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Posted

The good news is that I found a workable GoPro head strap and figured out the best angle to record myself shore fishing.  I haven’t used the camera in years and see that I need to clean the lens, but the picture is clear enough to show the catch.


While I have the video, I was wondering if some of the experienced anglers here could critique my technique.  How am I doing?  Was the hookset good?  Did I reel in correctly?  I’m getting better all the time, but I believe most of the folks on this forum are better fisherman than I, and I’d appreciate any advice you’d have about improving my technique.

 

Thanks 
 

https://i.imgur.com/KkkmZmN.mp4

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

It looks a little light on the hookset to me. But it was obviously good enough. My dad taught me to "cross their eyes" with the hookset, just to be sure. It's not as necessary when using light wire or treble hooks. Now, when you start using jigs or flipping hooks, you have to set it hard. The thicker the hook, the harder the hookset.

 

I should also mention you don't need to set circle hooks or finesse hooks hard. Just reel into the fish and it will do the rest.

  • Like 3
Posted
24 minutes ago, the reel ess said:

It looks a little light on the hookset to me. But it was obviously good enough. My dad taught me to "cross their eyes" with the hookset, just to be sure. It's not as necessary when using light wire or treble hooks. Now, when you start using jigs or flipping hooks, you have to set it hard. The thicker the hook, the harder the hookset.

 

I should also mention you don't need to set circle hooks or finesse hooks hard. Just reel into the fish and it will do the rest.

Thanks!

In addition to working well with plastic worms, I find my #4 EWG hooks are great for catch and release, as they are very easy to remove.  I tried out one of my favorite crankbaits in this lake and was able to unhook it, but in the past I've killed panfish with deeply embedded treble hooks that I was unable to remove without tearing through the fish. No trauma, as they were all headed for the frying pan anyway, :) but my Bass fishing now is all catch and release, and I don't want to kill or harm any of the fish.

I'm off to YouTube to find some vids on how to safely remove treble hooks.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, Pkfish49 said:

Thanks!

In addition to working well with plastic worms, I find my #4 EWG hooks are great for catch and release, as they are very easy to remove.  I tried out one of my favorite crankbaits in this lake and was able to unhook it, but in the past I've killed panfish with deeply embedded treble hooks that I was unable to remove without tearing through the fish. No trauma, as they were all headed for the frying pan anyway, :) but my Bass fishing now is all catch and release, and I don't want to kill or harm any of the fish.

I'm off to YouTube to find some vids on how to safely remove treble hooks.

Bass are pretty resilient. You just don't want them to swallow the hook. If that happens, there's a thread on one of these pages about how to deal with it. If all else fails and you kill it, eat the bass. They taste alright. When your hobby is sticking hooks in fish, a few are going to get hurt.

  • Like 1
Posted

I C&R too.  I mash down the barbs on ALL hooks except for Jigs and Frogs.  My hook up and landing rate hasn't suffered.

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Posted
7 minutes ago, Jaderose said:

I C&R too.  I mash down the barbs on ALL hooks except for Jigs and Frogs.  My hook up and landing rate hasn't suffered.

I can’t remember the last time I kept a fish but I don’t care enough about them to proactively do something that could be very well cost me a PB...

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I really don't like the idea of barbless for bass, though I do go barbless for steelhead.  It's just easier to let them shake off when you get them to your feet rather than get your hands wet and pull out the hook when it's sub freezing. I don't run into that bass fishing, and I always want a grip and grin pic for a big fish.

 

As for the OP's video, The only thing I do differently is move the fish with the rod, and reel back down, always keeping pressure on the fish.  It works for me.  You can find an exaggerated version in videos with salt anglers bringing in fish when deep drop fishing using stand up tackle.  I don't winch the fish in, I use the rod to move them, and take up the slack created with the reel.  It works really well with lighter spinning gear.

  • Like 7
  • Super User
Posted

Looked like you did fine to me.  The hook set was, perhaps, a little light but that will depend, in part, on what kind of bait you are using and if you need to really "cross their eyes."  You kept the rod high which is good.  As Mr. Francho said, try to move the fish more with the rod than with the reel.  With a  small fish, you can get away with it but with a large, strong fish, you won't be able to turn or control a fish with the reel AND it can cause line twist.

  • Like 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted

Agree with the hookset being light for the bait you were fishing. Fine for moving baits with a treble hook but you'll never get away with that on a bigger fish with a soft plastic.

 

Keep the rod in closer to your body so it's easier to control it. Sticking it out that far, if a big fish surges, it's going to move your arms and potentially gain that extra distance it needs to reach a snag and be gone. Plus, your arms will fatigue faster if the fight is an extended one.

 

Try not to reel the fish so close to the rod tip, and never lift a fish with the rod like that. 100%, you will break a rod doing that in the future if you haven't already. From the bank, it's easiest to get the fish close enough to where you can drag them up to the shoreline and then lip them instead of lifting them with the rod.

  • Like 5
Posted
13 hours ago, Bluebasser86 said:

Keep the rod in closer to your body so it's easier to control it. Sticking it out that far, if a big fish surges, it's going to move your arms and potentially gain that extra distance it needs to reach a snag and be gone. Plus, your arms will fatigue faster if the fight is an extended one.

 

My advice as well. Keep your rod hand tucked down and manipulate the rod more with your wrist and elbow, not so much your shoulder.

  • Super User
Posted

In aviation they say any landing you can walk away from is a good landing, and I guess any fish that you land is the same, but similar to some above, I'd suggest reeling down and a firmer hookset, how much depending on whether using braid or mono. As far as fighting the fish, keep your rod elbow on your side, or close to it with the motion coming from your elbow on down, and pivoting at the waist as required while applying pressure and reeling in the line as you gain it with the rod, visualize pumping the rod while keeping the same bend in it. N/A for bass, but if the fish exceeds the max pressure of the tackle, let it do it's thing, and resume as soon as it lets up.

download.jpg

Posted
18 hours ago, Aaron_H said:

My advice as well. Keep your rod hand tucked down and manipulate the rod more with your wrist and elbow, not so much your shoulder.

 

To add to this, if the OP were to choke up on the rod a bit (hand at or in front of the reel instead of behind it), he'd be better able to control the rod tip, which leads to more confident hooksets and better control of the fish once hooked.

  • Super User
Posted

That's a good point and many beginners screw up the grip.  It looked like he had two fingers on either side of the reel foot, which is fine.  I go with three.  It seems like I gain a tiny bit of control, and it just feels better to me.

Posted

Not bad, and as others have stated, you got the fish landed.

 

I like a quick, sharp hook-set, that drives the hook in to the fish mouth. I want to feel the weight of the fish on my line to make sure that hook is good and set. 

 

When reeling in fish, I keep my rod at least 45 degree angle...that way I can adjust quickly. If I sense a big fish is on, and going to make a run to deeper water, I can lower the rod tip and give him some slack. If the fish is running towards me to ease tension on the line, and potentially throw my lure, I can raise rod and keep pressure on him. 

 

As others have said, I raise rod to move the fish, then lower rod and reel.

 

When fish get close to the shore or boat, I raise the rod tip and use it as a shock absorber...again, if the fish makes a run, I can lower the rod and give him room. With the rod tip high, it acts like a shock absorber. 

 

I've seen many anglers keep a low rod or even point at the fish as they approach the boat...and have seen many fish make a run and snap the line. Keep the rod tip high, and keep tension on the fish.

 

Hand placement on spinning rods:  I hold the rod in front of the reel seat and ride the handle against my forearm if the fish is big. I'm using my bicep to power the fish in, not my wrist. If it's a smaller fish, I keep the same grip and instead of using my bicep, I just work it with my wrist.  Gives me best of both worlds.

 

Hop on Youtube and watch professional anglers videos...mimic their techniques.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
9 hours ago, J Francho said:

It looked like he had two fingers on either side of the reel foot, which is fine.  I go with three.  

I've heard of cats with six toes....

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