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Went to Bass pro and tried to buy gun powder and bullets. When I went to check out, the cashier said. "Strip, facing me." I just figured the laws went into rule already, so I obliged and stripped down. After the hysterical screaming and laughing subsided, the cashier calmly stated............."I was referring to your credit card."

So, how do I know the person who posted this isn't some dude jackin' your BR name and telling us to not open emails? Hmmmm? Maybe those emails have important info in them like "Some guy is pretending to be me on BR so don't listen to anything he says." I'm torn, I'm just torn....LOL

Are you texting while driving ?

This is one of my top three techniques in winter. Find the Steepest bank on the lake, and throw parallel to it. The bank should be at least a 45 degree angle. I question your dedication, sir!!!! hahaha YES! I fish the Northern Chesapeake Bay quiet often, and the ol' Silver Buddy (blade bait) is the premier technique. Find videos from Pete Glusek about fishing the SB in winter. Dont be afraid to fish shallow. Bass in winter will be shallow, but not necessarily relateing to cover. cover water quickly with a balsa squarebill (no rattle). Dont reel to slowly either, you are still looking for a reaction strike! I agree with the first two. My number one-of-all-time winter tactic is BURNING a chrome rattle trap. You might want to yo-yo it as well. Dont be afraid to fish it overly aggressive. Winter temps often produce a baitfill kill. Bass might be used to seeing shad flutter down to the bottom. Thats where a silver buddy comes in. yo-yo it on the bottom. The shallowest bass i ever caught was in 8" of water, next to a tree... in February. I grew up in northern New Jersey. This lake was all frozen; just this one little flat with one tree on it was thawed. and i caught that bass on a jig. I grew up in Jersey, you live in North Carolina. Our two opinions on "tough" winter fishing might be a little different. Good luck!

My Bps strategy : -walk directly to the reel counter and test out every reel I want to buy and take notes - test out the rods I want see how they feel - mess around with random plastics and hardbaits - any plastics reasonably priced or things on clearance usually pick up - try on columbia gear and other clothes - walk out spending about $20- $25 but with the intention of buying everything I looked at for a lower price elsewhere.

this picture may answer your initial question... btw this isn't my picture

When you are pitching, speed is your friend. It's close quarters presentation and normally in or around heavy cover. The bite can come the millisecond the lure hits the water or just as you lift it out for your next pitch. You already know that. Getting your lure in when no bite takes place, faster, allows you to make more presentaions per minute and the more your lure is in the strike zone, the greater chance to get bit. Having the ability to take up line fast after the strike will get a fish moving your way and reduce the chance of getting mired in the cover.

And by the wording of the Op's posts.............maybe the medicine and/or liquor cabinet should be avoided as well.

Here ya go A-Jay, thought you might get a kick out of this. A 100,000 dollar slightly used sock http://msn.foxsports.com/mlb/story/curt-schilling-bloody-sock-auction-boston-red-sox-world-series-011713

A 2500 size reel is more than enough to handle a DS. The stradics drag is effortless and very smooth. On my vertical jig rod, I use a 1000 stradic jigging down anywhere from 20-40ft for walleye and have brought up countless flathead cats, big head cap and common carp in the excess of 20# and the drag has never failed or slipped once. There have been some times than the large car[ and catfish has ran me into my backing but that is very few and far between and almost non existent for bass. I'm sure the 2500 would be more than adequate for drag. It will be better for you to put the reel on the rod rather than blind buy for such a technique because comfort will play a bigger role than other techniques.

LMAO !!!! The hysterical screaming is something I would have expected, the laughing however comes as somewhat of a suprise !!

Yeah pros. I'm not a pro, I'm a Master!

2500 balance better on my equiptment and I never need the extra line capacity of the 3000

Thats natures way of telling you to go with a 7.1

I haven't but is they made a BDSL8f, I would try one in that same color you posted!!! Jeff

I think its the right color, but too much $ for me right now.

I use them all the time in both fresh and salt water. If you opt to use one, I recommend stepping up to the salt water grade. They hold up better over the long term. I use the size 2 series rated at 65lbs. or higher, and I always get the black ones. Like Crestliner said, switching out lures is a breeze when you use a snap, but another advantage is that you don't have to have multiple rod and reel combos on your vessel. You only need the one rod and reel. Once you dial in a pattern or color though, you may opt to tie direct at that point. I personally just leave it as is, because the bite can turn off in an instant, and you may need to change from a square bill to a deep diver or lipless or perhaps even a silent version. As a kayak angler, space is limited anyway for the number of rods I want to carry (usually 2-3), so simplicity is a necessity for me. Thus, I use snaps for treble hooked baits all the time.

Radicchio lettuce.

I don't feel any difference fighting a fish, or getting a hookset in, regardless of ratio, or IPT. The only time it has ever mattered to me is deep, vertical drop shot for smallies. They tend to run strait up, faster than any high speed reel. Otherwise, it's only a convenience when you DON'T get bit,and you want to get your bait in fast to make another cast.

Definately a fast IPT reel on that set up! My jig/worm rod has an 8.0:1 STX gen 3 on it and its perfect! The majority of my hits are always on the fall. Line slacks up and the fish starts to swim away. You have to reel slack in, hit em and get them moving your way as fast as you can.

Big fish sports is good to deal with. I got my order in two days. The spools are new and wrapped up nice. Hard to beat their prices. Maybe try and shoot them an email and see of they can do a secure payment? They have a lot of positive feedback. They left me a card in the box saying to contact them if I wasn't happy with the product and they would make it right.

Detroit and Chicago woulda been in there too...

The most violent cities in America?

Not close enough to a spa!!! HAHAHAH Jeff

I know you've already decided which way you're going and I agree, for a jig only reel 7.1 is the way to go, I just wanted to give my thoughts on a few points discussed here. I don't use many high speed reels currently, as best I remember I only own 2 at the moment but I don't feel they lack the power or torque to fight big fish easily. My Curado DHSV has really good power in my opinion, I'm not exactly sure of the IPT anymore but it's fast enough to be a great pitch/flip or jig reel. These reels feature an aluminum frame and handle side plate which keeps the gears in perfect alignment and doesn't allow any flex which results in good cranking power. I also remember reading a review when the E series first came out that the main gear in the D series was slightly bigger than the one in the new E series and in the opinion of the tester this lessened the cranking power a bit. I know you're going with a new Revo, my point to that was that all 7.1 reels aren't created equal. Just because one brand or model doesn't have good cranking power under load doesn't mean none do. I've never fished a Revo so I can't help you there but I think I remember reading that the new gen 3 Revo has bigger gears than before so it could turn out to be a really good 7.1 reel. I hope it does for you, let us know.

Put your money towards the gen 3 stx 8.0 ratio thats a badass reel. anything else and id go with the lews tournament pro speed spool. Guess what is sitting right next to me brand new? The TP speed spool guess what reel is about to be next the STX gen 3 8.o abu. Guess what next another winch . yes i am addicted to fishing buy arent we all?

The difference between the DT series and the DD series are pretty huge . I have a tremendous amount of confidence in both, and fish both under many circumstances . To start with, the nice thing about the DTseries is the availability of the range . From the 4 to the 20, you know where your bait is, period . The DTis also a balsa based bait with high flotation . When you're fishing in hard cover or large rock where a bait nay be prone to hanging a bit more, the baits can back out of a snag more efficiently than many of their competitors. The Rapala bait is also relatively tight in comparison to many other shad body cranks . The Norman cranks are reliable across the board as well . They have excellent colors and are quite durable when you find yourself fishing in heavy grass or large rock . They're a much wider wobble with more roll than the DT series baits, also with a lower pitch rattle . Both feature VMC hooks and both have excellent hookups . I tend to favor the Rapala more as a search bait than the Norman, more because I can rely on it to be more erratic and mobile when I am moving it at slower or faster speeds . It is a more variable bait than the Norman . When I have a specific pattern than fish are located at a specific depth and on a larger profile bait, I tend to favor the Norman baits . The third series of bait that I throw extensively as both a search and targeted pattern is the Fat free Shad . They float well, have very good dive angle and remain at depth for reliable amounts of a cast . They also have a variety of depths with one of few that is in a sub one ounce 18-19 foot dive range . The FFS has very good hooks, are very durable, and have very consistent behavior at depth . They also perform well in cover, which is probably the singular drawback to the fragility of the Rapala . I could expand a bit more, but I fear I've already bored most out of their skulls...

X2 well said, this is why I use a high speed reel when pitching

cfl stuff isnt trivia

I am hoping the eagles sign lovie smith as dc now.....then I would be a little more optimistic

I personally do not like burner reels, anything over 28 ipt with a 6.5:1 like Abu makes. In answer to your question about harder to crank, yes. To achieve the speed you give up torque, just as a car with a 411 rear end makes more torque than one with a 372 rear end. It has the same horsepower yes, and same torque at the engine, but where the rubber meets the road, no. I want the torque to move the fish out of cover, others want the speed, and in the fishing world we aren't talking about a huge amount of difference in amount of force required. Most people think that the reason crankin reels are low geared and have low ipt is to make the deep divers run true, while this is correct to a point it is as much about angler comfort. If you don't believe this take your crankin set up and a jig set up with a burner to the lake with a DD22, you will exert more force at the handle to crank the DD22 with the high geared reel than you will with a low gear reel even if you reel slow to offset the ipt. The low gear reels are made to move baits, fish etc with less force by the angler. I'm not talking drag, or anything like that, just the amount of force you apply. You can have a 7.1:1 and a 4.7:1 geared reels that both have the same ipt, it will require less effort to rotate the handle on the low geared than the 7.1:1. The same reason applies with the longer handles, cranking reels typically have a longer handle, again for the torque. What you can do to offset the torque issue is to add a longer handle to the reel. There are reels out there that are low geared and take in alot of line, the C3 by Abu has a 5.3:1 gear but takes in 25ipt, the C4 has a 6.4:1 and takes in 30ipt, here you can move both a large amount of line without sacrificing the torque required

Leave me alone -I want to go to Fla -My buddy Jim is leaving for Falcon on Thursday-That was his christmas present.. Im going to give hime a sombrero and an AK47

Its worth it if you have never been there before. Bring a high limit credit card and a few shopping carts in with ya lol

Faster the reel, the faster you get the fish out of the hole. My hollow frog rig and jig/pitch rigs are 7:1

Fish in the cattails. Two specific baits that can be fished weedless are the Rage Tail Toad and Menace.

I forgot all about this, you can talk to deaknh03, he designs for Talon Lures...LMAO!

Blizzard. I wound up getting tired of sitting at home, drove around the barricades on the on-ramps, and went to work.

#2 sounds the same. what i found was that the lawn mower tubing was more flexible and a little easier to work with. plus it has a yellow tint...easy to find if it comes off. i actually keep them on the spinnerbaits so they are already there. i use Danielson duo lock snaps i get from TW and BPS brand also

I'll be there...form just sent to you Mike. I fished Pickwick several times this past fall for the first time....look forward to hitting it in the spring. One of the guys in my club caught an 8 lb 4 oz LM in the state BASS federation tournament and I know where she was released!!!!

Why would he look silly? I would wear a jersey that had BPS, Shimano, Zoom, YoZuri, Power Pro, and other stuff that I use on it. Who cares? Its what I like, and everyone else can blow off! What is the company gonna do? Complain about free advertising? Don't listen to these fools kid, do what you want, fish naked if you want to, whatever makes you happy.

Tom, First of all welcome to the forum and we hope you enjoy it here !! Talking about sharks eating a catch is something I had only seen in a video, a friend of mine went deep sea fishing somewhere off the coast of Australia, they were fishing for swordfish, my friend hooks into a nice fish, fights him for roughly 25 minutes, gets it close to the boat, I would say within a hundred yards, and all of a sudden you just saw this grey flash just break the surface and the line goes limp, sort of, he continues to reel in and all that was left of this 400lb fish was it's head, a clean single bite it looked like is all it took. It was the coolest thing I think I have ever seen, but I also thought how odd it must be, evidently it however seems to be a common thing to have happen.

In 28 yrs of reel service I have never lubed the brake drum/race on any reel. Also have never seen this scorching effect stated above... Keep the blocks, and ther post clean so they can easly move and you won't have any problems...... Tight Lines!

Another consideration is your laws. Here in MA, the state has legislated against the use of any lead sinkers and/or jigs or line weights of any configuration. So, we've HAD to seek alternatives. Tungsten is for the more affluent amongst us, so bismuth or steel are the more viable alternatives. I've been using steel for drop shotting for many years now and it's worked out quite well. You can get steel "bass casting" sinkers at WalMarts for a song & a dance. Drop shot swivels and split rings are available at Janns Netcraft.com. Here are the components to my weight system: This is what it looks like rigged: Simple and extremely cost effective.

Ohh. Maybe I can get some of the kool aid.

Is there a question or a point in there? I don't understand the post.

Law permitting, use two rigs. One, floating a suspended, wacky-rigged Senko in the water column on a slip bobber. Second, fishing a more active presentation, such as the drop shot, tubes, jigs and/or swimbaits, on the other rig. With two guys in the boat, fishing this way, "quads" are not uncommon. Talk about a fire drill! LOL!

Your problem isn't about lures it's about location and feeding activity, know one can catch bass that are inactive. Some believe you can tease a bass into striking and that rarely occurs outside of guarding a spawning bed or home territory. When bass are inactive or resting they have no interest in eating anything. You can put a live minnow or crawdad in front of the inactive bass and it will ignore it. Bass in the wild often have baitfish swimming within inches of them with no fear or interest, the prey recognize the predator is inactive. When the bass starts to become active the prey disappears, or hides, they sense danger. If you are trying to catch bass when they are inactive for whatever reasons, you will fail. However being at the right place when those bass become active, then you should succeed. Yes, you need the right type of lure that the bass are looking for, presented at the right depth, so they have a chance to strike, but several lures usually work when bass are active. River bass are not as affected by weather changes as bass in lakes. The water is moving, the bass can't go extremely deep, the water temperature remains fairly consistant unless very cold run off enters the river. You are better off using high % cold water lures at the right depth then changing to everything in the tackle box. Tom

First cast on my new cumara/ci4 setup and I hook into this on a shakey head, and 6lb test!

The G series is a fine reel, is just not the same quality as the E. Are they worth it? That is up to the buyer. For my money I would wait and put my money on the Chronarch E, not because the G series are dogs, but they just aren't as good as the E series.