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Posted

I'll do the basic cleaning but here's what my guy does for me:

All cleanings consist of the following:

Complete disassembly and inspection.

Thorough ultra sonic cleaning of all parts in a special degreaser solution.

All bearing shields removed, cleaned, and re-lube/greased.

Carbon fiber drag washers lubed with Cal's drag grease.

Lube, grease, and reassemble.

 

Each to his own.

 

Old school basser...
 

  • Super User
Posted

On bearing shields that are stainless, those cannot be reinstalled, or can they?

  • Super User
Posted

On bearing shields that are stainless, those cannot be reinstalled, or can they?

 

Some are "press in" and you pretty much ruin them taking them out.  Others have a c-clip retainer.  Removing those pretty much ruins them too, though I suppose you can try to put them back in.  I don't bother removing metal shields.  It's not necessary.  If you don't care that anything gets in there, take them off.

Posted

I don't even reinstall so called non-contact seals. Once open they're best left open. Whether or not to open them to begin with is the real question (and not always even possible). As a rule, I wouldn't bother opening shielded bearings. If they're quiet but not really spinning well after several soaks, removing the shields may help you save them and running them open is no big deal as long as maintenance is regular. 

  • Super User
Posted

 

I don't even reinstall buy bearings with so called non-contact seals.

 

Fixed it. :P

 

I really don't know why people buy OS bearings.  Just get the shielded version.  A bearing can't get crapped up with what can't get in there, and regular maintenance is status quo for those that upgrade bearings anyway - that's why you never hear about problems running bearings open.  For the user that doesn't do anything until something goes wrong, it's a bad choice.

  • Super User
Posted

Laying parts out on a paper towel is a bad idea. Orientation can be easily determined with a correct schematic. Here's how I keep track of a stripped reel.

IMG_2925-L.jpg

What temp and how long do you bake those cupcakes?!
  • Super User
Posted

350°F, middle rack, 22 mins, or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

The problem is not cleaning it, the problem begins when you break it down ( itsy bitsy teeny tiny lil parts fly at warp speed going boldly where no other reel part has gone before ) and then putting it back together can also represent a problem, schematics help but are not the solution. Take pictures as you remove parts so when you are putting it back together you can see where and how the parts are placed, so you won´t end up with the I don't understand face when you see extra parts after you finish the reassembly process.

Posted

LakeForkTackle.com  has produced a how to DVD for cleaning and lubing baitcasters.  I bought one 8 years ago for then $20 and it set me on the road to doing my own reels.  You get better the longer you do it, but this was a good start for me.  When I hit 13 baitcasters I decided I had better learn how.  Organization and attention to detail is the key, but at least for my Shimano reels, I discovered that they are all basically the same inside.

  • Super User
Posted

John, I'm quite impressed with your mastery of cleaning Chinese built reels as your muffin tin picture shows... filling first the top right cup working your way top to bottom then right to left as the characters on a traditional Chinese written page.

 

 

oe

  • Super User
Posted

LOL, turn the pan 90°ccw, and it's left to right, top to bottom. ;)

  • Super User
Posted

Hmm...

 

My handle on a Scorpion was loose which requires removing two little bitty screws

and then tightening a little nut. This exceeded my capabilities as one of those little

burgers jumped out and ran away!

 

 

:eyebrows:

  • Super User
Posted

LOL, turn the pan 90°ccw, and it's left to right, top to bottom. ;)

 

 

I've read about you guys that go both ways... I'm guessing this is what that meant???...

 

 

oe

Posted

The only time there are tiny parts that go flying is when ou start getting into the level wind or handle shaft. Those are held in with E clips and pop those off in a bag or something. It's really nothing to just remove the handle side plate. Depends on the reel but 4 screws and a nut the rest slide off. Really if doing that is beyond someone's mechanical ability then we are doomed as a people. I understand getting older and things being harder with little parts. But if you don't qualify for AARP then I hope for your sake you can handle such minor task.

Also please refrain from clicking the thumb bar when the plate is not on and the yoke springs still installed. Unless you don't want those yoke springs anymore and intend to send 30 minutes on the floor looking for them. I have done it myself and I know waaaaayyyyy better then that. I did it back to back the one day. Crazy

Posted

Pretty much anyone has the intellect to change the oil in there car (way less involved than what we're talking about) yet what % of the population do it themselves? It's really got nothing to do with age, intelligence or coordination. Whether you lack the confidence or just the inclination to DIY this kind of stuff, there's no shame in just having it done for you, and likely with better results. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Really if doing that is beyond someone's mechanical ability then we are doomed as a people.

 

Hmm...

 

Just because it's easy for you does not make it easy for me.  I have some other skills

that many people might find challenging. I don't think the ability to tear down a reel and

put it back together determines whether or not we are "doomed as a people".

 

 

 

:eyebrows:

  • Like 1
Posted

Hmm...

 

Just because it's easy for you does not make it easy for me.  I have some other skills

that many people might find challenging. I don't think the ability to tear down a reel and

put it back together determines whether or not we are "doomed as a people".

 

 

 

:eyebrows:

I never said to fully tear down a reel. I am only talking about removing the handle plate. A couple screw and the the nut that holds the handle on. I don't disagree that not everyone could break down a reel 100% and put it back together. Unless you don't know how to use a screwdriver or wrench then removing the plate to access the internals should not be a issue. Of course some people might have limiting disabilities but for the average person I hope almost everyone is capable of removing some screws and the handle.

Posted

Take things apart slowly and carefully.

 

Take pictures.

 

Remove small, springy parts inside a bread bag or similar. 

 

Keep an eye on your diagram.  Sometimes, a small, thin washer will stick to a larger piece and you won't know it's there unless you are checking what's in your hands against what's on the sheet.  Later, you will suddenly have "extra" washers (if you didn't accidentally wash them down the drain) and no idea where they go.

 

Sometimes things are reverse threaded.

 

Clean, rinse, and dry well; and go easy on the grease, it doesn't take much.

 

Semi-jack: I'm curious about the pitfalls of removing and reinstalling bearing shields.  I've done this several times with no problems; what am I missing or potentially screwing up?

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