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Posted

I have live targets, spros and booyah padcrashers. I have tried cutting one leg and leaving the other alone, I have also tried trimmingboth legs and all they do is kind of pop straight ahead. No walk the dog or no side movement, just straight ahead. So how do you cut yours and how do you make it walk?

  • Super User
Posted

Practice...practice.  If you're using braid it becomes a lot harder to achieve a walk the dog presentation than if on mono.  I throw all my frogs on straight braid, and to be honest I don't even walk it that often. There are certain lures for walking...and just chugging a frog along has served me just fine.  The trimming of the leg skirts helps some, but it's not going to perfect it. Your cadence and practice will be key. Keep trying.

  • Super User
Posted

 I am terrible at explaining things. But if it's just bobbing up and down, and moving in a straight line back at you, your not giving it enough slack to walk, use your rod tip to get to move to one side, then throw it slack before it moving it again and it will walk. I trim the legs about an inch on each side, I have never found they walk any better with one side shorter than the other.

  • Like 2
Posted

 I am terrible at explaining things. But if it's just bobbing up and down, and moving in a straight line back at you, your not giving it enough slack to walk, use your rod tip to get to move to one side, then throw it slack before it moving it again and it will walk. I trim the legs about an inch on each side, I have never found they walk any better with one side shorter than the other.

Probably this

Posted

 I am terrible at explaining things. But if it's just bobbing up and down, and moving in a straight line back at you, your not giving it enough slack to walk, use your rod tip to get to move to one side, then throw it slack before it moving it again and it will walk. I trim the legs about an inch on each side, I have never found they walk any better with one side shorter than the other.

This, and you may be attempting to move it too much. A very short twitch is all it takes to move the head of a frog to the side. Anything longer will result in it moving toward you. 

  • Global Moderator
Posted

Slack, slack and slack...

 Lower your rod just above the gunnell. Give it a short sideways pull and watch what happens,

it will turn, pull it again the other way it'll turn that way.

Now, don't reel any line even tho you think you should as you'll have a bow it the line, pull again and back again

Try to keep that amount of slack throughout the cast as you work it back. 

 

When you get a strike that extra slack will help with the hook set.

 

Anyway not saying it's right, or there aren't any other ways, thats how I was taught and still doing it.

 

Just keep at it, you'll get the cadence down soon enough.

 

Mike

Posted

I really expected to see some humor in a few responses.  Come on guys.  How about; "On a very tiny leash, or I can't get mine to crawl let alone walk."

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I would not be concerned if you can't walk the frog.  When you put a real live frog in the water and watch it swim does it swim side to side? Think about it.

Posted

I would not be concerned if you can't walk the frog.  When you put a real live frog in the water and watch it swim does it swim side to side? Think about it.

 

isn't the point to imitate an injured frog?

  • Global Moderator
Posted

It is, but I think Lou's point is don't let a lack of confidence preclude you from just working it straight back,

with pause's mixed in while varying the speed.

 

If I miss read your post I appologise.

 

Mike

  • Super User
Posted

It is, but I think Lou's point is don't let a lack of confidence preclude you from just working it straight back,

with pause's mixed in while varying the speed.

 

If I miss read your post I appologise.

 

Mike

 

That is exactly my point Mike L. Thank you for re-phrasing it.

  • Super User
Posted

I always tell mine I will whup their froggy little butts if they don't stop running. Works almost every time.

Posted

To give a bait the freedom to walk from side to side, you have to throw a little slack into the line after every twitch.

 

The shorter a frog's legs, the better it walks. The longer the legs, the more water it displaces, so it "chugs" better.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ive caught more fish just chugging the lure back than walking the frog. I feel like i get more bites when the line slaps the water. Don't know if its just my imagination or if the sound gets the fish excited

Posted

using slack line and the tip of your rod at waist height make some quick downward twitches with the tip. at the pauses are when you can take up some of the line.

Posted

using slack line and the tip of your rod at waist height make some quick downward twitches with the tip. at the pauses are when you can take up some of the line.

Posted

using slack line and the tip of your rod at waist height make some quick downward twitches with the tip. at the pauses are when you can take up some of the line.

Posted

using slack line and the tip of your rod at waist height make some quick downward twitches with the tip. at the pauses are when you can take up some of the line.

Posted

Like others have said, slack is key. If it is chugging forward then you don't have enough slack.

I exponentially increased the amount of bites by learning to walk. With proper technique you can walk a frog without moving it forward more than an inch per rod pop. The padcrasher is a hard frog to learn on imo. The spro frog works best when you trim 3/4" to 1" off of each leg. The rod action can effect the walking too; however, you can walk a frog on any rod.

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