Best Frog Reel

[Michiganbasser]

I was wondering what in your guy's opinion is the top three frog reels. I am a die hard Abu fan and was thinking about the rocket. But I want to hear from you guys first. Keep it under $300

[Catch and Grease]

I like the diawa tatula. but I haven't used any reels around 300$.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Frog fishing doesn't require anything more than any other heavy cover application, ie: metal frame, good drag, good casting. Pretty much any of the $125> reels out there meet these requirements. Gear ratio is strictly preference. I don't see the need for a super fast reel here personally. 

[Master Bait'r]

I use a BB1 Pro and enjoy it immensely.  Screw the country mile, that thing casts frogs over the horizon haha.

 

 

It's really preference though, lots of great reels in that price range.  I'd go 7.1:1 or more but again that's preference.  I just like to be able to keep my slack up when I'm walking without spinning myself out.  You don't need a rocket though, just go for something that has a good heavy drag, wide spool and a fasterish ratio and you're good IMO.    

[David P]

Frog fishing doesn't require anything more than any other heavy cover application, ie: metal frame, good drag, good casting. Pretty much any of the $125> reels out there meet these requirements. Gear ratio is strictly preference. I don't see the need for a super fast reel here personally. 

Preference? 

 

  Top water bites can create a good deal of slack in your line, setting the hook quickly without reeling in all of your slack line could result in less than solid hook set... Higher the speed, more line is picked up quicker, better chance of solid hook penetration.. More than just personal preference in my opinion.

 

  I used high speed STX reels for a few years, then went to Premier High Speeds, then to the MGX and once the Revo Rocket came out I went that route, and hookup ratio has only gotten better. Going from high speed to a regular 6.4:1 you can feel the difference when setting the hook. 

[aavery2]

I use the Gen 2 Revo STX 6.4:1. Like DVT I don't find the need for a super high IPT when working a frog, this reel retrieves more than enough line for good slack line management IMO.

[bootytrain]

Treat yourself and get a Shimano Exsence DC.

[J Francho]

My buddy has a Rocket. His intention was using it for frogging, but went back to his Viento.  The Rocket didn't have enough torque, as he put it.  I used it to see, and didn't have too much issue with it, but YMMV.  As long as it's reasonably quick, has a strong drag, gears, and metal frame, it should work fine.

[BasshunterJGH]

I like the diawa tatula. but I haven't used any reels around 300$.

x2 the type r 8.1:1 is perfect for frogging.

[CWB]

Quantum Smoke 150 7.1:1.

[DTack]

Preference? 

 

  Top water bites can create a good deal of slack in your line, setting the hook quickly without reeling in all of your slack line could result in less than solid hook set... Higher the speed, more line is picked up quicker, better chance of solid hook penetration.. More than just personal preference in my opinion.

 

  I used high speed STX reels for a few years, then went to Premier High Speeds, then to the MGX and once the Revo Rocket came out I went that route, and hookup ratio has only gotten better. Going from high speed to a regular 6.4:1 you can feel the difference when setting the hook. 

 

Covered and done.  Make sure you have a strong drag on a fast reel and you're good in my eyes.  My current preference is the Type R Tatula.

[OntarioFishingGuy]

Chronarch C14 7.6:1 is my choice.

[Swampstud]

The faster retrieve ratios make it easier to get the fish up top of the pads or mats and keep em coming. Whats easier 100 cranks or 75 cranks with a fish on the end. Its tougher to get em out once they wrap there head in a few stems which is why you want to pull em right out an go!

[aavery2]

The faster retrieve ratios make it easier to get the fish up top of the pads or mats and keep em coming. Whats easier 100 cranks or 75 cranks with a fish on the end. Its tougher to get em out once they wrap there head in a few stems which is why you want to pull em right out an go!

While I understand your logic,do you crank the fish to the top of the mat or use your rod to move the fish?

[illinifan4152]

Shimano Chronarch 200e7 or Curado 200e7 is perfect...  Cheers!

[MarkH024]

 Curado 200e7 is perfect...  Cheers!

That is my frog reel. I can bomb a frog with it, plenty of power, plenty of spool capacity, and an upgraded drag for $8.00.  This will be my frog reel for life until I physically destroy it some how.

[David P]

While I understand your logic,do you crank the fish to the top of the mat or use your rod to move the fish?

Your rod tip should stay high, and use the reel to bring the fish in. Each time you lower your rod tip and give even the slightest bit of slack in the line, you're risking a lost fish. If the stuff is too thick to reel the fish out, I will go in after it with the boat, instead of lower my rod tip and pull on the fish with the rod. 

[aavery2]

Your rod tip should stay high, and use the reel to bring the fish in. Each time you lower your rod tip and give even the slightest bit of slack in the line, you're risking a lost fish. If the stuff is too thick to reel the fish out, I will go in after it with the boat, instead of lower my rod tip and pull on the fish with the rod.

So your saying you move the fish with your reel? Anyone else using this method of moving fish out of cover? Seems odd to me, what is the purpose of a XH rod in a longer length if you are moving the fish with the reel?

[David P]

I keep my rod tip high. I don't lower the tip to reel in slack and then pull on them out of cover. Usually I can get them out of the mat with getting them to the top, and then quickly reeling them over top of the vegetation. If the fish is stuck down there, I go in after it. Rather not lose an 8 or 10lb frog fish because I allowed slack in the line and tried horsing it out. 

 

   In open water, yes, I always move the fish with my reel. I keep my rod tip high. I do not lift my rod tip up and down pulling the fish with the rod then reeling in slack line. Constant pressure whether it be open water or heavy cover helps. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

That's one way of doing it, but "should" is debatable. It's much more mechanically efficient to move the fish with the rod and simple to take up line without putting slack in the line. Hold a rod too high and start cranking too much weight and next thing you know you've got a broken rod just like high-sticking a hookset.

[David P]

The Extra Heavy rod helps me set the hook hard on a bait that has two stout hooks on it and plastic in the way, not to mention many times one or multiple types of vegetation in the way. Stouter rod helps with the overall hook penetration. The longer length allows to move more line on the hook set (another thing along with the high speed reel that helps counteract the slack that a big top water blow up can put in your line). Longer length also allows for longer casts (out here, fish are spooky, I cast onto mats from quite a distance). 

[aavery2]

I keep my rod tip high. I don't lower the tip to reel in slack and then pull on them out of cover. Usually I can get them out of the mat with getting them to the top, and then quickly reeling them over top of the vegetation. If the fish is stuck down there, I go in after it. Rather not lose an 8 or 10lb frog fish because I allowed slack in the line and tried horsing it out. 

 

   In open water, yes, I always move the fish with my reel. I keep my rod tip high. I do not lift my rod tip up and down pulling the fish with the rod then reeling in slack line. Constant pressure whether it be open water or heavy cover helps.

I hold the tip high and use the reel to ski the fish across the water when in heavy cover, but I use the rod to initially bring the fish up out of the cover. Lots of ways to skin a cat.

[aavery2]

The Extra Heavy rod helps me set the hook hard on a bait that has two stout hooks on it and plastic in the way, not to mention many times one or multiple types of vegetation in the way. Stouter rod helps with the overall hook penetration. The longer length allows to move more line on the hook set (another thing along with the high speed reel that helps counteract the slack that a big top water blow up can put in your line). Longer length also allows for longer casts (out here, fish are spooky, I cast onto mats from quite a distance).

Sounds like you have a system that works for you and that is all that is important.

[David P]

That's one way of doing it, but "should" is debatable. It's much more mechanically efficient to move the fish with the rod and simple to take up line without putting slack in the line. Hold a rod too high and start cranking too much weight and next thing you know you've got a broken rod just like high-sticking a hookset.

Not holding the rod tip at 12 oclock and maybe that's my  bad for not clarifying that. But allowing slack in your line or pointing your rod tip down at the water to then pull on the fish and then reel in slack is what loses fishes. Lowering the rod tip slightly while reeling the fish as long as there's constant pressure is fine. I just don't lower my rod tip down and then back up to reel in slack line and have seen way too many big fish lost from this maneuver. 

[Swampstud]

While I understand your logic,do you crank the fish to the top of the mat or use your rod to move the fish?

The long stiff rod and a heavy hookset gets em up on top that fast reel keeps em movin. Trust me! Its a workout sometimes just to keep em up, the bigguns that is.