Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 11, 2009 Super User Posted April 11, 2009 Anyone fish tubes for smallies in deep water? I'm talking 30 - 50+ feet. I'd like to try this, but the largest internal jig set up I can find is 1/4 oz.. I'd like to try something around the 1/2 oz. size (or more!), but I can't find a weedless set-up to help me out. I suppose I could just put it on a standard weedless bass jig? Yes...no? Quote
bass crazy Posted April 11, 2009 Posted April 11, 2009 I have not tried this but I would think a regular jig would work. Mayby even a drop shot rig with a heavier weight. How about a heavy texas rig. Please keep us posted with what works for you. Good Luck. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted April 12, 2009 Super User Posted April 12, 2009 Just curious, why weedless? I love using Bite Me! Big Dudes in 3/4 oz. My deepest is from about 42 FOW, though the fish probably were taking it at about 25-30 feet down. I drag tubes in 30 FOW all the time. Yes, I do lose some, but its worth it. Quote
chevy2junk Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Check out the Owner brand tube hook weight set ups .Their weedless and work good and have a wide variety of weights. Quote
reo Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 I am also wondering about the weedless thing. I fish deep tubes alot on Erie but rarely go out when the drift dictates anything over a half oz. and also use bite me jig heads. Quote
Lipped M Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Hello Crestliner,not sure about putting it on a standard jighead,I would think that you'll loose most of the baits profile,could cause it to nose dive a bit to much too.Then again the finned freaks will hit anything some days?I found these for ya,maybe they're what your looking for:Falcon Lures Flipping Tube Jigheads comes in 1/8 - 3/4oz. and has a weedguard. I have the www.,not sure if its ok to put in here,I'll shoot you a PM if you need it.G/L down under! Quote
Super User Jig Man Posted April 12, 2009 Super User Posted April 12, 2009 I've fished a lot of tubes 50' deep. I use a 3/8 oz head because that is as large as my mold will make. If you can't find any, shoot me a pm and we will talk. Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 12, 2009 Author Super User Posted April 12, 2009 Thanks for some great input folks! The reason I'm looking for a more weedless (snagless actually) presentation with the tube is that I'm fishing a large, deep river (CT River) in northern MA. The bottom is filled with log jams and other snags which gobble up open hooks. The current is stiff as well. I usually slip the current to get my offering down, but I've yet to find something that will get me down there and keep me in the "zone". And the smallies in this section of the river are BIG and they love tubes! I will certainly give some of your suggestions a whirl this season. Will keep you posted. Thanks! Quote
reo Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Thanks for some great input folks! The reason I'm looking for a more weedless (snagless actually) presentation with the tube is that I'm fishing a large, deep river (CT River) in northern MA. The bottom is filled with log jams and other snags which gobble up open hooks. The current is stiff as well. I usually slip the current to get my offering down, but I've yet to find something that will get me down there and keep me in the "zone". And the smallies in this section of the river are BIG and they love tubes! I will certainly give some of your suggestions a whirl this season. Will keep you posted. Thanks! I gotta say that I have zero experience with log jams that deep but would think a pegged t-rig would be the ticket as they are as snagless as it gets in the shallower wood that I do fish. It would also solve the weight problem. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted April 12, 2009 Super User Posted April 12, 2009 Wood is tough, but I would also think a pegged t-rig would work out well. Also consider an Arkie jig. Quote
Super User bilgerat Posted April 13, 2009 Super User Posted April 13, 2009 Follow me on this one. It works well for me. This may appear long winded, but it's quite simple: First, get some of these in the size that best fits your tubes - http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0030842112947a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=0310501&cm_ite=0030842112947a Now, crimp split shot on the shank to get the weight you want. Crimp as many or as little as you need. If you use split shot with the little 'ears', you can trim them off with side cutters. To rig the tube: Straighten the wire guard in line with the shank. Insert the wire guard up through the bottom (open) end of the tube. Poke it through the top of the tube head from the inside. Make sure you're in the center. Pull the shank through the tube body until the hook eye just pokes out the front of the tube. A dab of super glue here will help keep the tube body from sliding out of place. You can lube the splitshot with attractant or mineral oil to help the tube slide on easier. Everything is concealed inside the tube except the weedguard. The weight can be concentrated at different points along the shank to adjust the angle of fall; nose first, horizontal, etc. Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Super User Posted April 13, 2009 Follow me on this one. It works well for me. This may appear long winded, but it's quite simple: First, get some of these in the size that best fits your tubes - http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0030842112947a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=0310501&cm_ite=0030842112947a Outstanding technique! I think I'll be giving it a try real soon! THANKS! Now, crimp split shot on the shank to get the weight you want. Crimp as many or as little as you need. If you use split shot with the little 'ears', you can trim them off with side cutters. To rig the tube: Straighten the wire guard in line with the shank. Insert the wire guard up through the bottom (open) end of the tube. Poke it through the top of the tube head from the inside. Make sure you're in the center. Pull the shank through the tube body until the hook eye just pokes out the front of the tube. A dab of super glue here will help keep the tube body from sliding out of place. You can lube the splitshot with attractant or mineral oil to help the tube slide on easier. Everything is concealed inside the tube except the weedguard. The weight can be concentrated at different points along the shank to adjust the angle of fall; nose first, horizontal, etc. Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Super User Posted April 13, 2009 Not sure why my reply didn't post? Anyway....This was an outstanding suggestion, bilgerat! I think I'll be giving this a try real soon. THANKS! Quote
Super User J Francho Posted April 14, 2009 Super User Posted April 14, 2009 Follow me on this one. It works well for me. This may appear long winded, but it's quite simple: First, get some of these in the size that best fits your tubes - http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0030842112947a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=0310501&cm_ite=0030842112947a Outstanding technique! I think I'll be giving it a try real soon! THANKS! Now, crimp split shot on the shank to get the weight you want. Crimp as many or as little as you need. If you use split shot with the little 'ears', you can trim them off with side cutters. To rig the tube: Straighten the wire guard in line with the shank. Insert the wire guard up through the bottom (open) end of the tube. Poke it through the top of the tube head from the inside. Make sure you're in the center. Pull the shank through the tube body until the hook eye just pokes out the front of the tube. A dab of super glue here will help keep the tube body from sliding out of place. You can lube the splitshot with attractant or mineral oil to help the tube slide on easier. Everything is concealed inside the tube except the weedguard. The weight can be concentrated at different points along the shank to adjust the angle of fall; nose first, horizontal, etc. Crest, you did, but you must have typed it in the middle - I've done it LOTS of times here, LOL. When you quote a post, the reply box doesn't automatically scroll to the bottom. You type, think you are at the bottom, but its really in the middle. Anyway, great replies here that I'm also going to look at. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted April 14, 2009 Super User Posted April 14, 2009 I never fish that deep, but my rig will still work: simple weedless T-rig, unpegged. This is for bottom fishing, but you lose the spiral drop. This is very effective for me, but you might find the inserted weight is a better choice for you. This option is Tex-posed, too. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44436____SearchResults 8-) Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 14, 2009 Author Super User Posted April 14, 2009 RW....that's what I've attempted recently. Problem being, you can't get 'em bigger than 1/4 oz.! I believe I'm looking at needing 1/2 oz. or more to accomplish my goal. Going to try re-thinking my drop shotting for this situation - a suggestion by Tin. Thanks JFranco! That's what I did. Quote
fishnjohn Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 This may sound strange to alot of you but I tried this and had some success. 25 to 35' with a swimbait hook. I have hooks for my Money Minnows put a tube on it and in gives it a totaly different fall and action. Quote
macbass1 Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 here is another idea and we do this a lot in deep water carolina rig the tube....and go as heavy as you want we usually go 3/4 or 1/2 Quote
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