Super User new2BC4bass Posted January 19, 2015 Super User Posted January 19, 2015 Im thinking my next reel will be a chronarch 51 because of all the upgrades. I want to build a finesse baitcaster I've gone this route before. Not with a Shimano, tho. A Daiwa Sol. It is okay if you need to spread the cost out over time. However, I'm not sure I wound up with a reel able to perform as well as the true finesse reel I finally broke down and bought....a PXL. Won't know that for sure until it warms up enough for me to get out with both for some side-by-side comparisons. Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted January 19, 2015 Author Super User Posted January 19, 2015 Diawa px ok.... im just trying to find a reel that is well suported for all the goodies lol. If you are just looking to add the 'pretty' parts from Hedgehog Studios you don't need to buy a PX. A Tatula has the options of dress up parts. A PX is a true finesse reel to throw light rigs. Are you just trying to dress up a reel or actually want a reel for light baits? Quote
thehooligan Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 For the short time i had my td ito, i put in the steez 105 sv shallow spool. Tried 20lb braid and 8lb hybrid and was pretty amazed throwing 1/16oz wacky flickshshakes/shakyheads, and weightless wacky 4 inch senkos. There very versatile, as i could almost turn the mag brakes off and throw 1/2oz topwaters, then turn it back to about 2-3 on the dial and be throwing weightless plastics. Im truly a shimano guy and only sold that ito/sv setup cause i needed the money, but the new alphas sv has me pretty excited. Told myself id save for just the aldebaran but i want that alphas too Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted January 19, 2015 Author Super User Posted January 19, 2015 I know the struggle. I watched a Zonda 68 Hedgehog go off last night with zero bids. Took all I had not to buy it. 1 Quote
masterbass Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 What's the difference in performance between the sv 105 and sv1000? Quote
hzzhangc Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 Yeah I can't really say yes or no. I know the Steez sv spool and the t3 sv spool are the same. Not sure about the ss sv spool. I would think other than color it was. Maybe someone else will chime in. The Steez sv and t3 are definitely different cause you can drop the t3 svl in a steez but can use the steez sv in t3. Also the steez sv is around $30 more than t3. For the performance I think they should be the same, which makes me feel stupid paying extra for the Steez sv. Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted January 19, 2015 Author Super User Posted January 19, 2015 I was referring to the braking of each. Someone said the difference is the Steez SV has a lightly longer spool shaft and weighs a fraction more. Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted January 19, 2015 Author Super User Posted January 19, 2015 If you get a chance, can you try it with an 1/8th oz and report what kind of performance you get? Alright it's 42 out and I did some testing for you. I used a #2 wacky hook and a jackall flick shake worm. Total weight was 3.7g on the scale. I made about a dozen casts and they all seemed to average about 40' once I got them all to go straight. Release point sure is different on something that light. Quote
Super User Tywithay Posted January 19, 2015 Super User Posted January 19, 2015 The Steez sv and t3 are definitely different cause you can drop the t3 svl in a steez but can use the steez sv in t3. Also the steez sv is around $30 more than t3. For the performance I think they should be the same, which makes me feel stupid paying extra for the Steez sv.You can use the Steez SV spool in a T3. You have to remove the carbon shim in the sideplate, because the spool shaft is longer. Quote
Super User aavery2 Posted January 19, 2015 Super User Posted January 19, 2015 Alright it's 42 out and I did some testing for you. I used a #2 wacky hook and a jackall flick shake worm. Total weight was 3.7g on the scale. I made about a dozen casts and they all seemed to average about 40' once I got them all to go straight. Release point sure is different on something that light. Thanks for getting out in the cold and giving that a try. I think the release point is crazy because most rods just can't load properly with that light of a weight. Most of the rods that I have tried an 1/8 on, my casts always fly to the left. Did you use the Phoenix? Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted January 19, 2015 Author Super User Posted January 19, 2015 Thanks for getting out in the cold and giving that a try. I think the release point is crazy because most rods just can't load properly with that light of a weight. Most of the rods that I have tried an 1/8 on, my casts always fly to the left. Did you use the Phoenix? Yeah I had the same thing happen to me. I did use the Phenix. It really doesn't load much with 1/8oz. It's funny when you actually weigh a bait. Most of these people who are saying 'my X reel will throw 1/8oz' probably don't realize a fat Albert grub,trick worm, or 4" senko weighs a 1/4oz as they sit without a hook. Quote
Hogsticker Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 In short, what I really dig about these spools, especially the deep version, is it will allow me to cast both relatively light and relatively heavy baits. . . Stress free! I can set my T3s on long cast with the dial at zero and let her rip. Minimal line fluff into the wind. The distance I'm getting is still quite respectable and very acceptable. No side plate to open, no tabs to move. Simple and effective. Think it's time to phase one more Shimano out (Curado 51E) for an Alphas SV. Quote
Super User aavery2 Posted January 19, 2015 Super User Posted January 19, 2015 Yeah I had the same thing happen to me. I did use the Phenix. It really doesn't load much with 1/8oz. It's funny when you actually weigh a bait. Most of these people who are saying 'my X reel will throw 1/8oz' probably don't realize a fat Albert grub,trick worm, or 4" senko weighs a 1/4oz as they sit without a hook. I think you have hit it right on the head, the plastic, even a small one adds some considerable weight. Many modern reels stock out of the box can cast 1/4oz and up, but it takes a good setup, both rod, reel and line, to even get started with an 1/8. 1 Quote
Quarry Man Posted June 8, 2017 Posted June 8, 2017 I have a Tatula ct, arachnid and zillion tws. Should I buy an aftermarket spoil and bearings for all of them. If so, which ones Quote
DanQS13 Posted June 8, 2017 Posted June 8, 2017 @rippin-lips Put some Hedgehog Kattobi bearings on the spool now and watch out. 6 hours ago, Quarry Man said: I have a Tatula ct, arachnid and zillion tws. Should I buy an aftermarket spoil and bearings for all of them. If so, which ones You have 4 real choices... Hedgehog, Hawgtech, Boca, ZPI... I personally use Hedgehog, but any will do very well for you. Make sure you check the retailer instructions closely. Hedgehogs are usually drop in and already oiled up and ready to go. ZPI for instance, you have to add oil or they say you can mess them up. By add oil I think all the retailers agree that means a SINGLE drop, no more. http://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/ball-bearings-pin-remover.html Here's a helpful little page for you if you need to figure out sizes. The Tatula will need some work, but can function amazing smooth if you put in the work. The Bearings you should change: 1) 4 Bearing in the knobs which should be 4x7x2.5s. Don't get anything crazy like ABEC7s, most retailers sell a good bearing that isn't over the top for the knobs. Tackletrap has a 4 pack of good bearings for $16 or something. 2) Line guide bearings. They make kits for this too, can't remember the size but can't be too hard to find. 3) Spool shaft bearings. Use the list that I linked, these are the bearings you want to put your money in, $30-36 is a good price for some amazing quality bearings. Be forewarned, turned your d**n brakes up before casting with new spool bearings Quote
DanQS13 Posted June 8, 2017 Posted June 8, 2017 Here I made this easy for you, use the following to supertune your Tatula (using code BBC10 will save you 10% fyi) http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=898_2352_1865_1520&products_id=6462 http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=898_2352_1865_1520&products_id=6463 http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=898_660_731&products_id=9864 http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=898_2352_1865_2116&products_id=9349 The 2 Zillion TWS reels I have cast crazy far already, I did nothing to mine. But if you want just do the spool bearings and anything else I think would be a waste of your money. Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted June 8, 2017 Author Super User Posted June 8, 2017 41 minutes ago, DanQS13 said: @rippin-lips Put some Hedgehog Kattobi bearings on the spool now and watch out. I have a few pairs of the air hd bearings but I've slowly went over to Zpi Sics. Price is the same and it's a better bearing. 7 hours ago, Quarry Man said: I have a Tatula ct, arachnid and zillion tws. Should I buy an aftermarket spoil and bearings for all of them. If so, which ones Don't waste your money on bearings. If anything pickup 4 - 4x7x2.5 bearings and add 2 to the knobs and 2 to the worm shaft. However, the difference isn't really noticeable. I do it because I like to mess with stuff. I had 2 tatulas... 1 with al the extra bearings and upgraded spool bearings. The other 100% bone stock. If you blindfolded me I would not ever be able to tell you which one was in my hand. If anything spend that $30 and send it to Bryan at The Tackle Trap and have it properly cleaned and lubed. Quote
Super User .ghoti. Posted June 8, 2017 Super User Posted June 8, 2017 ^^^THIS^^^ Before you spend any cash on spool bearings, either learn how to properly clean and lube your reel(s), or send it/them to Mike at Delaware Valley Tackle. I hate to admit how much money I spent on spool bearings before realizing I was pizzing away my money. If you buy a Daiwa or Shimano, or a made in Sweden Ambassadeur, the spool bearings do not need to be "upgraded". Unless, of course, you are one of those who has to have the most expensive toys. 1 Quote
jtesch Posted June 9, 2017 Posted June 9, 2017 SS SV is most definitely more "breaky" then the other SV's. I think you have to accept it for what it is, a mid range caster that is very accurate and controlled. The Tatula SV can waaaaay outcast it and doesn't even have a free floating spool. Remember the SS SV is one of the first SV's and I'm sure a lot of fine tuning has happened since Quote
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