Stephen B Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 1 minute ago, WRB said: I have only used Sunline Shooter FC since 1994 or 24 years and know what premium FC feels like and can't see any reason to use it for the lures the suggest he is using. Jigs and worms there is better feedback then premium mono because it has less drag coeffient in the water. Don't wonder how anyone ever caught bass using mono, it stretches too much, bass can see it etc, etc. Take a look at my 5 giant bass listed, all were caught on either 12 Trilene or 10 & 12 lb Big Game fishing jigs cast over 100 feet in 15' to 25' deep. The reason is the stretch ans sensitivity hype is BS. The Sunline JDM Sniper is $34 /82 TD spool! Tom Im referring to Super FC Sniper which is more affordable around $20 for 200 yards. I do agree to an extent about stretch and sensitivity being overhyped but I can tell a significant difference in bottom contact presentations sensitivity with fluorocarbon over mono. I've caught plenty of good fish on mono but that doesn't prove anything. No one is saying mono is useless it's just inferior in some aspects. I use mono all the time for many presentations/techniques. It just an individualized approach and decision people must make. Many people fish straight braid for everything, no one is right/wrong. 1 Quote
Super User WRB Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 I used Super Sniper in 7, 10 and 12 lb test for the past decade because the price of Shooter doubled and had the exact random knot failures as Shooter, Tatsu, Toray, Seaguar lines. The key using FC line is to retie knots every hour or after every descent size bass or after pulling on a snagged lure. If FC line is stressed it breaks. I still use FC for a few presentations, but very few. Tom 1 Quote
pauldconyers Posted November 5, 2018 Author Posted November 5, 2018 6 minutes ago, WRB said: I used Super Sniper in 7, 10 and 12 lb test for the past decade because the price of Shooter doubled and had the exact random knot failures as Shooter, Tatsu, Toray, Seaguar lines. The key using FC line is to retie knots every hour or after every descent size bass or after pulling on a snagged lure. If FC line is stressed it breaks. I still use FC for a few presentations, but very few. Tom Well Tom, for what I'm looking to do with this specific rod/reel what would you suggest using? Quote
ratherbfishin1 Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 Like what @WRB was saying, floro, once stretched doesn't "unstretch" or go back to its original as easily/quickly as mono will. For that reason you will have to be more cautious of your line and knot weakening and you will have to retie and even re-spool more often. This is what I've heard, I am not certain it is true though so correct me if I'm wrong. I would recommend any seaguar line but if you for some reason decide to go with mono instead +1 for 12lb big game, Love the value of that stuff. Quote
Super User WRB Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 5 minutes ago, pauldconyers said: Well Tom, for what I'm looking to do with this specific rod/reel what would you suggest using? I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size. Tom 2 Quote
Super User Catt Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 3 hours ago, WRB said: I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size. Tom Like Tom (just not as many) I've caught 35 double digit bass all on Berkley Big Game 15#. Berkley Big Game has superior knot strength, abrasion resistance, & shock absorption over fluorocarbon. The big selling point of fluorocarbon was it stretches less than monofilament that was until the test results were released. 1 Quote
Super User burrows Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 You might not need floro for the specific purposes that you will be applying it for, however if you feel like you want to try it , try it! Get some red lable 12-15 pound and give it a go your gonna have to try it out eventually for bottom baits or whatever else you want to apply it to. Quote
Global Moderator Bluebasser86 Posted November 5, 2018 Global Moderator Posted November 5, 2018 5 hours ago, WRB said: I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size. Tom Either 12 or 15 Big Game is what I would suggest as well and the line I use a lot of the time for the baits mentioned. Quote
maherme Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 I normally use Seaguard Red Label for FC and for me it works really good and the price is fantastic. In casting reel I use 12 and 16 lb normally. I have also used P-Line Edge FC (I think it is discontinued ?) and I was happy with it, but the price is higher and I think the quality is pretty similar. Quote
Super User MickD Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 17 hours ago, ratherbfishin1 said: I would not be using braid for cranks because then you risk ripping the hooks out of their mouths. You want the stretch to give you a little “forgiveness” and that is why people usually use mono of floro for cranks. Depends on the rod also. With a moderate action rod and a few feet of leader (mono or FC) braid works very well for cranks. I especially like my ML power moderate-fast action 7 ' spin rod (Rainshadow RX7 ISP 843) with 15 pound braid for small cranks up to Rapala DT6's. In the spring when SMB are fairly shallow, using small squarebills is effective and this outfit is ideal. Advocates of moderate action (crankbait) rods with mono or FC should try light braid-much better feel of the lure to detect weed fouling and strikes feel like strikes rather than snags. Quote
Super User Boomstick Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 I ran Berkley Trilene flurocarbon in 15lbs on a rod all year. The only problem I had was fishing in shallower areas, my bait didn't just hit the bottom but it dragged along the bottom. Quote
thinkingredneck Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 Seagar red label was fine. Mostly I use braid to leader, but honestly I agree with the above posts. I can't tell a lot of difference and may go back to mono when I change lines. Quote
Super User NorthernBasser Posted November 6, 2018 Super User Posted November 6, 2018 Are you planning on cranking in deeper water? Flouro will help get the crankbait down deeper than mono. Quote
Super User Angry John Posted November 6, 2018 Super User Posted November 6, 2018 Were in the slow season and it may be worth the time and effort to really check out the value in copoly lines. I feel like for me it has everything. My choice is YHB because its strong, has good knots and its sink rate makes it work really well for most things. I like to jack jig fish, so the knot strength does not let me down, its a slow sink line so it works extremely well for jerkbaits, which i find get pulled down on a long cast with fluorocarbon. Why spend big bucks on a perfectly suspending lure just to have a heavy line drag it down. Its cheap and has decent abrasion resistance. I use it for swimbaits, 15lb and a swaiver 168 will drag in a 6.5 no issue. The line is a little thicker so i fish it by diameter with 10lb being my most common size. No single line is perfect and you will have to try a line to understand how it fits into your fishing. The red label is cheap and not the worst grade of fluorocarbon but it wore badly for me. If your in the *** like FL or CA or TX maybe you might need over 12 but i almost never do unless i am fishing 2oz baits or over. Do what makes you happy... Quote
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