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Yeah, but it is a big contributor to chapped thumbs.

All on a 3/8oz black on black Cavitron in April last year, just under 22lbs total. I was using 14lb Mustad Thor line.

Why do I love this forum? Because of the amazing members. I have had several member jump in at the last minute and only wanted to GIVE. So there are some of you that are extremely lucky and will receive an extra gift. You were chosen nearly at random by a system involving a complex calculus formula, a bucket, and a horse named Percy . They did not want to get anything in return except for the satisfaction of giving. You're Welcome

I bought a 15.5 foot Mirrocraft last spring and figured I'd fish some prime smallmouth waters, like Sturgeon Bay in Lake Michigan and the upper Mississippi. I used it once and liked its speed and stability. Stepping onto its deck is like stepping onto the deck anchored to my house. Stepping into my canoe can be tricky and especially if it's a frosty morning and I'm stiffened by sleeping on granite. Nevertheless, I'm selling the big boat because I didn't like fishing that far from the water. I like being close to the fish and the water and most of all, I like that my canoe goes places no big boat can go. I also like how quiet my canoe is and that I don't have to fiddle with gasoline, launch ramps, a motor, and a battery. I fished from Old Town royalex canoes for years for their sturdiness, but as a concession to my 50s, I now fish from kevlar Bell boats. I have a solo and a tandem. Any others who prefer canoes? Of course, I have regrets with my choice of boats. I look at pics of your Lake Erie bass and understand it's unlikely I'll ever catch bass as big as you big water fishers catch, but lawdy, I sure do catch a lot of bass on those lovely, pristine lakes from my little boats.

I was speaking with a friend last week, a young man in his thirties, who had just seriously injured his back trying to remove his deep-cycle batteries for winter maintenance. He was kneeling on the rear deck of his boat when he attempted to remove the deep-cycle batteries; the first was ok but a heavy lift, but the second was further back and proved more difficult.... That's when a hot knife plunged into his back and he couldn't move, couldn't get off the boat, and his wife couldn't move him. Long story short - The EMT's were called and transported him to the local ER where a CT/x-ray revealed a ruptured disk. So, I just want to pass along to all of you a reminder to be careful of your backs when removing batteries from your boat. The best tip I can offer is to attach a short piece of rope to the lift handles of the battery, then stand straight up and lift the battery by bending at the knees; the rope will allow you to maneuver the battery to clear the locker sides and get it on deck. Bottom line, take a few extra minutes to protect yourself from injury. Cheers, and Merry Xmas

Don't give Bobby any reasons to put the goop on his palms. LMAO

Right now if I had to get 2 reels new for around $150 each Spinning - Pflueger Supreme XT (or Patriarch if you can get a deal on one). I'd take a Stradic FJ too though as a second pick. Baitcasting - Lews Tournament Pro. Although I would be happy with some of the curado series or maybe a revo s too. Those are all pretty good reels and it's more of a personal preference. You won't know what you really like until you try them.

Well, the rod is a G-Loomis SR720 rated for 1-4 lb mono. It's a 6ft, 1 piece, true micro-light. LOVE these rods. Of course I use nothing but braid {real fishing line } so my main line is 2/10 micro braid. Looks like sewing thread Works great on a 1000 series reel, as its so thin, you can put close to 200 yards on...... not that I ever need that much, as I always use my t-motor, or gas motor, to chase down big fish anyway. BTW, for people who don't use braid, please don't try to compare 10 lb braid, straight across to 10 lb mono. It's just apples and oranges. With zero stretch, 10 lb braid is much less forgiving than 10 lb mono. If one were to put 10 lb braid on a medium weight rod, and treat it like 10 lb mono, they would likely break fish off on hooksets and such. I probably put about as much pressure on a fish with 2/10 braid, as I might, with say 6 lb mono ? But that's enough anyway. You don't wear the fish out. The fish wears itself out. It's not about being stronger than the fisah. Its about being smarter Peace, Fish

Its my favorite bait and style of fishing. There have been days that I throw the cavitron and never put it down. I have won lots of money using these baits. Not only does it catch numbers but lunker of the tournament often comes on it.. I fish night tournaments here with a bunch of guy Usually about 25 boats Al I here is bzzzz and some squeeeel.I know right off the bat its a cavitron. As for the rods and reels /line set up.. I use a 7 ft M/H action rod. Shimano Citica-and 14 lb test Trilene Mono XL I DO NOT LIKE BRAID WHEN FISHING MY BUZZBAIT --Mono give me the right amount of stretch witch in turn means time for the bass to hold on to the bait With braid I often pull the bait away from the fish. Or come back with a set of lips. Braid has its applications but for me -not buzzbait fishing. Believe me theres nothing like buzzbait fishing--The most violent /explosive strikes I have ever seen have come on this bait.. AND MEMBERS--Yes they are more than most buzzbaits but I have learned one thing in my life.You get what you pay for.Everything is made right here in the US- Quality is everything to me Ok leave me alone I have work to do This guy liked them so much he got a cavitron tatooed on his are YIKES

Quan, I am super excited and can not wait for morning to get here, your feedback has ment a lot to a good amount of anglers and I for one have enjoyed reading and taking advantage of a lot of the things you have had to say on this forum. Tomorrow should be an interesting day and a day I am sure I will not forget, this will be a new experience and a new body of water and a great opportunity to expand and learn. I can not thank you enough for the chance to get on the waters you fish and have some fun !!!! See you in the morning sir !!!

i'd use it for anything 1/4-1/2oz with a stout hook. that XF tip will drive a thick hook home. and i wouldn't be shy using it around cover with the MH rating. you should have no problem turning a pig's head with that power so feel free to pitch weeds/wood/pads etc. jigs, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits would be fine. the fast tip will cast a heavy weightless soft plastic with no problem (6" weightless senko is fine). or any t-rig bullet weight plastic. i'd use 12lb flouro on it and use it for my semi-open water rod. i'd use 15lb flouro or 65lb braid on a heavy action rod for any serious frog/muck/punching fighting/wench action. any rod can be versatile in the right guys hands ie in a pinch you could throw a lipless trap on it just be VERY careful (play the fish/don't set the hook too fast or you will rip the treble hooks right out of their mouth. i have the exact same rod by powell and its an all around utility rod. i prefer to toss 6" senkos and jigs on it b/c i can cast them a mile and the rod has the power to muscle fish out of cover. i have a heavy action rod for pitching jigs to specific thick cover targets.

A Core would look good on that rod. The gray body of the reel wouldn't match the color of the rod, but the Core does have a red spool and some red accents. It would be a good color combination.

Depends on how you like to fish. I prefer bait casters for cranks, jigs, spinner baits and a-rigs. I use the spinning reels for shakes head and Texas rigged soft plastics. A bait caster can be tricky to use at first due to the backlash ( this occurs when the reel spins faster than the line can get out. Causes your line to tangle and knot. Can be a pain to get straight). Once you use it for an outing or two you should get the hang of it. As far as the reels I love my set ups. They are as follows: Spinning: quantum smoke reel w/ BPS 6.6 mh extreme rod Quantum energy pt reel w/ BPS 6.6 m carbon lite Bait casting: quantum kvd reel w/ BPS 7 mh cranking stick BPS Rick Clunn reel/rod (no longer made) I am a fan of quantum (obviously) but I've heard the Abu garcia revo is pretty slick as well

Hey guys. Thanks for the kind words. Just to clear a few things up: Lunkerville airs on NBC Sports from January-June. Last year we aired re-edited re-runs from season 4 and 5. This January, we're airing an all new season 7, which is currently airing on WFN. Our WFN airings are 6 times a week, all year. We'll also be airing on Mountain Lake PBS and expanding to more PBS stations this year. Yes, we do a bit of creative editing in the shows sometimes, but that's our creative license. What we don't do is "fake catch" fish like some other shows. What you see is basically how the day went. It's real people with real fish stories. We start filming again very soon and will now be more of a multi-species show, with about 1/2 bass and 1/2 other freshwater species (with a pinch of salt thrown in). We're also revamping our website and will eventually offer past season's shows in full HD off your computer. The new season's shows will show up online after our NBC Sports airings. So, this current season will be available in July. Now, we do have a new title sponsor: South Bend, and it's a big deal for us. But the show is staying the same and we won't be hawking goods left and right like the other shows. You will see their product and logo quite a bit, but we are not changing the format of the show. If anyone has any questions, ask away. And thanks everyone for watching the show! PS. Thanks John and Paul for your terrific kayak presentation at the NYBASS seminar. TOP NOTCH!

I see about 300 reels come across my workbench each year. There is nothing I can tell that quantifies this statement. It's totally false - and I'm a Daiwa/Shimano guy. They all have issues based on usage that have to addressed down the road after heavy use. Daiwa pawl and worm gears, gear sets....Revo clutch kick plates and yoke posts, Shimano drag pads... To make a sweeping statement like that is totally false, in my experience. Some individual models are standouts for durability. A Daiwa Zillion or Advantage, Shimano Calcutta B, Chronarch B/D, Curado B, and older Revo S or Skeet Reese with centrifugal brakes are examples of well designed, long lasting reels.

Pull up a chair and get comfortable, this is going to be a little long winded........ I posted the majority of this content in another thread but I'll alter some of the content relative to your price range...... As an avid kayak angler, I feel I can offer several tidbits of information based upon personal experience and having paddled a variety of different kayaks. My first piece of advice is to browse the various kayak forums for information and reviews on different kayak styles and models. Second, check out your local kayak shop and get several hands on days to check out the various models. Third, schedule a demo or check with other kayakers in the area (the forums are great for this) and meet up with a few of them to try out theirs. If you do this, make it a point to take a notepad with you in your car, so that you can summarize your experience when you are done. All of these pieces of information will go a long way ot helping you make your decision. With that said, your initial thoughts on a SOT (Sit On Top) over a SINK (Sit INside Kayak) are correct relative to safety, but SINKs have their place and are very useful (the Wilderness Pungo 120 and Jackson Kayak Daytrippers are favorites of several people I know). The one factor that is often overlooked and in my opinion the most critical is COMFORT!!! If you sit in a kayak in the store and are uncomfortable within the first few minutes, imagine how you are going to feel after an hour? 2? 4?, etc...... The only way to truly figure all this stuff out is paddle as many different varieties as possible in different water conditions. You mentioned the OK Tetra 12 and the Redfish 12 - have you paddled or sat in either one of these kayaks? I can tell you that they are completely different from one another. Additionally, the factory seat on both kayaks is not much and will need to be upgraded which lends itself to additional funds being spent. With that said, the next step is to take into consideration your current fishing style and future desires or styles you will make an honest effort or investment in pursuing. What I mean here is what is your preferred style of fishing you do 75-80% of the time? If you are a fly fisherman, then your kayak choices may differ from someone who is a live liner and soacks minnows all day long, just like it would differ from someone who fished tidal creeks and large saltwater bays and sounds - kayak length will be a huge factor here. Here are some of the factors about you to consider: 1. Fishing equipment - are you a gear junkie that carries everything you own or can you scale back to 2-3 rods with a couple tackle trays and maybe a binder or bag for soft plastics. 2. Physical abilities - any limitations in range of movement, flexibility? Shoulder, back, knees, foot arches, etc. are all considerations that factor into which kayak to decide upon. 3. Method of transporting the kayak - do you have a truck? If not, then you might need some form of rack system for the top of your vehicle. Additional costs to keep in mind. 4. Method of storing the kayak - it is not recommended to just leave any kayak on the ground or hard flat surface. It is also not advisable to leave it out in the sun unprotected. 5. Method of launching the kayak - not all locations have a dedicated hand launch or ramp close, so you may need a cart of some form to transport your kayak to the water's edge. Also, unless you have afriend that will be fishing with you, you won't have anyone to help you load or unload the kayak! 6. Additional safety equipment required - a Class III PFD (required), a properly sized paddle, a handheld VHF radio (saltwater only), a light visible from 360 degrees, cold water gear if you plan on fishing in water temps below 60 degrees and air temps below 60, etc. 7. Other accessories - paddle leashes, rod holders, rod leashes or floats, crate or tackle storage of some form, kayak straps to secure the kayak, etc. When it comes time to start narrowing down your choices, it is time to start thinking about the various styles of kayaks and their uses. There are several models out there in your proce range that you could consider.....Keep in mind the models listed are just a sampling of ones to look at....... Jackson - Coosa, Cuda 12 or Daytripper (SINK) Wilderness Systems - Tarpon 100/120/140, Commander 120 (hybrid), Ride 115, Native Watercraft - Manta Ray 11/12 (best factory seat on the market in a SOT), Slayer 12, Ultimate 12 (hybrid) Ocean Kayak - Trident 11/13, Tetra 10/12, Scrambler or Drifter (used most likely) NuCanoe - Frontier, Classic(it really is a canoe at heart and has no scuppers or automatic bailing system like other hybrids) Mad River Canoe - basically a rotomolded canoe, not really a kayak. KC Diablo Paddlesports Emotion Mojo Moken Hurricane - Phoenix 120 or Skimmer 120 Perception (older Tarpon mold) - Pescador or Sport Caster (Gander and Dicks sell them) Pompano 120 - West Marine branded older Tarpon mold Ascend - Bass Pro Shops branded (tends to be a little heavy) Field & Stream - Dick's Sporting Goods brand (decent reviews from various forums that I have read - not sure on durability) If you are diligent in your testing sessions, you will notice that certain platforms will transfer to various bodies of water with little or no limitations. Now, if you are cost conscious, there are several options to consider: Demo kayaks - your local kayak store will have last year's models and the ones they rent out or use at demo days at a deeply discounted price. Craigslist - winter time is the perfect time to get one used - this is the time of year when people learn they need more space in the garage and are not as interested as they were in summer. You had mentioned that you would rather not rig the kayak yourself. I can tell you from personal experience that most angler models or pre-rigged models are not really laid out for individual tastes. For many folks, the location of rod holders is a personal preference that pre-rigged doesn't satisfy and cannot be changed for the most part (technically it can but requires additional plastic and a plastic welder). The best method to determine where you want rod holders is to paddle a stripped down kayak and take one rod and a jar of vaseline with you. Coat the butt cap with a dallop of vaseline before you launch. While sitting in the kayak facing forward, grab the rod and mimic the act of stowing your rod in a rod holder. This entails you trying to place the rod behind you without turning your body completely around. When you think you have it right, tap the butt end of the rod to the area of the kayak and the residue of the vaseline will remain on the hull as a reference point. When you get back to shore, you can take a permanent black marker or a small piece of duct tape and mark the spot. With that said, the best method to rig your kayak I have seen and still provide yourself with the ability to change your layout is via the use of a new kayak accessory called the GearTrac - it is a track based accessory that allows you to interchange various rod holders, fish finder mounts, camera mounts, etc around your kayak. I currently have two GearTracs installed on my hull with a third mounted atop my crate assembly. I am getting ready to install two more but will be using the new GT90 smaller profile series just released. I currently have mine setup to handle my FF, camera mount and a rod holder up front, a camera pole on the crate, and the new tracs will hold two trolling rod holders right behind my seat. The beauty of the GearTrac setup is that you can change your configuration on the water if you find something doesn't work the way you had planned. Check out the various accessories and products at the main site - http://yakattack.us You can also see how I have setup my kayak using these accessories here: http://froggin4bass.blogspot.com/2012/02/time-to-get-in-gear.html If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. Hope you find all of this helpful. Good luck.

That is actually good advice, I almost tore my bicep trying to remove a battery a few months ago (stinks getting old). Better advice is move on down to Fla so you don't have to winterize any more....

Worthwhile clarification... To me, fishing is either done for food or for fun. I'm not fishing competitively, so there's just expenses in the hobby - no profits. Therefore, like any hobby, do what you enjoy. My grandfather used to fish a worm-and-bobber only because it reminded him of being a kid in the mountains of NC. Likewise, if anyone just enjoys fishing [insert bait or tactic here], have at it! However, if what you enjoy is catching fish, odds are you will have to learn to vary your presentations and setups in order to produce more consistently. Bottom line: Have fun. If you're not having fun, change it up!

No problem. Matt is a great guy and an awesome guide. If you really want to learn and not just get on fish, then he is the man to hire. One of the things that impressed me was that he doesn't fish unless he's experimenting with a new bait or technique. He won't use the same bait as you off the front of the boat and hog prime spots like another guide I've hired. If you ever come out to Cali you should give him a call. Surprisingly, many of his clients are from out of town. We just hired him to help us with our tourneys at Clear Lake and we plan to hire him again next year to help my partner and I learn more about our local waters. On another note, two of the fish in my avatar were caught on the Cali Swim Jig at the lake where they were conceived, Clear Lake, CA. Matt says that he catches fish as small as 1-2 pounds on the bait, but I've never caught anything smaller than 3.5lbs on it!

I don't think Mr. Allen's rig is too big or bad in any way. I just feel that I would get catch a lot more fishing using his idea and just downsizing it. The problem is fish just aren't as big in the lakes I fish. If I catch a legit 3lber I am happy, that's a large fish for the lakes I fish. So I would rather downsize it, catch a greater # of fish, and maybe hook on a big one too. I will check out those other products since I do like the action of their EZ SHAD. The big hammer's look nice and are priced well. What size flipnswim have you used and what do you think is best to imitate a bluegill and sunfish? What length big hammer would you consider using and would imitate a bluegill and sunfish best? Never seen a bait like that. Look's interesting I think I'll give one a shot. I like the idea of being able to work it slow and still have a lot of action. That can be helpful in using different techniques, since there is many ways that this rig can be fished. Or so says Mr. Allen lol Thank you. Yes, how Mr. Allen describes he says he uses a 3/4oz Dirty Jig made specifically for this technique. I have not decided on the weight I will downsize too, but will be less than a 1/2 oz for sure. He said he chose 3/4 ounce so he could fish it through grass very well....etc. etc. I am thinking a Northstar flip and swim, or a siebert grass jig would work just as well, A lot of it depends on how the hook presents the swimbait. That I can compare through testing since I actually have the "California Swim Jig" The thinner body would be helpful for creating a smaller overall presentation. I will try out the sizes you mentioned. Plus the big hammer looks like it could do the job as well. I'll just buy a few different types from what everyone has mentioned and experiment with different weights and lengths to see if I can create a "Mini California SwimJig".

Hey Skeletor, I think the Keitech Swing Impact might be something you would like. It's got a real slender profile but it really puts out a thump.

For use in central Florida, the 'soft' paddletail minnow will rival any lure. We've fished both ‘hard’ and ‘soft’ swimbaits, but our best success has been with "soft” swimbaits. The reason is obvious, soft swimbaits are 'weedless' and can be fished smack in the best cover. They're also cheaper than hard swimbaits, which is a welcome bonus. For my own curiosity, I rated a small cross-section of different paddletail brands, based on the 3 paddletail properties I feel are most important: Low-Speed Action - Tail Vibration - Body Stability Low-Speed Action Low-speed action is arguably the most important property, because slow-rolling and swimbaits go hand-in-hand. The best paddletails remain active to a virtual standstill, and IMO those with tail lobes that stall-out at low speeds belong in the dumpster Tail Vibration Generally speaking, the greater the area of the tail-lobe the greater the throb and vibration. Thump and vibes are very important even in clear water, because underwater visibility is sharply reduced in dense vegetation. Body Stability Although tail-action is desirable, body-action is not. Excessive body action might appeal to the angler, but looks unnatural to the predator. The bugbear of the soft paddletail is "lateral instability", better known as "Tail-Wagging-The-Dog". .Axial rotation is also unnatural, but is not as noticeable as sideward wagging. In the shootout below, the 3 lure properties above are rated from 1 to 4: 4 = Excellent (12 = Perfect Total Score) 3 = Good 2 = Fair 1 = Poor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ .............................................SWIM MINNOW SHOOTOUT BIG EZ (Gambler) Low-Speed Action..........4........Excellent.....(Tail-action persists to a virtual standstill) Tail Vibration..............,....4........Excellent.....(Very large tail lobe) Body Stability..................4........Excellent.....(Stability is further enhanced by flank-rigging) TOTAL SCORE............12 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SKINNY DIPPER (Reaction Innovations) Low-Speed Action.........4........Excellent.....(Tail-action persists to near standstill) Tail Vibration..................3........Good..........(Medium-sized tail-lobe) Body Stability.................4........Excellent....(Some axial rotation) TOTAL SCORE............11 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SPLIT-BELLY SWIMBAIT (Berkley) Low-Speed Action.........3........Good............(Tail quits a tad before standstill) Tail Vibration..................4........Excellent......(Big vibes) Body Stability.................3........Good............(Noticeable lateral shimmy) TOTAL SCORE............10 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PADDLETAIL SWIMBAIT (Basstrix) Low-Speed Action..........2........Fair..............(Tail-action fizzle is the downfall of the Basstrix) Tail Vibration..................4........Excellent......(Big vibes) Body Stability..................4........Excellent......(Debatably the most stable soft paddletail minnow) TOTAL SCORE............10 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- HOLLOW-BELLY SWIMBAIT (Berkley) Low-Speed Action..........2........Fair..............(Tail quits too soon) Tail Vibration...................4........Excellent......(Our top producer in 2009) Body Stability..................3........Good............(Slight 'tail-wagging-the-dog' at high speeds) TOTAL SCORE.............9 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EZ SHAD (Roboworm) Low-Speed Action..........2........Fair..............(Tail quits too soon) Tail Vibration...................4........Excellent......(Great throb) Body Stability..................3........Good............(Unstable at high speeds) TOTAL SCORE.............9 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BASS MAGIC (Lucky "E" Strike) Low-Speed Action..........2........Fair..............(Tail quits too soon) Tail Vibration...................4........Excellent......(Big vibes) Body Stability..................1........Poor.............(Seriously "unstable") TOTAL SCORE.............7 Roger