I almost always use a 1/2 weight as I like the casting distance, steady feel of bottom, and because it seems to just be what I reach for, although I have some lighter Mojo weights I used a few times when fishing shallow flats in clear water and they seemed to work. I leave the beads and rattles at home, and I usually just add about 2' of Mono or Copoly in 12-20lb test, and I am usually fishing deeper water with weeds often thick so I am not worried about stealth.
I almost always use a 8" Charlies Ribbon Tail worm or a Bass Assassin Sluggo or Trick worm rigged wacky and the charlies is considered a floater. If I want my bait to float off the bottom I use a Slip float or pill float pegged about 6" in front of my worm like you would do when fishing for walleye on an erie derie rig. I paint them different colors to match forrage and fry and it causes bigger worm like a zoom monster, Fatt Max Culprit, or good old Manns jelly worm to rise up a few inches which I think is key.
I experiment with the c-rig alot and have some odd baits that work well and if a Finesse trick worm or wacky rig sluggo or Floating/buoyant worm is not working, I will switch over to a floating rattle trap with two single hooks and weed guards as It has an awesome action with its nose down and darting side to side 2' off the bottom. I use a larger 5/8 size, and also use a D.o.A airhead mullet soft bait which looks like a big bluegill, and I put packing peanuts or a cigar float in the belly (same with hollow bellies) and I get less hits with the bigger swimbaits, but better fish.
My all time favorite Bait is a charlies floating large crawfish in Red Shad, or any bass assassin high floater creature bait, or ringed worm like a zipper, ring fry, or rage anaconda worms since ribs usually cause the bait to rise up off the bottom. We call the charlies craw a hover craw and its about 4" long, kind of realistic looking but flatter profile, and it is just a great bait for any soft bait rig......
From what I read, most people would not use anything but a zoom lizard, but I just never use a lizard for anything, and I use gamblers big ez or smaller swimbait or sassy shads to match panfish or shad size, or fry with a tiny sassy shad.
You can cover alot of water with a c-rig, work it steady but fast, and with braid you can feel any areas you may want to fish again since you feel contour changes, weeds, muscles etc....and I don't use Tungsten, just old lead barrel weight that I color black with a marker before putting in the box. I color pill floats in chart/orange for panfish color as a float and teaser, green or lime for baby bass fry, and white or silver flash for shad...I also have some craw colors, and uv for dirty water. I use the walleye rig 90% of the time, and a charlies ribbon or craw will get a good float on for you and bite. If not red shad, then Motor Oil/chart or your confidence color as size and profile matter more imo.
small worm hooks when possible, 1/0 if I can, 2/0 largest for better action, and you can use flukes, tubes, and my buddy uses the Sebile AT floating worm in white and that is a big complex looking worm or hybrid swmbait, but he does well with that worm, and it floats well.
Hope that Helps, get creative and have fun...Modify rigs, drag a floating lure or prop lure as added flash and vibration helps. I sweep on sets, pull baits both ways to see what is working but I think I stay parrallel.
I never used the c-rig until moving to Fl 7 years ago, and I forced myself to get confident using this rig since I saw how versatile and well it worked all year round, anywhere, and is great from back of the boat. I am not anti clicker, just think it sounds unnatural and if I wanted sound, I would put a rattle in the worm but rarely have done that. The Rattle trap on a c rig is a winner, and a floating trap is a great lure Freshwater guys overlook which is a mistake for sure