Do Ram Mounts Not Come With Mounting Bolts Or Screws?

[Trailer]

I'm a little confused. My RAM mount didn't come up with any bolts to mount to my boat. Is this typical or am I missing something?

[Hanover_Yakker]

Depending upon which package you purchased.  Most mounts from RAM can be purchased either by themselves or in a retail package with the base.  I have purchased both types.  The mounts themselves alone typically run in the $18-30 range but the packs with the bases typically run in the $39-49 range.  What is the part number/model RAM mount you purchased?

[Trailer]

Depending upon which package you purchased.  Most mounts from RAM can be purchased either by themselves or in a retail package with the base.  I have purchased both types.  The mounts themselves alone typically run in the $18-30 range but the packs with the bases typically run in the $39-49 range.  What is the part number/model RAM mount you purchased?

RAM-B-107U

[Hanover_Yakker]

According to RAM's product info page on the 107-U, your package should have come with three items, the Humminbird base with integrated 1" RAM ball, the RAM double socket arm and a 1" RAM ball base.  If you have anything less than those three pieces, then your retail package was missing the requisite pieces per RAM's package description.

 

You can print and take the product description from their page to the retailer and exchange it for the right package.

 

http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045049048055085/Default.aspx

 

Hope that helps!

[Trailer]

I have all those parts. I assumed that they would provide 4 nuts and bolts to mount to a surface. You know what happens when you assume...

[Hanover_Yakker]

I gotcha - the main reason they do not provide any mounting hardware is that the install depth varies from application to application.  I got mine from HD or Lowes and used S/S cap screws (allen heads) with backing washers and nylon locking nuts.  I used cap screws, because I figured not many people would be carrying around an allen head in their pockets to steal the mounts.  A phillips head screw driver is way too common.  I also tipped each bolt and the backside of the washer and the nut where they would contact the hull with LEXEL to ensure a watertight seal.

[Trailer]

I gotcha - the main reason they do not provide any mounting hardware is that the install depth varies from application to application.  I got mine from HD or Lowes and used S/S cap screws (allen heads) with backing washers and nylon locking nuts.  I used cap screws, because I figured not many people would be carrying around an allen head in their pockets to steal the mounts.  A phillips head screw driver is way too common.  I also tipped each bolt and the backside of the washer and the nut where they would contact the hull with LEXEL to ensure a watertight seal.

If you don't mind me asking, what diameter nuts and bolts did you use?

[Hanover_Yakker]

To be honest, it has been awhile since I used those because I use the YakAttack Screwball paired with the YakAttack GearTrac accessory tracks. Let's me slide the mounts on and off and secure them with a simple twist. The best method I used was taking the base in with me and checking the diameters of the bolts firsthand. Sorry i don't remember offhand but I'll look tomorrow and see if I still have the plastic pack with the sizing info for you.

[Fishing Rhino]

They do not come with bolts or screws, at least mine didn't.  Some applications would call for screws, some for bolts.  What fasteners should come with them, bolts or screws, and what lengths? 

 

It's impractical, since they'd have to include a variety of fasteners to cover the various applications.  Then you'd end up paying for fasteners you did not need.

[Hanover_Yakker]

If i remember correctly, I used a 1/8" drill bit for the pilot hole and  a #10 cap screw in various lengths, started threading the initial bolt into the hole through the mount, then drilled a second pilot hole opposite of that one and started threading another bolt.  Once you have 2 bolts started, you can drill the third one, but make sure you hand tighten the cap screws and nuts to avoid over tightening them.  Like I said earlier though, its easier to just carry the base with you into the store and test fit the bolts or cap screws first.

 

***NOTE - keep in mind that you need to plan for not only the mounting depth of the base, but also any hull or moutning material you are mounting to.  Especially if you are using the tip I mention below - an additional 1/4" will be needed in the length of the cap screws.  I think I ended up using 1 1/2" cap screws on the ones with the pad eye backing approach.***

 

Here's a tip for anyone looking to install any type of mounts on their kayak or canoe and using the RAM bases.  Purchase a handful of the nylon or stainless steel pad eyes.  When you go to install the bolts (or rivets), use the pad eye as a backing washer on the iside of the hull.  Once completed, you know have an attach point for any form of lashing or caribiner.  Perfect for those small Placno dry boxes that people use to keep phones, keys and such in.  The reason I mentioned the RAM bases is because the holes on the RAM bases actually line up on one side so that you can use both moutning holes on the pad eye.

 

If you use some other base like a Humminbird or Garmin, you can still use the pad eye approach, but you may only get one hole lined up on the pad eye.  No worries, once it's cinched down, it will hold and can still be used.  This is a great technique for boats as well where you have access to the back of a panel, because you can use the pad eye or a zip tie with the bolt eye on it to attach wiring to to keep it from laying around and getting chafed or cut by movement.

[Trailer]

They do not come with bolts or screws, at least mine didn't.  Some applications would call for screws, some for bolts.  What fasteners should come with them, bolts or screws, and what lengths? 

 

It's impractical, since they'd have to include a variety of fasteners to cover the various applications.  Then you'd end up paying for fasteners you did not need.

Makes sense. I emailed them to ask them what bolts they would recommend. I'll make a trip to Home Depot and find something. As far as mounting I shouldn't have any problems. There is a plastic console on my aluminum boat and plenty of empty space below it, so I won't hit anything. Just need to get me some fasteners.

[Dwight Hottle]

If you haven't considered a backing plate you might want to use a piece of wood under the plastic console to help stiffen it up.

[Hanover_Yakker]

Like Dwight said, a backing plate of some form is highly recommended.  An easy solution that several of my kayaking friends use is the cheap cutting boards from Wallie world and cut out a circle.  Almost bulletproof then.

[HookSetDon]

I was a little disturbed by the same thing, spend 120 bucks on a mount and you still have to go out to the hardware store and spend 5 bucks on stainless steel carriage bolts and nylon lock nuts.

 

I ended up using 4 1/4x 4" stainless steel carriage bolts and 4 nylon locking nuts with fender washers.

 

I put a 3/4" piece of plywood about 4 x 4 under the fiberglass area I was mounting through and I had a piece of neoprene from a back draft damper at work. I traced out the bottom of the mount and cut the circle out. used about 3 pieces so I had a nice 1/4 neoprene washer to help seal it,and absorb some shock from the bouncing.

 

As Rhino suggested to me a few months ago when I inquired about the installation, I also sealed the mount with some clear silicone.