How to Set a baitcaster Inquiry

[Speedy Turtle]

Need the opinions of very knowledgeable bass anglers. Many videos/website say 2 different things about how to set a baitcaster. One way they say to set it is to stop the spool from shaking back and forth and then adjust the brake on the left. The second way is adjusting the tension knob on the right so that the bait just starts falling at a certain tension and then adjusting the brake. Which way is the right way? I have been setting my baitcasters both ways for the last couple years and just wanted to clarify which way is technically right or if it really doesn't matter. Want to make sure I'm not accidentally damaging the reel or losing out on casting/control due to setting it wrong

[Jig Man]

What kind of reels do you have?

[LrgmouthShad]

Others more knowledgeable on this than I am. Only thing I have to add is that the second way that you describe works well for preventing backlashes, but does not maximize your casting distance. For casting distance, you want tension lower than the method prescribes with the brake set as an aid as needed to your thumb pressure. Low tension + good use of thumb = maximum casting distance

[Speedy Turtle]

2 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

What kind of reels do you have?

Quantum smoke s3 pt, daiwa tatula sv tw103, shimano curado dc, and lews tournament pro baitcasters

[12poundbass]

I’ve always used the second way as a starting point and adjust as I become comfortable with the reel and when I change lures. 

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

21 minutes ago, Speedy Turtle said:

Need the opinions of very knowledgeable bass anglers. Many videos/website say 2 different things about how to set a baitcaster. One way they say to set it is to stop the spool from shaking back and forth and then adjust the brake on the left. The second way is adjusting the tension knob on the right so that the bait just starts falling at a certain tension and then adjusting the brake. Which way is the right way? I have been setting my baitcasters both ways for the last couple years and just wanted to clarify which way is technically right or if it really doesn't matter. Want to make sure I'm not accidentally damaging the reel or losing out on casting/control due to setting it wrong

 

14 minutes ago, Speedy Turtle said:

Quantum smoke s3 pt, daiwa tatula sv tw103, shimano curado dc, and lews tournament pro baitcasters

Cant really say for the DC.

All the others Id set the tension loose and use however much brake is needed to control spool.

 Loose to me is a senko dropped from 12" falls easily quickly hits the ground and spool keeps spinning freely multiple revolutions.

Id say both your examples have too much tension for my liking.

[Deleted account]

I don't know about all the others, but the DC Shimanos will interface with the Covid nano chip, no user input required...

[slonezp]

Not familiar with the reel(s). Does it only have an adjustable external brake or does it also have internal brakes that can be adjusted?

[WRB]

Glenn’s BR site video on how to cast a bait casting reel works.

Spool shaft end play should be minimal and adjusted using the lure weight.

Brakes have nothing to do with spool end play, it has to do with spool speed and adjusted to suit your casting skills and set 1 time accordingly.

Tom

 

[slonezp]

6 minutes ago, WRB said:

Glenn’s BR site video on how to cast a bait casting reel works.

Spool shaft end play should be minimal and adjusted using the lure weight.

Brakes have nothing to do with spool end play, it has to do with spool speed and adjusted to suit your casting skills and set 1 time accordingly.

Tom

 

Agree and disagree. Set 1 time accordingly providing you are throwing similar weighted baits. BUT adjustments may be necessary depending on wind.  Thumb control isn't 100%, 100% of the time

[Bird]

Knob on the right until the bait starts to fall as a starting point and somewhat fail proof. 

[WRB]

44 minutes ago, slonezp said:

Agree and disagree. Set 1 time accordingly providing you are throwing similar weighted baits. BUT adjustments may be necessary depending on wind.  Thumb control isn't 100%, 100% of the time

Depends on skill level, I set the braking system to minimum looking for maximum casting distance 1 time for each different reel. Nothing works 100% of the time regarding casting reels over runs. The different line needs to be factored.

Tom

 

[slonezp]

1 minute ago, WRB said:

Depends on skill level, I set the braking system to minimum looking for maximum casting distance 1 time for each different reel. Nothing works 100% of the time regarding casting reels over runs. The different line needs to be factored.

Tom

 

Agree.

Lead baits need minimal adjustment at best. I find when throwing cranks or jerks, into the wind, I have to slow things down a bit to prevent backlash.

As far as line, I tend to stick with 12lb-14lb test fluoro on my baitcasters. My home water has an average depth of 4ft and a max of 30ft. I don't need to use heavy line to get baits to go deeper. I can adjust my pauses and retrieve if I'm fishing elsewhere.

[suzuki2903]

Dc reels you only set the spool tension so the side to side play is barely gone per their instructions…. Also you will have to thumb it still as the lure hits the water, these aren’t cool proof.

 

daiwa you set with just a tad of side play in the spool and leave it like that for any weight etc per their instructions….

 

regular reel is set with a tad of spool play no matter the weight and adjust brake accordingly. Never a issue but that’s also not beginners friendly 

[FryDog62]

13 hours ago, WRB said:

Spool shaft end play should be minimal and adjusted using the lure weight.

This is a good point. I was talking with a local bait shop that repairs reels of all makes and models recently. They said since the introduction of the SV spools from Daiwa (OP mentioned he has a Tatula SV TW) that a lot of fishermen have gone overboard loosening up the spool shaft so it has a lot of play. The thought is that the SV spool itself would overcompensate if adjusted really loosely. He said it does to a degree, but the down side is with that much play you eventually wear out the pinion (hard if not impossible to fix he said). They are repairing a lot of pinion/gears not only Daiwa these days, but other brands where the trend has been to go loose and create play. He still recommends that you adjust the spool shaft so it moves, but then tighten up just enough that there isn't any play. 

 

Half my reels are adjusted as described above and admittedly about half have just a slight bit of play in them. But now I really listen for any sign the spool shaft is banging/clicking against the end when casting/reeling.  

[ATA]

I know for DC reels, you dont play with spool tension at all, but if you change the factory setting, you must always tight the spool tension to minimize the spool play(you shouldn't hear the knocking), once you do hat only thing is use the break depending on line you using, Braid fluorocarbon ir mono, Also if you want to do skipping you put the break all the way(4 or 5 depending on what kind od DC reel you have).

about non DC I am doing spool tension and break to half(like my abs Toro Beast for heavy glides and swimbaits) usually and in some case I do 1/4 break(like on my 13 fishing Z Reel).

[A-Jay]

Like many here, I've been casting revolving spool gear effectively for a while.

My current casting reel arsenal consists of reels of assorted ages.

From I guess, 10 years to one or two years old for the 'newest'.

Each one is adjusted almost exactly the same - or at the very least set to get the same result.

No Overruns.

 I certainly still get my share but it's always user error.

The set up process and explanation are covered nicely by @Glenn right here:

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html

 

Backlashes are just part of the deal.

Besides being a PIA, they waste time & compromise line integrity.

None of which I'm a fan of. 

So while I may never eliminate them, I am totally willing to sacrifice a little distance to help keep that deal under control.

Today's better reels all come with a decent casting control system,

and while my thumb is always in play, I am still not too proud to use it.

If I need a 'longer cast', I move closer.

YMMV

A-Jay

 

 

[CrashVector]

This is oversimplifying it a bit, but a good general rule of thumb:

 

If you are getting backlashes during the first half of the cast, then go up on your spool tension.

 

If you get backlashes on the last half of the cast, adjust your brakes.

[fishwizzard]

15 hours ago, Deleted account said:

I don't know about all the others, but the DC Shimanos will interface with the Covid nano chip, no user input required...

 

If only, my nano chip must be busted as all I get are mexican radio stations.  But only on clear nights though.  

[the reel ess]

If the reel comes with centrifugal brakes under the side plate, it's usually 6 of them. Engage 3 of the 6 in a staggered pattern. Adjust the cast control on the right (right handed reels) so that the lure drops slowly when you push the thumb bar. If your reel has magnetic cast control (left side) set it a bit higher than halfway, then adjust it down as you experiment. You can adjust any of these settings as you gain experience. The first one I would adjust would be the mag brake. I always leave half the centrifugal ones engaged on any reel that has them. One universal truth is heavier lures work better with baitcasters. Also, using the right length, action and power rod for the technique will cut down on some backlashes and allow longer casts. And it's not a sin to stop the spool with your thumb.

 

Also, go to YouTube and watch videos about fixing a backlash. It works.

[Deleted account]

13 hours ago, WRB said:

Depends on skill level

This ^. 

 

[the reel ess]

1 minute ago, fishwizzard said:

 

If only, my nano chip must be busted as all I get are mexican radio stations.  But only on clear nights though.  

Me gusta la moosica! 

[Deleted account]

2 minutes ago, the reel ess said:

Me gusta la moosica! 

LOL. A Navy buddy (who happens to be Mexican) is all about the technology, and has Alexa, and all the gizmos at home and in the cars linked. He has his texts set to speech. I helped him with his recent move, when I was down in Norfolk in September, so I knew his routine. I texted him "Alexa, play la cucaracha" when I knew he was driving, and it played in his car. I made his house really cold too...

Before I get nasty mail, he deserved it, He didn't know who Steve Winwood was. Much better music appreciation now... 

[Choporoz]

Heard it on the X?

 

To OP, I have mostly Smokes and Tatulas.  Most of the time, I prefer spool tension to allow smallest (side to side) play.  Then I do most tuning with dial opposite handle.

  Some situations dictate adjustments before even trying to backlash:

- skipping situations 

- after sunset

- changing to lighter or less 'aerodynamic' lure

- incoming wind

[Darth-Baiter]

 Like to let the lure hit the ground when I let it drop.  I’m setting the spool up so that when the lure hits, the spool stops spinning.  
 

that’s my jumping off point.  It’s a super conservative setting. 
 

my best backlashes are at lure “ takeoff” not landing.  Well my ugliest birds nest are.