Super User J Francho Posted June 5, 2017 Super User Posted June 5, 2017 Put a hairband on the butt grip of the rod, and slip the weight under that when you tore the rod. You can still do the twist the line over the blank a few times with this as well. 1 Quote
ib_of_the_damned Posted June 5, 2017 Posted June 5, 2017 23 minutes ago, J Francho said: Put a hairband on the butt grip of the rod, and slip the weight under that when you tore the rod. You can still do the twist the line over the blank a few times with this as well. I used to use a small velcro strap to secure the rig to my rod or took the hook, and hooked it in the open end of the DS weight then hooked that into the closed loop hook keeper. Then I started buying rods with the open ended hook keeper, then just slip the weight in the hook keeper and tighten the line. WAAAAAY easier! Quote
Super User J Francho Posted June 5, 2017 Super User Posted June 5, 2017 I find when using a heavier weight, they slip out of the open end hanger. Been doing the hairband thing for over decade - works great. Quote
Todd2 Posted June 5, 2017 Posted June 5, 2017 28 minutes ago, J Francho said: Been doing the hairband thing for over decade - works great. Hairbands had their big run in the 80's... As far as line twists, I don't have any issues like I read about on here. Almost makes me think I'm doing something wrong. I am using 8-10 Original Stren. I know, using mono on a DS is heresy..but it works great for me. Quote
Super User WRB Posted June 5, 2017 Super User Posted June 5, 2017 Eye Surrender makes a 5" X1" Velcro strap to hold heavier drop shot weights on the rod handle, little pricey but they work. Tom Quote
Super User J Francho Posted June 5, 2017 Super User Posted June 5, 2017 12 minutes ago, Todd2 said: I know, using mono on a DS is heresy..but it works great for me. Not at all. Was "drop shotting" with mono on a Zebco 33 and 5-6 combo before the name was coined. It's we all learned how to fish up here, as kids. Most would use snelled hooks, but my grandfather said for kids, it was better to have the hook directly connected to the rod, with no slack. That way kids could feel a light bite better. The only real difference is running the tag end back through, which was something I used to laugh at my uncle for doing. Imaging that? 16 minutes ago, Todd2 said: Hairbands had their big run in the 80's... It's funny, because I am also a musician. I started in punk bands, though. Blue mohawk. 1 Quote
Super User Darren. Posted June 5, 2017 Super User Posted June 5, 2017 56 minutes ago, ib_of_the_damned said: I used to use a small velcro strap to secure the rig to my rod or took the hook, and hooked it in the open end of the DS weight then hooked that into the closed loop hook keeper. Then I started buying rods with the open ended hook keeper, then just slip the weight in the hook keeper and tighten the line. WAAAAAY easier! Used velcro, as well. Got to be a pain at times. For rods w/o an open hook keeper I put on a Fuji hook keeper. Quote
Super User Darren. Posted June 7, 2017 Super User Posted June 7, 2017 On 6/5/2017 at 0:13 PM, Crestliner2008 said: Thanks Darren. Well they came in, here are some pix. 100 pack. They are definitely thinner at the core than the other ones I've used, so should come thru the guides well. I've got a tangled drop shot my youngest was using yesterday to retie and I'll add these on. 2 Quote
BassThumb Posted June 10, 2017 Posted June 10, 2017 Another tip for stowing a dropshot while not in use is to attach a small crankbait clip to the eyelet of the sinker. When you're finished using the bait, open up the clip and attach it to the hook-keeper on the rod. This has been my routine this year and last, and I see no disadvantage to it. The sinker doesn't get lodged in the rocks any more than it would without the clip. Quote
reerok Posted June 13, 2017 Posted June 13, 2017 On 6/7/2017 at 4:14 PM, Darren. said: Well they came in, here are some pix. 100 pack. They are definitely thinner at the core than the other ones I've used, so should come thru the guides well. I've got a tangled drop shot my youngest was using yesterday to retie and I'll add these on. How are they working? They look good and if you recommend them I'll pull the trigger on an order. Thanks Darren. 1 Quote
Super User Darren. Posted June 13, 2017 Super User Posted June 13, 2017 2 hours ago, reerok said: How are they working? They look good and if you recommend them I'll pull the trigger on an order. Thanks Darren. So far so good! Only tested 'em once, was about 1 hour using that rod setup. No fish on it, but a ton of snags and the rig held up extremely well under those circumstance. The grass was pretty thick in the areas I was fishing it and I did bring in a lot of grass on both the hook and the weight. A few times the grass was heavy enough to slide the hook down to the weight, as it would do with a fish on. Hard to beat for the price. 1 Quote
chadmack282 Posted June 14, 2017 Posted June 14, 2017 On Sunday, June 04, 2017 at 0:00 PM, Darren. said: Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage of not losing the entire rig... But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another bobber stop (no knot). Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at coming through rocks, and so forth. The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of the distance from hook to weight. My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel). i love the idea of bobber stops it gives your hook more freedom to move & rotate. BUT it seem to me the hook could work its way down the line causing the bobber stopper to slide down the line while catching larger or/& fierce fighting fish. is that not a problem or concern? Quote
Super User Darren. Posted June 14, 2017 Super User Posted June 14, 2017 10 hours ago, chadmack282 said: i love the idea of bobber stops it gives your hook more freedom to move & rotate. BUT it seem to me the hook could work its way down the line causing the bobber stopper to slide down the line while catching larger or/& fierce fighting fish. is that not a problem or concern? Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the hook in the position you set it. Quote
Super User NHBull Posted June 14, 2017 Super User Posted June 14, 2017 24 minutes ago, Darren. said: Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the hook in the position you set it. Darren, can you post a link or point me in the right direction for the bobberstops. thanks Quote
Super User Darren. Posted June 14, 2017 Super User Posted June 14, 2017 19 minutes ago, NHBull said: Darren, can you post a link or point me in the right direction for the bobberstops. thanks Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBDTCW0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quote
Super User fishwizzard Posted June 14, 2017 Super User Posted June 14, 2017 I ordered a pack of them today, going to give it a shot this weekend. Quote
chadmack282 Posted June 14, 2017 Posted June 14, 2017 9 hours ago, Darren. said: Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the hook in the position you set it. so u tie a knot on your drop shot weight then? i just reread your original post & see u do use a knot on DS weight, makes perfect sence to me now. 1 Quote
GrumpyOlPhartte Posted June 14, 2017 Posted June 14, 2017 One possibility for making length-adjustable weights for drop shot weights is to use a bullet or egg sinker with a rubber t-stop. After tying the hook to your line, slide a sinker onto the "tag" end, insert a t-stop, snug it up, and trim the t-drop. If you're worried that the sinker will slide off the line too easily, tie a figure-8 knot (or other bulky knot) at the end of the line. I use this to employ steel sinkers for which I have substituted tungsten sinkers. They are probably less sensitive for feeling the bottom, but I do not have enough experience to appreciate the difference. The big plus for me is that the distance of the weight is easily adjustable and, in my limited experience, less likely to break the tag end while adjusting. Oh, yeah, and did I mention, "inexpensive"? And, of course, lead sinkers work too, where legal. I realize the tag end may extend past the sinker as it is moved up the line, but I can live with that. Quote
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