Battery question

[Texasfisherman]

Hi, 

 

I have a 2010 nitro x5 bass boat and looking to upgrade my battery system. I have a motor guide trolling motor and an optimax 115 motor. Currently I have 2 batteries —both interstate batteries—one cranking and one deep cycle so I’m guessing my trolling motor is a 12 volt motor. If I upgrade my trolling motor to a minn Kota 24v motor I know I must add another baterry to my system but will I have to also change the plug out in the front for trolling motor?  Also change out the on board charger?  Any help would be appreciated here

 

thanks

[jbsoonerfan]

I would say this. You will need to add 2 new batteries for your TM. I say new because it is best if you are using batteries of the same age on your TM. Yes, you will need a new plug which will also mean you need to run new wire to the bow. IMO, running the correct wiring is paramount in a good system. You can keep your cranking battery if you wish. Now you have 3 batteries so it would be best to run a 3 bank charger. That's the simple answer. It can get much more complex and expensive though.

[K1500]

Does your 12 volt motor so the job? Are you looking for more battery life or more power? If you just want more battery life I believe you should be able to wire two 12v batteries to feed the trolling motor in parallel, providing double the battery life without having to rewire the trolling motor feed. 

[Captain Phil]

There is a world of difference between a 12 volt and a 24 volt trolling motor. 12 volt trolling motors are for canoes, not bass boats like yours.  Bite the bullet and upgrade to a Minn Kota 24 volt motor.  Buy two new deep cycle batteries and run new wires. Install an onboard charger and you will be good to go. Your frustration level will decrease substantially.

[Way2slow]

As mentioned, if you just need more run time, adding a second battery in parallel will help that.  That should almost double you run time.

It you want a more speed and run time, then the 24V upgrade would be required.

For the upgrade, the batteries will need to be connected in series.  Series batteries need to the be same, same type, same size and same age or you will damage the new battery you stick in it.  

You will need to upgrade your charging system.  You can buy a new 3 bank charger,, or you can use your existing charger to charge the two TM batteries and buy a single bank charger to charge the cranking battery.

Check your cables going from the batteries to the TM, as a minimum, they need to be 6ga marine/battery cable.  I prefer 4ga.

I always use Anderson SB-50 connectors.  There are a number of different connectors you can use but Anderson connectors have been the industrial standard for many years, they are very good and inexpensive. 

You will also want to make sure you have as a minimum 50 amp circuit breaker.  The Bussmann or MinnKota like this in a 60 amp is the one I would recommend.    https://www.wholesalemarine.com/minn-kota-60-amp-waterproof-circuit-breaker/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlJXkm6e87gIVkfLjBx2K6As9EAQYAiABEgLTDvD_BwE

Usually you can find the Bussmann 60 amp a lot cheaper, this link was just to show you.

[jbuchanan]

I agree with the responses on upgrading to 24v system for your boat. As well buying new batteries dedicated to trolling motor from same manufacturer and age. Check the current wire gauge running to your trolling motor plug as well as the plug specs. Being a bass boat it might be pre-wired already to push a 24v setup, but that all depends on the model TM you are looking to install they all seem to have different electric draws at wot. Not sure your current 12v TM model but some of them 12v TMs pull more amps than a 24v from what I have researched. Bigger the wire gauge (lower awg is bigger gauge) the less power loss from battery to trolling motor.

 

Another idea might be to move the current TM battery to be used for your cranking battery depending on the draw the outboard needs. Many of the deep cycle batteries now a days are dual purpose bats. Might be an idea if you are running a good deal of electronics thru your cranking battery. 

[gim]

23 minutes ago, jbuchanan said:

Many of the deep cycle batteries now a days are dual purpose bats.

Deep cycle batteries are intended to be used with an electric motor, not for cranking purposes.  If its labeled as a deep cycle, don't use it for anything other than the bow mount.

 

There are batteries out there that are intended for dual purpose.  They are labeled as such and can be used for cranking or deep cycle purposes.  But if its intended to be used as deep cycle, it should only be used for that.

 

As jbsoonfan stated, if you upgrade you'll want 2 deep cycle batteries that are new.  You don't want to use one old one and one new one.

[GaryH]

Txfish. Keep in mind when messing with your boats batteries and wiring it’s not the area you want to take short cuts. If the cost to do it right is more than your willing to spend, then you’ll be better off leaving it as it is. 
Last thing you want out on the water is a boat fire. Gasoline tends to go boom.

[Texasfisherman]

18 hours ago, K1500 said:

Does your 12 volt motor so the job? Are you looking for more battery life or more power? If you just want more battery life I believe you should be able to wire two 12v batteries to feed the trolling motor in parallel, providing double the battery life without having to rewire the trolling motor feed. 

I am looking to upgrade my trolling motor to a new minn Kota motor with spot hold and I think they only come in minimum of 24 volt 

10 hours ago, Way2slow said:

As mentioned, if you just need more run time, adding a second battery in parallel will help that.  That should almost double you run time.

It you want a more speed and run time, then the 24V upgrade would be required.

For the upgrade, the batteries will need to be connected in series.  Series batteries need to the be same, same type, same size and same age or you will damage the new battery you stick in it.  

You will need to upgrade your charging system.  You can buy a new 3 bank charger,, or you can use your existing charger to charge the two TM batteries and buy a single bank charger to charge the cranking battery.

Check your cables going from the batteries to the TM, as a minimum, they need to be 6ga marine/battery cable.  I prefer 4ga.

I always use Anderson SB-50 connectors.  There are a number of different connectors you can use but Anderson connectors have been the industrial standard for many years, they are very good and inexpensive. 

You will also want to make sure you have as a minimum 50 amp circuit breaker.  The Bussmann or MinnKota like this in a 60 amp is the one I would recommend.    https://www.wholesalemarine.com/minn-kota-60-amp-waterproof-circuit-breaker/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlJXkm6e87gIVkfLjBx2K6As9EAQYAiABEgLTDvD_BwE

Usually you can find the Bussmann 60 amp a lot cheaper, this link was just to show you.

Thank you for the response. So if my wiring to trolling motor plug is 4 gauge then I don’t need to run new wiring just change the plug out and add the fuse between the battery and plug?  What’s the lowest gauge to safely run 24 volt system..6 gauge?  

[Way2slow]

Six gauge is the recommend minimum..  The large the gauge number the smaller the wire.  It should have the wire size on the insulation.   Safely is not the objective behind using the larger wire, it's the internal resistance and voltage lose at the motor that's the driving factor.  You could safely run eight gauge wire for up to 40 amps, but the performance would suffer

With that said though, if you go to a gps motor, they are usually at least 80lb thrust.  The amp draw for that size motor would be too much for eight gauge, and would not even be safe.  Six gauge would be the absolute minimum size cable, and that would probably have enough drop to affect performance.  I would strongly suggest you go with the four gauge.

As the old saying goes, you gotta pay to play and this upgrade will not be cheap.  If you try to cut corners to save a dollar, it will cost you in the long run.

[Texasfisherman]

Thanks for reply. Not overly concerned with cost—I mean I’m not gonna put lithium batteries in my boat but want to make sure what I do put in there is gonna perform well. I personally can’t believe the boat only came with a 12 volt trolling motor so I’m excited about upgrading. Looked at the Ulterra but concerned over the stow and deploy mechanism and longevity of it. Since I fish alone a lot I like the push off and have it stay put and come to me but not sure it is that important for me to pay another $1000 for it plus another feature to break down. I plan on researching good AGM batteries and running new cables and breaker for a new 24 volt motor. 

[Way2slow]

It's all about marketing and sucking you in with a low advertised price.  They put the bare bone minimum size outboard, TM and anything thing else so they can put them so they can make it look like it's a great deal for the size boat.  The buyer has to be knowledgeable enough to know what they really want and need and do the upgrades before the purchase.  Which by the time they see the real price of the rig with the upgrades to make it a nice boat, they get sticker shock and think they can use it as is and upgrade in the future, at about twice the price.

They older you get, the greater the sticker shock.  When I was 16, I bought a new boat, a 14' runabout with a 65hp Mercury.  Boat, motor and trailer cost me $1,427, and that was all brand new.  When I built my first hot rod engine for my car in 1965 it cost me less than $500 for machine work, headers, cam, intake, carb, and everything.  Now it's almost $5,000 just for the cam and complete valve train assembly. So, think how I feel every time I want to do something now.  Of course, back then, if you were making $1.25 and hour, that' was about twice minimum wage.

[Texasfisherman]

17 hours ago, Way2slow said:

It's all about marketing and sucking you in with a low advertised price.  They put the bare bone minimum size outboard, TM and anything thing else so they can put them so they can make it look like it's a great deal for the size boat.  The buyer has to be knowledgeable enough to know what they really want and need and do the upgrades before the purchase.  Which by the time they see the real price of the rig with the upgrades to make it a nice boat, they get sticker shock and think they can use it as is and upgrade in the future, at about twice the price.

They older you get, the greater the sticker shock.  When I was 16, I bought a new boat, a 14' runabout with a 65hp Mercury.  Boat, motor and trailer cost me $1,427, and that was all brand new.  When I built my first hot rod engine for my car in 1965 it cost me less than $500 for machine work, headers, cam, intake, carb, and everything.  Now it's almost $5,000 just for the cam and complete valve train assembly. So, think how I feel every time I want to do something now.  Of course, back then, if you were making $1.25 and hour, that' was about twice minimum wage.

No sticker shock here. Bought this one used as my first boat I’ve personally paid for. At the time the deal was too good to pass up. 2010 Nitro with 115 optimax with low hours for less than the price of the motor alone—at the time in 2012—($10,000). Now I’m starting to rig it the way I want it to be—starting with trolling motor setup. 

[gim]

On 1/28/2021 at 6:50 AM, Way2slow said:

They put the bare bone minimum size outboard, TM and anything thing else so they can put them so they can make it look like it's a great deal for the size boat.  The buyer has to be knowledgeable enough to know what they really want and need and do the upgrades before the purchase. 

This is so true.  Look at almost any boat package out there and you will see that the outboard is smaller than what the boat is rated for.  Some of the aluminum bass boats come with an Edge trolling motor and a 3 inch color screen that only has sonar.  I can't imagine ANYONE who buys a boat keeps these stock items.