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Posted

I didn't want to hijack another thread but as a new guy who is unfamiliar with both Fluro and Braid, I'm still a little confused about their application. Then on top of it, I see many refer to having a leader when using Braid line. 

 

But then in another thread I notice RoadWarrior said this:

 

 

A leader is never required, but a lot of guys think it improves the presentation for

certain techniques and in clear water. Specifically, I see no reason for leaders on

lines fished with spinnerbaits, deep running crankbaits or topwater. Jigs and soft

plastics? Maybe.

 
 
So is the reason for a leader with braid line solely for "presentation" and has nothing to do with the line itself, the ability to hold a knot, etc? And if that's the case, do I understand correctly that braid is good (or preferred?) using all baits except jigs and soft plastics? If that's the case, what's the reason? 
 
Thanks for your help. 
Posted

If you are into " Virgin " fish ?  They will bite anything that moves in the water

 

If you are in my immediate bay where about 4 old guys in their boats catch every fish over & over ?   :)  Good luck in 8' to 20' of water. Their mouths are always lined with red dots of previous hookings.

 

4 pound green mono with a ocassional 2 # leader & a piece of perch is needed for just a nibbling hook up.

 

So the answer is.........TROLL slowly, with long lines behind your boat. I go with about  + 100' in  20' of water.

 

I Never need a leader with 100' of any braid. I do use a 1/2 hitch or 1/2 of a Granny knot in the end of the line as I pull tight the Triline or improved Trilene knots. That 1/2 hitch jams tightly to prevent braid slippage.

Posted

The only reason to put a leader flouro,mono, whatever is to hide the braid.Braid is at its best IMO using jigs and plastics.It will help transmit the feel of the bottom as well as the strike of a fish. Use an Alberto knot to join the two together and leader length is usually between 3 to 6ft.I always put a mono backing on the reel first so the braid wont spin on your spool. Hope this helps.

  • Super User
Posted

Before fluorocarbon lines were introduced, no one used leaders with braid. The line manufacturers through their marketing department, convinced everyone that fluorocarbon lines were invisible (they are not) and that invisible line was required to catch fish that are not smart enough to avoid artificial baits. They also said that fluorocarbon lines had less stretch than mono (also not true). When you repeat a lie often enough it becomes fact. Even after it has been proven incorrect. http://tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html   Enough fishermen are convinced that the claims made in order to sell FC lines are true so leaders are very commonly used. If you like extra knots in your line and believe bass won't hit a bait that has braid attached to it, use a leader. 

One claim about fluoro that is true is that is more abrasion resistant than braid. Some use leaders for that reason. When you add the fact that fluorocarbon line has poor knot strength, it kind of negates the abrasion resistance benefit.

  • Like 3
Posted

Not to disagree with anyone, but I always use a mono leader on a C-rig and on Drop Shot presentations.  I'll use floro when worm fishing with braid and straight flouro for crankbaits.  Most often their use is as a shock absorber rather than to hide the braid.  Most of my rods have fast or extra fast tips and fishing straight braid can hinder hook ups sometimes. Oh yea, except for buzzers and frogs, I always use mono for top water baits.

  • Super User
Posted

I am not going to even enter into this argument any more..............OK maybe just a little. For years I ran straight braid on all but a few rods. I caught plenty of fish, clear water, pressured fish, didn't matter, I still caught them. I began running leaders as an experiment 2-3 years ago on the rods I ran straight fluorocarbon on, for no other reason than to save $$$$. Now I run straight braid on every thing, and tie leaders on the rods I used use fluorocarbon on 100% of the time. Why? Braid lasts a long, long time, and so does a 200 yard spool of fluorocarbon when your only using 5 or feet at a time. I hated fluorocarbon as a main line, and I hated paying $20 for a spool of it that needed to be changed out every couple weeks. I have lot more things I would rather spend my money on than endless spools of line. It's just that simple. They rods I use braid to fluorocarbon on are #1 my drop-shot rod, I don't like the limpness of braid for "standing the hook out" when drop-shotting, and #2 anything that gets fished in super abrasive conditions, braid + rocks and/or zebra mussels = instant line cutting. Otherwise it's still straight braid.

  • Like 4
Posted

There have been alot of threads on braid and leaders lately and a search could find quite alot of information on the subject. I will however offer an opinion.

I used the same green braid with out a leader for 3 years and had no problem catching fish. What I did have a problem with was tying knots and managing braid. What I mean is breaking off with straight braid can be a pain, cutting and re-tying lures (always have to break out the cutting tool) and handling it in 20+ winds.

Now I tie a 12-15 leader in a color and pound test that I think suits the conditions I will fish that day and I can switch a lure or break off quicker. My .02 on why I use a leader.

  • Like 1
Posted

Interesting,some good points here.Ive always been afraid off straight braid in clear water,I guess its time to try it.

Posted

The only time I use a leader is when I need abrasion resistance when saltwater fishing.

Posted

In my opinion braid/floro/mono all have a time and a place. I use straight braid only in three situations: hollow body frogs(othertopwater slop presentations), punching matts, and big jigs.  I use braid with a floro leader in a few circumstances: dropshot(15-20 ft), deep spinnerbaits(3 ft), and some other reaction type baits especially if the water is kind of muddy. The florocarbon leader for me does help with a more stealth presentation, but mostly it serves as more abrasion resistance especially with big toothy fish in the waters here in the north( i use 30 lb for leader material). I use all florocarbon for C-rigs, medium to light jigs, football jigs, T-rigs, shallow cranks, shallow spinnerbaits, and swim jig/baits). The rest of the presentations I use mono(topwater, medium/deep cranks, jerkbaits etc...). I love the invisibility of floro, I love the abrasion resistance, I dont like the managability and memory of the line, I also dont like the price. But to me I think florocarbon is the best choice for the fishing that I do, but I also know guys who fish with exclusively braid. These guys all catch fish, the only time I notice a big difference is when we are on highly pressured systems with little to no wind and bluebird skies. Fish what you have confidence in, the above is just what i do. 

 

Mitch

Posted

To me, unless you are fishing in extremely clear water or are making a finesse presentation there's no need for a leader on braid. If bass are smashing the heck out of Alabama rigs with their thick metal wires attached to the baits they will bite a bait that is attached to braid.

Also, to me, putting a leader on your braid just creates a weak point in your line. Most guys use 50lb braid with a 15-17lb fluoro leader. What's the point of having 50lb braid if the leader is going to break before the braid will. Also one of the reasons why someone uses braid is for sensitivity and I'm sure adding a leader diminishes some of that sensitivity the braid gives you.

  • Super User
Posted

Allow for a completely different perspective.

 

Braid for mainline is great because of line management (esp. on spinning reels).

 

Braid can be rather pricey. Every time you tie on another lure, another hook, directly to braid, you remove a little bit of your pricey line. Get hung up, you lose more. Soon, you need to respool because your braid is down too low for your liking.

 

However, add a leader and your braid dwindles much more slowly. You get hung up your leader (hopefully) breaks first. You start out with 6 feet or more of leader, and retie lures, hooks, until you need to replace your leader.

 

Those reties don't affect your braided mainline until you replace the leader. The longer the leader, the less you lose your braid.

 

As for weakness in the chain, I don't agree. Well, technically it may be true (or maybe not), but in my own experience, with 10 or 20 lb braid + leader, I never worry about my leader knot. I always test it thoroughly before I put it in the water. I caught my PB on 10lb braid + 10lb leader in thick slop. 7.5lb bass + extra poundage of grass and such. Nary a worry on my part. Everything held just fine.

 

Just a "devil's advocate" approach. FWIW.

  • Like 1
Posted

Allow for a completely different perspective.

 

Braid for mainline is great because of line management (esp. on spinning reels).

 

Braid can be rather pricey. Every time you tie on another lure, another hook, directly to braid, you remove a little bit of your pricey line. Get hung up, you lose more. Soon, you need to respool because your braid is down too low for your liking.

 

However, add a leader and your braid dwindles much more slowly. You get hung up your leader (hopefully) breaks first. You start out with 6 feet or more of leader, and retie lures, hooks, until you need to replace your leader.

 

Those reties don't affect your braided mainline until you replace the leader. The longer the leader, the less you lose your braid.

 

As for weakness in the chain, I don't agree. Well, technically it may be true (or maybe not), but in my own experience, with 10 or 20 lb braid + leader, I never worry about my leader knot. I always test it thoroughly before I put it in the water. I caught my PB on 10lb braid + 10lb leader in thick slop. 7.5lb bass + extra poundage of grass and such. Nary a worry on my part. Everything held just fine.

 

Just a "devil's advocate" approach. FWIW.

 

x2....I have used the same braid for several years in a row and no where near needing to be replaced. 

  • Like 1
Posted

As for weakness in the chain, I don't agree. Well, technically it may be true (or maybe not), but in my own experience, with 10 or 20 lb braid + leader, I never worry about my leader knot. I always test it thoroughly before I put it in the water. I caught my PB on 10lb braid + 10lb leader in thick slop. 7.5lb bass + extra poundage of grass and such. Nary a worry on my part. Everything held just fine.

 

That's completely understandable using the same pound test in braid as you do on your leader.  It's the 50-80lb braid with a 15lb leader that I don't understand. Unless it's for what you said, to save your braid when you get snagged.  But then again, they are using the 50-80lb braid so when they do have to pull a hog out of cover it doesn't break...But the leader might if a lighter pound test is being used.  It's a catch 22 I guess...

  • Super User
Posted

That's completely understandable using the same pound test in braid as you do on your leader.  It's the 50-80lb braid with a 15lb leader that I don't understand. Unless it's for what you said, to save your braid when you get snagged.  But then again, they are using the 50-80lb braid so when they do have to pull a hog out of cover it doesn't break...But the leader might if a lighter pound test is being used.  It's a catch 22 I guess...

 

True. While it does seem to be popular, IMHO, I just don't see 50-80 lb braid as necessary for bass fishing. Saltwater, sure. So yeah, over-or-under-kill putting a 15lb leader on such, depending how you look at it. Catch 22.

Posted

Allow for a completely different perspective.

 

Braid for mainline is great because of line management (esp. on spinning reels).

 

Braid can be rather pricey. Every time you tie on another lure, another hook, directly to braid, you remove a little bit of your pricey line. Get hung up, you lose more. Soon, you need to respool because your braid is down too low for your liking.

 

However, add a leader and your braid dwindles much more slowly. You get hung up your leader (hopefully) breaks first. You start out with 6 feet or more of leader, and retie lures, hooks, until you need to replace your leader.

 

Those reties don't affect your braided mainline until you replace the leader. The longer the leader, the less you lose your braid.

 

As for weakness in the chain, I don't agree. Well, technically it may be true (or maybe not), but in my own experience, with 10 or 20 lb braid + leader, I never worry about my leader knot. I always test it thoroughly before I put it in the water. I caught my PB on 10lb braid + 10lb leader in thick slop. 7.5lb bass + extra poundage of grass and such. Nary a worry on my part. Everything held just fine.

 

Just a "devil's advocate" approach. FWIW.

 

So true!!!

Posted

I think it's worth noting that most pro tournament fishermen use a fluoro or mono leader with braid for worm and jig presentations.  They believe the leader is less observable to the fish and therefore it may get them an extra bite during the course of a day's fishing - which is life or death for a tournament angler.  True or false?  You have to decide for yourself.  If you're satisfied with straight braid, that's fine.  If you fish clear water and/or are prone to believe guys who fish 200+ day per year, you might want to try a leader and judge for yourself whether it helps or hinders.

Posted

I was under the assumption that people used 50+lb braid for bass fishing on baitcasters more for manageability rather than the added strength.

Posted

i run 12 flouro leader on 30 lb power pro. its not that i think i need 30lb line for bass its both of those have a diameter of 8lb mon so they match up well. run uni to uni for my leader knot and have never lost a fish to it.

Posted

I used my old guitar strings as leaders 60 years ago. Fished Dacron lines. Saw no difference back then.

Cyclops2 Say............" No hungry fish around ? "

He very smart fisherman.

:)

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