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Posted

okay, well i spent most of my life fishing saltwater, mostly redfish and trout. about a year ago i really started to get into fishing again, especially with artificials. i never really cared for bass, until i really started lure fishing for speckled trout, and the different lure techniques, along with what type of line and the shear intricate nature of the way people fish for fish for them really sparked a new found love for bass fishing after catching one behind my house using a saltwater paddle tail. ever since then ive really taken a liking to jigs and topwaters, but have yet to really get into a decent feel for a worm or crankbait type of stuff. but recently i have found myself really confused with the line problem. when i first started throwing a  baitcaster i threw mono, and i never really had a problem, but then i switched to 30#braid and i really loved it. ever since then i have thrown that, but recently i have wanted to learn this whole worm thing, and a lot of the water around me here in south mississippi is really clear. when i picked up the newly spooled fluoro rod though, i just didnt feel comfortable at all i felt like it backlashed easoeier than ever, and when i threw it it had a sort of slack feel to it. i just didnt feel like i had any kind of goood contact with this worm. im sure im doing tons of stuff wrong, but i catch tons of fish on jigs, flukes, and topwaters, so i know i can get this if i stick to it. but something has to give, what am i doing wrong? im fishing 20# fluoro and 30# braid at the moment, and i feel really good with the braid, but the fluoro just isnt feeling too good for me. i really wanto fish a worm. hopefully you guan help me out. .ys c

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Posted

You can still catch plenty of fish in clear water on straight braid. I fish bright pink braid in clear water for added visibility and have no problem catching fish. 30lb braid generally is going to be about the same diameter as an 8lb mono, which is really pretty thin. Add in a little murk of some algae and sediment floating in the water, a little distortion from the sunlight refraction at the water's surface, and that thin line becomes even harder to see. 

 

You're fishing for fun I assume, so maybe it cost you a bite or two over the course of a day of fishing. If you enjoy fishing it more, it sounds to me like a pretty fair trade off. 

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  • Super User
Posted

If you can catch fish using jigs worms should be easier, it's the same bite that bass tend to hold onto longer. 30 lb braid is about the minimum diameter line you want to use on a baitcasting reel. Bass are not a line shy fish and using a Texas rigged worm with sliding bullet sinker where you fish should be OK using 30 lb braid direct or drop the mono or FC to 12 lb, 20 on is over kill unless you are fishing heavy cover areas.

Tom

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  • Super User
Posted

Welcome aboard!

 

I use braid + leader, always now. Used to use straight braid

back in the early 90s but when I got back into it and learned

another thing or two in the 2000s I switched to braid/leader.

 

Mainly due to expense of braid and desire to preserve it as

my mainline. I can retie multiple times before cutting into the

mainline when I use a leader.

  • Super User
Posted

A few things can work:
 

1. Pretreat your line with KVD Line & Lure.  You have to let it fry for it to work it's best.

 

2. Go back to straight braid.  There's nothing wrong with this setup.  I go straight braid in weeds.

 

3.  Braid with a fluoro leader.  This very popular, just make sure you use a good connection knot.  I use an Alberto knot.  It was invented by Crazy Alberto, a famous striper fisherman.  If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for bass.

Posted

Welcome aboard Pitch,

     WRB is spot on the line weight, 20# Fluoro is overkill for worm fishing unless your throwing a 10" worm and using a 1/2 oz weight. Try something in the range of 12#-14# Fluoro. There is a big difference between brands as far as the stiffness of the line goes. Some of the brands are very stiff which can really add to the backlash problem. I prefer the Sunline Shooter or Sniper. Seguar Tatsu is one of my favorites too, it is on the high end of the price spectrum. Seaguar Red label is a popular one also.  I feel the backlash problem with fluoro is very much related to how stiff the line is and its tendency to self uncoil because of the stiffness. You might try some of the co-poly lines. Pline CXX and Yozuri hybrid to name a couple that get good reviews. Both test way over the breaking strength they are rated at and the diameter of the line shows that. So a 10 or 12# Yozuri hybrid or CXX will test out and have the same diameter as 15-20# fluoro or mono.

     There is nothing wrong with using mono either. I was a long time fan of Berkley 14# XL for castability. I have friends that swear by the Berkley Big game.  Hope some of this convoluted conversations makes some sense to you.

Regards,

Fishingmickey 

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  • Super User
Posted
2 hours ago, J Francho said:

  I use an Alberto knot.  It was invented by Crazy Alberto, a famous striper fisherman.  If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for bass.

I prefer the modified Albright... :)

 

why can't I post pictures?

  • Super User
Posted

My bass fishing mentor was Jason Lucas in the 50's and Jay was a light line advocate that influenced how I bass fish. When I suggest using 12 lb line in lieu of 20 lb it's because 12 lb test line is stronge enough to control any bass,unless it's in heavy cover.

The fact 12 lb line is easier to cast is a bonus.

I use line between .010 dia to .012 dia for my jig and worm baitcasting reels unless fishing heavy cover or at night, then may go up to .015 diameter. Smaller diameter strong line is how I have always bass fished, not because bass line shy, they are not,  it's because I enjoy fighting bass instead of winch them to the boat.

Tom

Posted

well ive been doing some experimenting and the braid is absolutely perfect for throwing my swimming jigs on my 7"1 med heavy rod, even spinnerbaits and stuff, but my second rod i have is the one with the 20lb fluoro on it, its a 6'8 med heavy worm a nd jig rod from shimano, i used to have teh same 30lb braid on it, but i really only used it for flukes because i just simply cant get the worm thing down. it seems like it works well for using the fluke, but maybe 20# is overkill like some of you said, because i cannot cast the dang thing weightless, and i dont feel like i have enough feeling on the bait when i finally get it out far enough. ive pretty much resorted to using a bullet weight above the ewg hook, that out with the worm rod i see guys just wreck them on worms, and i feel like im missing a big part of bass fishing by not learning it. and it works for the flukes, but i just cant get bit on a worm. i have some of that 12# big game mono i use for saltwater fishing, maybe ill try that out for this whole worm thing. i pretty much fish off the bank on a bayou, or kayak in the same spots. every now and then ill fish ponds.

  • Super User
Posted

@sonofapitch I also came from a saltwater background chasing specks & reds along the Louisiana/Texas Gulf coast.

 

I still venture south occasionally ?

 

To me lines, rods, & reels is about comfort & I'm totally comfortable throwing Berkley Big Game in salt, brackish, or fresh water. If ya can Bull Reds on mono you can land any bass that swims!

 

As for worm fishing have you ever fished lead heads/grubs for specks?

 

If ya have you have the basics of worm fishing, start with the exact same retrieves.

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  • Super User
Posted

Personally I feel your casting will improve considerably with the 12# Big Game.  I use 8# and 12# Big Game and feel it has a bit more memory for the first few casts than some other lines such as Siege, P-Line CX, Mean Green and AN40.  However, Big Game is an excellent line and as others on here...such as Raul...can testify to it has a decent amount of abrasion resistance.

 

It amazes me how much effort it takes to break a 12# mono...or co-polymer.

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Posted

i kindof got over the whole casting thing, im able to cast a little better with it now, still not great weightless but better than before, my main issue is i dont feel like i have any kind of connection with the worm. i really dont feel like i can feel the weight of the worm and i guess thats the part thats confusing me. how do i work a worm if i cant feel it on my line?ive been using a bullet weight not pegged and it feels like im working a fluke right but i just cant really get the worm thing down. i keep  hearing that you need to fish a worm weightless, but i just cant feel it and it really gets to me. maybe i should try drop shotting or something like that. it feels like when i first started learning how to throw jigs and things, but at some point i got a breakthrough and realized how to do it, but ive been trying to fish a worm for about 5 months now and it just hasnt worked out for me. maybe im trying to work it too much, and with swim jigs and topwaters i get good bass regularly, but with crankbaits and worms i pretty much dont get anything but the occasional weed , ill try to grab some pictures of the spots i usually fish or something maybe you guys can help me out.

  • Super User
Posted

You can definitely use straight braid. I run 40lb braid, often straight and when I through a leader on, it's usually 10 or 12lb line (FC or mono depending on the day), which matches the line diameter of the braid. My personal take on FC is that I personally only use fluorcarbon that is 14lbs and under because as you get near 20lbs, that i when I start having to worry about knots failing.

  • Super User
Posted

@sonofapitch

 

This whole idea of using the lightest weight possible is not completely correct!

 

Rate of fall: how fast you lure falls through the water column 

 

Some days they want it slow like weightless & some days the want it fast like a 3/8 oz.

 

My bullet weights are 1/64, 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 oz. & larger for flipping-n-pitching.

 

My suggestion is since ya can't fell what's going add weight.

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  • Super User
Posted

KISS.......for me, braid with leader or straight braid.  Used to use the moss greens, moving to high vis ( old eyes).  Uni knot works in most cases.  The longer I do this, the simpler I go

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Posted
5 hours ago, Catt said:

@sonofapitch

 

This whole idea of using the lightest weight possible is not completely correct!

 

Rate of fall: how fast you lure falls through the water column 

 

Some days they want it slow like weightless & some days the want it fast like a 3/8 oz.

 

My bullet weights are 1/64, 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 oz. & larger for flipping-n-pitching.

 

My suggestion is since ya can't fell what's going add weight.

I agree, a weightless plastic worm on 30 braid? That's not easy casting for someone newer

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Tara-senko said:

I agree, a weightless plastic worm on 30 braid? That's not easy casting for someone newer

well honestly that makes me feel better haha. maybe ill add some lighter line to one of my setups. i only basically use three setups , a 6'8 med heavy with 7:1:1 gear revo with 20lb fluoro, 7'1 med heavy with 7:1:1 revo and 30lb braid , and a 6'5 heavy with a 5:6:1 or something like that daiwa with mono, maybe ill switch the fluoro to a lighter braid or fluoro

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