Wayne P.

I used the Attwood on one of my boats that had the OMC GT. I got it for quick planning in shallow water.

The "floating worm" topic was discussed a couple of years ago. I did this test with 10 trick size worms. The Zoom colors do not have Super Salt on the package and a couple of the worms state "Floating Worm" on the package. As you can see none of them float.

Some soft plastics float, most do not. When you think the tail is up due to floatation with a Tx rig or shaky head, it just has a slower fall rate than the sinker/jig head. The only Trick type worm in recent history that really floats is the Renegade or if you can find the ElaZtech type material XXX red label in that size. Do your own testing, just put the worms in water-no weight, make them sink so surface tension is not involved and see which ones float back to the surface.

Yes

One more shad school image. The ole form-a-big-ball-to-trick-predators deal didn't work for this bass. It's right in the middle of them.

No, I didn't, although I tried for about 1/2 hour. That was about a month before the Alabama rig craze started. I may have had a better chance if I had known about that. That bass looks to be about 30" long It was at Briery Creek.

This image shows several bass after this school of shad around a tree, They have split the shad school.

Balls of shad: There were no predators near this ball of shad: There was a very large bass attacking this ball of shad:

Marker bouys are old school. If you have a sonar/GPS combo, just create a waypoint for reference. I don't like using markers in 65' of water, LOL With my units, I can have a casting rig around the waypoint for positioning to use a crankbait. OR I can just look at them from a distance with Side Imaging. I have the casting ring set to 30'.

This is an example of using the thernocline to find catchable bass. You look for them where the thermocline intersects the lake bottom like under the temperature number. Those suspended over the deeper water and above the thermocline are harder to catch unless there are baitfish schools nearby like the ones farther to the right. Both senarios produced catches.

LOL, no for 2012 about twice as many in about 1/3 the days

Good records. I just keep a number for bass caught.

You will have no problem pulling that lightweight boat with a V-6 to "G" going I-81, I-40, I-75, I-24, and Rt. 72, Rt. 79, Rt 431. I go that route a couple times a year from central Va.

1. Not all the time, mostly during the summer and fall. They may or may not be. 2. No 3. I would only fish when I saw the bass 4. Yes, I fish for individual bass or groups of bass 5. Both. Bass are not on the bottom all the time especially in mid summer when there is a thermocline

I've got the TFO Tactical Series 7'11" swimbait baitcaster rated for up to 6 oz. for umbrella rigs. Pleasently light for such a heavy action rod.

With those heavy units, you can keep the arm exactly vertical or horizontal with a Shock Guard. Just think about how much pounding your bow gets in boat wakes and waves of that size or larger. In the RAM D, size the U-C would be the best application since the arm is shorter so the unit would have less leverage to move. You don't want your unit slamming on the deck if it slips. Another bow alternative: If you have a trolling motor foot pedal tray, there is a bracket that spans the opening and doesn't involve a ball mount. Just attach the unit bracket to it--very solid. http://www.kentuckylake.tv/fishing/kentucky-lake-fishing-tip-2012-11-02.htm

I know those lakes very well, BUT even with traditional sonar, I would have to see some returns there to make me stop and make one cast. I checked that same area a week later and there were no fish there, not even a shad. I see them sometimes on straight stretchs of the creek, but they hold on turns for a longer period of time. The fish were moving to the deeper areas due to the water temp dropping. I don't waste my fishing day trying to catch fish that are not there. That is why I have sonar equipment, I don't need casting practice, I want to know were they are so at least I have a chance of a catch. Just the type of sonar used for those images, eliminates the fishless water faster. The same goes for humps, points, depressions, bottom hardness changes, sharp dropoffs, etc. In late summer, it's the thermocline that determines where they are. If those locations are deeper than the thermocline I don't even check there. The depth of the thermocline is the first thing I check during the summer. That eliminates all the water deeper than that and shallower also most of the day. This image shows a creek channel in timber that is below the thermocline. I wouldn't waste time looking or fishing anywhere near the area no matter how many turns are close by:

The FW75 is 5 speed, the TR75 is variable speed. The price difference is plastic vs metal and longer run time with the variable speed.

This is a creek channel in timber, when bass are in this area, they relate to the direction changes of the creek. This is a neaby lake and a school of bass in the creek where it makes a sharp turn, no trees in this area. I fish both lakes the same way, timber is not part of the equasion, it's the bottom features that the fish relate to.

You won't be powering your electronics with the generator. You will be powering your units with a 12V battery. It doesn't make any difference what sine wave the generator has to charge the battery--there are no electronic circuits in a battery.

You don't want that for deep cycle battery changing and it doesn't indicate it has 120V A/C to hook a charger to it.

Another thing with the Humminbird/iPilot link coming up of you have Lakemaster coverage where you fish, you can have the motor follow a contour line on your graph mapping with the new Lakemaster version. That would be a good feature for trash fishing like crappie or walleyes.

You will want the RAM-D-111U instead of the RAM-D-111U-C. It has a longer arm. I don't get on rough water, so I use the smaller C size at the console and bow. My console location is on metal, not the plastic console.

I think you are going to like the HDS-10 better, not because it has a lower resolution display, but the images displayed will be larger and easier to see. I would put the 10 on the bow since it will be farther away from you when using it. Additionally, you won't need a faster processer when operating the trolling motor so it makes no difference that the chart can't keep up with boat speed. I would say you made a wise purchase.

Yes, that is a good price for the old technology. Those are two steps behind what Lowance has now with the Touch models. For about $500 more you can add the imaging technology.