75 grn vmax ballistic tips. If someone says they need drugs for a high tell them to take up bass fishing and predator hunting. Anyone else call coyotes?

I only lose 2-3 a year, and most of those are to pleasure boaters running over my line on a long cast. I would lose a lot more if I didn't use an 18' extendable pole style lure retriever though.

That's just my spare plastics I haven't unloaded the boxes in the boat in that picture.

Same one I got, have lost very few deep diving lures. I put mine on the end of a dog lease.

I think a jig/worm rod needs to be the most sensitive. I will add a 3rd glx to the quiver this winter If you want it to be more universal look to the GLX MBR 's

Only a couple as I have been known to strip down and swim for my favorites. Last Summer I was lucky. I swam for one and the first after I dried off, I caught a new PB

Almost never with a plug knocker. Only baits I lose anymore are soft plastics and jigs

Never, but I dont throw them either

Maybe 1 or 2 a season, if that. The Plug Knocker is your friend. If I didn't use a trace of wire leader, I'd most likely lose half the baits I throw - especially the $$$ ones. A-Jay

I was sitting in my office working today when I heard a weird sounding boat coming up the lake. I'm not sure where you mount the trolling motor.

Good eye! It is indeed. Beautiful park. Giant carp in there. Thanks for the compliment, but no ideas were my own. I read 100s of forums and watched 100s of youtube videos of guys with different ideas. I guess my part was picking and choosing how to combine what i read and apply it to my boat. But, I literally did not own one powertool prior to this project. So...to me, having no idea what i was getting myself into seems pretty accurate. But, i am stubborn. I think that helped with making it look and work like a boat. Thanks all, forgot to mention boat specifics. The boat is a 1444 jon boat (14 feet - 44 inches at the hull). While it was wobbly like a 14 foot jon boat, it was actually a lot more stable than i anticipated. I could stand with another grown man in the back and never worried about falling in. I used 3/4 inch plywood surface. I knew it was on the heavier side, but it adds additional stability and will last longer. Some carpet has different colors, but when i ran out and reordered more, the new (exact carpet mind you) was still slightly different color. I still like the way it patterns out. I have 2 batteries inside with a battery switch. My aerator system, I added a timer to it which is pretty awesome. I also added a recirculator, emptying, automatic livewell switch. I also added a 4 gang marine switch panel for navigation lights, bilge, 12 volt system, and USB port. Fuse box is stored near batteries. I have a 25 hp motor i can put on the back which will even out the weight distribution. I can also turn it into an electric only boat if needed. Must say, the possibilities of creating your own boat made a lot of it fun. Oh, and my favorite, it has an 8 foot 6 inch carpeted rod locker storage that holds 12 feet of a power pole (8 and 4) so i can mount it inside it's bracket on the back and hold myself in place. Pretty excited to put it all to use.

don't worry, i think st croix was on the exclusion list....

Technically all single filament lines are "mono" meaning single filament or 1 strand,i.e.; "monofilament" line. Braid is multiple filaments, each strand made up of several filaments then each strand is spooled onto a spindle or a single spindle can have more then 1 strand, the spindle attached to a carrier that can also multiple spindles, usually 4 carriers to 8 carriers. Braid is made up of hundreds of tiny filaments twisted and braided into a line. To distinguish between monofilament lines the line companies started marking Nylon line as monofilament and Nylon line with another polymer like polyester or another type of Nylon blended as copolymer line. Easy to keep seperate until fluorocarbon line hits the market. FC is more expensive to make so it needs it's own identity although it is a monofilament line made from a polymer. In the 80's every line maker offered copolymer line, Stren, Trilene, Ande, Maxima, P-Line with names like Silver a Thread, Ultra Green, CXX, etc. The copolymer blends offered softer, harder, stronger monofilament line as advertisements stated. Softer line with less memory being promoted for spinning reels, harder more abrasion resistant for baitcasting reels, etc, etc. What to do with FC blended line or blended copolymer line with FC co extruded jackets? FC was brittle with poor knot strength and expensive to make so the line folks started to blend FC with polyuerathane or polyester like they did with Nylon and gave the blends new names or called it 100% FC, all marketed as FC line. Yo-Zuri comes out with the 1st co-extruded Line with copolymer core and FC jacket marketing this new line type as "Hybrid" because it is a hybrid monofilament line. Yo-Zuri coextrusion process ends up with a larger diameter line and they realize the marketing advantage of under rating the line label strength to eliminate the problem plaguing the FC line market, poor knot strength and it works. Bass anglers adopt the hybrid as thick line vs thin line. Sorry for the long winded rant. Tom

Avoid a steady retrieval throughout the entire cast. Incorporate variety to pick up on the pattern for that particular mode. Close the sale! Mix it up by experimenting with these two scenarios: Kastmaster spoons with a steady to stop and go retrieval draw them in then kill it right when they are getting close to let it flutter down. They will let you know within a couple of chasers if this is the ticket other scenario- start with your retrieval (whatever was working for you originally to initiate the Chase) then burn or speed up your lures with rapid fire twitches of your rod tip to simulate prey knowing it’s being agggeesively pursued. Think of a gazelle being chased by a cheetah (run for your life with misdirected dodges when something is on its arse) when streamer fishing wih with a fly fishing guide, he would YELL at me to never stop stripping my line and twitching my rod tip when a Brownie would pursue the fly. The moment I did that, the fish would turn away 180

This is where I was headed, if they are stockies. The dough even works on wild fish as well. You can use a float rig, if there's current or a slip shot rig if it's still water. The dough kind of floats. Use just enough to cover the hook. I use little Raven hooks, #10 or 12. These have worked on steelhead over 15 lbs.

First ever fish on a glide bait. Skinny fella but still pretty awesome.

That indicates a very aggressive and active feeding pattern.

Did winter come early in Alabama?

Hello, been a lurker for some time. Have learned quite a bit and had some enjoyable reading. I am from and currently live in eastern ky. Grew up bass fishing, got away from it for several years, found my way back a few years ago. Fish a lot of local tournaments. Looking forward to the knowledge I know I'll gain and possibly share some of my own on here!

I don’t think anyone is forcing you to buy expensive baits or gear. You are more than welcome to turn up rocks for worms or you can buy a $30 lure. Do what you are comfortable with given your own means. This goes for all ages, employed or not. The important part with fishing is to enjoy what you are doing, no matter how you choose to do it.

Maybe you can find something here: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/pflueger-parts-c-186372.html

Simple...I completely miss-read your post...Getting old isn't for the faint of heart...

One last tip. Strongly recommend using #4 fluoro

I just started my own experiment a month ago replacing fluorocarbon mainline with mono. I was inspired by a post from @WRB. I fish a shallow rocky river by wading or from shore 99% of the time and really only use 2 rods. A ML spinning rod and a M baitcasting rod. The spinning rod has 10# braid and a leader of leftover mainline from the baitcaster (10# fluorocarbon). I'm happy with this and am not switching from braid, though the leader material may change. I have always used 10# fluorocarbon on the baitcasting rod and just experimented with various brands. While all the lines I've tried handled pretty well (especially with KVD Line & Lure conditioner) I go through a spool fairly quickly because if I feel a nick in the line I retie. And if I backlash and then feel a kink in the line I get paranoid and strip line until the kink is gone and retie. My small reel only holds 100 yards of 10# line and it goes quick. So I thought what if I could find a line that handled/casted better than fluoro, was more abrasion resistant than fluoro, and was as sensitive as fluoro for bottom contact? Is fluoro really more sensitive or am I just buying into marketing hype? Thus my experiment. Lots of rocks and snags in my river so abrasion resistance is easy to test. For sensitivity I'm throwing a 3/16 ounce finesse jig, the same jig I've been using for the past couple years. I'm very familiar with how it "feels" on the bottom. First line I tried was 10# Spiderwire Ultimate Mono because of some threads on BR. Casting/handling was great, sensitivity was not good compared to fluoro, abrasion resistance was TERRIBLE! Second line I tried was 8# Berkley Trilene XL Armor Coated. I picked 8# because it was about the same diameter as the 10# fluoro and the 10# Spiderwire. It handled well and was more abrasion resistant than the Spiderwire, though still not great. And sensitivity compared to fluoro was still very disappointing. Sigh, maybe mono just isn't the answer for me! Latest line I tried is 10# Berkley Trilene XL Armor Coated. It's thicker than I usually use, but still handled/casted well. Noticeably more abrasion resistant than the other two monos or fluoro I've tried. And slightly more sensitive than the other two monos, but still night/day difference compared to the sensitivity of fluorocarbon. So (at least for me) it seems the hype of fluorocarbon being more sensitive than mono is true. I also started experimenting with holding the rod differently so I could run the line over my index finger which I normally don't do. Jury is still out on whether I can get used to this or not. I'm going to keep using the 10# Armor Coated until it's gone, don't know what I'm going to do after that. I need good handling, abrasion resistance, sensitivity, cost effectiveness. Keep using it? Try Berkley Iron Silk? Try some kind of hybrid line? Just go back to fluoro? Bite the bullet and buy Tatsu? No idea, but it's all part of the fun.

I know i sound like a broken record, but what rod/line/drag setting were you using? Those hooks just don't fail unless used with to heavy of gear, unless the strength is compromised in some way (rust and simply being thrown into a dock to hard to many times are common issues). I don't personally use zman heads anymore, I started pouring my own on #4 and #2 owner lite wire hooks to save money and get a better jighead.

Another thing to try is a small spinnerbait with little blades and retrieve it as fast as you can .

try tipping your lure with a small piece of worm- often this will get the followers to commit.

Sometimes hatchery fish won’t commit to a lure but they chase it try power bait doe that will catch them for sure.

Soft plastic. Ned, tube, lizard. Treat it like bed fishing

cold pizza all the way!!

The first thing I do when I get a new pack of these is break the keeper off with a pair of pliers. I always superglue my bait to the head anyways so the keeper just gets in the way and fouls the bait.

I've had Cavitron's last me 30+ fish, and I've had some last me 3 fish before. The pike and bowfin can destroy a buzzbait in no time. The same can be said about boat flipping 4+ pound bass with them. For the most part though, my Cavitron's usually last me quite a few fish.

Sometimes you can tip a spoon or spinner with a tiny piece of live or scented bait

While I don't disagree with you, a bad ground will normally affect 1 light, because that ground was compromised, or all the lights because of a bad ground either on the trailer or tow vehicle. Sounds to me like a something else is going on. Something I do a couple times a year is spray electrical contact cleaner into the 7 pin on the truck and 7 to 5 adapter, and wire brush the 5 pin on the trailer.

N Florida Mike, I will be heading down past or even through Jacksonville, I might just take you up on your offer if your going to be around. I really appreciate you guy's offering help to get on the water and advice where you can, it's very cool...

Know your boat. Learn how to vary the throttle for conditions. A straight line may not be the safest or driest ride and zig zagging may be in order. Boat wakes on a busy lake pose a problem of a different sort, as do barges. They are potentially more dangerous as the wakes can be unpredictable. If you're following another boat riding in its wake leaving the wake takes some practice, especially when slowing down may not be an option, because you may have a boat following in your wake. Avoid barge and wake boat wakes if at all possible.

Not my main ride but shes was born the same year I was

Dobyns Fury FR 795 SB (S/H*) is ideal for your application. TW shows you how each rod handle is measured. Swimbait rods usually have a fore grip that allows you to balance the rod with round reels like the Cardiff comfortably. The handle length includes the fore grip about 4" longer than rods without fore grips, the distance from the reel seat is equal subtracting the 4" fore grip. Tom * call Gary and ask if he has the split hangle(SH) or reconditioned high end model for $200 if interested.