Super User Goose52 Posted March 24, 2013 Super User Posted March 24, 2013 I recently posted this photo of my rod box in another thread and there seemed to be some interest in this rig. It's raining here now (and might snow later) so I thought I'd take the time to post some details about this rod box. I took photos of the final box upon completion of construction last summer so will post those up as well. When fishing from the bank I drive around and hit multiple lakes, with sometimes different presentations at each lake, so I end carrying a number of different rods. When fishing from the boat (car-topped canoe), I needed a way to carry 5 or so rods to the lake, organized, and leave room in the trunk of the car for the other boat gear. Answer for both needs? A rod box. I made a prototype box out of cardboard and ended up using it for three years. I finally made the "production" box out of wood last summer. Result? Rods are organized, don't slide around, and the two-level feature lets you carry five rods in a narrow width. Get home from fishing and all you have to do to "unpack" is to lift out the entire box and you're done. Some design considerations: Upward inclination of the rods - you have to do some measuring to assure that the rods will clear the folded-down rear seatbacks in the car. "Tapering" of the rods in the box. The rods should have enough lateral separation at the rear for the reels to clear each other, but the rod tips have to be angled inward so they fit between the front seat backs. Left-handed or right-handed reel handles (primarily for spinning reels). If you plan on carrying one or two spinning outfits, you want to offset the rod position in the box to assure that you end up with enough room for the handle. Example: my spinning reels have handles on the left side; I would set the rod position for the first spinning rod close to the right side of the box, leaving enough room for the rotor to clear the inner box wall (this will be clear in a following photo). Height of the rod supports at the rear of the box - you have to take into account the size of the spinning reels that you use to assure that the rod is supported high enough so the reel will clear the bottom of the box. I fish from three different cars so that meant some measuring to assure that the final box design would work in all three. Here's some photos that show the details. The prototype box - made of cardboard; used for three years. A cardboard box is recommended as the first step since you can easily change dimensions and angles (and if you make a mistake, just get another box ). Note the upward inclination of the rods. The final design, made out of wood. Note the divider across the width of the bottom of the box - the area in front of that divider is for the reels. Some measurement needed here to determine placement of that divider based on the size of the reels. The compartment at the right-rear is dimensioned to hold four 3500-size boxes vertically (or an alternate configuration shown in the next photo). On the right-rear inner wall of the box, note the double-ply cardboard - this is an area to hang single-hook baits like spinnerbaits and buzzbaits (if the cardboard wears out, cut the zip-ties and replace the cardboard). Note the grab-handles on each side of the box. The left-rear compartment is dimensioned to hold bags of soft-plastics. The right-rear compartment alternate configuration - one 3500 box, one tray for tossing in used plastics, used baits, etc. Note the "notch"/rod support position on the right side of box; it is offset as far as possible to the right to give clearance for the spinning rod handle on the left side of the reel. Test fit in the Z-Car with three rods - good to go here. The right and center rod positions are set to provide clearance for spinning reels. Note the tips of the outer rods are angled inwards to fit between front seat-backs. Also note here the two (empty) "upper-level" rod positions. Test fit in the Toyota - good to go here as well. Now with two more rods on the top level. The top two rods must be BC rods; the BC reels DO end up resting on the lower rods, but no issues with damage/abrasion to either the reel or rod. Note here the spinnerbaits hanging from the cardboard. Finally, when you get home from fishing, lift the box out of the car to unpack. Note again the upward inclination of the rods. I'm fortunate to have a tackle bench where I can place the rod box. Here, I can check all the rigs for frayed line, trim-back, and re-tie all knots. There you go. A carboard box, a knife, and some measurements will get you a usable box. Have some time on your hands? Make it out of wood. I made my wood box from scraps left over from other projects, even had the screws on-hand so my direct cost was $0.00... Quote
Super User .ghoti. Posted March 24, 2013 Super User Posted March 24, 2013 Clever idea. Very nice. Quote
MrSwimJig Posted March 24, 2013 Posted March 24, 2013 Very nice. Bet this will work well in my SUV as well. Quote
Super User Teal Posted March 24, 2013 Super User Posted March 24, 2013 Very good post!! Very thoughtful. This will probably help alot of guys on this site. Quote
Nodda4me Posted March 24, 2013 Posted March 24, 2013 Now you should make up a top that latches on with a handle on top for easy carrying! Quote
Super User Goose52 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Super User Posted March 24, 2013 Thanks guys - I like to be organized. I wonder how many rods are broken going in and out of cars, SUVs, and trucks, as compared to breaking during actual fishing conditions? AND, of the rods that did break while fishing, how many of those rods REALLY broke due to a nick or compression on the blank caused by going in and out of the vehicle...? Now you should make up a top that latches on with a handle on top for easy carrying! That would work! Might give someone else an idea if they build a rod box. For me, I only need to carry my box 20 feet from the trunk of a car over to the workbench so I think the grab handles on the outside of the box will work for now. Quote
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