Wayne P.

If your plug/receptacle is the twist lock type, you have to turn it counter clockwise some to unplug it. When you plug it in, you do the reverse.

A Humminbird DI unit CAN be used as a shoot-thru installation in suitable hulls (thin fiberglass). One of their DI transducers is shipped with epoxy for that installation. Additionally a Humminbird DI unit has regular 2D sonar and Down Imaging and was/is available in about 18 models. The less expensive regular sonar units work fine too for depth, seeing bottom shape, and showing what is in the water column IF you take the time to learn how to use it.

The 15" statement is for INBOARD boat installs. I am not aware of any inboard Trackers with a propeller drive.Tracker was installing transom transducers on their stepped hull models in the wrong place up until the 2012 year models. If you want depth readings when on plane, the transducer has to be slightly below the hull bottom, not on the transom above the hull bottom. If you want a picture of the proper location for best performance, I can send you one. Just need to know what Humminbird unit you have and what performance you expect from it. Send me a PM with your thoughts.

No it would not be too close. You want equal distance between two of the hull ridges and the pick up tube looks like the right position even though I can't see any to the left of it.

OK, you have three things that reflect sonar pulses on the left side of the transducer.<br />The speedometer pick-up tube, the right side of the jackplate and the inside of the left side of the jackplate.<br />All three of those have vertical surfaces.<br />The SI pulses cover from the water's surface to past vertical under the tranducer on both sides.<br /><br />Your GPS function gives you speed so the speedometer tube is not needed.<br /><br />Next is the position of the transducer on the transom.<br />It should be positioned in the center of two of the hull ridges since the ends of those are create air bubbles when on plane, additionaly the weld bead at the transom/bottom juction is a air bubble maker too.<br />You have the second worse hull construction type (sloppy welds) to get good performance with a transom mounted transducer for on plane depth readings. The ones with numerous rivets are worse.<br /><br />The position of your speedometer pick up tube would be a better location. That will have it closer to the jackplate so the left side SI pulse can "see" past it better.<br /><br />As far as the unit shutting down, there are several things that cause that and can be one or all of the following:<br />Your battery is too small to provide power to other stuff when you start the outboard.<br />Your battery is not fully charged and or failing.<br />Your battery connections are not clean and tight.<br />Your wiring has too much resistance to provide the voltage under load the unit needs.<br /><br />Number one item to start with is the unit power cord should be connected directly to the battery. If it is too short, add at least 16 guage wire to it and solder the splices and waterproof them. Use a spade type fuse with waterproof holder at the battery. That is the Humminbird installation suggestion and eliminates any defective/weak wiring your boat has that would be part of the power connection.

There is no difference in the map data.<br /><br />I just got one of the Platinum versions so I could do the Sonar Charts program to have quick HD mapping at non-HD waters. I have no use for the extra features it has.<br /><br />I have 4 other versions that are the Premium edition.<br /><br />

Imaging is a function that takes movement to produce the picture-like images. That is the "Scan" part of the unit name.<br />If you like to just ride around looking at stuff, they are great. As far as a fishing tool, not so much.<br /><br />It would make a good companion for your Eagle though.

If you have a 700, 500 or 300 series unit, you cannot use it.<br /><br />The maps are the same as the Premium edition, you just get extra gimmmic features like satellite image overlay and 3D rendering.<br /><br />The only plus, IMHO, is the upcoming Sonar Charts feature for the Platinum software.<br />Refer to the Navionics web site.

9 +" in my yard now. Still snowing.

I use the Seirus Hyperlite gloves for cold weather fishing, they are water resistant and thin enough for good feel. The issue I have is not so much the temp, but the water spray off the reel when casting. Those gloves take care of that and they are breatheable so your hands don't sweat.

I think some companies just call a Circle hook a Circle hook. Each mfg has their own terminology and copies of other's hooks.

I disagree. With my testing under actual fishing conditions, the Gammy Finesse Wide Gap hook is similar to a Circle hook in performance. The hook eye and hook point are too close together. Only after you get to the 4/0 size is it somewhat useful. I have fished with some that were using that look and after they missed a few hook sets, I gave them an Octopus hook and they had no misses after that.

Gamakatsu has an Octopus hook and an Octopus Circle hook, they are shaped like the ones in the picture and are available in a wide range of sizes with the wire diameter being larger as the hook size increases. Owner's Mosquito look is a smaller wire version of the Gammy's Octopus hook and is only available in sizes up to 2/0. Their version of the Octopus hook is called the SSW I use the Mosquito and Octopus hooks for wacky rigging. I use the Gammy Drop Shot/spit shot hook for drop shotting since the shank is slightly longer. Owner's version of that is the SSW Super needle point. IMHO, I wouldn't have a circle hook, I don't live bait fish.

Hold on!!!! For a transom mounted sonar transducer, it makes no difference which way the prop turns on an outboard or outdrive. The water has already passed over the transducer before it is affected by the prop. What you are referring to only applies to an inboard type boat that the prop is forward of the transom. Your only concern is the transducer affecting the prop if it is within the diameter of the prop so it doesn't aerate the water to the prop and cause cavitation.

Both 597 models have the same display as all three 798 models-it's the highest resolution in the industry.

The 500 series units cannot be linked to another unit in any manner. You need at least the 700 series to share data. A comparable current model would be the 788ci HD or 788ci HD DI. Depending on which one of the three 798 units you have, would determine what communication connection you can use.

Go to the RAM mount web site, then Marine Electronics, select the brand and model series. It will show what mount to use.

Well, my suggestion is to do the BEST for the application. You can "get by" doing less if you choose. There are two ways to do it, you can just mount your equipment or you can install it. An installation takes into consideration what the application is and the best way to do it. Some choose to use a transom transducer as a shoot-thru also, but a shoot-thru transducer is the BEST installation considering what the applicaiton is.

If you want to use a transducer on the trolling motor, use one designed for that purpose. It is never wise to "adapt" a transom transducer for trolling motor use if a TM model is available. It is just a breakage waiting to happen. You can exchange the transom style that comes with the unit by contacting Hummibird Customer Service. No cost, except for returning the one you have. Do the install correctly, don't settle for second best.

I agree, and I don't do Twitter either. I created a Facebook account to enter some giveaways by some mfg and don't intend to ever participate in all that crap. My wife uses it, so I see what all that deal is about.

Paul is "good people". He helps on several web sites.

I've used both on my aluminum hull. I forget which is which but one of them is about permament so don't use it on something you may want to remove. I used them on screws. The permanent type was used when attaching this transom extension:

Install your 997c SI at the console and then get an extra SI transducer, power cord, and AS SYSLINK for the trolling motor so you can use it a both places. Use the RAM mount system so you can easily switch display positions to have it where you are. Once you learn how to use Side Imaging, you will want that information as you fish.

You must not have been paying attention to what he was saying. Just the opposite occurs. Not having it, with the weight of the motor, some get off balance when deploying the motor. The Equalizer removes that chance since the motor is about weightless as you let it down. It you deploy it too slowly, you will have to push it down to latch it.

I've had that setup since last fall. The product name is recent though. This is an example of the install. It is for Motor Guide bow trolling motors only.