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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2012 in all areas

  1. I see about 300 reels come across my workbench each year. There is nothing I can tell that quantifies this statement. It's totally false - and I'm a Daiwa/Shimano guy. They all have issues based on usage that have to addressed down the road after heavy use. Daiwa pawl and worm gears, gear sets....Revo clutch kick plates and yoke posts, Shimano drag pads... To make a sweeping statement like that is totally false, in my experience. Some individual models are standouts for durability. A Daiwa Zillion or Advantage, Shimano Calcutta B, Chronarch B/D, Curado B, and older Revo S or Skeet Reese with centrifugal brakes are examples of well designed, long lasting reels.
    4 points
  2. Don't ever remember cooking it in anything other than a cast iron skillet or griddle.
    2 points
  3. Great post, chuck. To the OP, I can only stress this: GET SOME SEAT TIME IN! That will seriously help you in your decision.
    2 points
  4. The money going around is CRAZY!!! Or is it me, but 5 million a yr to Gomes, 3 yr mill to Ross a backup catcher, 40 mill deals for Napolii, pagan, and victorino...Pitt paying 17 mill to martin as has been????? Cmon these guys are getting paid waaaaaaaay too much for what they are or woulda been 3 or 4 yrs ago. What is hamilton gonna take? how do these teams afford it??? CRAZY
    1 point
  5. I use yellow superline and put red accents on it. That contrast makes it more visible in most lighting conditions.
    1 point
  6. Hey guys. Thanks for the kind words. Just to clear a few things up: Lunkerville airs on NBC Sports from January-June. Last year we aired re-edited re-runs from season 4 and 5. This January, we're airing an all new season 7, which is currently airing on WFN. Our WFN airings are 6 times a week, all year. We'll also be airing on Mountain Lake PBS and expanding to more PBS stations this year. Yes, we do a bit of creative editing in the shows sometimes, but that's our creative license. What we don't do is "fake catch" fish like some other shows. What you see is basically how the day went. It's real people with real fish stories. We start filming again very soon and will now be more of a multi-species show, with about 1/2 bass and 1/2 other freshwater species (with a pinch of salt thrown in). We're also revamping our website and will eventually offer past season's shows in full HD off your computer. The new season's shows will show up online after our NBC Sports airings. So, this current season will be available in July. Now, we do have a new title sponsor: South Bend, and it's a big deal for us. But the show is staying the same and we won't be hawking goods left and right like the other shows. You will see their product and logo quite a bit, but we are not changing the format of the show. If anyone has any questions, ask away. And thanks everyone for watching the show! PS. Thanks John and Paul for your terrific kayak presentation at the NYBASS seminar. TOP NOTCH!
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. A henpecked man got tired of his wife constantly picking on him, so he started playing poker on friday nights with his buddys just to get some relief. After he came home she'd start right in on him again. After several weeks went by, he came home early one friday night about 9:30. His wife asked him how come he was home early. He told her: "You need to pack your bags and go to Herb's house, I lost you to him in the card game tonight." His wife became furious and started to give him [beeep]. She said: "Just how could you do such a thing!?" He replied: "It was the hardest thing I ever done.... I had to fold with four aces."
    1 point
  9. Pull up a chair and get comfortable, this is going to be a little long winded........ I posted the majority of this content in another thread but I'll alter some of the content relative to your price range...... As an avid kayak angler, I feel I can offer several tidbits of information based upon personal experience and having paddled a variety of different kayaks. My first piece of advice is to browse the various kayak forums for information and reviews on different kayak styles and models. Second, check out your local kayak shop and get several hands on days to check out the various models. Third, schedule a demo or check with other kayakers in the area (the forums are great for this) and meet up with a few of them to try out theirs. If you do this, make it a point to take a notepad with you in your car, so that you can summarize your experience when you are done. All of these pieces of information will go a long way ot helping you make your decision. With that said, your initial thoughts on a SOT (Sit On Top) over a SINK (Sit INside Kayak) are correct relative to safety, but SINKs have their place and are very useful (the Wilderness Pungo 120 and Jackson Kayak Daytrippers are favorites of several people I know). The one factor that is often overlooked and in my opinion the most critical is COMFORT!!! If you sit in a kayak in the store and are uncomfortable within the first few minutes, imagine how you are going to feel after an hour? 2? 4?, etc...... The only way to truly figure all this stuff out is paddle as many different varieties as possible in different water conditions. You mentioned the OK Tetra 12 and the Redfish 12 - have you paddled or sat in either one of these kayaks? I can tell you that they are completely different from one another. Additionally, the factory seat on both kayaks is not much and will need to be upgraded which lends itself to additional funds being spent. With that said, the next step is to take into consideration your current fishing style and future desires or styles you will make an honest effort or investment in pursuing. What I mean here is what is your preferred style of fishing you do 75-80% of the time? If you are a fly fisherman, then your kayak choices may differ from someone who is a live liner and soacks minnows all day long, just like it would differ from someone who fished tidal creeks and large saltwater bays and sounds - kayak length will be a huge factor here. Here are some of the factors about you to consider: 1. Fishing equipment - are you a gear junkie that carries everything you own or can you scale back to 2-3 rods with a couple tackle trays and maybe a binder or bag for soft plastics. 2. Physical abilities - any limitations in range of movement, flexibility? Shoulder, back, knees, foot arches, etc. are all considerations that factor into which kayak to decide upon. 3. Method of transporting the kayak - do you have a truck? If not, then you might need some form of rack system for the top of your vehicle. Additional costs to keep in mind. 4. Method of storing the kayak - it is not recommended to just leave any kayak on the ground or hard flat surface. It is also not advisable to leave it out in the sun unprotected. 5. Method of launching the kayak - not all locations have a dedicated hand launch or ramp close, so you may need a cart of some form to transport your kayak to the water's edge. Also, unless you have afriend that will be fishing with you, you won't have anyone to help you load or unload the kayak! 6. Additional safety equipment required - a Class III PFD (required), a properly sized paddle, a handheld VHF radio (saltwater only), a light visible from 360 degrees, cold water gear if you plan on fishing in water temps below 60 degrees and air temps below 60, etc. 7. Other accessories - paddle leashes, rod holders, rod leashes or floats, crate or tackle storage of some form, kayak straps to secure the kayak, etc. When it comes time to start narrowing down your choices, it is time to start thinking about the various styles of kayaks and their uses. There are several models out there in your proce range that you could consider.....Keep in mind the models listed are just a sampling of ones to look at....... Jackson - Coosa, Cuda 12 or Daytripper (SINK) Wilderness Systems - Tarpon 100/120/140, Commander 120 (hybrid), Ride 115, Native Watercraft - Manta Ray 11/12 (best factory seat on the market in a SOT), Slayer 12, Ultimate 12 (hybrid) Ocean Kayak - Trident 11/13, Tetra 10/12, Scrambler or Drifter (used most likely) NuCanoe - Frontier, Classic(it really is a canoe at heart and has no scuppers or automatic bailing system like other hybrids) Mad River Canoe - basically a rotomolded canoe, not really a kayak. KC Diablo Paddlesports Emotion Mojo Moken Hurricane - Phoenix 120 or Skimmer 120 Perception (older Tarpon mold) - Pescador or Sport Caster (Gander and Dicks sell them) Pompano 120 - West Marine branded older Tarpon mold Ascend - Bass Pro Shops branded (tends to be a little heavy) Field & Stream - Dick's Sporting Goods brand (decent reviews from various forums that I have read - not sure on durability) If you are diligent in your testing sessions, you will notice that certain platforms will transfer to various bodies of water with little or no limitations. Now, if you are cost conscious, there are several options to consider: Demo kayaks - your local kayak store will have last year's models and the ones they rent out or use at demo days at a deeply discounted price. Craigslist - winter time is the perfect time to get one used - this is the time of year when people learn they need more space in the garage and are not as interested as they were in summer. You had mentioned that you would rather not rig the kayak yourself. I can tell you from personal experience that most angler models or pre-rigged models are not really laid out for individual tastes. For many folks, the location of rod holders is a personal preference that pre-rigged doesn't satisfy and cannot be changed for the most part (technically it can but requires additional plastic and a plastic welder). The best method to determine where you want rod holders is to paddle a stripped down kayak and take one rod and a jar of vaseline with you. Coat the butt cap with a dallop of vaseline before you launch. While sitting in the kayak facing forward, grab the rod and mimic the act of stowing your rod in a rod holder. This entails you trying to place the rod behind you without turning your body completely around. When you think you have it right, tap the butt end of the rod to the area of the kayak and the residue of the vaseline will remain on the hull as a reference point. When you get back to shore, you can take a permanent black marker or a small piece of duct tape and mark the spot. With that said, the best method to rig your kayak I have seen and still provide yourself with the ability to change your layout is via the use of a new kayak accessory called the GearTrac - it is a track based accessory that allows you to interchange various rod holders, fish finder mounts, camera mounts, etc around your kayak. I currently have two GearTracs installed on my hull with a third mounted atop my crate assembly. I am getting ready to install two more but will be using the new GT90 smaller profile series just released. I currently have mine setup to handle my FF, camera mount and a rod holder up front, a camera pole on the crate, and the new tracs will hold two trolling rod holders right behind my seat. The beauty of the GearTrac setup is that you can change your configuration on the water if you find something doesn't work the way you had planned. Check out the various accessories and products at the main site - http://yakattack.us You can also see how I have setup my kayak using these accessories here: http://froggin4bass.blogspot.com/2012/02/time-to-get-in-gear.html If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. Hope you find all of this helpful. Good luck.
    1 point
  10. The last few weeks flukes for bass have been my weapon of choice, bear in mind I'm in South Florida and the bite is starting to pick up here. I mainly use them in canals and work them very close to the shoreline, since I'm fishing from an elevated position and do not use a bullet weight, they basically become a topwater bait. I subtly walk them or retrieve them a bit on the slow side with very little of an erratic motion, this technique has worked well given the shallower waters I fish.
    1 point
  11. That combo you have there seems great for both freshwater and saltwater fishing. For freshwater, it seems like webertime says to be a for swimbaits with braid and the rod able to handle up to 5 oz (manufacturer says so, but it probably can handle more). If you're a fan of the alabama rig or umbrella rig that took the entire fishing industry by storm, then you can invest in some of these and go catch a limit with one cast. For saltwater, that combo is perfect for any type of fishing. Here in southern California, calico bass and halibut would be fun to fight on that combo you have there. You can use it for bottom fishing as well, but you might just have to downsize the braid to like 30lb test and have like 20 yards of flourocarbon leader or so. It's a versatile setup for heavy uses. I myself actually like the shimano teramar rods more than the crucial series just because of the balance and the handle on the teramars are longer so it's easier to cast big baits. But thats' just me. Anyways, this is my opinion on what I think suits your rod best.
    1 point
  12. ever read all the responses in a post and wish you had the knowledge of those posting...This site does this to a man. I kinda felt smart reading it though if that counts despite not knowing 99% of it. I will eventually have to learn the manliness way of reel maintenance after reading articles like this and then grow a beard and then go hunt something. Just plain awesomeness.
    1 point
  13. I love my cumara rods but that color is a big drawback for me...looks like a bionic blade
    1 point
  14. I also got a kick out of the Mary Kay box!
    1 point
  15. Joe and Joe!!! Yep. I know where that is. I've fished Harris lake before in new hill
    1 point
  16. What you call cast/drag, I call horizontal jigging; casting a jig like you would a T-rigged plastic worm. The difference is a T-rigged plastic worm floats off the bottom slightly and the hook isn't molded onto the weight. When a bass strikes a T-rigged worm, the weight can slide away from the worm and a bass will hold onto the worm or swallow the worm given enough slack line. A jig different, the weight is molded onto the hook and covers about 1/3rd of the hook shank, so the weight goes into the basses mouth all the way back to the crunchers and the bass then clamps down onto the jig. The jig doesn't feel right and out it goes! The bigger the bass is, the quicker it is rejected. It doesn't matter if the bass is in Texas, California or anywhere else, the bigger the bass, the more difficult it is to get a hook set. What is different in California is our gin clear water and small size lakes in SoCal, Nor Cal the lakes are larger, the water off color and good cover, more like bass water across the country. I logged my first 100 DD bass in '73 and stopped fishing with live bait and bed fishing in '71, both personal choices and have strong commitment to fish lures for bass. I have been blessed to catch several FLMB over 15 lbs on jigs and 2 that exceed theTexas state record; 19.3 & 18.6, both on jigs. For me it has been very challenging to catch DD bass on jigs and have spent well over 40 years trying to detect the very suttle strikes. So we have very different experiences. I have had a few freight train strikes on jigs, 2 that I can recall. Most strikes are a light tick, some are nothing, like the jig line was cut off...you must stay focused! Tom PS; night bass fishing is very different, most jig strikes at night are aggressive and easy to detect!
    1 point
  17. Curt is my all time favorite I think. He holds the first three places for passing yardage for Super Bowls.
    1 point
  18. It's during the thawing process that they turn to mush, the flounder meat is very pourous and retains water, the meat itself will crystallise, before you freeze another fillet, press the fillet with a paper towl first, then if you don't have a vacuum sealing system, take the fillets to a friends house or the local butcher shop and vacuum seal the freezer bags.
    1 point
  19. I personally think that it's the new gear material. I have the gen3 winch and it wasnt nearly as smooth as the older model but has become with use.
    1 point
  20. Throw some 70lb Daiwa Samauri braid on it and keep some 20lb CXX on hand to attach leaders if needed. Great set up for 8" Hudds, BBZ's, and Lunker Punkers. That being said the reel may be a bit small for the baits in the rod's weight range, you should be fine though for occasional use. Or you could probably sell the Curado and get a Cardiff 300 for little no extra outlay of $$$. The 300 size will still be fine in the salt, but give you more capacity (ablity to run ~100yds of 20lb mono) and have a bit more strength in the reel.
    1 point
  21. I haven't fished Casitas or Castaic in Cal. so those fish may be different animals! Someday, I hope to give'em a go and maybe fish with you West Coast Guys I quit site fishing 30 yrs ago and found that I could catch more big fish if I concentrated on where they live most through out the year. The majority of my jig fish are Cast/Drag. My home waters are in Tx and many of them have FLMB, so many of my Bigger fish are FLMB. Also, I learned to jig fish in Fla waters back in the 60's and early 70's spending weeks on the water there several times a year. IMO, EXPERIENCED anglers with the proper tools in low wind situations, who maintain constant contact with their jig, can detect up to 98% of the strikes, pick-ups etc. regardless of the size of the fish. The difference between small fish and large fish are normally noticable but the bites are detectable just the same. For a FACT, many of the hardest and most jarring strikes are BIG fish. Many of the bigger fish are NOT so finicky as some may suggest. Big Fish are BIG EATERS and the most prolific feeders of their species. The real trick is finding them. If a fish is taking and rejecting your jig, it's because they questioned it's appearance or validity as food and made a quick ck on it, because they don't like the taste/scent, because they felt pressure from the line, or from aggravation to kill it or move it out of their comfort zone Back to the basics: When casting jigs, I only use jigs that are designed to hold the bait in an upright position during the drag or bottom bumping process. This presents my Rage CRAW or Lobster trailer UP off of the bottom which is easier for a fish to see and bite without getting a mouthful of mud, muck or rocks. It also puts the CRAW in a defensive posture which can generate a more aggressive strike from the fish.. All of this information is simple to learn and makes common sense... so there is no real art to jig fishing, only many different styles and presentations in jig fishing. IMO, if you can find the fish, with the proper tools you can learn the Cast/Drag jig technique in but a few moments.
    1 point
  22. You keep chicken eggs in there i presume? Caviar is no different, except it's food for trout, not people.
    1 point
  23. I agree with some of the comments that were provided to your topic, and here's my two cents... The versatility of jig fishing makes it an important tool in most any fishermans arsenal and for any size or type of predator fish desired, especially BASS. The variety of jig styles, shapes and sizes are produced for the many different uses and presentations that are effective. The only thing difficult to learn about jig fishing is the multitude of presentations and styles of fishing that are available with them. Any single style of jig fishing is relatively EASY to master, so don't let one particular style of fishing intimidate you or keep you from attempting to learn it! Swimming a jig is effective at times and the style of trailers can be changed, such as short compact, long and narrow, or shapes according to the preferred prey species at any given time. You can basically retrieve them much like a spinnerbait with occassional twitches, drops and/or retrieve speed changes depending on the fish's request. Also at any desired depth. Jigs can also be flipped/pitched, used to punch matted grass, casted and worked slowly through most any type of cover or fished vertically over certain types deeper structure if necessary. You can use skirted jigs or naked jigs with any variety of trailers and soft plastics including Big worms and swimbaits, mounted on them depending on what you find the fish are wanting most. To help answer some of your specific questions: When is the proper time to use a jig? There is never a bad time to have a jig tied on, except when you have found a more successful pattern on another bait style. Often when you've caught several fish in one area on other baits and the bite slows, a jig can pick up those fish that wouldn't eat your first choice. How do I work the lure? Depending on your chosen type of water or structure being fished, would determine your style of jig and presentation or best retrieve style. For flipping /pitching, make accurate pitches to your target and keep the water entry or splash to a minimum especially in calm conditions. In windy conditions, it's not as important and the splash may even help with the bite. Allow the bait to fall on a slack line paying close attention to the line for a twitch or pause prior to it reaching the bottom. Any pause or twitch will often signal a bite from a suspended fish. Reel down to feel the fish and swing on it, keeping the rod back at full pressure until the fish exits the obstruction. If the jig reaches the bottom without a bite, lift the rod tip to feel the jig and pause for a second with a tight line. If there is no fish, short jump the jig once or twice allow to settle back to the bottom and repeat the process of feel etc. If no fish, retrieve the jig slowly back up through the limbs with light twitches and falls over each limb as it slides over. The speed of the fall is extremely important and the weight of your jig, size and type of line used, amount of wind present, size and bulk of the trailer, or the amount of drag represented by the trailer action are most of the determining factors for fall rate... Faster fall is often better for this presentation because the bite is normally a quick reaction strike. As usual, water clarity, amount of daylight and wind conditions will make color more important and require tweaking as needed. Football jigs are excellent for fishing large and medium SMOOTH rock, small rock, shell, gravel, or hard bottoms. The benefit to Football jigs is their ability to keep the trailer in an upright position as it is moving across the bottom and the amount of noise or bottom disturbance that results when it is slowly walked or drug along the bottom. This noise is very beneficial for fish that aren't actually in or near the jigs path back to the boat. The noise and vibration produced will attract fish from several feet or even yards away and will cause them to come and investigate the commotion. This is especially important in low visibility conditions or deep water. It's VERY important to let the fish tell you their preference on presentation or retrieve style. MOST often, the fish want a SLOW short drag or hop then PAUSE presentation, to allow the fish to locate the jig and STRIKE. The pause is EXTREMELY important when dragging jigs slowly across the bottom, and has proven to be the ticket in 90% of my jig fishing experiences over the last 45 yrs. When I know that the fish are there, my pauses and speed of the jig movement will SLOW even more! Have you Ever Fished for a Cat? I'm talking about a HOUSE CAT! Pull a small toy on a string and pause.... after several series of CAT attacks, you'll notice that often, the "It's ALIVE" movement or action gets the cats attention and the PAUSE makes him POUNCE. When the cat is hesitant to attack, small motion with longer pauses is better. Swinging or dragging the toy near the cat causes a reaction strike but if it's further away, they may move in quickly to close the distance and STALK it. I wish that I could always make a perfect presentation or cast in front of a Bass or drag it near their nose EVERYTIME, LOL. Definitely, more fish are caught after the jig touches the bottom (unless flipping/pitching) and more often during the slow bottom bumping process that ensues. Of course you can catch bass that are suspended in open water with jigs making the fall rate and appearance even more important... locating these types of opportunities can sometimes be a big challenge. An easier solution, is once you find the depths that the bass and bait are holding or suspended at, you can then then find bottom structure at that same depth to fish which may make your fishing more successful. For large or medium JAGGED rock and just about ANY casting situation, stand up head designs like Siebert Outdoors Brush jig or Moaner hooks Predator jig hold the trailer in a stand up position and snag much less than a football style which is preferable in many situations. They're great for Flipping as well, which makes them extremely versatile. Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? IMO, YES and the more action the trailer can provide on the fall or slowest of retrieve speeds the better, regardless of water temps. Here are my thoughts on this: Although it is not what many have preached in the past and possibly different than many still believe today, I have found from my many yrs of jig fishing along with fishing beside some of the best in the business, that regardless of water temps, the additional bait action on the fall or with minimum movement of the rod tip, makes a bass eat faster! I think that while fishing jigs, soft plastics or other slow style bottom bumpers in cold conditions when fish are more dormant, it is your speed of movement of the bait... or the speed that you cover any given piece of water that determines your bite success and not because of less action from your chosen bait. When you find fish in colder conditions, it's important to be closer to them with your presentation for a longer period of time, to allow them to become aware of your baits presence, and any additional action of your bait will only speed up this process. In fact many times, once a given group of fish are disturbed by one of them eating, often the rest of them wake up and become more eager to eat as well! It's about your bait or presentation disturbing their slumber enough to get them to strike, and high action baits along with a slower more diligent presentation will do exactly that... again IMO. It's important to look at past thought processes, types of baits that were available to the market that had no action other than what was achieved through rod tip movement. Also look at the variety of popular cold water baits that are effective. Then dissect the process to determine why. A quick example is crankbait and Rattletrap style baits which are popular in cold water conditions, can be heard from extreme distances and disturb a bass' slumber from afar only to get smashed when it arrives in front of the fish... The fish is alerted previously from the noise and vibration that is coming ever closer and bringing a fish out of it's slumber, then they EAT when it arrives. How fast was the action on that bait? A bit more information on the advantages of trailers: Jigs may represent any number of prey species or opportunities to a bass or other predator fish, so the style of trailer can be easily adjusted or changed to accommodate the need or look. You can choose matching colors or contrasting colors and switch from one to another easily, which is often needed to TWEAK the bite to Optimum results. 1) In CLEAR water and conditions, the use of clearer lines like flouro, or smaller dia.is important. Also the fish can see the bait better from further away. As they close in to investigate to see if it is REAL, more natural colors and some kind of trailer action during the even the slowest of rod tip or retrieve motion can gain the visual priority causing the fish to commit to the bite more easily. 2) In low light, stained or deep water conditions: The noise, vibration, action, size or profile of your total jig and trailer combination should be increased to make the bait felt, seen or heard easier. This also gives cause for a slower more diligent presentation to give the bass time to locate your bait. FYI , Braid isn't great for sharp rocks or super clear water and conditions, but will work great otherwise and especially when flipping/pitching is necessary. There are many more details that could be added that are important to understand about jig fishing, but hope this helps to answer your questions
    1 point
  24. Way back when I was fishing Wednesday Night Pot Tournaments in my 14ft jon boat I remember a top FLW Pro showing up almost every week in his wrapped boat. He grew up on the lake and made his name fishing there. I would crank up my 8hp motor and head over to my spot and do what I do. I always chuckled when I would see him running back and fourth in his boat and I really enjoyed taking his money. Bass Fishing is one of those few sports where it can be a level playing ground. That little green fish is what makes it level. We all have to go out and catch them. But you can't let the fact that they are Pro's get in your head. Come up with a game plan that can catch the weight that is needed to win on that particular lake. Then go out and execute and nobody can beat you.
    1 point
  25. Sandbagging? I think you're confused. Sandbagging is someone that underperforms intentionally. In the case of the pro that phones in his registration to fish a tournament that he would possibly not otherwise fish, I see it on capitalizing on opportunity. I see it no different than me fishing open tournaments on lakes that I fish on a tour or circuit. If it means I have the shot at making a few extra bucks and I'm confident that there's an established pattern I could do well on, well, I'd be foolish not too. Insinuating that because he's fishing the tour he's automatically better than others is somewhat ridiculous. I have been, and will be again, beaten in many an open tournament by someone that fishes a local lake or fishes only the occasional tournament. I fish with a handful of guys that are every bit as good as anyone on any tour, and they have no desire to fish tournaments. Some of them would give any, single angler on any tour a run for their money. Just because the tour pro is fishing it doesn't mean he's going to win it. I've beat many higher level pros fishing lower level tournaments. It's still fishing, and there's still chance and luck. The only difference is the entry fees. If the rules allow it, I see no reason for anyone to whine about it.
    1 point
  26. This is probably my go to technique, Matt Allen's swim jig videos really helped me in getting into swimming a jig. In terms of jigs I originally started using Dirty Jjigs finesse/California swim jig exclusively paired with Roboworms EZ Shad. As I got more comfortable and familiar with this rig I decided I need to get a rod/reel dedicated for this technique, I opted to go with a 7'11" MH XF Shimano Cumara, topped off with a Lew's tourney pro 5:4:1. I find most anglers are using a high speed ratio for this technique, I use the exact opposite, I slow roll swim jigs over grass 90% of the time,the 7'11" lets me get those extra long casts over big flats is where I find this bait really shines. With a 7:1:1 I find I'm fishing way to fast, I really had to slow down to perfect this style of fishing. Now a days I'm still using Dirty Jigs, but have also started using NorthStars Flip&Swim jig,I rely on X-zone Swammers as my trailers, really the only trailer use now, very similar to a keitech. Swimming a jig has really eliminated the use of a spinnerbait for me, it's just so much for productive, doesn't get hung up, and puts big fish in the boat.
    1 point
  27. Hey guys. I see tons of posts on here about anglers attempting to get sponsored and/or hook up pro-staff positions. I thought I would shed some light from a bait company's perspective. I get a lot of emails from people wishing to get sponsored. Most just want free stuff.. and trust me.. we can very easily identify what it is you are really looking for, so be careful when communicating with a company. Also, what many of you may not realize, is that companies are in constant communication with one another. I am personally friends with many bait company owners, and most are not even remotely located close to me. We communicate daily and often talk about people who have approached all of us, looking for the same thing. Keep this in mind when you send emails or letters to companies of the same products. Once we find out you contacted all of us, most likely you will be dismissed. What not to do: -Don't send emails with bad grammar. This is the BIGGEST no-no you could possibly do. Not capitalizing letters or use of incorrect punctuation will dramatically decrease your chances. -With current technology the way it is, Facebook is not an unprofessional way of approaching a company. I interact with many anglers via facebook. And although some companies will frown on this, many don't care on what form of communication you use. HOWEVER, do NOT contact a company on facebook, when your page contains beer, girls, and disorderly conduct. That includes inappropriate statuses, pictures, etc. This will NOT help your cause. So if you feel your facebook page is not up to par, do not contact anyone through facebook. -Do not email or write a company and immediately tell us what kind of discount you want. If we work out a deal, that part will be considered and decided by us. -Do not approach a plastics company and include a resume saying you are sponsored by a plastics company!! I know you guys think that is obvious, but you would be surprised! -Do not contact a company when you have no interest in their product. If you are a spinnerbait fisherman and have never fished a jig, don't contact a jig company. Now things you should ALWAYS do: -ALWAYS be familiar with the company's product. Include something in the email/letter about one of their products and something that you like about it. -ASK QUESTIONS!!! Ask about our products. Be interested! -List all the ways you will help us. I know this has been said before but the main question we want answered is, "How does sponsoring you help bring us more business?" You have to 'wow' us. How do you stand out from everyone else? When we read your resume, we want to be impressed. Don't make up anything in the resume.. We do check. It also doesn't hurt to attach attach a few pictures. We want to know what you look like. Once you do make Pro Staff, constantly keep in touch. If we can't get a hold of you or haven't heard from you in months. You might be forgotten about. Also, if you really really really want to suck up. Hooking up a deal with a bait company and a local tackle store will grant you Pro Staff for life. That is the ultimate. Last but not least, BELIEVE IN THE COMPANY! Please don't just try and rack up as many as you can. Contact the companies you truly believe in. You will help them a lot more than a company you don't. I hope this has helped somebody. And if anyone wants to try your resumes on me, let 'er rip! sweetwaterbaits@yahoo.com Good luck and happy fishing!
    1 point
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