Wayne P.

Yellow with red highlights that I add--Daiwa Samuari-- finesse Mulit-color with a bunch of different colors--Daiwa Saltiga---finesse Green Spiderwire Stealth--horizontal presentations, big jigs, A-rig, and heavy duty topwater (frogs, etc) Green Stren Sonic -- lipless cranks, and small topwater

A rough as they treat their boats. They should be using the E series for the bow. The D series will move in rough water even on the console with the large display models, That is why there is a Shock Guard accessory.

"Do not use any insect repellent that has deet while fishing." Why not?????

The unit is too heavy to have that much leverage and the available ball sizes definately can't handle the weight. You would need a minumum RAM-D series to have a very long extension and probably the E series would be required for a bow location.

The dimensions of the trays are here. Get the one that your foot pedal fits in. There are Minnkota and Motor Guide models listed. The Minnkota models are wider. http://www.rodsaver.com/04_trolling/ffmk.html

What is your definition of "flat foot"?

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I make a finesse umbrella rig and have caught more bass than crappie with it.

Example of shallow water coverage, Note the water depth and the range setting at the top on both sides. The dark band on the right side is a creek channel I was searching with my bow unit and trolling motor mounted transducer. I found bass and caught bass at this location.

No, Humminbird does not store history older than what is displayed. You can mark a waypoint for any subject on the screen though. You just pause the screen scrolling, move the curser to the subject and push the Mark button to save that waypoint.

I like that technology and use it 100% of the time on the water and add a 2D or DI view for some occasions. I have three of those Humminbird units. It's the best technology you can have for shallow water due to the coverage. With the Humminbird Side Imaging, as long as the transducer is not buried in the lake bottom, you will see the bottom and all above it to the water's surface. I use it at both ends of the boat. It will change the way you fish.

If anyone is interested in the invention that Robbie Patterson has to greatly lessen the effort to stow and deploy a bow Motor Guide, he will be there with some of those to sell and he will install it for you if you bring in your mount. I got that kit for my motor and it is a must have for us old folks. It is not an advertized product. He is Propeller Dynamics at Sanderson's in Chester.

The dual cable systems take less effort to steer. Typically the push/pull models are the less powerful ones.

The rack and pinion is the single cable push/pull. You probably ment pull/pull that has two cables between the pedal and motor head. The dual cable is the most flexible, trouble free, and less likely to break since the cable inside the sheath is multi-strand instead of solid metal rod. The Motor Guide Tour series has a metal foot pedal. I have a couple of them.

Gamakatsu Octopus hook, you can set the hook with those I use a 2/0 #02412 for finesse worms and a 3/0 #02123 for Trick worms For Senkos I use a 4/0 #02414. If fish for bass, not bluegill. This is the 2/0 with a finesse worm:

For paper maps, sporting goods places in the area you live or fish. If you just want to look at digital maps on-line go to the Navionics web site. The home page has a searchable map that is the same as their Navionics PC software. You can also get that map software for you smart phone or tablet.

No, my meaning is that I don't disregard any presentation and don't have a "favorite", the fish choose the one that is the best. I don't enjoy casting without catching. Most of the time I have 10-12 rods rigged on the deck with different presentations and the wacky rigged finesse worm is the most productive for a days fishing. I have probably 20 rod/reels in my boat all the time so I am prepared for all presentations. I've been catching them lately with a Silver Buddy and a shaky head finesse worm, that is because it matches the pattern. I don't fish lures, I fish patterns. The fish's response lets me know if it is the correct one. A jig may be the right one sometimes.

I don't have a favorite, the bass do though. A finesse worm rigged wacky or weedless wacky.

Any two units operating on the same frequency at the same time will cross-talk if the sonar pulses overlap. They can be the same brand or different brands. The Side Imaging and Structure Scan technology will cross-talk at long distances since their sonar pulses are transmitted horizontally. I have seen cross-talk from other boats that were 100' or more from me. I use Humminbird Side Imaging equipment.

I use this one. It only takes a few seconds to get the correct temp. http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Digital-Instant-Read-Pocket-Thermometer/dp/B00004XSC3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1355485939&sr=8-3&keywords=taylor+digital+thermometer I have the analog version also.

If it is like the Daiwa Samurai, then it has a smaller diameter than the other brands in the same strength ratings. The smaller the diameter those lines have, the less shock strength they have. BUT the strength rating is more in line with the true strength and is preferred by those wanting to qualify for line class record catches. A lot of the other superlines have a breaking strength that is a lot more than the label rating.

The weight of a Zoom Trick plastic worm is about .22 ounce Not all the colors weigh the same but close enough for your use.

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The motor doesn't get any abuse at all with a properly designed guard. It's the guard that makes contact with the bottom. Just do a web search for "outboard motor prop guard", there are dozens of models.