jimmyjoe

I used to use the Countdown a lot, including around rocks. They broke so often, I joked that I kept Rapala in business! But these particular Rapalas seem to be very durable. Other models .... nah, not at all. And these CRR-5s attract bass like fresh doughnuts attract cops. jj

Yup, but different color. Those look good. What I liked about those particular Rapalas was their durability around rocks. How are the 6th Sense around rocks and riprap? And how often do you need to re-tune them? jj

I'm down to my last Rapala CRR-5 squarebill. This isn't the deep diver, this is the 4-5' model. These have been the best rattling shallow crank around rocks that I've ever had, and Rapala discontinued them. I can still get a few off fleabay, but the price is exorbitant, considering I only need "chrome". What's your ideas on a good 4-5' rattlin' squarebill for use in and around rocks? BTW .... local water is definitely NOT clear. Thnx. jj

I have 2 Avid rods and an Avid-x. I only handled a Zodias a couple years ago, and the Avids are marginally better. The thing I like about the Avids is this: they will HANDLE THE FISH. Period. They are strong, robust rods. I fish where there are wipers. Those are hybrid bass, striper x white bass. They're one of the few fish that attack head-on, and they go like a runaway freight train. I might break my line, but the rods take it in stride. I've seen no rods the same weight and the same sensitivity that have the fight of the Avids. So when I fish a 10" Anaconda or Hang Ten where there are trees, the Avid does the job just fine. Great sensitivity, and great strength. And the St. Croix warranty is second to none. jj edit: It makes a huge difference which line you use, too. That's pretty much determined by your depth.

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If someone else wrote what I just wrote, and I read it, I would think the same thing. But I've had reels for almost 40 years that I've oiled, and never .... and I repeat .... never ..... has anything like this happened. If the problem is user error, I'd seriously like to know what I did, so I wouldn't do it again. This hurts. $$$$$ Possibly. But the only expectations that I have is that the reels continue to operate like they did when they were new, or reasonably close to it. No bumps, no grinds, no whirrrrrrs, and no clickclick ... clickclick ....clickclick. As for my maintenance practices, the only thing I've changed is to use TSI321 instead of the manufacturer's oil. That might have something to do with the bearings, but not the gear train. Or am I wrong?

I have a Curado 70 three weeks out of warranty that "whirrs" on the retrieve, and a Curado 200i that's 18 months old that's noisy on the cast. I'm done with Shimano. No more. Last year I sent 2 Stradic reels in for factory maintenance and they sent me back someone else's reel. I have a 3 year old Lew's Tournament that clicks; I sent it in to the factory TWICE and they can't stop it. And I have a 2-month old Daiwa Fuego CT100hs that picked up a "grind" on the retrieve. I kept all these reels lubed. Doesn't ANYONE make a decent reel? Doesn't ANYONE make a reel that doesn't crap out a few weeks after the end of the warranty? Doesn't ANYONE make a reliable reel? I know, I know. I'm "venting". But I also have over $600 in 4 reels that are junk. That's a lot of coin for this tired old fart. Does anyone know of a good, reliable reel? Thnx. jj

I use a Nasci 1000 with 10 lb. 832. I'm impressed. My rod is 7', though. jj

Around here, I fish for crappie only in lakes. I hit the points and then the ledges, throwing 1/6 to 1/4 oz. spoons first. The reason I throw spoons is that you can control the depth, gradually going deeper and deeper until you hit the school. I also throw #2 Mepps Aglias, 1/6 oz. Super Roostertails and use slip bobber setups if there's a perfect breeze. The problem is, obviously, finding the school. If you can't, it's tremendously frustrating. If you can, it's tremendously satisfying. And like all things fishing, it helps to be a little bit crazy. ? jj

Man, that's an ugly looking bass! ????? jj

I have the 7'1" Plastics rod. I use it as an all-around rod, for which it's great. It's not the best plastics rod unless you really load it down, like a deeper T-rig or Carolina rig. I didn't buy the 6'8" M/XF, but I should have. One of my friends did, and it seems to be perfect for soft lighter soft plastics as well as poppers and WTD. It's not good for buzzbaits and chuggers, though: too fast. Of course, he's a hair-trigger fisherman, too. That might make a lot of difference. jj

More super, more secret: https://outdooraddictions.wordpress.com/2015/01/01/the-trailing-hook-method/ This seems to be the answer for short-striking bass. I don't use it where there are pike, though. jj

Thnx! jj

Absolutely true. But I tolerate the characteristics of my rod in order to gain better control and a better hookset at distance.

3/8 Kastmaster up high, and 3/8 Fighting Fish down low. Also use 1/3 Cop-e-cat, kinda in-between. Shimano Stradic 2500 Understood. I have lots of irons in the fire, and don't want to buy another rod anytime soon. ? (Did I really just say that?????) jj

Thanks, both of you. I'll tell Santa what to get me. ??? jj

Hulkster mentioned Siege, and you mentioned Elite. Looks like they're the same diameter. Do you know what material difference there is between the two, if there's any? jj

I've seen that locally, someplace or other. How's the knot strength on it? How stretchy is it? Thnx. jj

This is kinda getting off-topic. My original question was about a mono line. That's still my question. Which mono line for the rod stated would you use for long distance with a 3/8 oz. spoon? jj

" ... The only mono that will cast like you want is probably 4 or 6 pound test, and they are too fragile for me. " What about 6 lb. test Gamma copoly? Yes .... no? Maybe? I don't like to use braid with spoons. I twitch them constantly, and the next thing you know, I have a birdnest that would make a baitcaster shudder. And yes, I use ballbearing swivels. Mono is much more tolerant, and easier to straighten out. You might say it gives me more advance notice. ? jj

Good evening. I have a ML/F 7' Avid-X spinning rod (high frame guides). Some mono lines don't like spinning reels, and some don't like high frame, small ring guides. I need a mono line to throw 3/8 oz. spoons as far as possible. Locally, the choices are very limited. Anyone have advice on a particular line for me to get and use? Thnx. jj

Ouch. I was afraid I'd hear that. That's why I said "kinda seems".

I have a Daiwa Fuego CT100 that I can't get to like braid. (Yet, at least.) But with Big Game, it's flawless. I also have a Curado 200i that is OK with mono, until I cast a spinnerbait into the wind. Then I have trouble. But with braid (I use 50 lb. Sufix Performance braid) it's flawless. So I wondered whether the different systems had slight favoritism with different lines, or whether I just hadn't found the right braid for the Daiwa and right mono for the Shimano. Trying out all the different lines out there can be tedious ...... and expensive! So I thought I'd ask your opinion. jj

Wow. No one mentioned whether they used mono, braid or both. Very interesting. jj

I've only used 2 magnetic reels, and haven't even scratched the surface of all the braids. But it kinda seems to me that magnetic reels handle mono line more consistently, and centrifugal reels handle braid more consistently. By "more consistently" I mean that they adjust to varying conditions quicker, more easily and more predictably. Less backlash, too. Am I maybe right or maybe wrong? jj