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Brand new frog setup: Megabass Levante 7' 2" H "Perfect Pitch" Shimano Exsense DC

Money saving tip #1: Block BR, 'that auction site' and all international storefronts from your browser haha Really though, elaztechs whenever possible and mend-it for all the other soft baits. Plastics are often overlooked in terms of expense, but the longer they last the less they cost. One would be wise to squeeze every cast possible out of a bait before you retire it. I throw all my broken plastics in a ziploc bag and go through them when I get home to see if anything is salvageable, there always is. In terms of hard goods like rods and reels I enjoy having nice things so I patiently watch and wait until I can find a really good deal on something. I'm honestly not willing to skimp on any link in the rod-reel-line Holy Trinity so I have to make up ground elsewhere, be it a reel that needs repair or one that has a bit of age, etc. I am pretty much maxed out for rod slots right now too, so I have to sell something to get something and rolling the sale money into the purchase of the next item helps take some out-of-pocket sting out. Also I've recently developed a way to help my passion pay for itself. I originally got a cheap aluminum boat for the simple fact that I couldn't afford a bigger better one. I've been a custom metal fabrication guy pretty much my whole life, so it obviously ended up turning into a project that spiraled into an actual long-term plan after I experienced nonstop positive feedback everywhere I brought it. Long story short, in the past year I've started plucking cheap but solid aluminum boats off CL and stockpiling them over the winter. Come spring I will have a couple fully rebuilt like the one I made for myself (shown below) so I can sell them, reinvesting the cash threefold: a ~5hp or less gas motor for my boat shown below (I want to Quabbin seal it this year), a new kayak and at least one more project boat to rehab and flip to keep the work/gear/cash/fish/rinse/repeat flow alive. See, I may not *have* the money for much of what I want, but with hard work and some determination I know I can work my way into where I want to be over time and that's important to remember. Having a side gig does help compartmentalize the cost of fishing though too. My PayPal is almost like my ghetto fishing/business account lol. I mean, who wouldn't want one of these little guys? Full custom configuration too, imagination and money are the only limiting factors for a buyer. So yeah, it's all about examining your strengths and developing a plan to get where you want to be. There's always a way, even if it requires a lot of effort, time, research and planning. Anything worth having is worth earning though IMO. I don't mind spending dough because I like nice things, but I do need to feel like I got a good value before I will spend my hard earned cash, that much I will say for sure.

My first 8:1 bass reel was Tatula back in 2012. After fishing with this reels few months I bought 2 more. At first these reels were used for jig & worm fishing to assist in reel setting and controlling big bass away from the boat, recovering line quickly is important to me. What I learned is the newer low profile 100 size reels spools are small diameter and after you cast 30-40 yards the IPT reduces about 50%, the higher gear ratio's off set that lost line recovery. The newer bearings and precision gears used in today's high speed reels prevent any binding when under a load and cranking with these is similar to cranking with yesterday's slower ratio round reels with larger spools, they work good for every bass fishing presentation I M O. Tom

No need to downgrade or buy Chinese knock-offs, Another alternative is simply having the discipline to buy tackle ONLY when it is on sale. Over the years the majority of my rod and reel purchases have been from BassResource.com members in our Flea Market. Some of my most recent scores are McSticks on sale at Academy for $4.98, Tatsu for half price and Siebert Outdoors jigs for $1.75.

Bill Murphy...In Pursuit of Giant Bass! Tom

NOPE ~ Not a Penny More. That's on the seller. And there can't be negative feedback to you since you're not the one who Jacked up the transaction. I'd offer to pay what was agreed and if that's not good, get my $$ back. In fact I don't know what the site rules are but attempting to renegotiate an agreed on price after the fact - can't be a routine practice. Instead of paying more, perhaps you should respond by in fact offering less since you're obviously back in the negotiation stage of the process ? Might want to report this transaction to the site administrator(s). A-Jay

Why I am a better teaching angler than you are. (I don't really believe I am the best teacher, but I'll play. ) Finding fish on structure is not a complex differential equation that requires a high degree of intelligence to comprehend. Structure and cover are very simple concepts that, once defined, should be easy for most anyone to understand. Often left unsaid is the fact that learning structure on a large lake takes a lot of work and time, and typically the rewards from this process come later rather than sooner. The process of learning the structure of a lake is not difficult to understand. It is just difficult to execute due to the time involved. Back in the days of Buck Perry, the way to learn structure was to drag lures across the bottom in successive parallel paths, each one deeper than the last, so that the angler could feel and locate points, humps, drains, creek channels, etc. When a nice point or other type of potential bass holding structure was located, a series of paths perpendicular, parallel, and across the structure would be taken to determine its layout. Eventually, this process led to enough knowledge of the bottom to map out the bottom of the lake. Anyone can see that this method took a lot of time and even then, spots on spots could easily be missed. But . . . . it did work and Perry was dubbed the "Father of Structure Fishing." Once depth sounders/fish finders came into vogue, this process was made slightly easier, though the angler could still only see what was under the boat. If you still use one of these depth finders, then you will need to spend a lot of time following a process similar to the old "Buck Perry" process if you truly want to learn your lake. Once you learn quite a bit, you will be able to find and catch fish much faster. If you use side imaging and down imaging, then you have obviously shortened the process of learning the structure on your lake. One can now see out to the side of the boat and get a quicker view of structure. Anything that appears to be a potential spot to hold fish can then be further investigated with down imaging, 2D sonar, or lures. Additionally, an angler can and absolutely should peruse maps and online data about lakes and weather to narrow down probable lake areas for investigation. He or she can then concentrate the investigation process in the areas already chosen, thus decreasing the time needed to find fish. Keep in mind though, that if one chooses the wrong areas for investigation in your pre-trip searches, you may find yourself struggling on the water. Always check the conditions, water, etc when you arrive at the lake so that you can hopefully alter your plan if necessary. As one can surmise, small lakes can be learned pretty quickly. Learning a very large lake is where a lot of time is involved. It is imperative that you do your research on a large lake to narrow your search areas if you want to achieve success in a shorter time period. Keep in mind that knowing the structure of your lake is useless if you are not familiar with how a bass typically uses that structure throughout the seasons. In summary, it doesn't take an intellectually superior human being to be a good angler. It just takes one with a desire to learn, persistence, and the time necessary to apply these ideas on the water. I am not among the best anglers in the world, or anywhere else for that matter. But I can teach you and I believe you will be more likely to absorb what I teach because you will never feel that what I teach requires a special gift or superior intelligence. If you struggle with finding fish, don't be discouraged. You can do this.

I know there are people further south than me who can keep this thread alive! I caught this 3lb class fish today on a jig. The window of opportunity between school and work was very slim but I made it happen! Guides were icing up the whole time, things are changing a LOT. The dots near the corner of my mouth are not from me being a messy eater, the bass decided to send some mud and water my way when I reached down to pick it up

Happens from not fishing enough!

TW Sales... ugh.

I try to go cheap and some of the time I am successful. I take that back, I try to go inexpensive. There is a difference between inexpensive and "cheap". I don't do cheap. Cheap stuff breaks and causes more issues. That's why I nearly always buy Shimano. That's why I nearly always buy rods that have a lifetime warranty. Fenwick HMG's and AETOS have been my last few rod purchases, primarily for that reason. I hear lots of people talk about Dobbyns rods, but there is only one shop in the metro area that carries them and it is a drive to get there. Different issue. However, if there is a piece of tackle out there and I want it and I can afford it I just go ahead and buy it. When I'm dead I'll let someone else sort out all the gear. I justify it be reminding myself that I don't have very many other bad habits other than fishing. Is drinking craft beer a bad habit? I don't know.

Wow! I do the same thing! I also use to do metal fabrication and working on aluminum boats is a breeze! Someone gave me an old 1973 AlumaCraft with a shattered transom because they used a 60hp outboard on a transom rated for a 20hp. So he gave me the old boat for free. I spent an entire winter overhauling it and customizing it, but I added a yamaha 25hp 4-stroke outboard that is a perfect match for the 14 footer. Here is what it looked like before and after: For a free boat, a few modifications and presto! Instant bass fishing boat on the cheap and it can take me to where many fiberglass boats can not go because they draft too deeply and will ground out when this one keeps on going and going. I can go all day on a gallon of gas too. And I added a rectifier/regulator to the outboard and now charges the trolling battery as I run it. That cost $25 and was well worth it. I used no wood in this overhaul. But one difference between your boat and mine is that front deck. I used all plastic and aluminum. That front deck is all aluminum angle framing, but covered in expanded foam PVC plastic sheeting in 2 pieces with hinged access to below where the batteries and fuel tank are stored out of the way under the front deck. I wanted an open floor in the boat without lots of obstacles. I only used an 1/4" aluminum plate under the casting seat and raised it up another 1/4" to match the thickness of the plastic decking I used to keep weight down, and the plastic decking was a 1/3 the price of an all aluminum deck. In this next photo you can see how I extended the casting deck back another foot by using some custom made L brackets I hand hammered to fit this boat and used all aluminum hardware. Stepping up and down on the deck is solid now and I am not stressing those weak old seat rivets which would eventually tear out of the thin hull. My extension method hanging the rear of the casting deck from the upper railing takes all of the weight with ease and is not dependent on the hull for support back there. In total I spent maybe $1500 on it- including the 4- stroker, but it is like new and takes me where ever I want to go for freshwater fishing. I did add a Lowrance dual scan sonar with GPS and mapping... Aluminum boats do save money, and are cheaper to maintain over the long term. It may not be as nice as a fiberglass boat, but it is more important to me to be able to go into places to fish that fiberglass bass boats simply can not go!

Fish a more compact jig and trailer. I fish the trailers on my jigs just long enough to where the claws are coming out behind the skirt of the jig. That way if they pick it up they get the whole jig. So I'd have one rigged like you have it, have another of the same jig with a smaller trailer(using the Lobster, go down a size.) If that doesn't work downsize the jig and find a compact bait (I fish a lot of Bass Patrol jigs) and put a 3" trailer on them. I've had to drop all the way down to a 1/4oz jig and a Tiny Paca Chunk at times to get bit. If you have too much claw, just need to feed them more jig.

You still have neglected to say if on the second day you were fishing the same spot ? ? ? If that's the case, unless it's a big area or one that is a bit of a bass highway (where it reloads often, not usually the case this time of year) you may have sore lipped a good portion of the resident bass population the day before which may explain the fishes apprehension or lack of commitment to your bait. On a day to day basis, every day is different. Often every 1/2 day or even every hour can be different where changing it up keeps a bite going. Occasionally a bait change in the same spot will do it. (switching from a crank to a jig for example) Other times, the same bait presented in the opposite or at least a different direction - from shallow to deep or deep to shallow) can keep the fish interested enough to get a few more bites. Also If the bait moved, there's at least a decent chance that most of the bass did as well. A Change in wind & air temp can have the same effect. Getting bit in the same place, with the same bait, technique or presentation in the same spot a couple of days in a row does happen. Past that it starts getting a little tricky - just ask KVD. A-Jay

Fitzgerald Rods showed up yesterday. 2 Stunner HDs and a Bryan Thrift Signature Series. I'm done for awhile. D:

So glad this forum is NOT T,T! Over there it is the opposite and how much can some guys spend on art to hang on the wall and NOT fish with it! Like you I want to save money on gear and tackle. I visit pawn shops on a regular basis looking for rods and reels and sometimes find tackle boxes full of tackle for less than $20 usually. I have purchased some $200 custom rods this way for less than $15 each. Garage sales and even estate sales have been good to me over the years. My first custom spiral wrapped rod came out of a garage sale for like $3. But I gotcha on the Johnny Morris reels. I have repaired and modified reels for more than 30 years. So what I do is look for broken reels needing parts and repairs. My first Johnny Morris reel cost me like $5.00 for the reel and less than $20 for the parts. So $25 on my first JM. I recently picked up another one for $15 again missing some parts, and I am waiting on the parts from Bass Pro as I write this. So another JM for under $25. One man's broken junk is another man's treasure! Thanks guys who don't repair reels! And rods too! And a side note on those Johnny Morris reels, there are specific models to buy and models to avoid! You can download all of the JM manuals and schematics from the Bass Pro website. Once you have these you can compare the guts of each reel. So the only models I will purchase are the ones with triple carbon fiber drag washers and avoid all the models with a single drag washer that is not carbon fiber. Another Bass Pro reel secret is that some of the now discontinued Rick Clunn signature reels are identical inside to the JM reels! Most of the internal parts are identical. Same reels, different exterior basically. But, there is really only one model to buy. Bass Pro shorted some of the RC reels and they only come with magnetic brakes, but there is one model that has both magnetic and centrifugal braking and triple drag washers, but not carbon fiber. I simply switch them out with the carbon fiber. Piece of cake! And on my Rick Clunn reel I leave the drag dry so I can lock that drag down for pitching and flipping while the JM reels I lube the drag and use them for spinners and crank baits. Oh, and those RC reels are much cheaper than JM reels and no one wants to bid on them hardly as compared to fighting for a JM reel in a bidding war! And, Bass Pro did not make a Rick Clunn lefty in the 7:1 speed that I know of for the series I want with dual braking. No problem! The gears from a JM will fit right into the Rick Clunn. Problem solved. I walked into a thrift store one day and found a nice 7' top of the line Bass Pro spinning rod made from IM-8 graphite and bought it for $2 because some of the guides were broken. Took all of 3 hours to remove and replace all the guides with titanium oxide guides and I've been using it ever since. A sweet deal! One of my local bait and tackle shops routinely buys tackle out of estate sales and then resells it in their store. I can go in there and buy all kinds of name brand lures for $1 each, or $2 each. Bags of rubber worms for a $1. I save money buying a lot of rubber lures in bulk. Rather than hit Walmart and get a bag of zoom lures that come in like 8 or 10 per bag for $3-4, I go online and locate bulk sellers and buy like 50 or 60 rubber swimbaits at a time for $10 with free shipping type of thing. To save money on line, this may cause some controversy but oh well... when I began using braid line I paid the price for power pro coated with teflon poison that quickly wore off on my hands and into the water. Next I paid the price for sufix. Good line no doubt, but way over priced. Today I buy bulk rolls of cheap Chinese braid line without any poison teflon coating. My average price is like $20 for 1500 yard roll. And guess what? I have been using this line for 2 years now and I don't lose fish. I did some research on braid line 2 years ago and I went to the plastics industry who makes the PE gel spun fibers and I discovered there were only 12 companies in all the world who even made gel spun fibers used in all braid fishing lines. There are a couple in America, some scattered across Europe, but by far the most gel spun plastic fibers are made in China. So what happens is various line companies buy these gel spun fibers and then do their own weave and processing and then sell it for top dollar, some other companies just buy the already woven fiber line and then do a finishing processing on the line and also sell it for top dollar. I made the decision one day to skip all those top dollar high priced line companies and just try out the cheap Chinese line I read online here in America all these fishermen complaining about it, so I decided to give it a try and see if it was as bad as I read about and I was pleasantly surprised the line was not as bad as some make it out to be. And I have been saving a ton of dough over the last two years using Chinese made braid line ranging from 8 pound test up to 50 pound test and never had a problem with any of it. It is kind of humorous to know that some of those American fishermen who would complain about the cheap Chinese braid line are actually buying it themselves from Walmart marketed under another brand name and paying much more for it! Let's see... A roll of power pro for one reel's worth of line at Walmart is what $12 to $13? I can spool a reel with chinese line for a $1. I can do without the teflon poison too power pro uses for their finishing processing to make their line special. So I would not exactly call chinese braid line a cheap knock off since in the plastics industry about half of the gel spun capacity in all the world is coming from China. They can make it as well as anyone else and do! And they can weave it too. Oh, and for skirts... I hate them! I am not going to lie. Playing around with skirts gets old real fast. So I looked around for an alternative and found a yamamoto lure, a soft rubber molded bait that has the skirt molded as a part of it! And in the dark waters I fish here in Florida where you can't see your hand 6 inches below the waterline, there is no way any fish can see it 6 and 8 feet down either, so they don't care as long as they think they can eat it, it catches fish! And no more skirts to play with!

I've always ignored the kink myself. However, you can minimize it by not keeping your hook in the rod's hook holder tightly. Loosen the reel drag and just barely snug it up instead. Then just fish!

There are a lot of fans of the Strike King KVD squarebills around here. And I am one of those fans. They are within your price range. Throw squarebills in shallow water. They are good at deflecting off of rocks and logs, which is a good thing as it often triggers a reaction bite. I am usually fishing from the bank too. Try throwing them more parallel to the bank rather than out into deeper water. I do well with them, especially in spring and fall.

Google Elwood "Buck" Perry & read it all! Dang it went brain dead! WRB! The dude from California!

$3 a pop, how could you say no? Won't feel as bad when I get hung up now.

To hawgenvy. I became proud of their products when I went on business trip to the bass pro shops ( in USA ). Thanks. I interested in winter season tips, like a Jacob Powroznik's underspin lure technique. Because it is strange method in Japan. OK! Japan fishing show will take place this month. I introduce domestic or specific products mainly. Japanese domestic products are more expensive in USA. For example, My favorite reel "SS Air" ( which can cast as light as 1/16oz ), $277 by Amazon Japan, $374.99 by *** (USA) For example, OSP Blitz MR ( which is one of most popular crank bait in japan ), $14.0 by Amazon Japan, $19.9 by *** (USA) Good News, the Japanese government conclude a partial customs-free treaty. Also fishing tools are included that treaty. Unfortunately that is not true of bass fishing. There are carp or gibel fishing ponds which you said. We call it "tsuribori". It is perfect way for old man's to kill time. I attached "tsuribori" image. I will try it. Thanks.

There's a lot of really great info on here! There are a ton of you guys I'do love to get on the water with and pick your brains. The thing that I'm probably best at doesn't necessarily have to do with time on the water, but likely learning efficiently instead. I was always pretty analytical, but I was extremely lucky in college to be able to study under and work with a leading researcher in learning, problem solving, and the development of expertise... Or I guess simply "how to learn". It was a really humbling experience to actually break down the process, especially with common "genius" cases like brilliant musicians, artists, and innovators. Interestingly enough, the same ideas have really benefitted me in everything from my career, to how I teach Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, to how I approach my time on the water. The really short version of lots of research and case studies is that hard work plays a big role, but so do things like structured practice, tiered and evolving goals, engineering or troubleshooting a problem space, etc. For me, it was really motivating knowing that inherent "talent" isn't nearly the factor it's made out to be, and that most of time we just limit ourselves at what we decided to get "good" at. I think, also, it may give me a different perspective than most when it comes to how I pursue my time on the water. I don't get as much of it as a lot of you guys, so I spend a lot of time learning a body of water before I get there. I'll typically have topo maps (if available), DNR fish surveys, YOY surveys, reports on water quality/silt/blooms/nutrients, etc, before launching the boat or putting on my waders. When I do get on the water, I'm paying attention to the sizes of baitfish, what's living under rocks, the colors of crayfish, relative water clarity, weather, etc. This also taught me to learn more techniques and diversify how I fish (for years, I was a jig/worm guy) without getting too tied down to just one strategy. I keep notes on how/where they were caught, but focus probably more on what/how I was imitating than just the lure I was doing it with. The result might be similar to how a number of you have expressed having an engineer's approach to fishing. For me, it's the process of learning as efficiently as I can. It certainly doesn't make me a better fisherman than most of you guys, but I think it's ultimately given me a better than many understanding of what's happening under the water in the amount of time I've been back to fishing regularly. That said, I would love to get out on a boat with a lot of you guys and see how much I don't know.

First Roman Made for me..Trick Lipless. Sweet!

I officially have a jerkbait addiction...

C&G, I was about your age when my GF of 5.5 years left me out of the blue. I was on a 9 day fishing trip at a buddies place on Lake Minnetonka when she called me on day 2 and told me something was wrong but wouldn't tell me what. I packed it in and drove 9 hours home for her to tell me it was over. The next few weeks were spent trying to drink away my pain, but all it did was replace one hurt with another. I didn't fish hardly at all or spend any time with my friends. After about a month I let a buddy talk me into going to a country bar to catch up a little. As soon as we walked in I saw the prettiest girl I'd ever seen. It's been over 7 years since that night and I still thank my ex for what she did because I would have never met my wife if she hadn't.

I'll freely admit I'm a cheapskate when it comes to fishing. I don't spend as much as I probably should on fishing tackle and I'm always on the lookout for ways to save money whenever possible. What are some of your money saving ideas? Here are a few of mine: I don't buy $100 rods for reaction baits or topwaters because sensitivity matters less than weight and durability. I've bought a Johnny Morris reel off Ebay for $50. Had to send to BPS for $18.95 to repair, but that's a JM reel for $68.95. I usually kayak fish. No electronics. Berkley Big Game 15# mono! Sold by the pound and cheap enough to change a couple times a year. I use cheap mono line for backing for reels that have braid (I don't skimp in braid, but you can reel it from one reel to another, then you're using the unused end of it) I started wire tying baits with cheaper skirts so I don't lose them often. When using a T-rigged soft plastic craw, after one side gets chewed up at the head, flip the bait over on the hook and catch another one.

Micah with the BURN!!!!!!! LOL!!!

it's been said before, but didn't see it in this thread.... MEND IT the stuff can keep your soft plastics together for much longer than you'd imagine

This thread is awesome. I knew I wasn't the only cheapskate towards buying fishing gear. I only buy lures that are on sale and try to get them on clearance if I can. I always check closeout bins too. I have received my kayak and 2 rod and real outfits for Christmas or father's day. My kayak and baitcast combo were Christmas presents and my wife was able to get them for half price by getting them on Black Friday sales. Last year my health insurance gave us gift cards for filling out health assessments, so I chose bps gift cards and used them during the classic sale last year. Edit: I forgot add that a local mom and pop tackle shop also pours their own jig heads for a very reasonable price. They have a tubs bait and grub bar that has tiny crappie tubes and grubs up to flipping tube and 5-6 inch grubs.

I always try to buy my fishing stuff when it's one sale and I shop eBay and Craigslist and the flea market for used rods and reels. Although I occasionally buy a new rod reels I almost always buy used.

I get a kick out of fishermen in Florida worrying about color in dark waters where you can not see your hand 6 inches below the waterline. If you can't see your hand only 6 inches down with good light, how in the heck is a fish going to see what color a lure is 3 or 4 feet deep or deeper? They can't! In that situation color does not matter in my opinion. Oh but wait! Purple works better than black! Uh huh... sure it does. Sometimes us fishermen worry about details that in the real world simply don't matter as much as some think they do!

Downsize. Did you have to use a 3/4oz jig? How deep were they? "Occasionally a bait change in the same spot will do it." Agree with A-Jay on this. If the jig isn't making it happen, switch. You've got fish, now you have to make them commit -if you can.

Only buy tackle that works in your water conditions. No need for 10xd if youre a bank fisherman or fish shallow water. Know a few solid colors of lures and stick to them. All the different varities of colors dont matter to a fish. All those Flecks and flakes dont matter!!! Custom painted lures are a way to throw money in the toilet. Those catch fisherman, not more fish. Think a 5lber looks at a crankbait and can see the custom painted gills??? Cmon ya'll....these are little fish with little brains. They react to things in their environment. Once you find something that works (rod, line, soft plastic, etc) STICK WITH IT!!!! Buy it in bulk...stop experimenting. my $0.02

With all the options available today, at virtually every pricing point, there is no reason to sacrifice beauty for function.

You didn`t mention the wx from one day to next. Did something change. Also if you fished the same area, fish that got stung may be just checking it out, without total commitment. As mentioned smaller baits may help. C22

I would start with downsizing that trailer.

I bought a fish n ski this summer. I have had it out probably 20 times or so. Having never owned a bass boat it is hard to say how much more I would want a bass boat but I can give you my pros/cons. PROS It makes my wife happy. She likes to ski/tube and grew up on lake. It's great to take a couple friends out and everyone have a place to sit and what not. We plan on taking some family trips where I spend the morning fishing, and we spend the midday out on the lake with friends. Windshields are nice when it is cold. CONS Lack of Rod Storage. I would LOVE to have a big rod locker. I have broken several rods due to not having good places to put them. Lack of Deck Room- Nearly impossible to fish 2 out of the front ever. Limited area for mounting a large graph on the Dash (mainly because of the windshield) ** ribbing from "avid" fisherman that you bought a pleasure boat not a fishing boat (as long as you out fish them, what does if matter?) I was looking at both Bass and Fish N Ski boats, and in my experience it was easier to find an old fish n ski in great shape. The guy I bought it from owned it for 10 years and pretty much exclusively fished Clinton for Walleyes. He did pull his daughter on a ski with it some too, but overall it was in WAY better shape than some of the 1996 Bass Boats I looked at. (I was looking in a low price range $4-6k) I love my boat and have no regrets buying it, but I understand why someone would advise an avid bass-fisherman against buying one. Hope that helps

One other thing I have found is that I catch a ton of fish on my ugly sticks. I have a few 100$ sticks, but the ugly stick stays in the truck all season so I can stop and hit some shore spots on the way to and from work. Not saying the expensive sticks aren't great, but some cheap solid products are out there. Saying that I bought some cheap graphite rods once and had the tips break on the cast, so I have tried to stick with uglies for budget fishing.

I can't offer any advice about the business end of things or the market for a yak based business. What I can say is really successful fishing guides have great people skills and are committed to serving their customers. Good luck.

Bought this Yesterday

Hard to beat the SK KVD in that price range. I have a box full of them.

Structure is structure! It doesn't matter if it's me on Toledo Bend or WRB out in California or A-Jay up north or Rolo down in Florida or Raul over in Mexico. There are (local) regional definitions of various types of structure but in it's purest form structure is the shape of the bottom of a body of water. All bodies of water have it; it starts at the bank & continues out to the bottom of the deepest depths. When I'm faced with brush, timber, or vegetation my approach is the same; observe the structure first & then the brush, timber, or vegetation. Most anglers see the brush, timber, or vegetation (cover) but never look past it. I see guys on Toledo Bend flipping/pitching/punching the massive fields of grass by randomly wondering down the outer grasslines. Knowing what structure lies below the grass field I target specific areas catching more bass, bigger bass. & in less time! Turkey, look at what you wrote on river fishing & compare it to what I just said!

Every now and then I break out with one of my 5'6" Phoenix boron rods from the 80's. I keep threatening myself to go back to them. I am extremely accurate with them. I have no issues with distance. I really don't see my longer rods casting any further. I think because of the short rod and handle, you can whip it easier which generates a lot of tip speed. I fished with them for decades and never had an issue with hooksets back then. They just feel a more natural extension of my arm and actually easier on my arm. And the shorter handle doesn't get in the way. I like the angled Fuji Speedgrip type handle over what St Cruix offers on their pistol grips. There is just something about the way it feels.

I used to...his "persona" kind of made it a chore to watch. Not to mention the intro is about as long as the show itself.

Anyone care for Extreme Angler?

Anyone else watching the Informative Fisherman YouTube channel? Between that, and the Navionics webinar channel, I've been addicted for months.

Might as well feed my gift cards to the bait monkey. Untitled by Dustin, on Flickr

Fish and friends are good breakup medicine

This is not the place to seek Real Help - if you believe you need it - Seek the consult of a Medical Professional right away. If you're just blowing off a little smoke then I'll tell you that Personal relationships are one part of every mans life; sometimes there are more challenges than other times. What if you had all the mental ability and capacity to do anything & everything you wanted to do but physically you were completely crippled ? That would be really tough. Fortunately that's not the case here - the only one stopping you from doing whatever it is that you want to do it's that knucklehead that's looking back at you in the mirror. Might be time to move on to whatever the next chapter in your life is - btw - this is the only one you get. Might want to do something with it before it over. Happens pretty fast. A-Jay

Ain't no woman in the world worth destroying your life over