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Posted

I am planning on getting a folding pedestal seat for the bow but don't know much about them.

 

It seems they come in 2 sizes? 1.77in and 3/4in. What size is commonly used for a folding seat on the bow? I'm guessing 3/4?

 

I was thinking about getting one of these...

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/3/4--Pin-Posts--Power-Pedestal-Adjustable--w/-Seat-Mounts

 

What is the difference between power and manual?

 

Do most people go with threaded or non-threaded?

Posted

I have the threaded type power stand - up pedestal that I bought for my boat in 1996, and it still works. I would have been fine with the manual adjusting as  I don't adjust it anyways.

  • Super User
Posted

I would get a 3/4 inch base and pedestal without threads.  I have both threaded and non threaded.  The threaded work loose and are a pita.  The non threaded are easy to remove for better visibility when motoring. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Jig Man said:

I would get a 3/4 inch base and pedestal without threads.  I have both threaded and non threaded.  The threaded work loose and are a pita.  The non threaded are easy to remove for better visibility when motoring. 

Ok. Thanks.

 

Now I am kind of leaning towards Springfield Spring-Lock

http://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/spring-lock-clip-lock-series

 

What length post would you recommend? Since this will be for a folding chair I am thinking their "Sit down" post 13.5-20in.

  • Super User
Posted

That type is notorious for freezing up.  The 3/4 is way better.  I have had both.

Posted

I am planning to get a stand-up pedestal which i have to remove quickly and often.

Which model is better to acquire?

Springfield Taper-lock

Springfield Spring-lock

Attwoodmarine Swivl-Eze Snap-lock

Springfield KingPin 

  • Super User
Posted

I don't know about the others, but the KingPin is super-easy to pull out. I have that on my canoe seat...one good yank and it comes free.

  • Super User
Posted

I actually got the Wise unit. It has tabs at the bottom of the 'pin' that keep it from bouncing out. Takes that 'jerk' I mentioned to remove it. I don't use a pedestal, just the base and seat mount as it's used in my canoe.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SDH606U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the matching base

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SDH60FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I don't know if the Attwood locks in place, but if it doesn't, check the Wise line.

 

This pedestal has the 'lock tabs' at the bottom end like my 'shorty' one

https://www.amazon.com/Wise-8WD2000-3-King-Pedestal-11-Inch/dp/B00SDH60C4/ref=sr_1_120?crid=V5H59K4H1OLW&dchild=1&keywords=wise+pedestal+base&qid=1578189458&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=wise+pe%2Csporting%2C294&sr=1-120

You'd use the same base and seat mount.

 

Canoe shot showing the mounted seat

image.jpeg.cd53e13c6a68670d665b5dd2b2515d55.jpeg

 

  • Super User
Posted

You dont need one that locks.  Just get the 3/4” without threads.

  • Super User
Posted

Front pedistal seat post w/threads prevents the seat and post assembly comming out at high speeds or big waves. The seats dont't need threads. Agree the clip in posts can seize up and be very difficult to remove. Ranger boats had or have the clip in post as standard equipment for safety but can be a total pain in arsh.

Tom

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