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If you paid list/retail price, then you have a overpriced reel..........

I would never make a statement saying there is no substitute for Rage Tail, because that is not true. These are all tools of the trade we need to assist us in catching fish. How you use them is up to you. There are many guys on this site that hand pour or use plastic injection systems that make craws. I've used them and they work just as well if not better than Rage Tail. So what makes Rage Tail so special, just because they are a sponsor and we have to promote them to our last dying breath. C'mon guys there is no one perfect plastic and many other brands catch a lot of fish as well. I would like to see what the response here would be if Netbait became a sponsor as well. What would would everyone say then? Would we have Rage Tail, Paca Chunk wars?????Just my persoanl opinion, if you want to delete this post go ahead. PS: With that kind of thinking since I own a Ranger than it's OK to make a general statement and say that there is no substitute for a Ranger boat? Senkosam, I like that you think outside the box and are trying new things and exposing everyone to new ideas. Job well done and I commend you on your ingenuity on posting other plastic baits as well in other threads on this site.

anything shimano.i feel there are better reels in every price range.everything diawa.there prices have become absurd..

Don't wild card it. Send it to them, politely explain your dilemma and ask if they have a reasonable explanation. They're good folks, and I would be shocked if they didn't take care of you on it.

Probably a thread looking for a short life span. Like Maico noted, a reel is only overpriced if you paid at or over full retail for a current production reel. There are always guys out there that are best described as "best bang for your buck". Typically wont fish a reel over $100 and may prefer setups that are all purpose. At the opposite end you have the high end enthusiasts/collectors. These folks look for simply the best of the best out of a reel that may only be used for one bait or style of fishing, something rare, or a reel with a color scheme to match a rod or custom build. Is the guy fishing Texas rigged worm with the $100 budget reel missing out on any more fish than the guy using the megabass hedgehog or Daiwa Z? Did the guy fishing the latter over pay for a reel? The answer essentially lies in level of expectations, budget, and level of perfection one looks for. Some folks meticulously take care of everything they have to a level of care that would drive most people nuts. Then you have some that are in more of a hurry and just sort of toss things around without second thoughts and are harder on their equipment. Since a reel for these folks will be put through the ringer they may have a hard time justifying a "pretty reel" since it will get beat up quickly. I know guys that refuse to buy reels other than pro qualifiers and others that only fish $300-$600 reels. Guess what, ... the guys catch the same amount of fish and do equally as well on the water. The guy fishing the $300 reels has a totally different expectation of his reels, and while they may not catch him any more fish he says he gets more enjoyment out of them with respect to their looks and performance. So back to the question at hand... without bashing brands that I don't care for I will say that most reels in today market place are priced fairly for their market segment for what they offer the angler in their stock form. While I have a reels from $100 - $500 in the rotation I have no problem catching fish on the $200 and less reels nor do I have an issue with their performance. It all boils down to angler preference / expectations / budget for determinimg the price to performance ratio for a reel.

A reel is worth whatever you're prepared to pay for it.

Anything with a persons name on it

Anything that says shimano

Wow, it's RageTail or go home on this site, taking support your sponsors to the extreme. Strike King doesn't developed a lures on there own, they notch off and mass produce someone else's designs and have for decades. Yamamoto's twin tail grub is as good as any soft plastic jig trailer and has caught a lot more bass than other Trailers in this category. Tinkering with different lures is a big part of bass fishing, use your imagination and don't get into the heard mentality. Tom

My amazing daughter is in town for the week ! im taking the day OFF ( like a prom dress) no reference to my daughter! LOL Ya know how sweet it is to watch that little girl walk down the stairs and say. " COME ON DADDY LETS GO FISHING"!!!! I dont know what or if we will catch anything, but i do know we will have fun. ill keep you posted!

First understand that the larger bass are not boys, they are girls. The next factor to consider is the larger size bass are adults, not juveniles and have lived over 4 seasons. These larger bass can go anywhere they are comfortable and eat nearly anything they choose. The one thing these big girls do is spawn ounce a year, which means pre spawn and spawn cycle is the time these larger bass are vulnerable to being caught then at any other seasonal period. The next 2 months in your region will be your best opportunity to catch larger bass. You can rely on finding the magic panacea lure or learn where the larger size bass are located. Study the lakes you fish, find out where they spawn and locate the deeper staging areas where these bass hold during the pre spawn period. These bass will be in deeper water than the younger and smaller bass. Swimbaits are a choice, jigs works good, big soft plastic worms are good, a smaller size A rig can be very good and don't overlook a wake bait. All those lures will catch big bass fished correctly in the right places. Tom

Well first off, Florida strain bass, Northern Strain Bass, Spotted Bass, and Red Eye Bass, are "all" considered to be black bass. Florida bass do grow bigger / faster, but often have shorter lifespans than the slower growing Northern's. The best way to target Florida's, is to fish places know to hold only Florida's, or at least having been infused with a good amount of Florida genes to mix in with the Northern's. Florida bass also tend to be less predictable (on today, off tomorrow) compared to Northern's. Fish

Here's one of the many I tied this past winter and has really produced for me this spring: The skirt is tied with thread on a lead free Siebert Outdoors head. I know, pretty generic, but a great producer. As you can see, this jig has been fished a little.

yeah sucks lol or you could bring some goats with you...poison ivy is high in nutrients and goats arent allergic to it and its one of their favorite foods hahaha

The leading edge of a cold front is actually the back end of a low pressure area, the low has passed, the weather is clearing!So what are you asking about, how to fish an approaching low pressure front or a cold front which is the approaching high pressure system. The approaching low pressure is usually associated with cloudy weather falling barometer that creates lower light conditions that benefits bass fishing. The approaching high pressure or cold front is usually associated with high wind, bright clearing sunny conditions and raising barometer. I believe this is what you are asking about because cold fronts are generally tougher bass fishing conditions for most bass anglers. The reason is most bass angler fish shoreline shallower water zones that are affected more by the bright windy conditions. Under these conditions it's usually better to fish deeper water that isn't affect by the frontal conditions or fish deeper into cover where some bass tend to go under the brighter light windy conditions. Tom

I'm doing 10lb braid 6 or 8lb fluorocarbon leader. Just nervous the 1000 reel would be to small. But I'm only using it for drop shot 1/8 oz -1/4oz weights nose hooking small plastics in shallow water. Just don't want to make a mistake with reel choice. I decided on the DX702SF for my rod.

What Tom said X2. Big baits = big fish. Big baits = lots of down time with bites so you may get bored. Big fish = will strike small and large baits but if you throw only large baits you will eventually catch a big one.

Heres a few

I honestly believe that most people aren't trying to make the fish look bigger, they're just unconsciously making the fish the primary focus of the picture. Take a look at pictures of people drinking. How many people hold their drink towards the camera when they know a picture is being taken. They trying to make their Coors look bigger? Perhaps I'm naive.

I recently picked up a 3rd Rapala electronic scale. I will have one in my bank fishing gear, one in the boat, and the 3rd as a spare. As I always do with a new scale, I perform a pull test on a known weight to check the scale for accuracy and repeatability prior to use. My first two scales have always been very accurate and close to each other during pull tests so I was very interested in how close the 3rd unit would be to the earlier units. So, I tested all three scales at the same time and, for the amusement of BR members, photographed the process. Test Results: Measured weight: The test weight was 9.804 pounds (more about how this weight was calculated later). Unit 1 read: 9.81 pounds - .006 pounds heavy (~0.1 ounce) Unit 2 read: 9.78 pounds - .024 pounds light (~0.4 ounce) Unit 3 read: 9.87 pounds - .066 pounds heavy (~ 1.0 ounce) Exteme spread between the three scales is .09 pounds (~1.5 ounce). Repeatability: The load was applied to each scale three times. Units 1 and 2 read identical weights each time. Unit 3 read 9.87 twice and 9.85 once. Photos: Unit 1 - 9.81 pounds Unit 2 - 9.78 pounds Unit 3 - 9.87 pounds Unit 2 under load - showing the test load - 9.804 pounds The test load: 420 lead bullets - .40cal/155gr nominal weight (157.63gr actual average weight). Plastic box weighs 2409.0gr. The white string weighs 17.2gr (.039 ounce). I didn't weigh the white label... Total weight = 68626.3 grains = 9.8037 pounds. The stated weight of the test load is accurate to within a tiny fraction of an ounce. This is a bit more precise than some folks who have tested their scales using a gallon of water, a 10-pound weight from a bar bell set, or whatever. NOTE: The measurements are in "grains." This is a somewhat archaic unit of measure used in the U.S. for ammunition components (primarily bullet weights) and for cartridge propellant charges. There are 7,000 grains in a pound, 437.5 grains in an ounce. Propellant charges are typically measured down to 0.1 grain (0.1 grain = ~0.0002 ounce). The scale used to measure the objects in the test weight is accurate and repeatable to within 0.1 grain. Summary: I am always amazed at how accurate these scales are; all three scales measure within one ounce of the test weight at the 10 pound range. Load cell technology has certainly improved and the price is now very reasonable for the capability that you get. I am also amazed at how many people report poor results with this model of Rapala scale. My Unit 1 is now three years old, Unit 3 is brand new; there certainly seems to be consistency in the accuracy of units produced over the past 3 years. I think knowing the weight of a 10-pound class fish within an ounce is close enough for me. It is extemely unlikely that I will ever come close to a record fish in my water so having a scale that is eligible for certification is unimportant. Compactness, and the ability to read to 50lbs IS important and these little scales work just perfect for me. Replace the battery once a year, don't drop the scale or dunk it in the lake, and you're good to go. Note for Users: This load test was conducted with the scales supported by a rigid bench, with the scales oriented vertical to assure that the chain is not rubbing on the scale housing, and with a static test load. When hand-weighing a fish on the water, it's difficult to keep the scale vertical, and to keep the fish immobile. I believe that these two factors are what contribute to variances in weight reading in the field.

These pits with stunted fish are perfect for meat fishing. I think that the little bass are the best size for eating. You would be doing the pit a favor by taking a couple of hundred 9 to 12 inch bass out of the pit. I'd throw a 4" Brewer slider worm on a 3/16 or 1/4 Slider head on 6 lb line. Go total finesse. Take advantage of this unique opportunity to practice selective harvest. Get a good sharp fillet knife. Line up some gardener you know, so that you've got some place to compost the fish heads and bones. Ahh - old time hippie meat fishing - brings back memories.

It may not be what you are doing wrong as much as it is the pit. I have seen many ponds/pits that seem to be what you are encountering. The problem could be as simple as stunted fish growth. This means the level of competition for food is much higher than the amount of food/prey available, resulting in fish not reaching their full growth potential. In other words the body of water lacks food sources for the bass. A few friends I know manage ponds locally with different strategies. Fewer bass numbers in a small body of water generally will allowed the fish to grow as they should. Less competition for food means more meals and bigger fish. As to how to fish your pits for larger fish there may not be much you can do to keep the dinks from getting the bait first. You may just need to put in time and just wait it out. If you increase the size of the lure it might help somewhat as well. One last thing don't rule out fishing during low light periods as bigger fish may let their guard down more and also move shallower... a surface bait would be a good place to start when your water temps are upper 50s to lower 60s.

I get frustrated with them myself. You would think they are semi weedless. I hang them in every stick they get within 10 feet of. makes me cuss!

Here's the thing, as much as I love, and fish, the Lobster, Craw, and Baby, they just don't work for me in every situation. Regardless of how loyal I am to them, I also fish the Critter Craw, Craw Papi, and a handful of others including the Creme craw. One of the primary reasons I fish the Rage Tail baits is the fact that Big-O is as active as he is here. It's tough to find that dedication and experience anymore, even in an industry that relies heavily on that standard of information. I will tell you, as well, the vast majority of my trailers are rage tail baits because of how effective they are. I don't care how many I go through. If it means I catch one more fish in a day, then it's worth it. The title, after all, calls the bait an alternative. It does not say a replacement for. Lik

I hate ivy. Poison Oak or Sumac is worse in my opinion. It is painful!!!! Best fix other than avoiding it is to see the Dr. Get some Prednisone. I have also found that there must be different strands of poision Ivy. I have no reaction to it in some parts of the country and in others it is horrible.

Yes. A-Jay

Its called a Personal Best War Injury. Hahahaha

I do understand brand loyalty and probably practice It as much as anyone. I think the above states it best though, If It works for you and you have confidence in that particular bait/trailer/hook, etc., then It really doesn't matter If there's a negative opinion about it.

Anything not Shimano.

You can buy this stuff called ivy block.. its a lotion you can rub onto your skin to form sort of a barrier to the oils. I used it one summer when I had to work a lot in the woods and didn't have much problem. If you can stand it wear pants and be sure to wash your clothes as soon as you get home to prevent reoccurring reactions to oils still on clothes.

I have the 7'2" Med Heavy. I am not impressed. It's a stout rod.....good for frogs, perhaps heavy jigs. I do not find it that sensitive. After all the hoopla that everyone was raving about it, I feel it is a good $50 rod......period. It sits in the closet as I speak. I have admit: I have about 20 rods......so I am aware of the good and bad points of each. It is not a bad rod at all.. It's just not a good enough rod......for me. Other opinions will certainly vary and I do realize I'm in the minority. I will use it as the rod I loan to a guy that fishes in my boat. The reason I bought it was of the cheap price. I definitely got what I paid for.

I'm not asking people to tell their secret waters, even though the rules say "mandatory" so I'd suggest changing the rules or ending the contest or telling people if they they don't want to reveal the water, then don't post an entry.

I think the record shows that when it comes to inexpensive alternatives in tackle choices I am an advocate. I also understand that inexpensive is not always good value. We all make value judgments based on income, personality, experience, testosterone levels, whatever. For some of us there is great satisfaction in saving a buck, especially if a little creativity is involved. For others the thought of using a cheaper substitute for a proven product is silly with fishing time such a very limited resource. I think Big-O has earned respect and if some are loyal beyond what others like that's OK with me. I have given RW and others grief about their unwavering loyalty to some products but I respect their reasons and commitment. Independent thinking shows itself in many ways. Senkosam whether your craw is a perfect substitute for anything or not, if it works for you, enjoy.

I prefer Reaction Innovations,

im the same as you man if i get into it i have to go to the doctor sucks doesnt it! wear long pants and long shirt (white preferably) and make sure you try not to use your hands on your face if at all possible and if you even think you might have touched some during the day when you go home take a long shower and wash your body with dish washing soap (dawn is what i use cause we use it for dishes) and use cold or cool water not warm or else it get washed into pores the poison sits on top of your skin it doesnt soak into your skin and the bubbles that form are body fluid not the poison and the poison is hard to remove from the skin but lots and lots of water will remove it and the dish soap will help the water even more...also if you know you touched some make sure you wash your rods and such cause the oil will sit on them and youll get it again without going near the plant if you know you touched some and the water you are fishing is pretty clean rinse off the part that touched it really well where you are fishing and i mean really well cause again the oil is hard to remove also dont count on this but anyone who is allergic to it can become not allergic to it at any time and also the other way around if you arent allergic to it you could become allergic and it switches fast...i have to play in it a lot at work so when you get it every week and have to see the doctor every week you learn real fast how to work it haha...sometimes i get it then the next week i can play in it and not be allergic sorry last point lol there is another plant called virginia creeper it has 5 leaves and has the same type of poison so be careful of that too...here is a pic of virginia creeper

The best rods are the ones that have a fish on the other end of it.

Conditioning isn't a form of intellect its a response to an environmental factor, why do bass take food pellets? They are conditioned to do so, why do they have automatic food dispensers? How can the fish know that food comes out of this dispenser when it forgets in 15 mins? Why would you hang around this large object that drops things at you unless you were conditioned to do so. I am not saying a bass knew what a TM was and that it means humans are coming to catch, it just proves that this bass was conditioned to avoid that factor.

the action should depend on the type of cover you fish, a 7' MH for open water or sparse weeds/ wood, and heavy action and 7'6" -8' if it is heavy weeds and thick pads. Mitch

When i say light i mean around 1/8 oz t-rigs, and 1/4 cranks

I got my first bass on a SPRO frog two days ago as well!!!! I landed mine, though I did get three blowups, and missed two. The water here (Philadelphia area) is in the low 60's and the bass arent really committing to the frog yet. Postspawn is when the frog bite gets HOT. You setup sounds ok, but I personally prefer a 7'-ish rod. I use a Powell Endurance 7'1" Heavy EF rod with 65lb braid and a 7.1:1 Revo STX Gen3. Dean Rojas tosses his frogs on a 7'MH rod. You dont need a flipping stick. The shorter rod is WWWWAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY better for walking the frog and skipping. I usually have a pretty high strike to land ratio with that set-up.

You were fishing a reaction bait over 20 ft. Of water. Little different than a finesse jig in 6 ft. Of water. If people don't think fish are line shy, especially trout in heavily pressured waters.....hey, more power to em

Replenished my chatterbaits, some shad spoons, a couple squarebills, a pack of road runner heads and a spool of PLine CXX for my Swimbait reel. Also I picked up a ci4 from a fellow BR member.

I have some customers who want a rod with micro guides while others don’t care much for them. I can say building a rod with micro guides is a little bit more difficult due to the smaller size I have to work with. Some rods you wouldn’t want micro guides anyways. I've had requests for flipping rods with micro guides. A problem with that is micro guides were originally designed to be used on light to medium rods. They weren’t designed to hold up to 65# line and the strain of pulling lure and fish through lily pads, grass, and other cover. Take a micro guide and try to bend it, not hard to do. Now take a double foot guide and try to bend it, a lot harder to do. With micro guides you get a little more distance as it keeps the line leaving the rod in a more straight line with less play as it goes through the guide. The more play it has the more friction it creates which in turn slows down the line speed faster. The theory of micro guides saving weight is a little bit a myth. A rod with micro guides, when done properly, has more guides than one that has standard guides. Reason it needs more is that fact that the line is sitting closer to the blank and you have to have more to keep line slap from happening. They have their place but aren’t an ideal guide setup for all applications in my opinion.

you might also try a black jitterbug. I prefer the 5/8 ounce jointed version. I also replace the back hook with a VMC sureset hook. Lot's of fun catching fish on topwater....being at night only adds to the excitement.

Where else can you dump all your available cash and not be expected to have anything to show for it. It ranks right up there with golf and weather forecasting.

Here is a quality rod at a steal if it has a length/action you can live with. http://www.ebay.com/itm/QUANTUM-SUPERLITE-PT-QTC6107F-610-HEAVY-BAITCAST-ROD-/310410629409 I bought one, but have not had a chance to use it yet.

Generic baits have very little in common with Rage Tail soft plastics. If some particular shape is all you care about why not make it out of a discarded old tire? Then it's free!

I only name mine on days something goes wrong with it.

Here's my first entry - 6lb 8 oz smb, Monday April 22, Lake Erie - in PA waters. 6 lbs 8 ounces for a total of 104 ounces. PA state record SMB: 8lb 8oz or 136 oz. 104 / 136 = .7647 x 100 = 76.47% Sorry A-Jay. There are a few more days left for upgrades on this trip.

St Croix Avids are tough to beat for the money. Made in the USA, hand wrapped guides, and a life time warranty doesn't hurt things either.