Spinning Reels, Straight Braid, and Shock

[Glaucus]

I use 15lb braid to an 8lb fluoro leader on my spinning setups. However I'm thinking of going down to 10lb braid and using no leader. The water I generally fish isn't super clear, and at 2lb diameter, a leader seems unnecessary. My question is, if I use 10lb straight braid, will I have a problem with the shock, or will I be fine? One of the benefits of a leader with braid - as we know - is shock absorption. I'm unsure if such light braid will have a shock issue.

[813basstard]

I fish a lot with 10lb braid with no leader. Main reason is with that light it’s hard for Fluoro to attach tightly to it. I’ve lost a couple fish due to this. One option could be going down in leader size but it’s been my experience that straight 10 braid is fine.

[MickD]

As I see it there are three things to consider: 1. Every time you change a lure (if tying directly to the braid, no snap) you will lose a few inches of your braid.  2.  Terminal knots using braid are more critical than with FC, meaning that some of the knots you may use for FC won't work with braid.  Most likely braid knot is the palomar, but there are others.  3.  Is 10 pound braid as abrasion resistant as 8 FC?

 

I doubt if fish will see your line, but you can camo it by marking it in a mottled fashion with a sharpie.

 

You can control the shock issue through proper handling of the rod.

[Dwight Hottle]

You need to compensate with either loosening your drag so it just barely slips on a hookset or utilize a moderate action rod to help absorb the shock of no give braid. 

[WRB]

Shock you mean impact strength and braid to FC leader and leader to hook or lure is the failure point. Braid is very strong regarding impact and knot strength so 10 lb braid direct to the hook or lure using 1 knot will be over 10 lbs, your 8 lb FC is currently under 7 lbs, or over 30% stronger with 10 lb braid direct. 

If you don't have any issues with braid fraying with a leader you shouldn't without a leader. The only downside is getting snagged and trying to break off the snagged lure or hook, remember you are now using 30% stronger line.

Tom

[Scott F]

I use nothing but 10 lb braid with no leader on all my spinning gear. I’m not using broomsticks for rods and I don’t own a moderate action rods either.  Shock absorption has NEVER been an issue. Not with crankbaits, plastics or any other lures.  I don’t rip hooks from a fishes mouth either. Today, I fished super clear water with line that was nearly white and very visible. None of the 20 plus smallies I caught seemed to care if my line was visable or not. 

[Smokinal]

I use 10 lb braid and 10 lb fluoro leader on all my spinning setups. I use the leader, not for shock, but for abrasion resistance. I fish all rocky water and braid will part in a pair of seconds if rubbed on rock.

[Bluebasser86]

I use 10lb braid with no leader a lot, I just tone down the hook sets. 

[thinkingredneck]

Setting the hook will become second nature.  However, as stated above, rocks will cut the braid, and so will shell.  Everyone talks about braid expense, but in the great scheme of things...

[BoatSquirrel]

Mr. Scott F- “line that was nearly white“...are you using Nanofil?  Thanks.

[Scott F]

1 hour ago, BoatSquirrel said:

Mr. Scott F- “line that was nearly white“...are you using Nanofil?  Thanks.

No, this line was Power Pro Superslick 8 that was brown to start but has lost most of its color, as braid does, and is now very pale.

I fish for smallmouth most of time, always in very rocky, lakes, rivers and streams and don’t have problems with abrasions. My lures will get snagged in the rocks, but I seldom  find that my line gets dragged over rocks where it will get damaged. 

[Darren.]

1) 10# braid is fine w/o a leader if that's how you want to roll.

Me? I use leaders 100% of the time to save $ in the long run.

In the past I've lost significant amounts of braid to snags, not

to mention cutting/retying all day. A leader will break on a snag

saving your mainline, and so forth.

 

2) Do not set the hook hard. Proper drag setting and rod choice

are essential. I lost a really nice bass once (10# braid + leader)

because I had forgotten to back my drag down after tightening

it to free a snag. The bass snapped my leader like it was a piece

of spaghetti before you cook it.

 

I always test it now before first cast to make sure I've got it set

properly - like @Dwight Hottle said.

[BankBasser]

I used 6lb or 8lb (mostly) Original Fireline for years on my spinning gear. This year, I tried using 10lb Power Pro with an 8lb fuoro leader and haven't noticed a difference in the overall number of fish caught. Although I thought at first being able to break off the line at the uni knot was a good way to save line/money, it only took losing a couple $6 lost lures to decide that wasn't the case. I'd rather replace a .75 bent hook than the whole $6 lure. Soooo, I'm back to straight Fireline. Straight Fireline has never presented a problem with hooksets. It's spinning gear with lighter/thinner lures/hooks. I just apply a little back pressure and the hooks basically set themselves. 

[Glaucus]

The main reason I'd not want a leader with 10lb braid is that I can't go with less than 8lb fluoro leader. Tying 8-10lb to 2lb diameter seems like asking for trouble??

[BankBasser]

Using a uni-uni knot never presented a problem with 10lb braid to 8lb fluoro, for me.